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Falling for Erawan

With electric buggies to ferry you round the woods and waterfalls, getting back to nature is easy at Erawan National Park

Phoowadon Duangmee
The Nation

Everything goes down at a National Park, except for the entrance fees. More often than not, visitors are left stranded at the visitor centre without a ranger in sight – let alone a map to reach for. Bad goes to worse for the poor soul who has to brave the toilets. The pungent smell, and then the sight that greets you, are obvious signs that a hiker has passed this way, marking his territory with more than just a footprint.

Tales of misadventure in Thailand’s national parks have been an endless source of entertainment for visitors huddled around the campfire over the years. For anyone who has just returned from Erawan National Park however, the story might be different.

A 550-square-kilometre area of wooded mountains and valleys in Kanchanaburi province, Erawan National Park is only a three-hour drive away from Bangkok.

“We have been very successful in tackling the pollution problem,” says Surachai Ajalaboon, the chief ranger. “Cars, for example, are prohibited from rumbling through the park – drivers have to leave them at the carparks provided. This policy has been extremely successful in reducing noise and air pollution.”

Named after the triple-headed elephant Erawan, the mount of Indra in Hindu mythology, the area represents a kind of living museum, preserving the flora and fauna of a tropical rainforest. The centrepiece, however, is the Erawan Waterfall where seven cascades sweep down with a rush of white water over the course of two kilometres. No matter how many times you’ve been before, it’s always hard to resist stripping down to your shorts and plunging in.

“Erawan Waterfall is one of the best natural spots to swim,” says Surachai. “The crystal-clear water gushes in to hundreds of pools and there are no jagged rocks to worry about thanks to the limestone geology.”

The park gets more than 100,000 visitors each year, taking a dip or just enjoying the laid-back hike over the waterfall trail.

The park is “zoned”, with separate areas set aside for car parks, restaurants, accommodation and conservation, in order to manage the flow of visitors.

“Food is banned from the second cascade onwards to avoid the litter problem,” adds Surachai. “As other vehicles are prohibited, we provide electrically-powered golf carts for travel through the park.

Apparently, the cart preserves the environment as much as the tempers of visitors who don’t fancy walking the eight kilometres from the visitor centre to the waterfall.
Weekenders can pitch their tents at the campsite, where clean, modern toilets are just a stone’s throw away.

Alternatively, they can rest their weary heads at the riverside lodge, where accommodation starts at Bt800 per night. The lodge is well equipped, with standard single beds, a refrigerator (a real fridge – not a mini-bar) and a microwave oven, making it ideal for a family outing over the weekend.

“Visitors can make reservations for the lodge on the Internet before paying through an ATM machine,” says Surachai.

Whether it’s a relaxing hike over the five natural trails that wind around rainforest and waterfall or something more adventurous like mountain biking, kayaking or simply swimming, there are plenty of things to fill a weekend.

HOW TO GET THERE

At only 129 kilometres from Bangkok, Kanchanaburi is well served by Highway 4. From Bangkok, keep going westwards by first crossing either Phra Pinklao Bridge or Rama VIII Bridge and then following Borommaratchachonnani Road, or Road 338, which ultimately connects with Highway 4 (Phetchakasem Road) in Nakhon Chaisi. Turn right into Road 323 that runs via Ban Pong to the heart of Kanchanaburi’s Muang district. For the drive to the Erawan National Park, take Road 3199 and Road 323 for Sangkhla Buri district and the Three Pagodas Pass on the Thai-Burmese border.

WHERE TO STAY

Khao Laem National Park
Thong Pha Phum District
Tel: (034) 532 099
www.dnp.go.th
Price range: Bt900-Bt1,800

Great Lake Resort
Si Sawat District
Tel: (081) 845 8686, (081) 856 8539
www.GreatLakeResort.com
Price range: Bt1,300-Bt12,000

Kao Nam Na Resort
Sai Yok District
Tel: (034) 654 072, (086) 163 1139
www.KaoNamNaResort.com

Kring Kravia Resort
Sangkhla Buri District
Tel: (081) 816 2429, (034) 52 1553
Price range: Bt600-Bt3500

Soom Kasalong
Thong Pha Phum
Tel: (081) 294 9520, (089) 803 0450
Price range: Bt1800-Bt2,400

Baan Had Rim Khwae
Sai Yok
Tel: (089) 048 4970, (089) 057 6832
www.RiverKwai2.tripod.com
Price range: Bt1,000-Bt1,800

Ek Pailin River Khwae
Erawan-Lad Ya Road, Muang district
Tel: (034) 587 555, (02) 385 8858-9
www.AekPailinRiverKwai.com
Price range: Bt1,800-Bt10,000

Phorn Pailin Riverside
Sangkhla Buri
Tel: (034) 595 275, (034) 595 322
www.PPailin.com
Price range: Bt1,000-Bt3,000

WHERE TO EAT

The Resort Restaurant and Bar
Mae Nam Khawae Road, Muang district
Tel: (081) 847 9227

Nitaya River Khawe Terrace
Song Khwae Road, Muang
Tel: (081) 447 8767,(034)515 896

Santi
Behind Nam Tok Railway Station, Sai Yok
Tel: (034) 634 275, (081) 942 5419

Khiree Dhara
Mae Nam Khwae Road, Muang
Tel: (034) 624 093, (081) 847 9227

Sabai Jit
Sang Xuto Road, Muang
Tel: (034) 511 931

River Khwae
Mae Nam Khwae Road, Muang
Tel: (034) 512 540-1, (034) 624 221–2

Phae Arharn Rim Khwae
Rim Nam Na Muang Road, Muang
Tel: (034) 511 897

Ban Pa Rim Than
Lad Ya-Si Sawat Road (km 29)
Tel: (081) 213 3726, (081) 763 1601

Khrua Siang Phai
Sang Xuto Road, Muang
Tel: (034) 513 197

Of orchids and guns

Tom Vater
The Nation

The village of Ban Phra Chedi Sam Ong – which is attached to the Burmese frontier by a five-lane road – has a school, electricity and a sprawling market selling teak furniture, jade, orchids, cheroots and lots more from the other side of the border.

The market is clustered around three small pagodas, which give the border pass its name. Literally and metaphorically, this is the end of the road.

A convivial Thai customs officer tells me there’s a market on the other side, but beyond that nothing – no road, no way to proceed. A sign at the gateway reads, “Welcome all visitors, no video cameras!”

A few trucks and motorbikes cross back and forth. Burmese with painted faces, dressed in sarongs, scuttle about, looking dejected and harassed. Thai soldiers linger in the shade, their gleaming guns casually strapped across their shoulders.

The immigration officer launches into a favourite story.
“A few months ago the KNU [soldiers of the anti-Rangoon Karen National Union] came out of the hills and tried to kidnap the staff here.” He shrugs coolly and smiles.
“What happened?” I ask.

“They wanted to exchange us for some of their people who got caught in the area recently.”
“Was there any shooting?”
He shakes his head, no.

I’m left wondering what, if anything, really happened. Did the hardened guerrillas just march up here and demand that the Thai customs officials give up their guns and come with them? And why, then, did they just go away empty-handed?
The Burmese let in foreigners for a day at a time and only one kilometre beyond the border. At Burmese immigration, I’m accosted by a gang of motorcycle-taxi boys and arrange a lift to the nearest village, Payathonzu.

Life is different behind the bamboo curtain. The infrastructure is basic, the landscape seems wild, unmanaged, illusive. The hills are covered by disorderly fields, broken by brush and naked eroded earth.

Payathonzu market is a haphazard sprawl along the main road. Tough-looking men wearing the sarongs they call lungis sit in the shade smoking cheroots. Trucks are unloaded and children boil up palm oil and sweets.

“Orchid, orchid, you want beautiful orchid?” chant young girls. The plants they’re touting are more or less the same as on the Thai side.

Notable additions among the vast array of shops selling wooden furniture and knick-knacks, instruments and cheap jewellery are several stalls offering animal skulls – bears, monkeys, wild boar and the dried beaks of the rare giant hornbill. Huge vats filled with goats’ heads stand in the sun – the oil derived from the heads is said to have medicinal properties.

And of course, orchids are available everywhere.
As I sit talking to Win about his blooms, an old man approaches and shakes my hand emphatically. San Thein is from Mawlamyine, a town in Mon State. The dapper 68-year-old is on a pilgrimage.

“I’m getting old and I feel that this is my last journey. At home I mostly stay at our monastery now, Pha Auk Jawya, to assist the monks,” he says in fluent English. “But I wanted to see the chedis here. I will visit several monasteries before returning home.”

San Thein wants to travel to Bangkok and see the Emerald Buddha. “I was a school headmaster,” he continues. “I remember the British here in the ’40s, and then later the Japanese. I think it must have been 1942 when the Japanese turned up in my village and 50 soldiers moved into our house. We had to leave and moved into a shack in our paddy field. Then one day, news came that a hole had been blown into the world. Hiroshima and Nagasaki had been destroyed – the Japanese were stunned. Some threw their weapons into the river, others fled. A few days later the British turned up and disarmed the rest. We moved back into our house.

“The abbot of Pha Auk Jawya wrote a speech for the UN, entitled ‘Eternal World Peace’. This is what we need. We need peace in Burma. But how to achieve it? Many nations are at war. Inside nations, people are at war.”

San Thein laughs disarmingly. “Even married couples are sometimes at war.”
The old man steps back into the sun to make way for a group of Thai orchid buyers. He shakes his head at the market bustle and waves. “I hope to see you in Bangkok. Let’s meet to see the Emerald Buddha.” And he’s gone.

In the shadow of the Three Pagodas

Too quiet to truly be the ‘wild west’, the outposts on the Burma frontier trade in orchids, teak and stories of rebels with guns

Tom Vater
The Nation
SANGKHLA BURI

Win sells orchids. “We go into the jungle and get them by the sack-full. It takes a long time these days, so I sometimes get kids to do it. I pay them between Bt100 and Bt300 a sack depending on what species they get.”

Win sits in a small hut surrounded by a dozen different species of beautiful epiphytes. The fence out front, draped with hundreds more orchids, divides Thailand and Burma.
Different countries, different worlds.

Thai tourists crowd the makeshift shops and buy bags of flowers. The sellers, mostly young Burmese girls with their faces covered in yellow paste, are armed with books of orchid photos and know their rare species from the common ones.
The prices are low. Single flowers cost anywhere from Bt20 to Bt200.

The hustle and bustle of central Thailand yields to a more languid quiet beyond Kanchanaburi. After Nam Tok, the modern terminus of World War II’s “Death Railway”, rolling hills give way to limestone mountains and the Khao Laem Reservoir, dotted with the floating houses of fishermen.

During the dry season, the hillsides are set afire, which makes for hazy views, but at night the burning patches of land are visible from far off, giving the entire province an otherworldly remoteness.

The border town of Sangkhlaburi looks a little like it belongs in the American Wild West, but the surrounding hills and the lake are utterly serene.

A few backpackers mingle each afternoon with the crowds of Burmese, Karen, Mon and Thais.

From a pair of wooden bridges spanning a reservoir local Mon teenagers show off with dives, while below, villagers tend their raft gardens.

Armin, the Austrian owner of the Burmese Inn’s guesthouse bungalows on the reservoir, has been in town for 15 years and remembers the bad old days of cross-border tension.

“There has been no fighting around Sangkhlaburi and the Three Pagodas Pass since 1995. I remember the last time Karen rebels and Burmese troops exchanged mortar fire across the border. Some landed around here, close to the lake.

“Now the Karen appear to be signing some kind of cease-fire deal. What can they do against a standing army of 450,000 soldiers and 30,000 secret police? Burma is incredibly repressive and brutal. The ethnic minorities don’t stand a chance of achieving autonomy by military means.”

Hence the area remains in an economic limbo – peaceful but not quite at peace.
A surfaced road leads through unruly brush and rocky hills to the border, which is closed to foreigners – almost.

Several roadblocks manned by Thai soldiers keep a lid on the smuggling of timber and drugs.

The soldiers look bored but friendly. There is no other traffic. Twice my vehicle almost flattens long black snakes that sun themselves on the hot tarmac.

The living Death Railway

Drawings by Pows and the remains of rails and rusting locomotives in Kanchanaburi and Ranong recall a horrific chapter in World War II

Oliver Hargreave
Special to The Nation

Imagine you are weak, weary and dispirited, but desperate to avoid a severe, life-threatening beating. How long could you hold a heavy rock above your head?
The image of a prisoner of war doing just that as a punishment meted out by Japanese guards for not working hard enough is one of Jack Chalker’s stark drawings of life on the Death Railway in Kanchanaburi during World War II.

This prisoner and other slave labourers would likely be surprised if they could look into the future and learn that, in less than 50 years, much of the railway would become defunct. Some parts have returned to the wild, and some are now a tourist attraction.

Construction of the 415-kilometre line began in June 1942 and ended when the lines from Thanbyuzayat in Burma and Nong Pladuk, via Kanchanaburi, met at Konkuita on October 17, 1943. Konkuita is now under the lake formed by Khao Laem Dam.

Taking a train as far as Nam Tok may seem straightforward enough today, but reopening the line after the war was not. The allies had closed the railway before selling it back to the Thai government for ฃ1.25 million in 1947. That sum bought Japanese locomotives, bridges and what remained of the rail bed.

The line was in such poor condition that less than a third, 130 kilometres, was reopened. The first section, from Nong Pladuk to Kanchanaburi, was not ready until 1949. It wasn’t until 1958 that the third and final section of the line, from Wang Pho (where the famous trestle still carries the line above the banks of the Khwae Noi) to Nam Tok, was reopened.

Thirty-six kilometres west of the terminus at Nam Tok is the Konyu Cutting. This is where Pows worked day and night to make a cut for the line. The haunting image of prisoners working by the light of flames gave Hellfire Pass its name.

A steep path up a hill links the cutting with the Hellfire Pass Memorial Museum, located close to Highway 323 near Kilometre 46. The museum contains memorabilia and paintings by prisoners who worked on the line. The paintings include a few by Chalker, as well as by Ronald Searle who was to become a prominent political cartoonist in Britain.

The Konyu Cutting itself is the start of a 4.5-kilometre memorial walk which follows the old rail line west to Compressor Cutting. Signboards give explanations of such landmarks as the “pack of cards bridge”. To go on the walk without a large bottle of water isn’t advisable, although it gives some insight into the privations the Pows had to face.

Another sombre memorial lies further west. At Kilometre 61 on Highway 323, a narrow lane descends to the Home Phu Toey Resort. Located at a particularly picturesque spot in the Khwae Noi Valley, the resort also has a memorial park honouring Weary Dunlop, the Australian doctor who helped many other Pows survive the ordeal.

Next to the park is a gallery which houses a comprehensive collection of Chalker’s drawings. Many depict how Dunlop and his team improvised facilities to fight the horrific tropical ulcers and other maladies that plagued prisoners.

A long, careful look at these images will deeply impress viewers. Few photographs recorded the conditions on the railway at that time, so the artwork by the POWs bears witness to the horror of its construction.

More than 90,000 Asian conscripts and more than 18,000 Allied Pows died building the line.

Near the gallery is a section of reconstructed track complete with an old steam locomotive and rolling stock.

Other engines commemorating the line can be found at Kanchanaburi, but these are not the only locomotives to commemorate a death railway in Thailand.

Fast facts

The Hellfire Pass Memorial Museum is near Kilometre 46. Run by the Office of Australian War Graves, the museum is open daily (9 am to 4 pm) and is free of charge. The Home Phu Toey Resort welcomes visitors who call in advance (call Khun Achara at 01 880 8971) if they want to see Jack Chalker’s drawings.

Websites www.travelmallasia.com provides a description of the resort and www.hotel-thailand.com offers special rates for Internet users. For more information, call Home Phu Toey Co Ltd (02) 621 1510-3.

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Tasty preserve

The people of an old market town in Suphan Buri have pulled themselves out of trouble by making their home a tourist attraction

Tanaporn Tangcharoenmankong
The Nation

Sam Chuk, an old market town along the Tha Chin River in Suphan Buri province, serves as a good example of how a community can contribute to changing the face of a place. The lively town, which is more than a century old, is today a dynamic and charming place to visit.

However, until a couple of years ago, Sam Chuk had been drafting its own obituary for quite some time. The thousands of visitors from all over the Kingdom you see there every weekend now could not even be imagined in those days.

In the good old days, when boats were the main mode of conveyance, Sam Chuk was an important centre for transporting goods. Merchants from all parts of the country stopped at the town overnight before heading to Bangkok. Thus, it was a very busy place until the coming of the highways.

The busy port almost closed down when the roads came. Many offices moved to Bangkok and the market became quiet with a drastic fall in the number of customers.
And no one would have had the chance to admire the Thai architecture, which has been there since the days of King Rama V, if the people in the area had agreed with the authorities to pull down their old wood houses and replace them with concrete structures.

“The land where the market is belongs to the Treasury Department ,” says Pongwin Chaiwirat, a member of the Sam Chuk Market Conservation committee. “The rental contract is renewed every three years. And they were afraid there might be a blaze, so they wanted to demolish the old wooden houses.”

It was a great dilemma for local the people, who already had to look for other ways of earning a living after business took a turn south. They basically had two choices, staying with what their ancestors built or pulling it all down.

The Udomchok Hotel was once always booked, with merchants making their reservations up to four months in advance. Arunluck Onwimol was afraid that the two-storey hotel would be pulled down because the owner had been announcing it was for sale. To conserve the establishment, she rented the inn and restored the ground floor into a coffee shop.

“Please come in and feel free to explore upstairs,” Arunluck says warmly. “Check it first and tell me later if you would like to check in.”

The second floor of Udomchok Hotel still remains as it was a century ago. But it’s not a haunted hotel like those you see in horror movies. As Arunluck, a former university lecturer, tells you, the place has been conserved so that visitors can experience how the hotel felt 100 years ago.

“It’s not a bad place for staying overnight. I just want to keep the old building and renovated the first floor for that cup of cappuccino visitors want,” she says. “The market is alive again after we agreed to conserve our houses and lifestyle and open it to the public and the media.”

Strolling along the market and having a good look at all the attractive architecture, including panels described in Thai as khanompang khing (literally, ginger bread), but actually delicately craved wooden curtains, done during King Rama V’s and VI’s times is an educative experience.

With about 300 houses, Sam Chuk market is spread out over four sois. It’s too small to get lost in. People are willing to direct you and it’s very likely they will ask if you have visited the Khun Chamnong Chinarak museum.

The house of a former Sam Chuk’s nobleman, Khun Chamnong Chinarak, has been renovated into a museum after his offspring donated the beautiful structure to the community.

Open from 8am to 5pm, the two-storey museum tells visitors the story of Sam Chuk through an exhibition of photographs. Small windows along the corridors throw attractive shadows on the old mosaic floor.

The second floor still retains the look of what it was when the owner lived there. The charming wooden house and antique furniture will definitely appeal to those with a historical bent.

If you want to have a photograph taken the old way, the Silp Thammachat, a photo studio on Soi 3 is the place to go. The 56-year-old photo shop is now run by Suree Aiempichairit.

She says that she learnt how to take a photo with an old camera from her father when she was 17.

“In the past, taking a photo was expensive. However, women loved to exchange pictures with each other,” she says. Silp Thammachat studio still uses an old camera and the old process of developing photographs in a dark room.

“Visitors can have a photo done the old way at Bt250 for two prints. We will mail them three weeks after. It used to be only one week but it takes longer now because there are many visitors. There are about 30 to 40 customers every weekend.”

Don’t think you will go hungry while visiting the market. Sam Chuk is famous for a variety of delectable dishes and desserts.

Khao hor bai bua (steamed jasmine rice wrapped in lotus leaf) is among the many worthies on the menus in town. For a try, visit the restaurant at the foot of Pornprapha Bridge. Here, Rungroj Prapruetdee said that he sells about 200 pieces of khao hor bai bua a day. A piece costs Bt25.

You might also not be disappointed with Jek Ao noodles. Just a minute’s walk from into the market, you see a very busy noodle stall. If you visit the market on a weekend, you may have to wait for customers who are about to leave.

The delicious homemade noodles and the great taste of the soup are worth waiting for. And if you think only one bowl is not enough, it would be wise to order the second the first time.

Want to have dessert and a cup of coffee after your meal? Take a seat at Je Muay Lek’s coffee shop or Tha Rua Song Coffee.

The ambience in these places is totally different from that of the modern coffee shops in the town. There’s no Internet corner or cappuccino. The shop serves traditional coffee, tea and cocoa. Sitting on a wooden chair, it’s enjoyable to sip a cup of iced coffee or tea served on an old marble table.

Try the traditional Thai desserts which are sold in front of the coffee shops. There is a wide variety – coconut milk Thai desserts such as klauy buad chee, khaoniew tua dum, tao suan and pla krim kai tao. But the best is khao fang piak (millet in coconut milk). The dessert costs Bt8.

There are plenty of interesting shops to explore in the small town such as Ku Seng Huad, selling old-style kitchenware, the Sam Chuk Bicycle shop and an old watch shop.

If you want to take food home, Ja Chued roasted duck and Jit’s dried gourami offer delectable choices.

Although the market is now a brisk place, Pongwin says that the local people are still not sure the good times are going to last.

“Local people want to renovate their homes. But they are not sure about the Treasury’s policy. With short-term rental contract, we are still afraid. We will consult the province’s deputy governor to ensure we have long-term contracts,” she says.

HOW TO GET THERE

Suphanburi is well accessed by different main roads. From Bangkok take Highway 1, or the eastern ring road (Road 9), then turn left into Road 32 that runs past Ayutthaya. Drive towards Angthong where you turn left into Road 3195. Drive for 10 minutes and then look for a sign for Road 3373, into which you turn right. In Si Prachan, Road 3373 will connect with Road 340 that leads northwards to Sam Chuk. On the way back, drive down Road 340, which offers a quick access to Ayutthaya, Pathum Thani and Bangkok. For the journey to Bangkok via Ayutthaya, take Road 3263 (just off Road 340 on the left) that leads to the ancient capital’s Bang Sa-ai, Sena and Muang districts respectively.

WHERE TO STAY

Wangyang Resort Hotel and Spa Suphanburi-Chai Nat Road, Si Prachan district
Tel: (035) 548 870-1, (081) 216 2835
Visit: http://www.WangyangResort.com
E-mail:  papapinky@doramail.com
Price range: Bt800-Bt2,000 Siam Suphan Homestay

Doem Bang Nangbuat district
Tel: (035) 515 943, (081) 370 3850
Visit: www.SiamSuphan-Homestay.com
E-mail: siamsuphanhomestay@hotmail.com
Price range: Bt1,400-Bt1,600

Ruen Rak Samunprai
Doem Bang Nangbuat district, not far from Tha Chang market
Tel: (035) 515 366, (035) 515 943
Price range: Bt1,200-Bt2,000

Khoom Suphan
Muen Han Road, Muang district
Tel: (035) 522 273-6
Price range: Bt1,000-Bt4,400

Sri Uthong Grand Hotel
Nang Pim Road, Muang district
Tel: (035) 501 290-3
Visit: http://www.SriUthongGrandHotel.com
Price range:  Bt1,200-Bt2,200

Danchang Camping House
Dan Chang district
Tel: (035) 595 198, (035) 595 647
Tel: www.GeoCities.com/DanChangCamp
Price range:  Bt500-Bt1,200

Country Lake View Hotel
Muang district
Tel: (035) 502 297-9
Visit: www.TheCountryResort.com
E-mail: countryresort05@hotmail.com
Price range: Bt650-Bt850

Baan Thai Resort
Suphanburi-Chainat Road, Si Prachan district
Tel: (035) 582 591-3, (035) 582 891-2
Visit: http://www.BaanThaiResort.co.th
Price range: Bt950-Bt1,750

Baan Suan
Sam Chuk district
Tel: (035) 544 143, (081) 012 1253
Price range: Bt900-Bt3,000

Lert Thanee Hotel
Muang district
Tel: (035) 525 755-6
Visit: www.LertThanee.com
E-mail: supsanpana@yahoo.com.th
Price range: Bt600-Bt1,200

Songpanburi Thanee
Prachathipatai Road, Muang district
Tel: (035) 546 667-71,  (035) 522 555-7
Visit: www.2000Buri.4t.com
E-mail: songphanburi@thaimail.com
Price range: Bt700-Bt2,000

Sam Chuk Resort
Sam Chuk district
Tel: (035) 504 210, (081) 407 0809
Visit:  www.SamChukResort.9nha.com
E-mail: j_aomjang@hotmail.com
Price range: Bt400-Bt700

WHERE TO EAT

Sam Chuk market hosts home-style restaurants that serve tasty local fare like khao hor bai bua and different sorts of Thai curries with rice. There is an abundance of restaurants elsewhere for visitors to choose from.

Phae Chao Khuen
Rim Khuen Krasiew Road, Dan Chang
Tel: (087) 112 4675, (081) 298 7783

Krua 27
U Thong district
Tel: (035) 481 319–20

Kor Thaiderm Pattana
U Thong Road, U Thong district
Tel: (035) 421 467, (081) 757 7786

Penjan
Don Chedi-Si Prachan Road, Don Chedi district
Tel: (035) 591 386

Thong Prasri
Located in Wangyang Resort, Si Prachan district
Tel: (035) 548 869-71

Tha Chin
Nang Pim Road, Muang district
Tel: (035) 525 538, (081) 639 5137

Ruen Phae Krua Suphan
Phopraya-Suphan Road, Muang district
Tel: (035) 524 209

Rabiang Mai
Next to Lert Thanee Hotel
Muang district
Tel: (035) 525 755–6

Baan Saithong Resort Restaurant
Suphan-Chai Nat Road, Muang district
Tel: (035) 581 866

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Scenes from history

The curtain has risen on Sanam Chan Palace, once the summer residence of the Shakespeare-loving King Rama VI

Phoowadon Duangmee
The Nation

King Vajiravudh loved plays and acting. This shows His Majesty in his own play, says the guide, leading our group towards a large black-and-white poster of an archer holding by a huge bow.

Some of my fellow travellers, an interesting mix of foreign ambassadors to Thailand, discreetly dab their foreheads to prevent the sweat dribbling into their eyes. It’s almost 40 degrees Celsius on a sultry April afternoon, and we are racing to visit Sanam Chan Palace in Nakhon Pathom.

Indeed, even Thais well versed in history might find it hard to recognise King Vajiravudh (Rama VI) dressed in sandals and the ordinary uniform of a local warrior.
Prince Vajiravudh, a son of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), was crowned King Rama VI in 1910. Educated in England, the young prince developed a fondness for the works of William Shakespeare and brought many of them back to Thailand.

He was the founder of Chulalongkorn University, the country’s first university, a dog lover and a thespian. In 1907, a few years before his accession to the throne, the artistic Crown Prince built Sanam Chan Palace as a summer residence at Nakhon Pathom.

Set in 355 acres of magnificent grounds, Sanam Chan Palace was completed in 1911 and was used by the Crown Prince whenever he visited Phra Pathom Chedi, the country’s tallest pagoda.

The palace, which has long served as the provincial hall, was closed to visitors until last year. Recently, part of the residence has been remodelled as a museum exhibiting the king’s works.

We approach the palace from the pagoda side, arriving in front of the statue of Yah Leh, King Vajiravudh’s beloved dog. This crossbreed, it’s said, was adopted by the Crown Prince, and went everywhere with him. One day, the animal was shot and killed by an envious man.

So sad was the king at losing his friend, he wrote a poem expressing his feelings. An excerpt is inscribed at the base of the life-size statue that stands in front of Chali Mongkol Asana building in the palace compound.

Chali Mongkol Asana is a picturesque, two-storey, European-style castle, complete with small towers and a spire. The king’s working room is on the second floor, next door to his bedroom.

The royal residence also once served as the offices of the Dusit Samid, a weekly newspaper published by King Vajiravudh. Printed ceased shortly after the king’s death in 1925.

We leave King Vajiravudh’s residence and move into the classic cream-painted walkway leading to the pink, two-storey neo-classical Marie Raja Rata Ballang building.

From the windows of the walkway, we stop to admire the stunning landscaped gardens alive with colourful summer flowers and tall, graceful trees.

King Vajiravudh reigned during a time of transition and continued the modernisations introduced by his father. The young prince had studied at England’s Royal Military Academy in Sandhurst but it was at Oxford University that he developed a fondness for Shakespeare.

He translated “The Merchant of Venice”, “As You Like It” and “Romeo and Juliet” into Thai, and introduced several more contemporary works to the Kingdom.

Many royal guards and pages back then, according to Kukrit Pramote’s historical title “Four Reigns”, were cast in “new kinds” of performances and plays.

Taking inspiration from EB Norman and Arnold Golsworthy’s play “My Friend Jarlet”, the Marie Raja Rata Ballang mansion was built in European style with authentic golden teak. Adding to the magic are the king’s collection of plays, samples of his handwriting (rough yet elegant), the draft of his own play as well as photos of his life on and off the stage.

While Chali Mongkol Asana and Marie Raja Rata Ballang reflect King Vajiravudh’s passion for European architecture, Tap Kwan, with its cluster of traditional Thai houses, reveal his love for classic Thai design.

Built by a master architect, these eight traditional houses were made of golden teakwood and while perhaps they are more film-set than home, they still have the power to impress.

Our last stop turns out to be the first royal building to have been constructed on the site - Phiman Pathom. Perched on a spacious piece of land, Phiman Pathom looks rather like a large white hen about to lift her wings to guard her little chicks.

The two-storey building resembles a European mansion, but is well adapted for tropical climes. King Vajiravudh used the royal residence for official meetings with court officers as well as for hosting royal receptions for foreign ambassadors.

With the tour coming to an end, we are taken to the ground floor for refreshments and afternoon tea.

In the far distance, we can see the spire of the country’s tallest pagoda. To the right hand is the  cluster of traditional Thai houses. A little further, the European castle and the pink mansion shimmer in the evening sunlight.

The years simply slip away and the historic buildings come alive again.
Sanam Chan Palace is open every day, except for national holidays from 9.30am to 4pm. Entrance costs Bt30   for adults, Bt10 for children and monks and Bt50 for foreigners. For more information, call (034) 244 237.

HOW TO GET THERE

At only 56 kilometres from Bangkok, Nakhon Pathom is well served by Highway 4. From Bangkok, keep going westwards by first crossing either Phra Pinklao Bridge or Rama VIII Bridge and then following Borommaratchachonnani Road, or Road 338, which ultimately connects with Highway 4 (Phetchakasem Road) in Nakhon Chaisi.
You can take the right turn into Highway 4 for the journey to Muang district (the Great Pagoda and Sanam Chan Palace) or the left turn for a good time in Sam Phran. On the way back, take a different route by following the highway to Ratchaburi and Phetchaburi before entering the capital city through Road 35 and then the western or eastern ring road respectively.

WHERE TO STAY

Rose Garden Hotel
Sam Phran
Tel: (02) 673 0966
Price range: Bt2,100-Bt6,600

Nakhon Inn
Ratwithi Road, Muang district
Tel: (034) 251 152-4
Price range: Bt525-Bt675

Piman
Phetchakasem Road
Tel: (034) 243 555
Price range: Bt400-Bt2,000

Whale
Ratwithi Road, Muang district
Tel: (034) 253 855-63, (034) 280 213-7
Visit: http://www.Whale.co.th
E-mail: info@whale.co.th
Price range: Bt600-Bt1,800

River
Phetchakasem Road, Muang district
Tel: (034) 280 440-5
Price range: Bt390-Bt1,400

Saen Palm Training Home
Kamphaeng San
Tel: (034) 351 400, (034) 355 166
Visit: http://www.Naetc.eto.kps.ku.ac.th
E-mail:  achara_24@yahoo.com
Price range: Bt300-Bt960

Suwan Golf and Country Home Club
Nakhon Chaisi
Tel: (034) 339 333
Price range: Bt1,500-Bt3,000

Pair Sriwichai
Nakhon Chaisi
Tel: (034) 331 978
Price range: Bt400-Bt800

WHERE TO EAT

Khrua Siam
Ratchadamnoen Road, Muang district
Tel: (034) 255 080

Ruang Khao
Muang district
Tel:  (034) 288 688, (089) 612 7614

Lek Pochana
Ratchadamnoen Road, Muang district
Tel: (034) 252 679

Lom Choy
Sakhorn Thanakorn Road, Muang district
Tel: (034) 241 996

Pathom Pochana
Malai Man Road, Muang district
Tel:  (034) 254 374

Khrua Ruen Naam
Nakhon Chaisi
Tel: (034) 232 558

Som Kaew
Sam Phran district
Tel:  (02) 889 4152

Khrua Yaa Kha
Pipitprasat Road, Muang district
Tel:  (034) 215 008

The Meeting Point Plaza
Songpol Road, Muang district
Tel: (034) 270 123

Baan Rim Naam
Kamphaeng Saen
Tel:  (034) 351 077,

Bua Luang
Salaya, Muang district
Tel: (02) 441 9303, (02) 441 9186

Rose Garden
Sam Phran
Tel: (034) 322 588-93

See Fah
Nakhon Chaisi
Tel:  (034) 331 233, (081) 448 8811

Slowly down the Nakhon Chai Sri

A leisurely cruise on a converted rice barge makes for the perfect weekend getaway from Bangkok

Phoowadon Duangmee
The Nation

For anyone who loves to loathe “Hi-So Baan Nok”, a TV series featuring a group of pathetic well-to-do socialites trying to survive in the countryside, escaping Bangkok by boat has a certain appeal. Unlike the television show, you don’t have to mess in anyone’s life at Lam Phya, just climb aboard a renovated rice barge, sleep out on deck and wallow in a large dose of sweet nostalgia from a beautiful past. Plus, it’s only an hour and a half away from Bangkok.

We three weekenders leave Bangkok one Sunday afternoon for the Lam Phya Floating Market in Nakhon Pathom. Driving on the Outer Ring-Road from Rattana Thibet, the traffic starts to mellow past Bangkok’s western suburbs.

Turning left off the main road, we finally leave behind the gigantic mega-store boxes and sprawling suburbs. The scene is now more bucolic, engulfed by the checkered squares of rice fields.

Flocks of storks dabble on treetops. What’s missing here are water buffalo (with magpies on their backs) roaming the fields and a country song emanating from a timeworn transistor radio. Otherwise, you’d think you had turned the clock back to the 1960s.

Ben, a charming woman who has left her luxury resort and Spa bath on Koh Samui to spend a, well, rustic weekend with us, approaches a coffee seller on the side of the road.

“Excuse me!” she says. “We’re going to the Lam Phya Floating Market, but the thing is, we don’t know where are we now.”
The woman flashes a broad smile once we order three cups of coffee and is kind enough to show us the way.

Thanks to her directions, we finally find our destination after an hour or so of many wrong turns.

Lam Phya. Long before the days of the highway, this riverside community, a beautiful mix of Thai farmers and Chinese immigrants, was a backwater.

Travel to Bangkok meant you had to wake up at two in the morning and wait for a double-decked passenger boat coming from the upper waterways of Suphan Buri. Then you caught the morning train at Ngeiw Rai Station in Nakhon Pathom to reach Bangkok Noi terminal.

Fast facts

Lam Phya Floating Market is tucked away on Phutamonthon Sai Si Road. The market is open on Saturdays and Sundays.

Tour operator Nature Trek organises overnight cruises on the Nakhon Chai Sri River every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. The price is Bt700 per person for a group of 12 people. Breakfast and dinner are included. The cruise begins late afternoon and ends on the afternoon of the next day.

A transfer between Bangkok and Lam Phya is available on demand.
For more information, call (02) 556 1223 or (01) 554 1597.

Lam Phya’s river of life

Gone are those days of laborious boat travel. New paved roads now connect the small town of Lam Phya to the outside world.

Phoowadon Duangmee
The Nation
Nation photos/ Phoowadon Duangmee

And over the past few years, Lam Phya’s local temple and community have returned life back to river by recreating the long-lost floating market. This has attracted many Bangkok weekenders for its tall stacks of non-chemical farming produce.
“For the people of Lam Phya, this river is special,” says Pornthip Wattanasukkij, a Lam Phya-born tour operator who recently launched a small rice barge on the river.
“These days, you can hardly find any river as clean as the Nakhon Chai Sri, especially as it flows through Lam Phya.”

Breaking off from the great Chao Phya, the river sweeps down from Sing Buri through Suphan Buri, Nakhon Pathom and Samut Sakhon. But the communities in Nakhon Pathom, from Bang Len to Lam Phya to Nakhon Chai Sri in the far south, make other people jealous because their waterway is so much cleaner.

“This is the most beautiful part of the river, where the lifestyle is very much the same as it was decades ago,” says the rice barge captain as we push off from the floating market and head upriver. “If you travel further up to Suphan Buri, the river is small and shallow. Hardly any boats can run through it. You might find a wider river toward Samut Sakhon, but the filthy suburbs cut down the river’s charm.”

From the vantage point of a rattan chair, Lam Phya appears hardly untouched by the upheavals of the last 30 years: rice farms by the river, women picking aquatic vegetables, a man with a fishnet waiting for his catch of the day.
We cruise through a landscape that appears like a setting for a movie: a timeworn traditional Thai house, a small sampan pulling by the bank, rice mills, Buddhist temples, Chinese shrines, retired rice barges. The scenery keeps rolling and changing like a slide show.

Sometimes we tie up at temple and go exploring with an anthropologist’s mind.
In Wat Bang Pla, midway between Lam Phya and Bang Len, we are surprised to find an elongated sampan that was made in the days of King Rama IV. The boat once belonged to an abbot.

“When he had a meeting in Bangkok, the monk would take the boat,” says Pornthip. “How long did the journey take? I have no idea.”

Only a stone’s throw to the west of the old sampan stands an eye-popping temple building entirely painted in gold.

Stepping closer, I’m surprised to see how much the local people really love the river – the small chapel is built to look like a boat, with walls and windows looking like the side view of a river vessel.

“Do you want to know the temple’s secret?” asks a noodle-seller while we’re waiting for our second bowl of noodles.

“The Buddha can ‘give’ lottery numbers. Very accurate indeed.”
This sounds illogical to us scientific-minded weekenders. How can the stone Buddha tell a lottery number?

My friends sidle inside the chapel and come out with smiling faces. They have discovered the reason behind all the gold of the chapel: whenever people win the jackpot, they always give a “little something” to the Buddha.
From the temple, we turn and cruise back to the floating market with much hope of seeing charming ladies bathing by the river.

Alas! Either it’s the wrong day or we’re late. But the glorious sunset quite makes up for the disappointment.

We tie the boat by the riverbank and spend the night on board. The rice barge has a long history of travelling from one mill to another.

Pornthip has renovated and refurbished it as a stylish river cruiser. Clean white sheets are placed on the deck, covered by the largest mosquito net you have ever slept under. And the lullaby is a ragged symphony of little frogs and other night creatures.

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A day with good neighbour Nonthaburi

Festooned with tradition and thick with orchards, Bangkok’s northern chum proffers a tantalising weekend getaway

Vipasai Niyamabha
Special to the Nation

On a Sunday, when the traffic’s light, it takes just 30 minutes to drive from the heart of Bangkok to Nonthaburi. Yet despite being a mere 20 kilometres away and a great place for a day trip, this attractive province is often overlooked by city dwellers.
Located to the north of Bangkok, Nonthaburi is situated in a fertile basin on the banks of the Chao Phya River and criss-crossed by a plethora of canals.

To older residents of Bangkok, it’s probably best known for its fruit orchards, especially durian, mangosteen, mango and pomelo. And while it’s metamorphosed from semi rural clusters to busy urban centres over the last three decades, Nonthaburi has retained much of its agricultural charm.

You can see the abundance of fruit by heading down to Bang Ku Viang floating market in Bang Kruay district between 6 and 8 am and watching local farmers load up their boats with seasonal produce. Other smaller floating markets can also be found in Sai Noi on the Pimol Racha canal and at Wat Saeng Siritham near the Tha-it market.
Or make straight for the orchards. If you can stand the smell, don’t miss the 100-year-old durian orchard, which boasts all the species found in Thailand, from chanee, monthong to kanyao.

Artist Spa and Homestay is a good starting point for anyone wanting to visit the fruit orchards. And if you’re staying there, don’t forget to try its relaxing Thai massage and other spa treatments. The art-minded can even opt for an afternoon painting lesson in the lush gardens.

But if you’re really serious about massage, then head into Nonthaburi town and sign up for one of the massage courses offered by the Thai Traditional Medical Training Centre in the Public Health Ministry on Tiwanon Road. While you’re there, take a tour of the TTM museum.

Nonthaburi was founded some 400 years ago in the Ayutthaya period, and its long history is reflected in its temple architecture. Must-sees include Wat Prasat in Muang district, a monastery built in Mon style, Wat Chal-o in Bang Kruay district, and Wat Prang Luang in Bang Yai district. There are also many more temples built in the early Rattanakosin period, plus temples with progressive thought of Buddhism. The prominent of all is Wat Chonprathan Rangsarit, the monastery made famous by the most-revered abbot Panya Nahdha Bhikku who passed away last year.

At Wat Suan Kaew in Bang Yai district, people discuss dhamma with abbot Phra Phayom Kalyano. The well-respected monk also runs many charitable projects for the poor so don’t be surprised to find many Buddhists shopping for second hand goods at the temple’s very own flea market.

Also worth visiting are Koh Kret, a tiny island that serves as home to the Mon community, and the royal temple of Wat Chalerm Prakiat in Karnchanapisek Park. This 40-acre park by the western bank of the Chao Phya, is home to various plants plus a lovely Thai traditional house and pagoda-style pavilion.

End the trip with a visit to the royal teak house of Tamnak Prathom. The house was once located in the compound of Phetchabun Palace - today the site of CentralWorld - and home to HRH Prince Chudadhuj Dharadilok, the 72nd child of the King Rama V. Today, Tamnak Prathom is a  private museum and a Harp Centre.

HOW TO GET THERE

The easiest way of getting to Nonthaburi is by car. Follow Road 302 and cross the Chao Phya River on Phra Nang Klao Bridge. Turn off for Muang District and Koh Kret by taking Road 306, For Chalerm Prakiat, take Road 3110 or for Bang Kruay take Road 3215. Road 340 leads to Bang Bua Thong and Bang Yai Districts. Drivers taking the Rama VI Bridge should follow the Bang Kruay-Sai Noi Road (Route 3215) toward Sai Noi district.

WHERE TO STAY

There are many decent choices of lodging in Nonthaburi. Most are in traditional Thai style, and set amid tropical garden and fruit orchards.

Baan Dvaraprateep on the quiet side of Koh Kret, offers many health and meditation programmes all year round,
Tel: Tel: (081) 845 5445, (02) 373 6457
Visit: www.BaandVaraprateep.com
Email: Email: kanyaporn@baandvaraprateep.com

Baan Ruan Thai in Bang Yai district, is a gorgeous Thai house and offers Thai cooking classes too.

Tel: (02) 903 9611, (02) 997 5161
www.ThaiHouse.co.th
E-mail : pip_thaihouse@hotmail.com

Nontnatee Resort set by the Bang Kruay canal in Bang Pai, offers bungalow style accommodation in a lush garden setting.
Tel: (02) 879 5773-4
www.NontnateeResort.com
info@nontnateeresort.com

Price range: Bt1,500-Bt2,400

Panasom in Bang Yai district, is a relaxing place to stay in Thai style houses. Tel: (02) 449 2253, (081) 206 2116
E-mail: panasom_resort@hotmail.com
Price range: Bt1,200-Bt3,000

Ban Ing Nam Health Resort and Spa in Pak Kret district, offers luxury accommodation for upmarket travellers.
Tel : (02) 962 7750-2
Visit: www.BanIngNam.com

Baan Mai Hom in Bang Yai district, is a small yet cosy hotel amid fruit orchards.
(02) 449-7822-25 ext 101 and ext 107
www.BaanMaiHom.com
E-mail : pol-p@hotmail.com
Price range: Bt2,00-Bt4,000

Baan Suan Silp Thai Sabaai or Artist Spa and Homestay in Bang Yai District, offers accommodation, orchard tours and spa.
Tel: (02) 921 5175, (02) 921 5185
Visit: http://www.ArtistSpaResort.com
E-mail: info@artistsparesort.com
Price range: Bt750-Bt2,000

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Pockets of Paradise

Once a tranquil backwater, Pran Buri is being discovered by resort developers

Manote Tripathi
The Nation

A mere 20 minute’s drive away from bustling Hua Hin, peaceful Pran Buri lures visitors with its tree-lined coast road, vibrant fishing villages, fresh and sun-dried seafood and endless empty beaches.

But at just 281 kilometres from Bangkok, it’s impossible not to notice the changes that are taking place in this district of Prachuap Khiri Khan as locals sell their land and new resorts mushroom. Property development has taken root, but there’s still plenty of rusticity to be found. And while tradition is co-existing with luxury in this old-fashioned resort area, one cannot help but wonder how much longer that harmony will last.

Once in Pran Buri, you won’t want to leave. Aside from sun and sea, there’s lush forest, ubiquitous coconut trees and powdery white sandy beaches that seem to stretch on forever. But Pran Buri has never been a favourite resort town for the jet-setting elite from Bangkok or indeed for the Siamese royalty. It’s considered as one of Hua Hin’s satellite beaches and is a key military town, with Burma just over the border.

The drive to Pran Buri from Hua Hin offers breath-taking views. Road 3168, off Highway 4, rises and dips along the low hills that are part of the nearby national park. Many visitors pull over at Khao Kaloke, a hill right in the middle of Pran Buri beach, to eat at one of the seafood restaurants or food stalls hawking Isaan fare.
Another popular stop, particularly with western diners, is Sawadikarn Restaurant on the other side of the hill, where you can sit at bamboo tables overlooking a bay dotted with stationery fishing trawlers.

South of Pran Buri, you’ll find the villages of Baan Nong Baan Kao and Baan Rua Yai. Here, the beach is long and wide and usually empty. Even a fisherman pushing a cart loaded with shrimps – a common sight elsewhere – is rare here. For many decades, this has been one of the most beautiful beachside roads in southern Thailand, flanked by the blue sea on one side and acres of greenery on the other. Today, the view is marred by signs for land sales and ads for new resorts.

The metalled part of the road extends southwards from Khao Kaloke for about three kilometres ending at a small sala with a blue tiled roof. This is a pleasant place to park and rest awhile, contemplating the sand and sea, before continuing along the dirt track to other villages further down the beach and eventually to Khao Sam Roi Yod National Park, 20km away.

Southern Pran Buri offers true rustic charm with sleepy fishing villages and a few quiet and inexpensive bungalows. Enjoy an overnight stay here and you’re guaranteed a solitary beach walk as the sun rises.

There’s plenty to engage you in northern Pran Buri as well. A trip back up the road leads to the much-acclaimed Evason Hua Hin before finishing at Paknam Pran at the mouth of the Pran Buri River.

Here you can take a boat inland along the river for glimpses of fishing villages, shrines, the mangrove and several species of bird. On your return, explore the fishing villages at the mouth of the river and stock up on dried squid and shrimp at very reasonable prices.

Rest in the small sala at the end of the road overlooking the mouth of the river and watch the fishing trawlers as they plough the waves. The dark green water of the river as it meets the blue sea makes for a stunning picture.

There are cheap bungalows in Paknam Pran too and unlike those in northern Pran Buri, they are run by villagers and come with great seafood. And if the sun is too hot, chill out at the bar of the Evason Hua Hin right on the beach road – afternoon tea can be had at the very reasonable price of Bt450.

HOW TO GET THERE

From Bangkok, it’s easy to get to southern Thailand now that the eastern ring road links with Rama II Road (Highway 35, aka Thon Buri-Pakthor Road). Take the expressway or the ring road that leads to Highway 35, and travel straight through to Samut Sakhon and Samut Songkhram. Turn left at Highway 4 (Phetkasem Road) for Hua Hin. Continue on the same highway from Hua Hin for about 10 minutes. Then, Road 3168 on the left leads all the way to Pran Buri.

WHERE TO STAY

Chivasom
Hua Hin
Tel: (032)536 536
www.Chivasom.com
Price range: Bt20,000-Bt40,000

Sofitel Centara Grand Resorts & Villas Hua Hin
Hua Hin
Tel: (032) 512 021-38
www.CentaraHotelsResorts.com
Price range: Bt4,940-Bt15,890

Let’s Sea
Hua Hin
Tel: (032)536 888
www.LetUsSea.com
Price range: Bt9,000-Bt12,000

Baan Panali
Pran Buri
Tel: (086) 051 2333
www.Baan-Panali.com
Price range: Bt1,500-Bt5,000

Lawana Beach Resort
Pran Buri
Tel: (032) 632 222, (089) 062 9998
www.LawanaPranburi.com
Price range: Bt2,000-Bt5,000

Baan Lon Sai
Pran Buri
Tel: (032) 630 582, (081) 720 2306
Price range: Bt1,200

Pattawia Resort
Tel: (032) 570 304
www.PattawiaResort.com
Price range: Bt2,890-Bt15,980

Le Bay Buri
Pran Buri
Tel: (02) 696 8239
www.LeBayBuri.com
Price range: Bt15,000-Bt50,000

Praseban Resort
Pran Buri
Tel: (032) 630 590-1
www.PrasebanResort.com
Price range: Bt7,000-Bt15,000

Huaplee Lazy Beach
Pran Buri
Tel: (086) 334 936
www.HuapleeLazyBeach.com
Price range: Bt2,500-Bt6,800

Baan Chom Thalay
Pran Buri
Tel: (032) 630 559, (081) 011 0336
Price range: Bt1,000-Bt1,500

The Evason Hua Hin
Pran Buri
Tel: (032) 632 111
www.SixSenses.com/evason-huahin/index.php
Price range: Bt4,750-Bt14,200

WHERE TO EAT

Plenty of restaurants in Pran Buri, including Raan Sawadikarn, are located around Khao Kaloke, along with a range of food stalls selling grilled chicken, som tam and other local fare.

The Palm Pavillion
Sofitel Centara, Damnernkasem Road, Hua Hin
Tel: (032) 512 021-38

Supatra by the Sea
Takiab Road, Hua Hin
Tel: (032) 536 893-4

Naeb Talay
Naeb Kehas Road, Hua Hin
Tel: (032) 531 470

Lom Talay
Bang Herd Beach, Muang district
Tel: (087) 897 0664

3 Puying
Hua Hin
Tel: (032) 522 551

Korawik
Naeb Kehas Road, Hua HIn
Tel: (032) 514 516

Baan Chon Talay
Pran Buri
Tel: (032) 630 559

Chon Ngoen
Hua Hin
Tel: (032) 520 341

Sasi Restaurant
Hua Hin
Tel: (032) 512 488

Let’s Sea
Hua Hin (near Khao Takiab)
Tel: (032) 536 022

Baan Isara
Naeb Kehas Road, Hua Hin
Tel: (032) 530 574

Hua Hin on the Cheap

If the family fortune is still beyond your grasp, here’s how to see Thailand’s best beach resort without wrecking your wallet

Vipasai Niyamabha
The Nation

Fifty years ago, when Hua Hin was just being recognised as a fabulous holiday beach destination, no one was paying Bt10,000 a night for a room at the Railway Hotel, although even then it was the most luxurious place in town.

And no one was paying Bt40 for a scoop of ice cream, either, or Bt400 for a biscuit party by the beach. Hua Hin is still a favourite getaway for well-heeled Thais, but is it even a possibility for budget travellers? If you’ve got Bt2,000 a day for two this month, lingering over your Earl Grey too long at the Museum Tea Corner might be inadvisable. That’s Bt420 each off your budget for a start, and as much as high tea in colonial splendour is appealing, let’s move on.

Taking the shoestring tour of Hua Hin begins with a sense of pride upon pulling into one of the inexpensive guesthouses, having just endured roughly two hours on the road from Bangkok.

If you want to be close to the beach – and, yes, paying next to nothing – walk past the Marriott on Phetkasem Road and turn left into a small, quiet street with no name. Look for a big signboard with a long list of guesthouses. Among these are the Leng, the Thip-Urai and the Chanphen.

In high tourist season, most of these are fully booked with visitors from a part of Europe that gives the street its jocular name: Soi Scandinavia. For Bt750 a night, tax included, you’re not going to get much, as you can gather from the tiny reception areas.

The rooms typically have a pair of single beds, clean bathrooms, air-conditioning, a fridge and a TV. The good news is that you’ll find a fair-sized swimming pool, most unusual for this price range.

“This street used to be a small townhouse estate with the shared pool,” says the manager of one of the inns. “When the houses were converted into guesthouses, the owners split the expenses to keep the pool for all their guests.”
During the current low season, many of the guesthouses are being renovated, so there’s a bit of noise to put up with, but the hammering and the economical proportions are quickly forgotten when you stroll down a small alley to the blue sea and long sandy beach. Go on, do some shopping! Buy a can of pop for Bt20. It’s a shorter walk to the surf if you stay in town, and it still costs only Bt750 for most places on busy Srasong Road.

There’s also a grim-looking youth hostel that offers dormitory-style sleeping for Bt120. And lots of budget travellers head to Nares Damri Road, near the Hilton, for seaside accommodation on stilts. At the Fulay Guesthouse, prices vary – a room for two with a fan and tiny shower goes for Bt350 to Bt450, while air-conditioned rooms start at Bt850.

Hungry?
Head to popular Khao Tom Jae Maew for rice soup with seafood at Bt30 a bowl. It’s on Dechanuchit Road near the night market, which is packed with stalls selling fishy foods for between Bt50 to Bt300 (unless you order a lobster, of course).

Plus, you can satisfy your sweet tooth with sticky rice and ripe mango (Bt50) or coconut ice cream (Bt15). Strolling along the beach is free, but if you want to perch on a canvas chair, that’ll be Bt50. Find yourself a sunny bit of sand instead – just be careful a horse doesn’t step on you.

Hua Hin is small enough that you can wander around for hours without needing wheels, but a short taxi ride only costs Bt50. Just four kilometres from Hua Hin town is the village of Khao Takiab. It’s Bt300 by taxi, but you can just as easily wait for a Bt10 songtaew near the night market.

Or, rent a motorbike for Bt400 a day to tour Khao Takiab, the lookout on Hin Lek Fai Hill and the elephant camp north of town. The standing Buddha at Khao Takiab – which doesn’t cost a single satang to admire – gazes out over the sea, and there’s a temple that also offers panoramic views for the price of a steep climb. (If you have food with you, but not enough to share, watch out for the monkeys – they’re the champs when it comes to freeloading.)

A stroll back to Hua Hin can be tiring, but it’s an hour well spent. There are lovely colonial beach houses with lush gardens on the way, many of which once belonged to Siamese nobility.

In the mood for some culture? Try the Rashnee Thai Silk Village, where the whole silk-making process is explained – at no charge.

A little golf? A tight budget is no problem on Mother’s Day (August 12), when women pay just Bt74 to get teed off at the Majestic Creek and Palm Hills resorts.
After a long day of scrimping and saving, you must have some money to reward yourself with a nice romantic meal by the sea!
For a mere Bt300, visit one of the shoreline restaurants near the Hilton. Fried rice costs Bt95, fried vegetables the same and a small Singha beer Bt55. There you go. The Bt255 seafood pizza and Bt350 fried seabass will just have to wait until you’ve inherited your fortune.

The Hilton’s Hua Hin Brewing Company, by the way, has a live band as well as DJs, and stays open late. A small glass of Sabai Sabai Beach Beer will set you back all of Bt140. Maybe you can manage that.

If in the course of your day you’ve accumulated enough budget-brained friends, perhaps you can collectively muster Bt1,500 and get a 3.5-litre tub of the suds. That should keep you happily broke.

And if there’s any spare change left in your pocket at all, 7-Eleven is open all night.

Healthier in Hua Hin

Serenity and superb beaches aren’t good enough for the old seaside town – especially if they aren’t comfortable too

Vipasai Niyamabha
The Nation

The last thing vacationers in Hua Hin encountered in days gone by was a traffic jam. And crowded beaches and untidiness were almost unheard of in this once-small seaside town made famous by royalty.

Today the many Hua Hin hotels overlooking the Gulf of Thailand are beautifully designed, and many turn-of-the century houses have been restored.

Here, after all, is Klai Kangwol Palace, the preferred residence of His Majesty the King.
But with its increasing popularity, Hua Hin has become home, too, to Starbucks, Pizza Hut and Burger King (though for some reason it’s yet to see a McDonald’s).

It’s also discovered pollution and traffic congestion, and with national (and, increasingly, global) attention cast its way, the citizens feel the need to spruce things up.

Sirapan Kamolpramote, a native of the town who’s just been elected its mayor, is fretting about the crowding, litter and other signs of decline that come with modernity and renown.

He’s joined hands with private businesses to launch the Preserve Hua Hin Group. The goal is to regenerate the town centre as “paradise city”.

“We’ve already examined the best ways to secure Hua Hin’s future as the premier holiday town in Thailand,” he says.

“The municipal planning strategists have identified five objectives to tackle in the next three years, from landscape enhancement and traffic congestion to pollution and zoning.”

Hua Hin has become a major resort destination, with traffic jams the by-product. There’s now an urgent effort underway to stop the problem before it gets worse – or at least reduce the road clogs – with neither residents nor tourists like, says Sirapan.
“Hua Hin has its disadvantages in transportation,” he notes. “There’s only the one highway connect it to other districts, so its fast growth inevitably leads to traffic jams.”

The solution, Sirapan believes, lies in expanded parking at the bus terminal, one-way traffic in the town centre and the launch of a weekend shuttle-bus service.
“The allocation we’ve received from the government for 2005 of Bt1 million is obviously not sufficient to solve the traffic congestion. To achieve this objective, we need at least Bt10 million.”

Sirapan will this month ask the owners of thehouses and businesses along the Phetkasen highway to cooperate with the urban improvement plan and keep their properties’ facades as immaculate as possible – including fresh paint, with the shophouses and other commercial buildings preferably done in cream shades.

Another problem much discussed is the food vendors, shops and other seaside businesses encroaching onto the public beach.

“We’ve managed so far to clear away three stalls from the public entrance to the beach near the Sofitel Central Hotel,” Sirapan says. “This problem is also found in the Khao Takieb area a few kilometres south of town.”
To help solve the problem, at least one day a week will be set aside to clear everything off the beach, leaving it as pristine as it once was. Sirapan suggests an “all-clear” every Wednesday to begin with, but awaits the results of a questionnaire that’s being circulated in the community.

“I can guarantee that people will see an improvement within six months. These efforts won’t solve all the problems 100 per cent this year, but they will definitely improve by next year.”

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Blessed by Mother Nature

With fresh, cool air and terrific scenery, Ratchaburi’s Suan Phung district makes for a great weekend escape

Manote Tripathi
The Nation
Nationphotos

Just 270 kilometres from Bangkok, Ratchaburi’s Suan Phung district captures the spirit and vitality of both Chiang Mai and Khao Yai but still retains its own identity.

Like in Thailand’s other two beauty spots, you drive along winding roads flanked by wild landscapes, look up at steep, forested hills, their peaks lost in the clouds, and enjoy cool weather and clean air. An added bonus in Ratchaburi is the tangy sea breeze that blows in at night from the Gulf of Martaban in Burma.

It’s easy to get carried away by the pristine nature but soon you can’t help but notice how new resorts are making inroads to the foothills as well as more revolutionary changes to Mother Nature, some of them unwanted.

For many weekenders, these resorts – mostly owned by proprietors from elsewhere — are destinations in their own right, bringing urban chic and spa sensations to the heart of the wild. Eco-conscious visitors are understandably less enthusiastic. But the developers are still buying up land, so now is the time to go.

The joy of visiting Suan Phung begins as you enter the province’s parameters. Road 3206 that goes from Pak Tho to Suan Phung by way of Ban Kha sub-district is the most scenic and highly recommended for the journey to the hilly district, with forest and mountain views on both sides all the way to your destination. At times it looks as if you’re driving to Khao Yai or perhaps Mae Rim in Chiang Mai.

Set in the highlands branching out from the Tenasserim Range, Suan Phung is a tropical paradise blessed with unspoilt attractions. A popular spot with day-trippers is Pong Krathing Hot Spring, but as it requires a 28-km detour off the main road, a trip to the Pong Yup Salt Lick is probably better value in these days of high gas prices. Less than 10 km off Road 3087, there’s a Bt40 admission fee – the site is on private property – and the road leading to the salt lick is absolutely breathtaking, with acres of pineapple orchards stretching as far as the eye can see.

Pong Yup tends to upstage any hot spring with its unique architecture artfully sculptured by Mother Nature. Caused by years of subsidence and erosion, the site has a mini canyon-like feel with a series of brown curves and mounts against a lush backdrop of trees.

A 10-minute drive away is Bo Klueng hot spring (private property since 1925) and the scenic Nam Tok Kao Chan, or the Nine Level waterfall, which tends to get crowded during the rainy season.

Bo Klueng is a prime example of a poorly managed private tourist spot. The property owner has built a restaurant right next the hot spring to allow diners to watch those frolicking in the man-made pond into which the hot spring flows into. Naturally, the focus is more on selling food and drink than maintaining the site, and the Bt5 admission fee is augmented by a Bt30 charge (Bt10 for children) for a dip in the pond. The water, which looks none too clean, is usually packed with children. And about 100 metres away, a sign is details the quality, which at pH8.02, seems more alkaline that it should be and not that hot at 56 degrees Celsius.

At the entrance to the site, there are several western-made heavy-duty vehicles from the now-defunct tin mines nearby, presumably to remind visitors of Suan Phueng’s glorious past.

Locals will almost certainly recommend a drive up Khao Krajom Hill to see the clouds but unless you have a four-wheel drive, forget it. You can only motor comfortably to the Mon village at the end of Road 3087, but from there it’s a dirt track used only by pick-up trucks.

Over the border lies Burma’s Tavoy division although the official border crossing is still some 15-km away. Bulan Rantree, manager of the famed Usawadee Rose Farm, who is fluent in Karen and for many years worked in Tavoy researching species of fish in the Tenasserim River, says the forest is denser and more lush on the Burmese side. The Tenasserim River has a bountiful supply of fish, with many species that are not found in Thailand.

“The Karens there go fishing with an M-16. They drop the bait into the water and within seconds, hundreds of fish emerge. Then they shoot them,” he says.
The Usawadee farm has Burmese, Mon and Karen workers, reflecting the area’s ethnic diversity. Their friendliness and hospitality is second to none. Half of Bangkok’s roses used to come from this farm alone. Now, with prices of roses on the ebb, only five rai are available for visitors to view. The hottest crops among farmers here, says Bulan, are Japanese mushrooms.

The weather is deliciously cool and the wind gets up in the evening, meaning you don’t need air-conditioning or even a fan when overnighting at one of the hillside resorts. If it’s too cool, visitors tend to order fiery hot, but delicious Karen chilli sauce served with fresh assorted vegetables.

As I drive away, I find myself hoping time will stand still in this sleepy hilly outpost, at least until I can return. And perhaps next time. I’ll cross into Tavoy.

HOW TO GET THERE

Suan Phung, 270 km or a two-hour drive from Bangkok, is well served by many roads, but it’s recommended visitors take the most scenic route, which runs from Pak Thor to Ban Kha then on Suan Phung. From Bangkok, take Highway 35 to Phetchaburi. Turn right on to Highway 4 for a few kilometres then left into Road 3206. This road connect with 3313 (30 km) then links with 3087 (20 km). Once on Road 3087, you will see Suan Phung Hospital, which in early 2000, made the headlines, when it was seized by a ragtag group of Karen rebels known as God’s Army.

WHERE TO STAY

Suan Phung is not short of chic resorts set against the hills.

Baan Aomkodkunkao
Price range: Bt1,800-Bt6,500
Tel: (032) 711 266
www.BaanAomkodkunkao.com

The Camp Resort
Price range: Bt2,400-Bt5,900
Tel: (02) 617 6188, (083) 059 9009
E-mail: info@thecampresort.com
www.TheCampResort.com

The Scenery Resort
Price range: Bt1,500-Bt4,500
Tel: (081) 000 7070, (02) 886 4013
www.SceneryResort.com

Usawadee Farm Resort
Price range: Bt800-Bt3,500
Call: (032) 711 062, (081) 016 5004
www.Usawadee.com

Nagaya Resort
Price range: Bt2,000-Bt4,900
Tel: (087) 006 0006
www.NagayaResort.com

Phuphaphung Resort
Price range: Bt2,500-Bt12,000
Tel: (081) 409 9600, (087) 168 4070
E-mail: phuphaphung@gmail.com

Baan Suan Palm
Price range: Bt1,000-Bt2,500
Tel: (081) 866 4615, (089) 813 5949
www.BaanSuanPalm.com

WHERE TO EAT

For convenience, most visitors tend to dine at one of the resorts. Phone in advance reception for kitchen closing times and also if arrangements can be made to accommodate any dietary restrictions you may have Usawadee Farm Resort, as with other nearby resorts, offers agreeable meals. For genuine local fare, locals recommend the roadside stall called Muan Khai near Sin Rae School.

Escaping Bangkok by bicycle

By Sirinya Wattanasukchai
The Nation

A trip to Ratchaburi’s Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, temples and orchards further afield makes for an ideal weekend getaway
No matter how often you’ve visited Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, a ramble around the canal network on a bicycle provides a completely different view.

Consider Spice Roads’ 32-kilometre one-day bike trip: During the six-hour ramble, cyclists see fruit orchards, temples and Amphawa Market and get to ride a ferry across the Mae Klong River.

Best of all is the appreciation of nature and the neighbourhood’s unique way of life that slowly unfurls during the morning and afternoon cycling sessions.

From the floating market, riders are transported via long-tail boat to the cycling tour’s starting point. The 20-kilometre morning session takes cyclists to Wat Bang Kae Noi, known for its collection of woodcarvings, and Wat Bang Kung, an old army camp from the 17th century, where a huge banyan tree now grows above a Buddha image. The trip proceeds at a leisurely pace to King Rama II Park before lunch at a riverside restaurant.

The 12-kilometre afternoon session, with fewer stops, pushes deeper into the country. This is a more contemplative ride, bringing cyclists closer to nature.
Riding through pomelo orchards, you will possibly do more than see farmers tending to their trees, fruit and plants.

During my trip, everyone was misted with the pesticide that a farmer was spraying on his trees. One rider joked that mosquitoes will never bite him again. But the misting was light, and how can you stop a farmer from protecting his crop?
The six-hour ride ends at Wat Chotitayakaram – not too short or too long a stretch. For serious bikers, the afternoon session was more interesting for its length.

Stops at temples and markets are brief, usually no more than 15 minutes. Riders regain their breath while the guides launch into brief descriptions of each place.

In addition to easy riding, the distance from Bangkok makes the tour very pleasing. But keep your fingers crossed for good weather. A hot day means dusty roads and a nagging thirst, while a rainy day makes the orchard tracks trickier to navigate.

The “Mae Klong Delta One-Day” tour costs Bt2,000, inclusive of the Bangkok-Damnoen Saduak transfer, lunch, accident insurance, entrance fees, bicycle, helmet, an English-speaking guide and an air-conditioned support vehicle.

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Horizons in Phetchaburi

Just 30 minutes north of Hua Hin, the beaches are empty of people but full of local character

By Manote Tripathi
The Nation
Published on May 3, 2008

Most weekend road warriors tend to avoid the provincial capital of Phetchaburi, sticking to the main north-south highway that grazes the town and sighing with relief as road-hogging buses turn off for a short stopover en route from Bangkok to Hua Hin or other destinations further afield.

Phetchaburi is not even considered a worthy weekend destination, especially as Hua Hin is only another 60 kilometres further down the highway. In many ways, that’s a shame, as this town and its environs have many attractions and the lack of tourists gives it a wonderfully unhurried feel.

Just 123 kilometres from Bangkok, Phetchaburi has managed to retain both bucolic charm and royal grandeur. For variety and distinctiveness, it’s hard to beat, from royal palaces and quiet beaches to a cluster of sleepy fishing villages and home-cooked seafood. For those who have had enough of mega-resorts, it’s an ideal destination for a peaceful weekend retreat.

In fact, the provincial capital served as a mellow haven not just for the Thai elite; members of Siamese royalty were regulars here long before Hua Hin came onto the scene.

Chao Samran beach, a 10-minute drive from the town centre, and the first stretch of sand you see when travelling from Bangkok to southern Thailand, remains relatively empty most weekends. Well-shaded by the tall pine trees that line the beach, it has everything that Hua Hin boasted a century ago.

Forget beach parties or music festivals. Here, beachcombers relax under the trees. At low tide, the beach is as big as a football pitch and early in the morning, locals dig for hoi siab (a type of clam) that they’ll later pickle with garlic. Fishermen haul their catches right on to the shore, landing tons of small shrimps, the raw material for making kapi, or shrimp paste.

It’s a scene that hasn’t changed much since 500 years ago, when King Naresuan of Ayutthaya vacationed here with his future successor King Ekathotsarot. The two kings were said to be so taken with the beach that it was named Chao Samran, meaning “Happy Kings”, or “Had Chao”, as it’s called locally.

King Vajiravudh (Rama VI) liked it so much he had a palace built near the beach in 1918. The environs were later deemed unhealthy, so the royal residence was relocated to a drier and cooler site a few kilometres down the coast at Huai Sai Nua in Cha-am district and renamed Marukhathaiyawan Palace.

Visitors to Chao Samram can find accommodation at the inexpensive bungalows that dot both sides on the road running along the beach, or in Ban Laem, which is home to a cluster of high-end resorts.

You need to rise early to savour the local seafood, which is available at stalls in front of the bungalows and at the market near the only temple in the area. The grilled fresh shrimp and squid are top draws at the market.

For a full-scale inexpensive seafood meal, check out Auntie Chaliew’s near the PTT gas station on 4018, the road that runs from Chao Samran Beach to Cha-Am.
A 15-minute drive will take you to  Marukhathaiyawan Palace, a visual treat that shouldn’t be missed. Also known as “the palace of love and hope”, the residence boasts three clusters of elevated buildings: the front court, the royal suite and the inner court.

Designed by the Italian architect Ercole Manfredi and fusing Thai and European styles, all the buildings in the royal compound comprise a single storey built of golden teak and perch elegantly on a total of 1,080 concrete pillars. They are joined by covered wooden corridors, and the high ceilings and fretwork walls ensure ventilation from the sea breezes.

Although few people lived nearby, not too far from the palace is the residence of the king’s aide, Chaophraya Ramrakop, the design and location of which is well worth seeing, with even the lavatory offering a sea view. The park nearby is a good spot for cycling in the late afternoon.

Next time you have a free week, visit a bygone age with a trip to Phetchaburi.

HOW TO GET THERE

Phetchaburi is less than two hours by car from Bangkok. From Bangkok, take the southbound expressway to Dao Kanong, exit at Phraram Song (Rama II) Road and connect with Highway 4 leading to Phetchaburi and southern provinces.

From Phetchaburi, follow road 3177 to Chao Samran Beach. Road 4018 leads from Chao Samran to other beaches in the province as well as to Auntie Chaliew’s seafood restaurant.

To get to Marukhathaiyawan Palace from Chao Samran, take any road that connects with Highway 4. The Palace is on the Phra Ram Hok (Rama VI) military base.

WHERE TO STAY

Rabiang Talay Resort
Ban Laem
Call (032) 478 445
Price range: Bt600-Bt1,700

Chom Talay Resort
Ban Laem
Call (032) 441 386
Price range: Bt1,200-Bt2,200

Had Chao Hut
Chao Samran Beach
Call (032) 478 421
Price range: Bt600-Bt1,500

Ban Med Sai
Chao Samran Beach
Call (032) 478 011
Price range: Bt500-Bt800

Rabiang Rua Resort
Chao Samran Beach
Call (032) 478 070
www: RabiangRua.com
Price range: Bt2,500-Bt3,500

Sea Sky Beach Resort
Call (032) 478 431-2
www.SeaSkyResort.com
Price range: Bt1,600-Bt5,000

White Beach Resort
Chao Samran Beach
Tel: (032) 478 192, (032) 441 401
Visit: http://www.WhiteBeachResort.com
Price range: Bt1,400-Bt4,700

Puktien Cabana Beach Resort and Residence
Puktien Beach
Tel:  (032) 443 144-5,  (032) 443 126-7, (089) 477 9981
Visit: http://www.PuktienCabana.com
E-mail: contact@puktiencabana.com
Prince range: Bt2,900-Bt6,500

WHERE TO EAT

Paa Chaliew or Auntie Chaliew’s seafood
Between Puk Tien and Cha-Am, with a small PTT gas station at the mouth of the soi
Tel: (032) 448 218, (032) 448 065

Khrua Kai Mook
Chonprathan Road, Cha-am
Tel: (032) 471 870, (032) 430 376

Rabiang Chan
Cha-am, Ruamjit Road
Tel: (032) 471 531, (032) 471 203

Khun Aew
Chao Samran Beach
Tel: (032) 478 142

Khroo Jiew Funny
Chao Samran Beach
Tel: (032) 478 092, (032) 478 433

Khrua Chai Lay
Chao Samran Beach
Tel: (081) 361 8260

Khrua Salee
Chao Samran Beach
(032) 478 600

Paak Khlong
Cha-am, Ruanjit Road
Tel: (032) 472 468, (032) 433 730

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Steeped in tradition

Samut Songkhram, a popular weekend haunt with Bangkok residents, has a rich historical heritage

Vipasai Niyamabha
The Nation

On the weekends, the small evening market by the Mae Klong River in Samut Songkhram throbs with life as tourists from Bangkok bargain for souvenirs and local produce to carry back to the metropolis.

But in the heart of the province, the small lanes and alleyways that zigzag through the fruit orchards are still quiet, too full of twists and turns to attract the boisterous crowds.

Quiet, that is, except for this month, because all over Samut Songkhram fruit growers have been out in the orchards harvesting their mouth-watering bounty.

This annual festival has brought many more visitors into the calm countrywide, whose silence is usually only broken by the tours of firefly watchers.

This is Mae Klong on the verge of change, a time when the influx of tourists comes very close to flooding the tranquil ambience of this rural community.

The pristine reality of the province only reveals itself to visitors who delve a little deeper into the culture of Mae Klong, discovering things more valuable than the eye can see.
It’s no longer simply a matter of when or where to visit. By learning about the place, you go beyond the postcard-perfect images of mass tourism, which in turn allows you to think twice about swelling the ranks of the madding crowds.

Historical heritage

Mae Klong has such a pleasantly pastoral ring to it that some long-time residents would like revert to the days when the province carried the river’s name rather than the more sophisticated title of Samut Songkhram.

They point to the history books, noting that the first recorded reference to Samut Songkhram province appears under the name of “Meklong” in the documents of a French ambassador to Thailand during the reign of King Narai in the Ayutthaya period.
“Maecion”, another rendering of Meklong, appears on many ancient maps, where it marks a small town at the mouth of the river. The name of Mae Klong is also features large in the history of the Chakri dynasty.

Nak, the daughter of a wealthy ethnic Mon family in Mae Klong’s Bang Chang village, was betrothed to the high-born commander Khunluang Yokkrabut of Ratchaburi. The nobleman was later crowned King Rama I, becoming the founder of the Chakri dynasty, and Nak was given the name Somdet Phra Amarintramat.

She gave birth to King Rama II in Mae Klong, who grew up to marry a Mae Klong-born woman named Rod, who became the second queen of the Chakri Dynasty.
Mae Klong is also the birthplace of other famous Thais, among them the world’s first recorded conjoined (or “Siamese”) twins, Chang and Eng Bunker, during the early reign of King Rama II.

Other prominent figures that locals are proud to call their own include Luang Phradit Phairo, a traditional Thai composer who lived during the reign of King Rama VI, and Euea Sunthonsanan, the founder of the Kingdom’s famed Suntraporn Band. Even today the band plays an annual concert in Samut Songkhram to pay homage to the much-loved maestro.

A province of substance

But Samut Songkhram’s charm doesn’t just lie in its ancestry; it permeates the everyday life of the province, too. There’s a strong sense of community, with most people still living on their own land, surrounded by a network of relatives scattered over its three districts of Muang, Amphawa and Bang Khonthi.

The inhabitants are self-sufficient, able to get by if they so wish on the produce from their own or their neighbour’s plots. Thailand’s smallest province also benefits from three separate water resources- seawater, freshwater and brackish water.

Its seaside location means that there’s an abundance of salt farms, and razor clam farms have grown up at Don Hoi Lod, where the fertile ecology is rich witha wide variety of marine creatures. A top-seller is Mae Klong’s delicious mackerel, which is at its best at the end of the year.

Inland, brackish water gives way to fresh, which is perfect for growing a wide range of tropical fruits. The lychee harvest finishes just as the mango season starts. Banana, coconut and pomelo grow all year, as do jack fruit, betel nut and rose apple.
And each time you visit, it’s hard to resist buying dala (torch ginger) flowers and birds of paradise, which seem to be in bloom all year around.

Ask city folk why they are keen to visit Mae Klong and most will say it’s to enjoy the old country ways.

Closer questioning reveals a more specific curiosity — a desire to find out if these country folk look different, less modern than their city cousins, perhaps like those who lived in the orchards on the edge of Bangkok 50 years ago.

The khon Mae Klong, as the residents refer to themselves, certainly look more relaxed. They are also proud — happy to remain a small agricultural community just 70 kilometres away from Bangkok rather than become another industrial suburb like their neighbours.

With the prosperity that the tourist trade has brought them, the khon Mae Klong have reason to smile. Yet many seem bewildered by the changes brought on by the constant influx of visitors.

But whatever happens, the history and geography of the people of this province, long shaped by a traditional way of life, should be well preserved for generations to come.

HOW TO GET THERE

At only 72 kilometres or less than an hour’s drive from Bangkok, Samut Songkhram is well accessed by Road 35. Leave Bangkok by using the Express Way that continues southwards to Dao Khanong and then exiting through Rama II Road that will emerge in Samut Sakhon as Highway 35 (aka Thonburi-Pakthor Road). At the 63 kilometer marker, look out for the hanging green sign that indicates the way to Samut Songkhram. Going to Amphawa, take Road 325 that runs past Mae Klong River and several attractions including Wat Bang Kaphom, Wat Chulamanee, Wat Amphawan and an orchid farm. Many of these spots are located near the river so it’s wise to stick to the two roads that run in parallel with the river.

WHERE TO STAY

Baan Rim Khlong Amphawa
Opposite Wat Amphawan, Amphawa district
Tel: (089) 128 3838, (089) 911 1158
www.BaanRak-Amphawa.com
Price range: Bt700-Bt1,200

Phooyai Chong Homestay
Muang
Tel: (034)731 188, (086) 177 7942
www.PhuyaiChongHomestay.9nha.com
Price range: Bt900-Bt2,000

Klong Khone Mangrove Conservation Centre
Muang
Tel: (086) 177 7942, (089) 746 8803
www.KlongKhoneMangrove.com
Price range: Bt900-Bt1,000

Dee Pradap Homestay
Near Wat Kanchan Charoen, Amphawa
Tel: (087) 170 3011, (087) 170 3404
www.MaeKlongDee.com/DeePradap
Price range: Bt400-Bt1,000

Ploeng Amphawa Resort
Khlong Amphawa Road, Amphawa
Tel: (081) 458 9411
www.PloenAmphawa.com
Price range: Bt1,200-Bt2,400

Baan Rim Naam
Soi Wat Chong Lom, Amphawa
Tel: (081) 880 0083,
http://BaanViewMaenum.BlogSpot.com
Price range: Bt1,500-Bt3,000

Baan Mai Chay Klong
Amphawa
Tel: (081) 856 3990, (086) 571 8488
www.BaanMaiChayKlong.com
Price range: Bt1,200-Bt4,500

WHERE TO EAT

Amphawa Fish Noodles
Bang Khonthi (close to Tao Talthawee)
Tel: (086) 344 7418

Saban-nga
Inside Baan Thay Haad Resort, Amphawa
Tel: (034) 767 220-4

Baan Chom Duen
Samut Songkhram-Bang Phe Road, Amphawa
Tel: (034) 752 200-1

Phoo Yai Boon Dham
Near Krom Luang’s Shrine, Muang
Tel: (034) 723 739

Rim Ao
Wichanwithi Road, Muang
Tel: (034) 711 299, (081) 820 2142

Chang Phuek
One km from King Rama II Park, Amphawa
Tel: (034) 725 414, (032) 725 541

Evening in Amphawa

Among the many floating markets, Samut Songkram’s may be tops for sheer authenticity

Vipasai Niyamabha
The Nation

Only early birds catch the real hustle and bustle of most floating markets, but late risers need not miss out on the experience, with Amphawa’s floating market in Samut Songkram province starting much later in the day – towards the early evening.

The market might not have the traditional appeal of Damnoen Sadouk floating market, but visitors to Amphawa don’t seem to mind, flocking from Bangkok every weekend to reach the floating stalls just an hour before sunset.

Though floating markets were traditionally used by local farmers in central Thailand to sell their produce directly to customers, today tourists overshadow the real customers, arriving by the busload to appreciate the old charm and to immerse themselves in the atmosphere of the markets.

But before dismissing the Amphawa floating market as another tourist trap – or one of the many newly-emerged markets in central Thailand – it should be noted that what makes this market special is that it is actually a revival of the former market here that was a prominent feature of the community 50 years ago. In fact, the marketplace was once one of the major commercial district markets along the Mae Klong river.

In the early Rattanakosin period, Amphawa was celebrated as the birthplace of the King Rama II of Thailand and with a local population of prosperous farmers the area has a long-standing reputation as a wealthy district.

The area also possesses excellent soil that enables the local orchards and plantations to yield produce such as coconuts, pomelo, lychee and mango, all year round. The natural landscape is dotted with beautiful old traditional Thai-style house hidden behind lychee fruit orchards, many set elegantly by the river, side by side, with a suggestion of a particularly spiritual air added by the countless century-old temples.

The Amphawa market itself, sits next to the Amphawa District Office, right by the Mae Klong River. You can also find an array of stalls by the big river along the pedestrian walkway, which eventually leads you out to a canal. A variety of food and goods are available, with local people seeming to enjoy the evening market as much as visitors. In fact you’ll find locals and visitors alike vying for the boat-sellers’ spicy grilled squid and phad Thai, each simple dish costing between Bt10-Bt20.

You can also walk along the riverbank to browse the myriad of delicious morsels being sold from the water. Food can also be ordered to eat on the shore, which is well-equipped with plastic chairs and tables.

As well as investigating the floating wares, visitors can walk across the concrete bridge to the other bank’s strip of beautifully preserved wooden shophouses.

Unlike Damnoen Sadouk’s daily spectacle, Amphawa’s floating market only opens three days a week, from Friday to Sunday, but there’s no need to rush the experience as a number of the traditional Thai houses along both sides of the river also welcome guests to stay overnight due to the area’s other after-hours attraction – firefly watching.

Boat tours for the firefly watching begin at 7pm and usually last around an hour. There are also a few coffee shops by the canal, as well as gift shops selling postcards.

The revival of Amphawa’s market was the brainchild of the local municipality who recognised the potential benefits of the re-opening of the market on the local community here. True to their expectations, the idea is already proving a success with sightseers who come to enjoy the home-stay accommodation and firefly watching in Amphawa.

It might not be exactly the same as stepping back in time, but the authentic appeal of the market is still apparent, with tourists browsing goods and food alongside local people, who also enjoy the sociable atmosphere – whether they are there to trade, or to purchase. And it’s this lively mix and festive atmosphere that has made Amphawa’s newly revived market an attraction in its own right.

April in Amphawa

The fruit on the trees in this Samut Songkhram district is as sweet as the local folk, who host guests in traditional Thai homes

Weeranuch Puttachartsaewee, Nattareewan Sirichantarat
The Nation

A destination too good to put off any longer, Samut Songkhram’s Amphawa district is, in April, a friendly, lush place where the Tha Chin River branches out into an array of lovely streams, along which fruit orchards abound.

April means bowers of ripened fruit, including lychees ready to be picked and pomelos at their sweetest.

The waterways cool you down, chasing off the clamminess of chaotic Bangkok. As you zigzag along, deep into the district’s heart, everyday life seems superb, with most houses surrounded by orchards being harvested.

Even the untrained eye can spot the pomelo and lychee trees, with their exuberant foliage. Running through the district is “Fruit Road”, promising refreshment for the senses and the soul.

The craving is immediate one you see the orchards standing side by side, and if you feel like picking the juicy fruit right from the trees, go ahead and satisfy your thirst.
“We’re all the same – very welcoming,” says Son Jongkolrod, who owns a lychee orchard. “These orchards are all the same. You can stop at any of them.

“We sell the fruit at lower prices, and you can choose as you please. They’re truly fresh, collected right from the tree. Plus, you’re not forced to buy the fruit if you’re not satisfied. If you’re just a passer-by, we don’t mind you picking the odd lychee from the tree.”
Lychee flavour varies according to the species. Samut Songkhram is home to a distinctively sweet variation with small pits. Anywhere you go in the province, you can be sure of finding one of the best examples of the famed lychee.

The local pomelos, meanwhile, add to the area’s reputation with their succulence. They’re seedless and fairly sweet, and of course the prices are low.

Beyond Fruit Road, though, there’s another orchard-lined thoroughfare – the Amoravadi-Wat Kaew Charoen road just nearby.

Here Mae Wanpen orchard is easily spotted, and visitors will enjoy the rustic perks on offer. It has a little thatched-roof eatery, where owner Kanisorn Klumjeen sits down to chat.

“The visitors seem satisfied with the value they get with our fresh fruit, at prices lower than they pay at the markets,” she says, adding that they’re also happy to discover her recipes for fruity concoctions.

Kanisorn’s geniality is common hereabouts. Everyone seems to treat one another like a beloved sibling, making you feel like you’re reuniting with the family.
And that friendliness makes Amphawa the perfect place for home-stay accommodations.

A traditional Thai house at Mae Thong Yip home-stay village is a good example.
It’s ideal for experiencing the rural way of life.

Mae Thong Yib is the head of the village, where 12 traditional homes on both sides of Mae Klong River welcome casual guests. It gives foreigners and passing Thais the chance to interact with the locals.

Naturally, the host families make you feel right at home, and the surroundings, not to mention the delicious meals they serve, make the Bt350-a-night fare well worth it.
Home-staying in Amphawa is probably the best place to observe the way of life on the river, where people sell goods from their boats and the children play in the water.
In the early morning the monks paddle past in small craft receiving food from the residents.

Your hosts will be glad to show you how to make the local desserts, spicy dipping sauces and unique items crafted from lychee stems.

Take a boat out yourself for a paddle, or if you’re truly keen to get involved, ask to help with the farming. Then, of course, there’s always the fruit picking.

The evenings bring a small marvel: watching the fireflies among the dense Lumpoo forests along Klong Pee Lok – “haunted canal”.

Once the sun has left the sky, the tiny insects have only the moon for competition as they silently shed their dim light on the world.

It can be a romantic experience, despite the canal’s spooky name.
The unrivalled beauty of the surroundings guarantees a good night’s sleep – and promises an early rise amid the morning dew on the lychee leaves.

For more information about Mae Thong Yip homestays, call (034) 735 073, or the Samut Songkhram Provincial Office at (034) 711 997.

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Finding a Coxawain

Samut Sakhon may be chaotic, but there’s plenty of history, canalside charms and seafood to engage visitors.

Manote Tripathi
THE NATION

A seaport that 140 years ago was a base for the British operators of the country’s largest sugar factory, Samut Sakhon is now known for its salt farms, seafood factories and hardworking Burmese labourers.Yet the province really owes its fame to just one man, Phan Thai Norasingh, a royal oarsman. In 1704, while trying to manoeuvre the royal barge, the Ekachai, through a 90-degree turn on the Khok Kham canal, Norasingh collided with a large tree.

The king, Phra Chao Sua, who was onboard for a private fishing trip to the mouth of Tha Chin river, did not complain as no one was hurt. But putting the king’s life on the line was punishable by death, so the oarsman proposed his own execution on the spot. Impressed with his honesty, the monarch refused.

But Norasingh insisted upon an actual beheading, so the king complied and had a shrine built in his honour on the river’s bank. He also ordered the digging of a new canal – Khlong Mahachai – to eliminate the sharp bends of Khok Kham.

Just 36 kilometres from Bangkok’s southern suburbs, Samut Sakhon – still known to many by its old name of Mahachai – is not usually considered a must-see destination, though it’s long been popular with seafood lovers in search of gourmet dinners at reasonable prices.

With factories everywhere, a haphazard network of poorly maintained roads and a city that’s grown without proper planning, Samut Sakhon is chaos at its most animated, so do take a map. Shrines to the legendary oarsman can be found in several different spots, making it difficult to identify the original, so most interested visitors end up going to them all. Many locals point to the wooden shrine at Wat Khok Kham, one of the oldest temples in the area, which also sports the remnants of an old hardwood boat salvaged from the canal. While the temple is by one of the sharpest bends in the canal, there’s no proof that this is where the accident happened.

Across the canal another spirit shrine to the oarsman beckons. And 10 km further on, near Wat San Phan Thai Norasingh, is the third and most popular. When you’re tired of chasing down the oarsman, Tha Chalom pier is a good place to chill. From Bangkok, follow Highway 35 and cross the Tha Chin river. Not far from the bridge, you’ll see a Caltex petrol station on the left and next to it, the road leading to the pier and the Maha Chai Natural Mangrove Centre. The two-lane road is poorly maintained and the going is slow, especially at weekends, when markets spring up around the temples. Carry on past Wat Chong Lom and head for the Clock Tower roundabout. Find somewhere to park and walk to the pier, taking time to admire the old houses and the magnificent view across the river.

While the drive from Tha Chalom to the mangrove centre is not a pleasant one, the journey is worth it. Take the same road, turn left at Wat Chonglom and drive along the road that runs beside the river
(see map). A few minutes later, you will find yourself in another land, with signs in Burmese and pedestrians clad in sarongs, their faces smeared with yellow talcum powder. Spare a thought for these Burmese labourers, many of them illegal, who’ve spend months at sea on Thai fishing trawlers or long hours toiling for less than Bt100 a day in seafood factories. On both sides of the road are rows of shabby three-storey concrete houses occupied by the labourers. The shantytown becomes denser and denser before finally thinning out into a scattering of fishing villages set against the vast ocean. The road comes to an end at the mangrove centre, which backs on to a lush mangrove forest that seems to stretch on forever. It’s not particularly scenic but it speaks volumes about the ecological state of Samut Sakhon.

As I stop the car at the end of the road, the motorcyclist who’s been following me for the last few kilometres approaches. At first, I think he’s going to ask if we need directions but it turns out he wants money to buy petrol. Perhaps not many tourists pass through this area. And in this rundown fishing community, anyone who seems lost is fair game. To be on the safe side, don’t set out to find the mangrove centre late in the afternoon. If night falls, you could have a different kind of adventure on your hands.

HOW TO GET THERE

Samut Sakhon is well served by Highway 35, which crosses the Tha
Chin river when it reaches the town. Take road 3242 off the highway to
get to the oarsman’s shrine. Then turn left into road 3423, which runs
straight for a couple of kilometres before becoming parallel to Klong
Pittayalongkorn. Turn left at Wat Sahakorn Kositara, continue past
Ban San Dap School to Wat Khok Kham and the nearby Phan Thai
Norasingh’s shrine.

Khok Kham canal is a stone’s throw from the temple. Across the bridge is another shrine. Going in the opposite direction on the same road for 10 kilometres, and you will see Wat San Phan Thai Norasingh and the major
shrine to the oarsman.

For Tha Chalom pier and Maha Chai Natural Mangrove Centre, take
Highway 35, then cross the bridge over the Tha Chin river. Turn left at
Caltex petrol station and continue along the road to the Clock Tower
roundabout. For the Mangrove Centre, follow the road back towards town, turning left at Wat Chong Lom and running parallel with the rivers past Wat
Bang Ya Phraek, the slums housing the Burmese workers and fishing
villagers. The mangrove centre is at the end of the road next to the mangrove forest on shore.

WHERE TO STAY

Le Chalet Resort
Road 35, Muang district
Tel: (02) 633 8067
Price range: Bt1,000-Bt1,500

New Friend Hotel
Ekachai Road, Muang district
Tel: (034) 423 453-4
Price range: Bt370-Bt400

Mosman Inn
Setthakij Road, Muang district
Tel: (034) 830210-2
Price range: Bt390-Bt650

Central Place
Ekachai Road, Muang district
Tel: (034) 412 816-9 , (034) 422 971-3
Visit:  http://www.CentralPlaceHotel.com
Price range: Bt1,000-Bt1,200

Ban Dhammachart Kung Nam Resort
Near Ban Phaeo intersection, Muang district
Tel:  (034) 839 261, (089) 117 5312
Visit:  http://www.BanKungNam.com
Price range: Bt1,000-Bt1,400

Sri Siam
Setthakij Road, Muang district
Tel: (034) 471 065, (034) 471 886
Price range: Bt250-Bt300

Homestay Moobaan
Tha Sao Phatthana Road, Krathum Baen district
Tel: (034) 473 408
Price range: Bt600-Bt900

WHERE TO EAT

Duang Dao Restaurant
Tambol Nakhok, Muang district
Tel: (081) 942 0583,

Suan Aharn Rim Naam
Derm Bang Road, Tambol
Mahachai
Tel: (034) 425 710

Tha Rue Pattakarn
Setthakij 1 Road, Mahachai Pier
Tel: (034) 411 084

New Rot Tip
Soi Seeyake Super, Setthakij 1
Road, Muang district
Tel: (034) 411-900

Thalay Chan
Sahakorn Road, Muang district
Tel: (034) 857 491

Mak Mai Chai Lain
Tambon Kalong, Muang district
Tel: (087) 750 8223

Lom Thalay
Tambon Ban Bo, Muang district
Tel: (034) 845 252, (081) 820 0618

Rabiang Nam
Tambon Khok Kham, Muang district
Tel: (034) 657 685

Khrua Chom Ao
Ya Phraek, Muang district

Tel: (034) 422 997, (034) 818 331

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Paradise off the beaten track

Trat’s unspoiled beaches are perfect for a weekend far from the madding crowd

Manote Tripathi
The Nation

Hordes of tourists arrive in Trat every month but very few linger more than an hour or two on the mainland of Thailand’s easternmost province, instead hurrying through to catch the ferries that sail regularly to Koh Chang or Koh Kood.

They are missing out: Mainland Trat with its kilometres of unspoiled, sandy palm-shaded beaches, vibrant fishing villages and abundant home-cooked seafood is ideal for anyone looking for a quiet weekend getaway.

Unlike Koh Chang, many of the province’s beaches remain largely undeveloped. Some are covered by willows, others flanked by forests, and several can only be accessed only by dirt tracks, so are clean, quiet and attractive.

Running along “the elephant’s trunk” - the narrow strip of land that protrudes from downtown Trat and leads up to the border with Cambodia - these beaches have been immune from the tourist waves for years. So a short holiday here guarantees both discovery and serendipity - provided you’re willing to go off the beaten track.

Trat is just 315 kilometres from Bangkok and on the fast, open road, it takes slightly more than two hours. Trat, or Krat as it used to be known, is a very old province, first mentioned in a historical account written during the reign of King Naresuan of Ayutthaya, when it was under the control of his foreign ministry. The province also served as a key military base for King Taksin after the fall of Ayutthaya following the 1767 Burmese attack. In 1904, Trat came under French rule following a skirmish with the French navy over the colonialist’s demand for Siam’s vassal provinces on the eastern side of the Mekong. The colonial-style, two-storey wooden structure of the French governor’s residence still stands in downtown Trat and today serves as the Department of Corrections office.

Given its colourful past, it’s perhaps not surprising that the province is home to a rainbow of races, with sizeable Chinese, Vietnamese and Cambodian communities.

The Khmer language plays a prominent role in both the cultural and commercial life, in part because the province, which is next door to Cambodia’s Koh Kong, has often played host to Cambodian refugees.

Villagers living along the beaches between downtown Trat and the last district in the east, Khlong Yai, speak Khmer as a second language. Even police at checkpoints on the road to the border town of Khlong Yai will often answer in Khmer!
The best beaches lie on the road connecting Trat town with Ban Had Lek, the easternmost village in Khlong Yai district. They are all pristine, but for beauty and convenience, check out Muk Kaew, which is one of the few accessible by an asphalt road. Mid-range accommodation is available at Muk Kaew Resort, along with mouth-watering seafood and eye-smacking views.

A good day at Muk Kaew starts with a swim in the sea followed by a great seafood lunch. In the afternoon, rest in the shade of pine trees before relaxing as night falls with your favourite cocktail. On sunny days, the grey formidable mass of Koh Chang can be seen on the horizon.

You should also make time to explore some of the oldest fishing villages in Trat, especially those fringed by Ratchakarun, Ban Chuen and Tanuek beaches. Ratchakarun beach boasts the Thai Red Cross Society’s Khao Lan museum, which offers an interesting snapshot of life in the refugee camp. And Ban Chuen beach is positively breathtaking.

From Ban Chuen, drive along the seafront to Tanuek beach, home to some of the more stylish resorts in the area. Stroll along the beach at sunset and stay overnight. If you want curried soft-shell crab, rise early, and buy fresh seafood directly from the small boats that sail between villages selling the catch of the night before. And there you have it.

With such tranquil beaches and tasty seafood, Trat remains a surprisingly well-kept secret.

HOW TO GET THERE

A four hours’ drive from Bangkok, Trat is well served by Highway 3 (Bangna-Trat Road). Leave Bangkok through the Bangkok-Chon Buri Motorway (Road 7) or Highway 3. In Chon Buri’s Ban Bung, turn left into Road 344 for a short cut to Rayong’s Klaeng district where it connects with Highway 3. Continue on the highway that runs past Chanthaburi on its way to the heart of Trat and then turn left into Road 318 (Trat-Khlong Yai Road) for the journey to the multitude of empty beaches in Khlong Yai.

WHERE TO STAY

Haad Mook Kaew Resort
Trat-Khlong Yai Road (km 41.5)
Tel: (039) 511 777, (081) 559 1022
http://www.HaadMookKaew.com
Price range: Bt1,090-Bt5,000

Barn Talaepu Resort
Trat-Khlong Yai Road (km 69)
Tel: (039) 581 721-2
www.BarnTalaepuResort.com
Price range: Bt1,500-Bt12,000

Mai Rood Resort
Trat-Khlong Yai Road (km 56)
Tel:(039) 691 119, (081) 758 1392
http://www.mairood-resort.com
Price range: Bt300-Bt3,500

Ban Lae Resort
Trat-Khlong Yai Road (km 63)
Tel: (089) 938 1716,(039) 581 127 ,(039) 511 348
www.geocities.com/banlae_trat
Price range: Bt2,000-Bt3,000

Ya Taa Resort
Khlong Yai
Tel: (039) 581 499, (081) 565 7187
Price range: Bt1,000-Bt3,800

Baan Tak Arkard
Trat-Khlong Yai Road (km 67)
Tel: (039) 581 295, (039) 581 909
www.takarkard.com
Price range: Bt1,500-Bt6,000

Chan Chon Resort
Mai Rood Beach, Khlong Yai
Tel: (039) 581 173, (039) 581 889
Price range: Bt800-Bt4,500

Ratchakaroon Centre (The Thai Red Cross Society)
Trat-Khlong Yai Road (km 48)
Tel: (039) 521 621, (039) 521 624
www.redcross.or.th/khaolan
Price range: Bt700-Bt6,000

Haad Son Resort
Khlong Yai
Tel: (039) 581 882-3
Price range: Bt700-Bt6,000

Baan Chuen Resort
Trat-Khlong Yai Road (km 60)
Tel: (039)383 749
Price range: Bt600-Bt1,000

WHERE TO EAT

Haad Muk Kaew Restaurant
Muk Kaew Beach, Klong Yai
Tel: (039) 511 777, (081) 559 1022

Sang Fah
Sukhumvit Road, Muang district
Tel: (039) 511 222, (039 523 373-4

Suan Pu
Muang
Tel: (039) 512 400, (039) 542 355

Rom Yen
Muang
Tel: (039) 511 975

Sang Chan
Laem Ngop district
Tel: (039) 597 198-99

Rim Thalay
Laem Ngop
Tel: (039) 597 084

Rim Sapan
Lael Ngop
Tel: (039) 597 194

Khrua Dan Kao
Muang district
Tel: (039) 522 955-6

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Full of Eastern promise

Published on May 17, 2008

An easy hour’s motoring from Bangkok, Bang Saen and Koh Sichang are ideal destinations for a weekend escape

Manote Tripathi
The Nation
Nationphotos

Less than two decades ago, visitors had very mixed feelings about Chon Buri. The province had a reputation for being home to “camps” of hit men kept by local politicians as well as to mafia types rumoured to be laundering money through property development and tourism.

Back then Bang Saen beach, some 13 kilometres from Chon Buri town, was an eyesore, with tents and umbrellas pitched all along the badly kept and dirty stretch of powdery sand.

Today, there’s a sense of orderliness. The resort has been renovated and it’s cleaner and much safer. The umbrellas are still there but there are fewer of them and they’re better organised. The beachside road is wider and cleaner too, with more shade and plenty of greenery.

Less than an hour by car from Bangkok, Bang Saen is a popular destination with Thai families. Whether day-tripping or spending a weekend, these visitors make for the umbrellas and, as eating is an integral part of a Thai beach holiday, place their orders for som tam and grilled chicken from nearby stalls.

Bang Saen offers a great view of the sunset over the Gulf of Thailand and there’s no better place to enjoy it with a significant other than from Laem Tan, an attractive piazza with a pavilion and a scattering of benches. On balmy afternoons, Laem Tan can resemble a mini motor show, with the members of such trendy auto clubs as the Mini Cooper club driving in to hold their meetings.

Laem Tan is also home to several food stalls offering inexpensive fresh seafood, and many visitors stay on in the evening to savour the local fare, not at tables but on mats spread on the pavement.

An alternative is to drive to nearby Khao Sam Muk with its characteristic white fence, park in the lay-by and take a stroll up the hill to admire the golden sea before sunset and peer down at the monkeys below, who’ll be eyeing your car expectantly for any food you may have left inside.

A short drive away is Ang Sila, which is renowned for its sprawling fishing villages as well as for its mortars and pestles. Ang Sila is one of the oldest seaside resorts in this part of Thailand and was favoured by King Rama V.

Unless there’s a pressing need to return to Bangkok, stay overnight in one of Bang Saen’s fine hotels, and discover more of Chon Buri’s attractions the following day.
Less than a 30-minute drive is Sri Racha, the gateway to Koh Sichang, a small island just 12km offshore. Leave the car in one of the car parks in the town and catch one of the ferries that depart every 40 minutes on a 45-minute cruise to the island.

Si Chang is a sprawling hilly island with a winding road that’s mostly empty, and perfect for cycling. Bring your own mountain bike and feel the freedom of the open road as it rises and dips through the hills, or rent a motorbike.

There are a few beaches to enjoy, the nicest of which is Tham Khao Phang on the west of the island, which boasts a long stretch of sand and an inviting calm sea that’s ideal for splashing about.

A favourite destination is King Rama V’s summer palace, a cluster of teakwood houses with its own beach called Tha Wang. The view is breathtaking and the monarch’s preference for European landscaping is reflected in the garden, which is still well maintained.

Chong Khao Khad, on the south of the island, is a popular place for admiring the sunset; below it is the beach where the king used to watch this marvellous sight himself.

And after a day on the island, you’ll be relieved that Bangkok is just an hour away.

HOW TO GET THERE

From Bangkok, use the Bangkok-Chon Buri motorway (No 7), or Bangna-Trat Highway (Highway 34).

WHERE TO STAY

The Tide Resort
Tel: (038) 399 222
Price range: Bt1,900-Bt2,500

Bang Saen Royal Beach Condo
Tel: (038) 383 550
Price range: Bt600-Bt1,200

Bang Saen Villa
Tel: (038) 382 088
Price range: Bt980-Bt3,200

Bang Saen Beach Resort
Tel: (038) 381 628-9
Price range: Bt500-Bt2,500

WHERE TO DINE

Pakarang
Bang Saen 1 Road
Tel: (038) 383 331

Ban Thalay
Ang Sila
Tel: (038) 397 441

Wang Muk
Sam Muk Road
Tel: (038) 384 021

Ban Khun Yaa
Bang Saen 1 Road
Tel: (038) 383 027

Chai Thalay Bang Phra
Laem Tan
Tel: 038 341 964

Fah Thalay
Laem Tan
Tel: 081 761 6781, 081 996 1123

Discovering Nemo’s world

Undersea World Pattaya lets you get to know the marine creatures personally - diving tanks await

Weeranuch Puttachartsaewee,
Nattareewan Sirichantarat
The Nation

Since Underwater World Pattaya (UWP) opened in 2003, it has been a favourite destination for “kids of all ages”. Where else can you take a fabulous voyage to the bottom of the sea without getting wet?
Today, visitors to the most modern aquarium in Asia can do more than just watch shoals of fish through acrylic windows in 100-metre-long tunnels. Now they too can take the plunge and dive to the deep in Underwater World’s “Edutainment Theme Park”.

Two tanks are open for the diving sessions. The coral reef tank, in which you can touch the colourful creatures like tiny marine fish, is open to anyone wishing to skindive. For more excitement, plunge into the shark and ray tank and feed the powerful predators that prowl the ocean depths. This section is reserved for divers holding an Open Water certificate.

“It’s not just the divers that will have a good time but also the spectators. Parents will love looking at their kids feeding the fish,” says general manager David Hong,
The shipwreck tank in the final zone will also delight. A powerful picture of the wrecks is now provided showing how the sea has become a perfect habitat for marine life.

For those wanting to get up close and cosy with the fish but not in the mood to dive, the Touch Pool in front of the tunnels is full of friendly and healthy species.

The Underwater World Pattaya is home to more than 4,500 forms of marine life classified into 200-plus species. The long-fin banner fish is the symbol of UWP. This sociable colourful fish is easily found in coral reefs lying in the depths of the sea.

Plates explaining the biology of each species are provided with the aim of educating visitors about more than just physical appearance.

One regular visitor is actress Daraneenuch Pothipiti, who loves taking her children along. “Activities at Underwater World not only support our close family relationship, but also help my children to learn. Nature teaches them outside the classroom and awareness of the ecosystem is planted in their minds while they’re having fun.”
All precautions are taken to avoid harm coming to visitors. Hong affirms that the thick acrylic windows along the tunnels are built for safety and durability. As for the diving activities, visitors can appreciate the beauty of marine nature under the guidance of UWP’s chaperones. The number of people participating is limited to make sure that it is safe for both for the visitors and the fish.

Underwater World Pattaya is open daily from 9 am to 6 pm. Special family rates are available during the summer season. For more information, call (038) 756 879.

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Simple seaside charms

Manote Tripathi discovers Chanthaburi is rich with natural and cultural attractions

Manote Tripathi
The Nation

A weekend trip to Chanthaburi province brings back memories of the birth of Bangkok, the secret shipyard of King Taksin and the Thai-Chinese efforts to defeat the invading Burmese and regain Siam’s sovereignty. Add the French, and Chanthaburi comes across as not just a historical military base, but as the battleground for anti-colonial struggles.

People in history may have sailed to this province, but modern-day Chanthaburi – 250 kilometres from Bangkok or just a two hours’ drive – is better appreciated by driving, with its colourful past, breathtaking seaside views, abundant tropical fruits, gems and ageing fishing villages. For Thais, Chanthaburi is a worthy stopover for lunch on their way to Trat’s Koh Chang. It’s also an attractive destination in its own right for day-trippers.

A good grasp of the province’s history will add to the enjoyable experience of appreciating its historical attractions and its natural beauty. Not many Thais know that the province used to be ruled by the French for over a decade before Siam decided to cede its vassal cities to the east of the Mekong River to France. When the French left in 1904, they also left behind a legacy in the form of gothic churches, prisons and military buildings, which still stand to this day.

But it’s the province’s link with King Taksin of Thon Buri that raised its significance. After the second fall of Ayutthaya to the Burmese in 1767, Siam was in disarray. It was King Taksin who plotted Siam’s flight to freedom, and he did it in Chanthaburi because the city was home to Tae Chiew Chinese, who joined the army of the king, who had Chinese blood.

There’s no better way to trace King Taksin’s route to Siamese freedom than a visit to King Taksin’s Shipyard. It’s difficult getting there because it’s tucked away in one of the many quiet beaches in Laem Sing. But there are signs that will help make navigating more possible. Once there, any visitor is likely to feel completely relaxed as the wind keeps blowing. The shipyard is at one end of the wide open beach that looks like a crescent with both arms reaching out to embrace the sea ahead. There are not many people there because the place is quite hard to access. Once there one is likely to encounter a few locals fishing.

The best time to visit is early afternoon because visitors will have the chance to lunch at the only restaurant there that offers great seafood including fish cake and ranging thick and clear soups with types of fish to choose from the menu.

The shipyard exudes an air of solemnity. This very shipyard was where most of the king’s fleet were built here and used to transport his troops to fight the Burmese and reclaim Siam’s sovereignty. The king’s journey to Siam’s freedom started at this very point.

Most of the king’s vessels are gone – all that is left are a few old boats uncovered in the shipyard and from the seabed. There’s a new, nearby museum that offers a glimpse into the mission of the king and his eventful life. On display in are a collection of Chinese and Thai pottery dating to the time of King Taksin. These artefacts confirm that Chanthaburi was home to Chinese merchants bringing their wares to the province. But the Chinese ceramics found here are of low quality with plain simple motifs. For some Thais, the trip offers an opportunity to pay respect to the king still largely registered in the Thai psyche.

For a glimpse of the French remnants, a visit to Ki Gai Prison and Tuek Dang or Red Building reveals an important chapter in Thai history. The two places well illustrate the French aggression at the height of colonialism in the 19th century: they ruled Chanthaburi from 1893 to 1904, while forcing Siam into ceding the land on the east side of the Mekong river.

Built by the French in 1893, Ki Gai (Chicken Droppings) Prison jailed people of various nationalities including Vietnamese, Chinese and Thai. Life in the prison was appalling: chicken were raised on the top floor so that their droppings fell down on the inmates below. The Red Building reminds visitors of how the French generals lived their lives in this command post.

For a change of scenery, head to one of Chanthaburi’s many beaches. There’s nothing that can beat Kung Wiman beach in terms of beauty and scenery. Kung Wiman with its reddish sand has perhaps the most beautiful seaside road in the country that winds its way along the ledge of a cliff.

Another beach worth sampling is Chao Lao beach, which stretches all the way to Kung Kraben Bay. You can swim at the beach, or explore nature in the nearby hill which boasts a good vantage point from which to see the vast blue sea. You might find a crowd here as it’s a popular beach lined with stalls and restaurants offering excellent fresh seafood at reasonable prices.

If what you’re looking for is a white sandy beach with some shade, then head to Laem Sadet Beach, which is three kilometres long and lined with pine trees. For a nice splash in the sea, consider visiting Laem Sing beach, which is better known for its top seafood restaurants, clean and clear water quality, and long beach with pine trees.

Aside from the fun of exploring Chanthaburi’s heritage, get a tasty experience of the province by savouring its range of tropical fruit and seafood. Enjoy!

HOW TO GET THERE

A two hours’ drive from Bangkok, Chanthaburi is accessed by Highway 3 (Bang Na-Trat Road). From Bangkok, take the Bangkok-Chon Buri Motorway and exit at Ban Bung. Follow Road 344 that leads to Klaeng, Rayong. In Klaeng, turn left onto Highway 3 and you’ll get to Chanthaburi in about 30 minutes. Kung Wiman Beach is on Road 3399 that also leads to other notable beaches. The easiest way to find attractions in Chanthaburi is by following four-digit provincial road numbers. Make sure that the number of the road you’re travelling on matches up with the one on your map.

WHERE TO STAY

Faasai Resort and Spa
Kung Wiman Beach
Tel: (039) 417 404
www.FaaSai.com
Price range: Bt1,700-Bt3,900

Al Medina Beach House
Kung Wiman Beach
Tel: (085) 334 3555 (085) 155 3333
www.AlMedinaBeach.com
Price range: Bt3,600-Bt6,930

Baan Toom Resort
Chao Lao Beach, Tha Mai district
(039) 388 063
Price range: Bt2,500-Bt8,500

Maldives Beach Resort
Laem Sadet Beach
Tel: (039) 369 100
www.MaldivesBeachResort.net
Price range: Bt1,400-Bt5,500

Calibou Highland Hotel
Tedsabanpattana Road, Muang District
Tel: (039) 323 431-5
www.Calibou-Hotel.com
Price range: Bt990-Bt4,000

KP Grand Hotel
Trirat Road, Muang
Tel: (039) 323 201-10
Price range: Bt1,800-Bt5,000
www.KPGrandHotel.com

Rim Green Hotel
Rambhai Barni Rajabhat University, Ruksakchamun Road, Muang
Tel: (039) 471 050, (039) 471 681
www.rbru.ac.th/department/RimGreen/exroom
Price range: Bt540-Bt2,000

New Travel Beach Chao Lao Hotel & Resort
Chao Lao Beach
Tel: 039-388-081-6 Fax: 039-388-087
www.NewTravelBeach.com/NewTravelBeach/index.htm
Price range: Bt1,400-Bt4,000

Ban Haad Pakarang
Chao Lao Beach
Tel: (039) 369 073
Price range: Bt1,500-Bt3,000

WHERE TO EAT

Por Sor 2462 Borneo Bar
Trirat Road, Muang
Tel: 081 687 7784

Poo Ja Seafood
Tha Chalap Road, Muang
Tel: (039) 391 129

Chanthara Pochana
Benjamarachoothit Road, Muang
Tel: 039-312-339, 039-302350

Pan Jim Restaurant
Maharaj Road, Muang
Tel: (039) 332 270

Ratree Restaurant
Sai Tha Chalap Road, Muang
Tel: (039) 311 628, (081) 870 4450

Nongyao Seafood
Laem Sing Beach
Tel: (086) 849 6794, (039) 399 048

Rim Naam Chan Muang
Tha Chalap Road, Muang
Tel: (039) 312 409, (039) 322 425

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A river runs through it

Chachoengsao, a quiet province just outside Bangkok, will delight anyone looking for green fields, traditional markets and unusual snacks

By Manote Tripathi
The Nation

A few minutes from Bangkok’s eastern suburbs lie sprawling paddy fields, fish farms, rural villages and numerous roadside stalls selling a weird but surprisingly tasty snack - grilled noo naa (mice), the major pest of rice paddies.

A mere 83 kilometres from downtown Bangkok, and just 30 minutes from Suvarnabhumi Airport, Chachoengsao province, which lies on the banks of the Bang Pakong River, has many hidden gems just waiting to be discovered.

Chachoengsao, which thrives on its fertile land and aquatic culture, is crisscrossed with a labyrinthine network of canals and carpeted with rice paddies that seem to be green all year round.

A must-visit is talad Klong Suan Roi Pee, the traditional market on the banks of Prawetburirom Canal that’s being going for more than a century. Spread over Samut Prakhan and Chachoengsao, it’s a stone’s throw from Suvarnabhumi Airport. From Bangkok, just follow Onnut Road (Sukhumvit Soi 77) through Lat Krabang (it eventually becomes known as Lat Krabang Road - Road 3001) straight to Klong Suan, where it connects with Road 314.

The 27km section of Road 3001 between Klong Suan and Lat Krabang’s Hua Ta Kae market runs past the residence of former Prime Minister Surayud Chulanont, the Royal Golf Course, acres of paddy fields and Bang Bo’s numerous pla salid fish ponds.

A century ago, the people of Klong Suan went to the capital to chill out or trade by way of Klong Prawetburirom, which was dug during the fifth reign. It took them half a day to paddle upstream to Lat Krabang, even longer to reach Phra Kanong. That is like paddling from Venice to the Lido. But these villagers are themselves sons of the canals that lead to other far-flung destinations like the Gulf of Thailand.

Today, Bangkokians come to Klong Suan for its market, which runs in a straight line along the banks and sports rows of two-storey wooden shophouses selling old-style Thai coffee and tea, noodles, plastic and rare tin toys, Thai sweetmeats, chicken and duck soups, kitchen utensils and bamboo fishing accessories.

After shopping, drive to downtown Chachoengsao to take in the view from the Bang Pakong River.

Follow Road 314, turn right at Chachoengsao Railway Station then head for the bridge, from where you get a panoramic view of the city that lies ahead, and the golden spires of Wat Sothon Wararam Worawihan, another must-see landmark.

Built in the late Ayutthaya period, Wat Sothon boasts a Bt2.5-billion prayer chapel that houses the highly revered, 200-year-old seated Buddha image called Luang Phor Buddha Sothon, believed to have been installed here during the Thonburi period.

After a temple tour, relax in downtown Chachoengsao on the vast promenade that runs along the river bank near Chachoengsao Hospital.

If you’re tired of driving, why not see the sights from the water? Boats depart regularly from the piers near Tambon Tha Kham Municipal Office at the mouth of Bang Pakong River. The road that leads to this office is off Bangna-Trat Highway near the Bang Pakong Bridge.

From November to January, the boat will take you to see dolphins in the Gulf of Thailand, while the rest of the year, you can admire the sunset or disembark at one of the seafood restaurants that line the riverbank. Enjoy!

HOW TO GET THERE

Chachoensao is accessible from Bangna-Trat Highway to the south, and Highway 304 to the north.

However, to take advantage of the province’s rustic charms, take Road 3001 (Lat Krabang Road) to Klong Suan Market then connect with Road 314 in Chachoengsao. Once in Klong Suan, head to downtown by following 3001 until it meets 314. Turn right into 304 and follow the road until your reach the main railway station. To get to Wat Sothon, take Si Sothon Road off Highway 304 and drive along the bank of Bang Pakong River. From Wat Sothon, head southwards on Road 314, which links with Bangna-Trat Highway (No 34), to get to the mouth of Bang Pakong river for boating, dolphin spotting and sunset tours.

WHERE TO STAY

Wangtara Hotel and Resort
Tel: (038) 822 239-40, (038) 512 565-9
Price range: Bt1,000-Bt3,500

Grand Royal Plaza
Tel: (038) 823 701
Price range: Bt500-Bt1,200

Baan Pla Loma
Tel: (038) 574 318, (02) 734 9583
Visit: www.BaanPlaLoma.com
Price range: Bt1,000

WHERE TO EAT

Khon Mai
Sukoprayoon Road, Tambon Tha Kham, Bang Khla district
Tel: (089) 138 9516

Little Pizza – Steak
Suan Somdej Road, Muang District
Tel: (038) 511 869, (081) 588 6381

Mathurot Ruen Phae
Near Chachoengsao Hospital, Muang District

Kua Kool Photchana
Kua Kool Road, Muang District
Tel: (038) 511 425

Bygone beauty

A well-preserved market recalls Thailand of bygone days

Thomtong Tongnok
The Nation

Ban Mai riverside market in Chachoengsao province is a perfect example of the “sufficiency economy” mentioned by His Majesty the King on his birthday this week.
The local community has kept the century-old Sino-Thai market alive not just to preserve the architecture of bygone days, but also to underscore their pride in this special place.

The sun filters through the high-ceiling teakwood roofs of these shuttered structures built during the reign of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) giving a glow that is very different from the cold fluorescent lighting found in today’s supermarkets.

This idyllic beauty not only attracts tourists but also filmmakers - part of blockbuster “Nang Nak was shot here - which has caused many locals to refer to their community as the Hollywood of Thailand.

The aroma of food lures me to an old restaurant where firewood is still the fuel of choice. Watching three women cooking in front of the old style stove invokes memories of the good old days. Local people come to the place for noodles. If you want to try a local dish, they are more than happy to willing to whip up special orders.

And it’s true what the elders say - food really does taste better when it’s cooked with firewood rather than gas!
Boon Eua, which sells preserved fruits, is one of the most famous shops in this market. Unfortunately, by the time of my visit in the later afternoon, they had already sold out. To see the colourful display, go before noon.

You can cool off with an old-fashioned lord-chong (green pandanstring served in syrup) or durian flavoured ice cream for Bt10 a pop or relax over sweets and a hot drink Hia Khun, where groups of older people gather for conversation. There’s no espresso or latte, just Thai style tea.

Children won’t find any hi-tech toys at the market, but parents will enjoy harking back to their young days by playing with yoyos and rubber soldiers.

At just slightly more than an hour’s drive from Bangkok, Ban Mai is a great way of switching off, chilling out and going back to a time when life moved in the slow lane.

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Lazy days in Rayong

Cruise along the coastline and be amazed at the lovely  – and usually empty  – beaches. But go soon  – the developers are catching on

Vipasai Niyamabha
Special to The Nation

Rayong is only two hours from Bangkok, and that includes a
few pit stops. Once there, you have a 100-kilometre coastline full of
weekenders trying to decide on the best spot to settle amid the cool breezes off the gulf.

Join in the decision-making, and don’t forget Samet and Mun islands waiting out in the water. For years Rayong’s accommodations have been showing their age, and the swarms of Thai beach-goers never seemed to mind, but a handful of new developments have sprung up recently.

Driving from Bangkok, the mainland beaches start in Ban Chang district, 35km from the town of Rayong. Pala and Payoon beaches are popular, but the sands at Mae Ramphung, 11km outside the town, are even busier.

First-time visitors are sure to be surprised by the cleanliness of this 10km stretch, but keep in mind that part of it lies within Khao Lamya-
Mu Koh Samet National Park.There’s only one drawback, as
noted by Noom, who’s exploring the area with his family from Bangkok.
There’s no place to spend the night.

“With the main road running parallel to the sea, you can’t find a single hotel by the beach at Mae Ramphung,” he says.

So Noom will carry on to Laem Mae Phim beach, or take a boat to Koh Samet, where he can spend his holiday right on the shore.

Ban Kon Ao has long been a fishing village and certainly has that
aroma about it, but it can’t beat the bustling Ban Pae market, full of
dried seafood. It’s a vibrant place, packed with souvenirs, and an ideal
spot to grab some barbecued squid on a stick with chilli dip.

Ban Pae is best known as the ferry dock for Koh Samet; tourists head to Koh Kudi for the day from here, too. Ban Pae is also home to the
Rayong Aquarium, and has its own broad beach – Suan Son – with a
long line of splendid casuarina trees, picture-perfect with Samet as a
backdrop. They line both sides of the road towards Laem Mae Phim.

The seafood market at Suan Son is lively in the morning, when the fishing boats return with their catches – crabs, mussels, oyster, squid,
prawns and lobsters heaved onto the docks in buckets.

People come all day long to shop, but the best stuff is gone by mid-morning. What you do have at any time of the day is the charming ritual of the fishermen – their boats perched on cartwheels on the shore –
reloading their nets.

There’s a lot of new construction now in the Laem Mae Phim area. The building work on a few large condominiums is underway right by
the beach.Laem Mae Phim remains popular among Thai tourists with its many bungalows for rent, all crowded on weekends but virtually abandoned on weekdays.

Few restaurants open on weekdays and some of the bungalows’ kitchens close, so you need to drive elsewhere when you’re hungry.Laem Mae Phim is also the jumping-off point for the three Mun Islands – Koh Mun Nai, Koh Mun Klang and Koh Mun Nok.

It takes about 50 minutes to reach them.

HOW TO GET THERE

From Bangkok, take Sukhumvit Road and Bang Na-Trat Road to Ban Bung district, or drive to Chon Buri, Sri Racha or Pattaya to get to Rayong’s Muang district. From Ban Bung, follow the Ban Bung-Klaeng Road – Route 344 – via Wang Chan district to Klaeng district.

WHERE TO STAY

The Kantary Bay Hotel

The Kantary Bay Hotel and Serviced Apartments is a decent chain outlet and a favourite with expatriates and executives working in the East.  Tel: Tel: 02 233 3433, 02 233 9560
Visit: www.KantaryGroup.com
E-mail: reservations@kantarygroup.com
Bt2,000-Bt4,700

The Novotel Coralia Rim Pae

The Novotel Coralia Rim Pae has hotel rooms on the beachfront and bungalows across the road. It’s at www.Novotel.com.
Tel: 038 648 008-12, 02 237 6064
Visit: http://accorhotels.com/asia
E-mail: novotel@loxinfo.co.th
Price-range: Bt2,600-Bt8,474

The Ohana Resort

The Ohana Resort is a 10-room hotel on Mae Rampheung Beach.
Tel: 038 655 433, 081 870 2993
Visit: www.Ohana-Resort.com.
Email: info@ohana-resort.com
Price range: Bt1,200-Bt2,400

The Rayong Resort

The Rayong Resort is a full-scale hotel fronted by its own private beach.
Tel: 038 651 000-6, 02 254 7700
Visit: www.RayongResort.com.
Price range: Bt3,500-Bt12,000

The Villa Bali Resort

The Villa Bali Resort is a small, peaceful Balinese-style hotel near Laem Mae Phim. It’s off the beach, but has good facilities and its own dive centre.
Tel: 038-638080
Visit: http://Villa-Bali.net
E-mail: villabaliresort@gmail.com
Price range: Bt1,550-Bt3,900

The Baan Siri

The Baan Siri on Sea at www.BaanSiri.com is a well-run resort right by the Laem Mae Phim beach, great for families.
Tel: 038 648 549, 038 648 550, 038 648 120
Visit: http://www.BaanSiri.com
E-mail:baansirionsea@yahoo.co.th
Price range: Bt2,140-Bt8,025

The Samed Club

The Samed Club @ Noina Bay, part of the Samed Resorts Group, is a comfortable retreat on Noi Na Beach on Koh Samet.
Tel: 038 644 341-7
Visit: http://www.SamedResorts.com
Price range: Bt1,200-Bt3,000

The Lima Bella Resort

The Lima Bella Resort on Sai Kaew Beach is a new sister resort to the Limacoco Resort on Ao Prao. It has a pool in a tropical garden. Find it at
Tel: 02 938 1811
Visit: www.LimaBella.com
E-mail: reservation@limabella.com
Price range: Bt4,590-Bt11,900

The Bari Lamai

The Bari Lamai is a new resort on Laem Mae Phim Road near Suan Son. All rooms here have a sea view.
Tel: 038 647 234-5, 081 720 8671
Visit: http://www.BariLamai.com
E-mail:reservation@barilamai.com
Price range: Bt4,500-Bt12,950

WHERE TO EAT

Pad Thai Khun Krai, famous for its phad thai, is on Pae Klaeng Kram Road.

Ao Kai Seafood by Kai Bay near Laem Mae Phim has fresh fish and shellfish.

Tamnan Pa has a glowing reputation for its jungle-style decor and selection of good Thai food.

Paya, right by Mae Rampheung Beach, is popular for its fresh seafood.

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Wild frontiers

The provinces bordering the Cambodian border are rich in ancient architectural wonders

Manote Tripathi
The Nation

Hot, dry and very dusty for much of the year, the Kingdom’s eastern provinces along the Thai-Cambodia border are best explored during the rainy season. Although the heat can still be a killer between downpours, there are so many natural and ancient attractions scattered across Prachin Buri and neighbouring Sa Kaeo, which was elevated to provincial status in 1993, that this area more than merits the drive from Bangkok for a weekend break.

Known for their top-class national parks, waterfalls and whitewater rafting courses, both Prachin Buri and Sa Kaeo boast a number of classic Dvaravati and Khmer temples dating back more than a millennium. The drive to the two provinces is like journeying back in time through Thai and Khmer history and art ending, for those who wish it, in a very modern Vegas-style spread just across the border from Aranyaprathet.

For time efficiency, it makes sense to start your itinerary from the far end and work inwards. At 236 kilometres from Bangkok - an easy three-hour drive - the hilly expanse of Sa Kaeo is strewn with remnants of ancient Khmer heritage that spill over from the Korat plateau in lower Isaan
For history buffs, this is an ideal destination for many reasons. First, these lesser-known Khmer temples are a lot older than the famous ones like Angkor Wat. Secondly, many of these are tucked away deep in the forest and are relatively unknown to most tourists.

It’s a long drive to Sa Kaeo, but Road 359 offers priceless views of endless eucalyptus plantations set against a backdrop of distant hills as the road rises and dips through slopes all the way to the provincial capital. Driving in the rain, you almost get to touch rain clouds hovering just above treetops.

Ironically, the first landmark you’ll notice is not an ancient temple but rather a Baan U-athorn (low-cost) housing estate at the beginning of Road 348. Rows of white houses with blue tile roofs contrast beautifully with the green swamp but memories of that eye candy soon fade on the approach to Sadokkokthom Temple in Khok Sung sub-district, the biggest Khmer temple in eastern Thailand. Still in a much better condition than any other in the province, the temple lies east and is just 400 metres from the Cambodian border. Beyond the borderline are unmarked minefields in Banteay Meanchey.

Tucked away behind rural villages and surrounded by big trees, the temple has two large baray (reservoir) to the east and the north, the former the biggest at 240 by 440 metres. Inscriptions from two stone blocks (now kept at the National Library) found here reveal that the temple was unusual.

Built of laterite and pink sandstone from Khao Lone nine km to the north during the reign of King Aditayavarma II  (1049-1066), Sadokkokthom was originally a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva.

Chairat Sakulpram, a volunteer guide, says that the temple was the most important of all in the area because it was the centre of knowledge for all Brahmins who wanted to serve in the royal Khmer court. They came here to study all aspects of the religious protocol before entering the service in the ancient court.
Much of the damage, Chairat says, is the result of looting that started during the 1960s, much of thought to have been perpetrated by GIs stationed in the northeast in the wake of the Vietnam War.

The partially disfigured reclining vishnu lintel still adorns the gopura but the Shiva Linga from the main tower sanctuary is now missing.

From Sadokkokthom Temple, it’s tempting to visit Aranyaprathet just opposite Poi Pet if for no other reason but to observe Cambodian life without actually crossing the border markets. These day, visitors come to Aranyaprathet for three main reasons: to try their luck in one of the casinos just over the border, to hail a Toyota Camry taxi for a Bt500 trip to Siem Reap to see Angkor Wat or to shop at Talat Rong Klua market for handicrafts and products from Tonle Sap, Vietnam and China.

It’s a hot and dusty market full of contradictions, with young Cambodians both selling their wares and begging for mercy. On the other side, buses with the names of casinos plastered on the windshield ferry gamblers across the border.

Around Aranyaprathet, there are a few more Khmer temples to be found. Since most are in ruins beyond restoration, they are better ignored. Instead, turn the car inland and head towards Prachin Buri on Highway 33.

Downtown Prachin Buri, just 155km from Bangkok, is a frenzied market town with ubiquitous restaurants, glass-front barber’s shops and beauty salons. A favourite spot with locals is the Bang Pakong River, which boasts countless riverfront restaurants, temples and a spectacular Chinese shrine on its banks.

One of the best known attractions is Chaophraya Abhaibhubejhr Hospital, home to the renowned colonial-style Chaophraya Abhaibhubejhr building. Built in 1909 as a residence for King Rama V on his next visit to Prachin Buri, it was never graced by the monarch, as he passed away the following year. However, it did serve other members of the royal family including King Rama VI who visited in 1911.

Named after the son of the Cambodian ruler of Battambang who served the Fifth King when this city and other parts of Cambodia came under Siam’s rule, the hospital is now known as a centre of traditional Thai medicine and produces the kingdom’s best known line of herbal products.

From Prachin Buri, it’s an easy drive south on Road 319 to the ancient Dvaravati city of Si Mahosot. Or, if you’ve had enough of history, can head northwards on Road 3077 to Khao Yai National Park with its renowned waterfalls, camping sites and wildlife observation stations
A favourite stopover on the northern route is Haeo Narok waterfall (literally “the hellish abyss”), which made the headlines some years ago when some hapless elephant calves strayed off the beaten track and fell 60 metres to their death.

Heading back to the urban sprawl, you either exit on the other side of the national park, in Pak Chong, Nakhon Ratchasima, and pop into Choke Chai farm for some tasty ice cream made from real milk, or make your way back to Prachin Buri and admire King Naresuan Shrine right at the intersection of Road 3077 and Highway 33.
After that, follow the highway for 15km to Nong Chaom fruit market, then turn left into Road 319 for Bangkok with a stop at Si Mahosot ancient city.

Prachin Buri and Sa Kaeo make for an incredible driving experience and a great weekend stay – check them out while the weather is still pleasantly cool and the showers still frequent.

HOW TO GET THERE

Prachin Buri and Sa Kaeo are easily accessed by Highway 33. It’s quicker if you take a different route eastward from Bangkok by leaving the capital through Lat Krabang Road (connects with Sukhumvit 77 Road) that link with Road 314 in Chachoengsao. Drive up 314 for five minutes, then turn right into Road 304 when you see the green sign indicate the way to Prachin Buri and Sa Kaeo. At Phanom Sarakham, either turn into Road 319 to Prachin Buri or continue to Sa Kaeo by way of Road 3059, the most scenic route by far. Road 3059 eventually connects with Highway 33. Turn left into 348 and then turn right into 3081 for the drive to Sadokkokthom Temple.

Aranyaprathet is right at the end of Highway 33. To get to Prachin Buri, follow Highway 33 and then turn left into 3452. Chaophraya Aabhaibhubejhr Hospital is across the river on Road 3069.

From Prachin Buri town, take Road 320 northwards and 3077 to Khao Yai. Going south, take Road 319 to Si Mahosot for the ancient city tour. It’s easy to get back to Bangkok via Road 319, then 304 and 314 respectively, entering the city through Lat Krabang Road.

WHERE TO STAY

Muang district, Prachin Buri

Khao Yai Grand View Resort
Price range: Bt1,600-Bt3,200
Tel: (037) 279 410-3, (02) 237 5799
www.KaoYaiGrandViewresort.com

Blue Saffire Golf Resort and Jewellery
Price range: Bt1,500-Bt1,600
Tel (02) 982 7023-5

Suan Rasamee Resort and Spa
Price range: Bt600-Bt2,500
www.RassameeResort.com

Rim Phu Garden Resort
Price range: Bt1,200-Bt2,20
Tel: (02) 641 5333-7 extension 123, (081) 306 7660

Baan Suan Resort
Price range: Bt450-Bt8,000
Tel: (037) 403 232, (037) 403 252, (081) 630 9802

WHERE TO EAT

(Downtown)

Mathuros Rimnaam
Prachin Anushorn Road
Tel: (037) 213 848

Khrua Ratthaya
Kaew Phijit Road
Tel: (037) 212 734

San Sawang Jai
Ratdamri Road
Tel: (037) 211 230, (037) 211 130, (081) 313 9058

(Beyond Muang district)

Good Time
Tambon Sri Maha Pho
Tel: (037) 208 200

Thawa Garden
Ban Thatoom
Tel: (037) 208 444 extension 74110

Khrua Baan Phuan
Tambon Sri Maha Pho
Tel: (089) 019 2448

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Falls of plenty

With its cascades, parks and rolling hills, the nearby province of Nakhon Nayok makes for a great weekend trip – just watch out for the crowds

Manote Tripathi
The Nation

For Bangkokians, especially those living in the eastern suburbs, Nakhon Nayok is tantamount to having a waterfall in the backyard. The drive to the province’s three major cascades – Sarika, Wang Takhrai and Nang Rong – is easy and generously rewarded with fresh air, rolling hills and unlimited fun in the crystal-clear water.

At just 105 kilometres or about an hour’s drive from the capital, the hilly province is well accessed by major thoroughfares (Highway 1, the Eastern Ring Road, and then Road 305), though drivers may prefer the longer but more pastoral route through Min Buri, Nong Chok and Prachin Buri’s Ban Sang district,
Nong Chok, populated mainly by Muslims, is carpeted with sprawling paddy fields that blend seamlessly with fruit orchards and the rice fields of Bangkok’s neighbouring provinces. Once out of Nong Chok, the green fields, which stretch to the mountains of Khao Yai National Park and are occasionally broken up by canals, rivers and hamlets, do much to absorb the sun’s glare.

The tranquil, yet nondescript riverside Ban Sang hamlet is Thailand’s answer to a Tolkien Hobbit village, with wooden single-storey structures that are about the same height as the average person. Many houses don’t have a door, with occupants using a row of wooden planks to close off the front. Try to get there around lunchtime to taste the local fare, or time your arrival for late afternoon when the riverside market springs into action. Although the food is nothing special, it is home-cooked and tastes better than anything you’ll find at the gas station’s convenience store.

From Ban Sang, the drive to Nakhon Nayok on Road 3076 is relaxing, with the view of Khao Yai drawing closer and a pleasing countryside smell emanating from the rain-drenched earth.

Close to the city centre is the archaeological site of Dong Lakhon, an ancient city that belonged to the Dvaravati Empire from the ninth to the 11th century and then to the Khmer Empire from the 12th to the 14th. Several artefacts have been discovered but all that’s left today are the earthen moats and some broken pottery.

The famous waterfalls are easily accessed from Road 3049, and are a short walk away from the car park. They are also extremely popular with teenagers so are packed out at weekends.

With an admission fee of Bt40, Sarika Waterfall is the most scenic and is served by a steep stairway that rises and dips with the hill, so is not ideal for elderly or the wheelchair-bound. During the rainy season, the cool, clear and clean water is perfect for a long dip. Visitors can climb the steps to different levels, each of which has a pool of its own. Signs warn visitors to leave if the water becomes muddy.

With a Bt100 admission fee per car and four occupants, Wang Takhrai Waterfall is more of a whitewater rafting course and a popular weekend picnic destination for families as well as for throngs of teenagers who ride their inner tubes down the stream. Visitors can drive in a circuit inside the park or park their vehicles and rest under the big trees near the waterway.

Those who prefer not to picnic should head to Nang Rong Waterfall where plenty of restaurants have set up for business around the natural attraction. In fact, these days Nang Rong looks more like a big restaurant with a waterfall as a bonus than the other way round but if you enjoy communing with nature while inhaling the heady scent of gai yang, this is for you. On weekdays, it must be said, the park is considerably calmer.

More adventurous types go beyond the waterfalls and have fun rafting or canoeing on the Nakhon Nayok River in one of the crafts offered by one of tour companies located on both sides of Road 3049.

There’s more adventure to be found at Chulachomklao Royal Military Academy, which offers a range of tourist-friendly action programmes, from jumping off a tower and abselling from a cliff to forest trekking, mountain biking and kayaking.

With countless adventure activities to fall back on, Nakhon Nayok offers unrivalled backyard thrills, even though the natural attractions, especially the ones overrun by tourists, could be better managed.

HOW TO GET THERE

Nakhon Nayok is easily accessible via main roads and the most direct route is to follow Highway 1 or the Eastern Ring Road, then turn right into Road 305 before joining Road 33, which connects with Road 3049. The major waterfalls are located on the four-lane Road 3049.

For the more scenic route, leave eastern Bangkok on Road 304. Then turn left into Road 3481 and drive to Ban Sang in Prachin Buri. Turn left on to 3293, which links with Road 3076 for the drive northwards to Nakhon Nayok. From Road 3076, turn right onto Road 305 at the Sam Sao intersection and continue to Nakhon Nayok and Road 3049. On the way back, take Road 305, which connects with the Eastern Ring Road for easy access to Bangkok.

WHERE TO STAY

Home and Hill Resort
Sarika, Muang district
Tel: (037) 385 336, (084) 147 3290
www.HomeAndHillResort.com
Price range: Bt1,400-Bt8,000

Ton Sung Resort
Sarika, Muang district
Tel: (037) 328 273
www.TonSungResort.com
Price range: Bt1,000-Bt1,200

Baan Banana Resort
Khao Phra, Muang district
Tel: (085) 695 4559, (085) 695 4560,
www.BaanBananaResort.com
Price range: Bt1,680-Bt13,200

Ban Rim Nam Homestay
Sarika, Muang district
Tel: (086) 530 0371
www.BanRimNam.com
Price range: Bt4,000-Bt6,000

Green View Resort
Sarika, Muang district
Tel: (085) 331 8918 , (081) 804 5737
www.GreenView-Resort.com
Price range: Bt1,200-Bt1,500

Ban Pa Rim Khuen Resort
Hin Tang, Muang district
Tel: (037) 384 070, (089) 505 2102
www.BanPaResort.com
Price range: Bt1,200-Bt7,500

Ban Kaew Resort
Sarika, Muang district
Tel: (081) 400 4940, (081) 985 1009
www.BanKaewResort.com
Price range: Bt1,200-Bt3,000

Rabiang Prai
Khao Phra, Muang district
Tel: (037) 386 432, (081) 812 5165
www.RabiangPrai.net
Price range: Bt1,500-Bt6,500

WHERE TO EAT

Ban Khun Loong
Sarika, Muang district
Tel: (037) 328 391

Loong Ngiam
Sarika, Muang district
Tel: (037) 385 110

Laem Thong
Sarika-Nang Rong Road, Muang district
Tel: (037) 311 695

Sichol
Inside Sida Resort, Sarika-Nang Rong Road, Muang district
(037) 311 600

Sam Sao
Rangsit-Nakhon Nayok Road, Muang district
Tel: (037) 312 108

Lert Rot Pochana
Near Wat Udom, Muang district
Tel: (037) 311 978, (037) 313 045

Larb Pratapien
Near Chulachomklao Royal Military Academy
Tel: (037) 326 378

Thoong Ngoen Thoong Thong
Chaiyapan Road, Muang district
Tel: (037) 321 227

Nat-Thip
Sarika-Nang Rong Road (KM 9)
Tel: (037) 328 318, (081) 944 4275

Khrua Manao
Sarika-Nang Rong Road (KM 9)
Tel: (037) 328 327, (037) 328 313

Guest House
Near Chulachomklao Royal Military Academy
Tel: (037) 393 010-4, (037) 326 871-6

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Day out at ‘Big Mountain’

An ancient civilisation comes back to life at this superbly restored historical site

Manote Tripathi

The Nation

Buri Ram’s sprawling Chaloem Phra Kiat district is typical of the countryside in the lower Northeast of Thailand – mile after mile of arid, treeless land broken up by the occasional shabby village. The soaring daytime temperatures, dusty roads, and parched farmland say a great deal about the stoicism of the local people. So it comes as something of a surprise that amidst all this wilderness are traces of a prosperous civilisation – no fewer than 60 ancient Khmer temples that date back a millennium.

In fact, the landscape is very Khmer with baray (reservoirs) visible on all sides of the ruins and an orderliness and discipline permeating the symmetrical architecture of the ornate ancient monuments even though they all lie in ruins.

Only 120 kilometres from Nakhon Ratchasima, or 410km from Bangkok, Buri Ram offers a journey back in time to the ancient Khmer Kingdom, making it an ideal destination for anyone with a penchant for all things Khmer. For many visitors, the must-see destination is Prasat Phanom Rung (meaning “big mountain”).

Phanom Rung is truly remote – and a half-day’s drive from Bangkok - so a full weekend is required for this trip. It’s is possible to visit Buri Ram by leaving Bangkok at dawn and driving straight through, but more experienced weekenders prefer to include Buri Ram as part of a Nakhon Ratchasima or Prachin Buri-Sa Kaew itinerary.
This is a good idea because Buri Ram is only an hour’s drive from these provinces and there will be enough time to explore other Khmer monuments if one wishes.

Those coming by way of Nakhon Ratchasima, usually stop for lunch at Lam Takhong Dam in Pak Chong before continuing the journey on Road 24. Others take the more scenic route through Wang Nam Kheow with its numerous vineyards and great coffee shops on Road 304. From Sa Kaew, Buri Ram is best accessed through Road 348 that runs past national parks and another must-see spot, Prasat Sadokkokthom near the Cambodia border.

By far the biggest and most beautiful monument in Buri Ram, Prasat Phanom Rung, 40km from the gateway district of Nang Rong, stands atop an extinct volcano overlooking Chaloem Phra Kiat’s rural landscapes, which are dotted with Phanom Rung’s satellite temples like Prasat Muang Tam (eight km away) and the nearby Prasat Baan Bu and Prasat Khao Prai Bak. Given the influx of visitors during the weekends, it’s best to spare a few hours to take in the temple.

Built between the 10th and 13th century, Phanom Rung was originally a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva to symbolise Mount Kailash, his heavenly abode. After a series of restorations during the 12th century, the temple was converted in the 14th century to a Mahayana Buddhist monastery by King Jayavarma VII.

Most visitors park their cars at the entrance on the foothill and walk up the stairway to the east-facing main tower atop the hill, taking in the fabulous sights along the way, which include Phlab Phla pavilion and the three naga bridges.

Many people flock to the temple to observe the sunrise and sunset that occur in alignment with the 15 doors of the temple only four times a year in March and April, then again in September and October.

Another Khmer edifice that should not be missed is Prasat Muang Tam, believed to have been built between 967 and 1097 AD of the pre-Ankorean period and dedicated to Shiva. Take time too to stop at the 1,000-year old kilns along the way, which date back to the 10th century and served as a production centre for Khmer ceramics.

After the temple tour, visitors will almost certainly return to Bangkok with a different attitude towards Buri Ram. Dusty and arid it may be, but it was truly a civilised society that still commands respect.

HOW TO GET THERE

Buri Ram can be accessed through Nakhon Ratchasima and Sa Kaeo. From Bangkok, follow Highway 2 to Pak Chong’s Lam Takhong Dam, then turn right into Road 24 to Chok Chai and then Nang Rong. Take Road 2117 and 2221 to get to Prasat Phanom Rung.

From Sa Kaew, follow Road 348 northwards to Nang Rong. From Bangkok, it’s possible to get to Nang Rong by way of Wang Nam Kheow by taking Road 304 and then connecting with Road 24 to Nang Rong.

Road 304 is the most scenic, but the roadside views on Highway 2, especially in the Lam Takong Dam area, are also very impressive too.

WHERE TO STAY

California International House
Sangkakris Burana Road, Nang Rong,
Tel: (044) 631 277, (089) 947 5449, (081) 808 3347
www.GeoCities.com/California8gh
Price range:  Bt300-Bt900

Phanom Rung Resort
Tapek-Phanom Rung Road, Nang Rong
Tel: (044) 631 231
Price range: Bt500-Bt1,300

Nang Rong Hotel
Pradit Road, Nang Rong
Tel: (044) 631 014, (044) 631 465
www.NangRongHotel.com
Price range: Bt200-Bt600

Sakulkaew Resort
Nang Rong-Buri Ram Road, Nang Rong
Tel: (089) 583 3564, (044) 624 534
www.SakulkaewResort.com
Price range: Bt250-Bt550

Baan Soh Resort
Nang Rong-Buri Ram Road, Nang Rong
Tel: (044) 631 631, (081) 660 0979, (081) 660 2223
www.GeoCities.com/B_SOR2002
Price range: Bt350-Bt1,500

CBIRD Centre
Chok Chai- Det Udom Road, Nang Rong
Tel: (044) 657 145-7
www.PDA.or.th/NangRong
Price range: Bt450-Bt1,300

Honey Inn
Soi Srikool, Nang Rong
Tel: (044) 622 825, (081) 075 9972
www.HoneyInn.com
Price range: Bt200-Bt350

WHERE TO EAT

Suan Aharn Baan Soh
Tel: (044) 631 631

Suan Aharn Tu Moo Hao
Nang Rong-Buri Ram Road, Nang Rong
Tel: (044) 612 877

Laksana Kha Moo (Pork Knuckle)
Chok Chai-Det Udom Road, Nang Rong
Tel: (044) 631 158

Baan Kap Tonmai
Chok Chai-Det Udom Road, Nang Rong
Tel: (044_ 631 635

Phetkasem
Chok Chai-Det Udom Road, Nang Rong
Tel: (044) 631 992

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A dose of tourism

Sing Buri visitors let the doctor check them out while they check out the sights

Phoowadon Duangmee
The Nation

Nation photos/Phoowadon Duangmee
Think hospital and the pungent whiff of antiseptic assails your nostrils. Or you may picture unfortunate folk moaning their way to the emergency room. Or sharing the lift with a wildly bandaged fellow on a spooky night. Not really ingredients of a spectacular weekend getaway.

But things are changing. And how. A small district hospital in Khai Bang Rachan district, Sing Buri province, has recently introduced what it calls “medical tourism” and the doctors and nurses hold out the promise of more than just prescriptions and medicines.

Dropping in at the hospital to check things out, we are told not to eat or drink after midnight to ensure that the results of the medical examination aren’t skewed. The night passes peacefully with dreams of houris and single malt, and there I am the following morning, waiting for an angelic woman in white to begin checking me.

“You’re going to be fine. It hurts only as much as an ant bite,” says a nurse with a reassuring smile to my friend before she inserts a needle into his arm to pump out some blood.

Sounds sweet but not very helpful. Though the woman in uniform is attractive, the lurid liquid, big syringe and sharp needle make me feel dizzy and queasy.

Next, I clamber on to a weighing scale and then take a short walk to the X-ray room. It takes roughly an hour to complete the medical check-up, and the reward is a warm breakfast comprising coffee, a doughnut and khao tom kung (rice soup with shrimp). Though there are sniggers about the khao tom, it easily ranks among the best food I’ve ever had in a hospital.

“The medical examination results will be announced in the evening,” says Dr Suksan Phakthamnak, a director of the hospital. “For the rest of the day, our nurses will show you around Sing Buri.”

Ah, this is it – medical tourism. The medical check-up has sightseeing on the flip side. Too many people, says the doctor, wait until they’re too sick. The check up-cum-travel package should lure more people to the hospital, at least for an examination.

The nurse-turned-tour guide takes us sightseeing. With a bunch of uniformed nurses and a van with a huge red cross emblazoned on its side, we do look much like a mobile medical unit. Will residents be approaching us for free dental services and advice?
Sing Buri.

Located on the great Central Plain, the province is divided into two halves by the Chao Phya. Comprising six districts, it’s not very big, but the windswept rice fields and rivers provide a sense of space. Only two hours north of Bangkok by road, the greenery is soothing, enough to make you feel great even before arriving at Khai Bang Rachan Hospital.

“Sing Buri is small enough to wrap up in a day,” says Sathita Sabu, the nurse who has swapped needles for a megaphone. “Many weekend travellers come from Bangkok for a quick dose of the scenic landscape.”

Not surprising. The rustic views are dominated by green paddy fields and peasants strolling amid them making sure all is well. Sing Buri seems more in the 1970s than in the 21st century.

We stop by Khai Bang Rachan Museum and the Khai Bang Rachan Monument of Heroes. The monument was built to honour warriors who stood as firm as they could against powerful invaders in the mid-18th century.

In 1767, invaders from Hongsawadee, a kingdom in today’s Burma, attacked the northern Ayutthaya outposts such as Chiang Mai, Sukhothai and Kamphaengphet. They moved south through Nakano Sawan and Chai Nat to reach the small village of Bang Rachan.
“The local warriors held off the powerful Burmese invaders seven times over five months,” says the guide. “The camp fell and was burnt down after the eighth encounter.”

Looking at the statues of the 11 heroes who led the farmers on the battlefield, I wonder what made these people so courageous. People in other places surrendered, or abandoned their towns, to the Hongsawadee. However, statues don’t talk and I can only guess. There only two things that men would fight a losing battle for – land and women.

But it’s not the heroism alone that makes people visit Sing Buri. The laid-back lifestyle and scenic countryside do their bit. And the best place to see the peaceful life pass by is from a boat cruising along the Noi River.

The river was once an important travel route when roads and cars were rarities. Merchants, for example, travelled on boats with various kinds of pottery, such as jars, bowls, mortars and roof tiles from sites upstream to Lop Buri. King Rama V is said to have travelled incognito on the river to see his country and make friends with his people.

“Though lots of things have changed over several hundred years,” says the nurse, who is a Sing Buri native, “you see one thing that remains constant - the laid-back habits of the people.”

Old habits die hard. We see the peaceful lifestyle roll by as in a slide show: men lazing in hammocks, monks bathing temple dogs, women gossiping under the shade of a mango tree and fisherman sleeping on the job.

Eating out is the big attraction around Sing Buri, especially if you love fish. Many well-praised restaurants such as Kang Han Lom, Phad Thai Pak Bang and Chareon Tip, are alongside Highway 32. But we have a home-cooked dinner at our host family’s house worth every kilogram of weight gain - fish soup, shrimp cakes, nam prik plaa tu (deep-fried mackerel with a spicy dip) and several more mouth-watering dishes.

In the morning, after a lecture from the doctor on the excellent state of our health, we feel a bit sad about leaving Sing Buri to reunite with microwaved dinners in Bangkok. The idyllic weekend was proof that it’s silly to spend one weekend after another in a concrete jungle when the fields are greener and the air is cleaner in Sing Buri, not to mention the standard of nursing.

HOW TO GET THERE

Sing Buri, 135 kilometres or an hour’s drive from Bangkok, is well connected with Bangkok through highways and main roads. From Bangkok, use Phahon Yothin Road (Highway 1) or the Outer Ring Road (Road 9) and turn left into Road 32 in Ayutthaya’s Bang Pa-in for the straight drive northwards to Sing Buri by way of Ayutthaya and Ang Thong. The Khai Bang Rachan Monument of Heroes and Wat Bho Kao Ton (for the statue of Phra Dhammachot) in Khai Bang Rachan district are on Road 3032

WHERE TO STAY

Homestay Tha Kham (riverside)
Khai Bang Rachan district
Tel: (036) 535 478
Price range: Bt300

Khai Bang Rachan Youth Homestay
Khai Bang Rachan
Tel: (036) 535 661-2, (089) 083 6528
Price range: Bt150-Bt1,000

72 Hotel
Weerachon Road, Phrom Buri district
Tel: (036) 511 759, (036) 511 938
Price range: Bt200-Bt500

Chao Phya Garden
Sing Buri-Lop Buri Road, Muang
Tel: (036) 511 348
Price range: Bt200-Bt600

Sweet Home
Muang
Tel: (036) 523 255,
Price range: Bt500-Bt700

Sing Buri Hotel
Khun San Road, Muang
Tel: (036) 511 752
Price range: Bt260-Bt650

Sing Buri Palace
Wilaijit Road, Muang
Tel: (036) 520 904-5
Price range: Bt642-Bt3,000

WHERE TO EAT

Ood Nomsod
Nai Dok Road, Muang district
Tel: (036) 511 869

Phorn Phen Khao Man Kai
Wilaijit Road, Muang
Tel: (036) 512 369

Lom Choi Steakhouse
Nai Dok Road, Muang
Tel: (036) 520 397

Paiboon Kai Yang-Plaa Pao
Muang
Tel: (036) 512 132

Athit Pochana
Wilaijit Road, Muang
Tel: (036) 512 517

Loong Jerd Plaa Pao
Muang
Tel: (036) 511 740

Roong
Wilaijit Road, Muang
Tel: (036) 520 887

Charoen Thip
Nai Tan Road, Muang
Tel: (036) 511 099

Nam Phueng Chuan Chim
Muang
Tel: (089) 534 9153

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Sleepy Sao Hai dreams

The little hamlet in Saraburi is home to tender rice, startling murals in ruined temples and one-of-a-kind weavings

By Phoowadon Duangmee
THE NATION

Sao Hai, Saraburi
Nation photos/Phoowadon Duangmee

There are a fewer and fewer places around these days where you can wake up in a bucolic setting beside a river, make a contribution to monks paddling past in sampans and then go for a swim in absolutely clean water.

Sao Hai clings on. Edged by Ayutthaya’s provincial border on the west and the urban reach of Saraburi’s Muang district to the east, Sao Hai on the Pasak River is named after some mysterious “weeping pole”.

The fertile land produces the uniquely scented, tender white rice revered throughout Thailand as khao sao hai, and lately the district’s lovely riverside communities, from Tha Luang to Wat Tanod, are becoming known among weekend travellers.

Many of the unpretentious, ethnically diverse locals have opened their homes for short-term guests - traditional houses on the Pasak’s banks go for Bt150 a night.
From such idyllic bases you can cycle the roads, nosh at the food stands and stop by the marketplace and the temples.

An elderly former monk guides us to the even more venerable Buddhist chapel in sparsely peopled Muang Kao.

“This area used to be a town,” he notes, “but the town centre was moved. Unfortunately there are few things left here except for the old chapel of Wat Chanthaburi.”

A stone’s throw away is a glittering new church, but it’s hard to believe the chapel even manages to remain standing. Built in the 18th century, it’s black with grime and thick with vines.

Yet inside, beyond the cloud of mosquitoes, are beautiful, 300-year-old murals that relate such tales as “The Meeting of the Deities”.

“Sao Hai has been a mixed bag of ethnic groups since the Thon Buri period, like a small melting pot,” says our guide. “When the armies of Siam returned from the wars, they often brought back prisoners and put them to work.

“Wat Chanthaburi was built by Lao Wiang people - natives of Wiang Chan, the Lao capital. They settled here, built this temple and gave it a name to remind them of Wiang Chan.”

Further along the river is Wat Samuha Pradittharam, dating to 1861 and housing even grander murals. The small, white-washed temple has on its southern side a cluster of ruined pagodas.

“This temple is a must if you’re interested in the Thai Yuan people,” says my travelling companion Jane, a Sao Hai native. The murals inside are recognised as some of the finest portrayals outside the North of the Lanna way of life.

In 1804 Siamese troops rid northern Chiang Saen – now part of Chiang Rai – of the occupying Burmese. They returned with captives, who settled in Sao Hai and became known as the Thai Yuan.

The murals depict bare-chested young men seemingly trying to win girls’ hearts with bouquets, and the tarnguay salark procession, a typical Lanna merit-making ceremony.

As you admire the vivid paintings, you sink back in time. You can almost hear the folk music and share the energy of the dancers.

“Take a close look at the mural showing the women,” says Jane. They’re dressed in red sarongs that are unique, she points out, for their multiple horizontal stripes. “You won’t see them anywhere else - not even in the ancestral homeland in Chiang Saen.”
Lanna weavers, we’re told, come here to study the old fabric patterns.

If you want to be completely “wrapped” in the local history, stop by the Thai Yuan Weaving Centre in Baan Tontan. Thai Yuan women demonstrate the craft, wearing sarongs identical to those in the painting.

“We’re reviving the good old-fashioned floating market at Wat Tontan,” one of them announces. “It’s there on the first Sunday of every month, with lots of local produce and home-cooked food.”

Things were a bit clumsy at the floating market to begin with, she admits, since some vendors didn’t know how to paddle the boats.

But it’s living up to its promise. You can buy a charming sarong in black and red for around Bt140 and much more colourful ones with finer patterns for Bt300.
The district has a good choice of small hotels, but the Thai Yuan Cultural Centre has three traditional Siamese houses on the Pasak River that offer the best place to lay your head.

“The movie ‘Pi Kaew Nang Hong’ was filmed here,” says Songchai Wunnagul, the owner, and several other period films besides.

It’s no surprise. Atop stilts on a high riverbank and generously shaded by rain trees, the houses are authentic and full of character, a perfect haunt for ghosts like Pi Kaew Nang Hong.

Songchai, a retired teacher and a social activist, bought the structures elsewhere and rebuilt them here. They were intended to house his collection of antiques and artefacts as a private museum, but thieves made off with the bulk of his treasure.
The homestay is Plan B, allowing Songchai to share what’s left.

You can’t turn back the clock to the 19th century and try to appease the ghosts, but you can revel in the memories so poignantly invoked.

Outside the cultural centre is a well-paved road, yet we putter around the river in a small boat, scattering temple dogs and savouring every single bit of the experience.
A weekend in Sao Hai isn’t complete without giving alms to the monks. At sunrise Songchai calls the temple on his mobile phone, and 15 minutes later two elderly monks in sampans approach the dock outside.

The serious photographers among us have persuaded an old woman and a few children to dress up in traditional fashion and greet the monks.
One eases his boat forward, but is asked to draw back just a little for the sake of a wellcomposed snapshot. Then the old woman extends her offering, and is requested to hold that pose.

The monk is duly amused by the dithering.

“Let’s finish up!” someone says.

I have to agree. We’re asking far too much of these good local people - not to mention all the temple dogs waiting for their breakfast across the river.

HOW TO GET THERE

Only 120 kilometres or an hour’s drive from Bangkok, Sao Hai on Pasak River is well served by Highway 1 (Phahon Yothin Road). Coming from Bangkok’s western or eastern suburbs, take the Outer Ring Road (Road 9) which will connect with the highway in Bang Pa-in.  From there, it’s a short drive to Saraburi’s Muang district. In Saraburi, turn left at the Na Chong intersection, proceed to Road 3041 and drive another 10 kilometres. If you’re no good in a boat, bring your bicycle for enjoyable outings around the district.

WHERE TO STAY

The Thai Yuan Cultural Centre Homestay
Sao Hai
Tel:  (036) 725 2244
Price range: Bt150 per night.

Phu Fa Pasak Resort
Muang district
Tel: (02) 933-0966-7
www.PhuFaPasak.com
Price range: Bt1,800-Bt2,500

Kratom Tip Resort
Wang Muang District
Tel: (081) 308 8788, (081) 292 2273
www.KratomTip.com
Price range: Bt800-Bt2,500

Charn Issara Resort
Muak Lek
Tel: (02) 235 2358, (036) 341 899
www.CharnIssaraResort.com
Price range: Bt1,800-Bt4,500

Had Song Kwae Resort
Adireksan Road, Kaeng Khoi District
Tel: (036) 227 215, (036) 237 554-55
www.HadSongKwae.com
Price range: Bt1,000-Bt7,000

Supalai Pasak Resort
Muak Lek
Tel: (036) 306 270-2
www.SupalaiPasakResort.com
Price range: Bt1290-Bt2,190

Rai Kusuma Resort
Muak Lek
Tel: (036) 341 491, (036) 341 495
www.RaiKusuma.com
Price range: Bt1,200-Bt6,500

Muak Lek Health Spa & Resort
Muak Lek-Wang Muang Road, Muak Lek
Tel: (036) 345 259-64
www.MuakLekResort.com
Price range: Bt2,200-Bt6,000

WHERE TO EAT

Rom Sai
Baan Na-Kaeng Khoi Road, Kaeng Khoi
Tel: (089) 823 3221, 08 9905 4186

Baan Ton Mai
Phaholayothin Road, Phra Buddhabhat
Tel: (036) 266 331, (036) 321 969

Khrua Jompol (Field Marshall’s Kitchen)
Phaholayothin Road, Phra Buddhabhat
Tel: (036) 266 487

Thap Thim Siam Raft
Chalerm Phrakiat District
Tel: (081) 994 7933, (081) 948 2381

Orchids
Mitraphap Road, Muang
Tel: (036) 222 855

Ploy
Inside Saraburi Inn, Muang
Tel: (036) 218 888

Busr Nam Thong
Sudbanthad Road, Muang
Tel: (036) 315 516-8

Baan Suan
Muang
Tel: (036) 313 685

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Wild times at Khao yai

Friendly locals and mysterious animals make a trip to the national park a real adventure

William Baldwin
The Nation

As the name suggests, the problem with wildlife is that it’s often never there when you want it and often loitering in the shadows when it’s not welcome. During a recent visit to the delightful Khao Yai National Park, a few hours northeast of Bangkok, I had plenty of time to consider this conundrum.

After a thunderstorm I ventured down a forest path as the afternoon sun re-emerged and the trees rang with incessant cicada buzzing. I hadn’t seen anyone for an hour when I realised two monkeys were eyeing me from the path ahead. Then I was aware that two of the little gymnasts were clambering in the canopy above my head and other ominous noises were coming from the jungle around me.

“Nice apes,” I mumbled pathetically.

Macho types may bristle at my timidity but I’ve had too many run-ins in India with monkeys to brush them off as harmless little performers. In India, the furry primates infest the cities, ripping up power lines and breaking into homes, and the locals are often wary of them, carrying sticks while the dogs flee if confronted with a set of monkey fangs.

I once saw a tourist in India who had lost a chunk of his leg after he finished second in a tussle with one of the sinuous little simians. Anyway, I retreated down the path and picked up a stick and a stone, only to almost tread on a large reptile, which looked like something from Jurassic Park as it shot me a beady eye and languidly slipped away. I had been told not to swim at sunset, as the rivers were croc-infested and dusk was their favourite time to hunt for dinner. I suspected this monster’s belly was beginning to rumble and my stick suddenly seemed rather inadequate.

The other side of this experience came later in the evening when a friendly group of tourists invited me to join their night safari.

Now, from the safety of a swift jeep, surrounded by other people who I was confident I could beat in a sprint, I felt completely happy to inspect any number of jungle giants. Inevitably, however, an hour of patrolling the park, shooting a powerful beam of light across the countryside, only revealed an enormous number of moths and deer. Obviously this is hardly a surprise as a lone visitor, wandering silently through a forest, is far less likely to draw attention to himself than a pack of intoxicated locals on a road blasting out a 400-watt beam as they speed around on the back of a sizeable truck.

For the rest of the time, trying to negotiate one of Thailand’s largest national parks without a car meant that I was dependent on the help of strangers and on several occasions I was deeply touched by their generosity.

They went out of their way to drop me at my campsite, at bus stops and help me explore waterfalls that would otherwise have been out of bounds. I was force-fed barbecued treats and plied with alcohol at my campsite. The excellent campsites are sociable, family-oriented places with good restaurants and spotless shower blocks that would put many European sites to shame. If you don’t have your own tent and sleeping bag, expect to pay more than Bt200 for a night, although this price will come down per head depending on how many people you wish to squeeze into your municipal dome tent. The distinct increase in altitude from Bangkok means a reasonable sleeping bag is essential as the nights have a refreshing chill, which is most welcome after spending much time in the muggy city. The Khao Yai air tastes so pure compared with the gloopy smog of Bangkok that it could be bottled for sale.

I was lucky enough to bump into a young chap called Knot, who works as a flight steward for Thai Airways and spends much of his time on his native soil in the small home he built himself on the edge of the park.

An amiable chap, Knot invited me to join him on his future visits to the park, which has Unesco World Heritage status, normally an indication anywhere in the world that you’re in for a treat.

Knot had an encyclopaedic knowledge of the park’s trails and told me to check for leeches after I’d got drenched in a tropical downpour: I found two bloodsucking worms enjoying a meal on my ankles. When I picked them off they descended the log where I placed them like a child’s Slinky Spring making its way down stairs.

Knot said the park becomes more crowded at the weekends but during my mid-week visit it was possible to walk for several hours without seeing a soul.

The different altitudes in the enormous 2,712-square-kilometre reserve have enabled a diverse set of ecosystems to develop. On some of the higher spots in the park, the trees thin out and the scenery opens into delightful meadows that are like European foothills. The air was laden with floral scents and thick with butterflies and an array of exotic birds, including a few hornbills that swooped around me. I had to pinch myself to remember I was only a few hours from the sprawling capital.

If only I could convince myself that the Thai wildlife was as friendly as the Thai visitors, then Khao Yai would offer the ideal break as the heat increasingly throttles the capital.

HOW TO GET THERE

At 259 kilometres from Bangkok, Nakhon Ratchasima is a mere two hours’ drive. From Bangkok, follow Highway 1 that leads to Saraburi, the gateway to Isaan, where you have to turn right into Highway 2 (Mitraphab Road) for the drive to Klang Dong and Khao Yai in Pak Chong. In Pak Chong, turn right into Road 2090 that leads all the way to Khao Yai. It is possible to exit the park through Prachin Buri via Road 3077.

WHERE TO STAY

Khao Yai National Park
Inside the park
Tel: (02) 562 0760
http://www.dnp.go.th
Price range: Bt800-Bt9,000

Khao Yai Hostel
In the back of Klang Dong Fruit Market
Tel: (044) 328 277, (089) 668 3448
http://www.KhaoYaiHostel.com
Price range: Bt150-Bt1,600

Baan Klai Fah
Pakchong district
Tel: (085) 365 4142
http://www.BaanKlaiFah.com
Price range: Bt350-Bt1,800

Khao Yai Fah Sai
Pak Chong
Tel: (081) 203 8724, (083) 603 3317
http://www.KhaoYaiFahSai.com
Price range: Bt700-Bt1,100

PB Valley
Pak Chong
Pansuek-Kudkla Road, Pak Chong district
Tel: (036) 226 395
Price range: Bt2,500-Bt5,000

Ban Mai Chay Nam
Kohkaew Village, Pak Chong
Tel: (044) 314 236, (081) 660 2826
http://www.BanMaiChayNam.com
Price range: Bt900-Bt2,000

Farm Chok Chai Camp
Mitraphab Road, Pak Chong
Tel: (02) 532 2846, (02) 998-9381 ext 155-157
http://www.FarmChokChai.com
Price range: Bt3,490-Bt3,990

Greenery Resort
Located 2.5 km from Khao Yai’s entrance
Tel: (044) 297 224-5
http://www.GreeneryResort.com
Price range: Bt3,400-Bt7,800

Khao Yai Hut
Near Khao Yai
Tel: (044) 297 394-5
Price range: Bt1,250-Bt4,800

Juldis Khao Yai Resort and Spa
Thanarat Road
Tel: (044) 297 297, (02) 556 0251-6
http://www.KhaoYai.com
Price range: Bt3,000-Bt4,800

Bu Trai Country View
Wang Nam Khiao district
Tel: (044) 228 422
http://www.BuTraiCV.com
Price range: Bt1,200-Bt3,000

Tako Rai Homestay
Opposite Tako School, Wang Nam Khiao
Tel: (081) 967 5749
http://www.TakoRaiHomestay.ThiewThai.com
Price range: Bt700-Bt1,200

View Suay Far Sai
Wang Nam Khiao
Tel: (081) 981 4810
http://www.ViewSuayFarSai.com
Price range: Bt500-Bt11,000

Baan Rai Kulawanit
Wang Nam Khiao
Tel: (044) 228 400, (02) 811 8308-10
Price range: Bt1,500-Bt4,800

WHERE TO EAT

Baan Maai Chaai Naam
Pak Chong
Tel: (044) 314 236

Café de Buas
Thanarat Road (km 14), Pak Chong
Tel: (086) 780 2626

The Little Cowboy
Mitraphap Road (km 163)
Tel: (044) 315 582

Khrua Pradoo
Wang Nam Kheow
Tel: (044) 228 369

Laan Kao
Wang Nam Kheow
Tel: (044) 228 063

Khrua Rim Kuen
Wang Nam Kheow
(044) 249 064

Ton Naam Steak
Wang Nam Kheow
(044) 244 015

Incredible Khao Yai

Birdsong on the elephant trail, multi-hued mushrooms at your feet. What urbanite wouldn’t feel better exploring our greatest national park?

Weeranuch Puttachartsaewee,
Nattareewan Sirichantarat
The Nation

If you pack your bags now and head for the vast forest refuge that is Khao Yai National Park, it won’t be the first time a burned-out Bangkokian has fled the scene for greener surroundings. By all accounts, a single night’s stay there in the bosom of nature can be unforgettable, even life-changing.

Khao Yai, Thailand’s original national park, is as huge as its name implies, sprawling across four provinces – Nakhon Ratchasima, Saraburi, Nakhon Nayok and Prachin Buri.

Its rich biodiversity has long attracted urbanites, particularly those from the stone canyons of Bangkok just two hours’ drive away.

So pack those bag and get in the car or on a bus and spend the travel time recharging your batteries ready for the healthily imminent forest trek.

At the park you have to choose among the five main routes into the looming woods.

The first covers 5.4 kilometres from Don Tiew to the Nong Phak Chi Reservoir, and is pretty exciting because it crosses streams, hills and grasslands.

From Don Tiew to Mor Sing To it’s a 2.7km hike through dense forest with a reasonable chance of spotting some resident wildlife.

The 3km Nong Phak Chi trail affords an opportunity to see huge banyan trees and the nests of hornbills, if not the actual tenants themselves.

The more adventurous can trudge a full 8km from the visitors’ centre to the Haew Suwat waterfall.

Then there’s the 3.1km Pha Kluay Mai-to-Haew Suwat waterfall stroll that takes in the wild orchids lining the little stream of Lam Takhong.

“The last route is best suited to families, since the distance isn’t too long and yet it’s full of different flora and fauna,” says park ranger Anantasak Wonghan, listing species from tiny ferns to huge eaglewoods among the latter.

“There are a lot of full-grown eaglewoods that are over a hundred years old. The wood is used in incense, and the trees are becoming very rare now.”

Anantasak reminds you to look down as well as up, though, because there are “trekking ferns” travelling almost as fast as you are through the undergrowth, hauling themselves along by their leaves. When a leaf touches the ground, a sprout grabs hold, and it’s another giant leap for fernkind.

If you didn’t know that, the trail is one huge classroom, especially when it comes to herbs, which will happily demonstrate their therapeutic qualities if you’ll just pay attention. They come in very handy indeed if you’re suddenly feeling feverish or, perish the thought, start bleeding.

And if you’re lost, just look for bamboo, which always lean toward the east.

While the dry season means the creeks have little water and few fish, you can spot animals, or at least traces of them, like the imprint left by a dozing elephant.

“This shows that this route is the elephants’ usual walkway despite its narrowness and steepness,” Anantasak notes. He also points out chunks of beehives tossed aside by honey-hungry bears.

For quick learners, there’s a sixth route that’s just 800 metres. Starting right in the backyard of the park office, the stone and brick path is fast and convenient and still manages to take you past interesting plants of all sizes, including colourful fungi, and across a rope bridge that tosses in a bit of a challenge.

Even if the large wildlife proves elusive, there are plenty of grim little beasts on view, like not-little-at-all centipedes, and blood-sucking leeches that menace visitors during the wet season because they’re undercover as bits of bark.

Night-time, of course, boosts your chances of a major wildlife encounter. A little luck will present some barking deer or even a family of feeding elephants.

The rangers are always on hand, ready to illuminate the animals with a flashlight, which displays the animals looking back at you. Perhaps they’re out for a human-spotting hike.

Having been awakened early by the din of thousands of birdcalls, you’ll be wanting to get a look at the park’s feathered alarm clocks. Bird guide and binoculars in hand, you can hike to their feeding grounds with the park officer.

Among the most common are the hornbill (a symbol of fertility and love!), the red-bearded bee eater and the Asian fairy bluebird.

If you control your annoyance at being awake at 5am and keep quiet, they’ll put on a fancy warbling, tail-tossing show for you.

And while the morning fog still lingers, you can ascend through the mist to the cliff at Pha Daew Dai. At 1,000 metres above sea level, it’s like heaven on earth.

The road to heaven, however, is paved with precariousness. The forest along the way is different from down below, all mossy and shared by Himalayan black bears, wild bulls and elephants. They’re there to make you appreciate the cliff top even more.

Further adventure awaits in the form of rafting the Hin Pherng and Lam Takhong rapids. The rafts are provided, as are bicycles if you’re in the mood for a pedal.

Elsewhere each evening, the park’s bats and the sky’s stars need watching. Ask about the best times to visit for some nocturnal neck-bending, but keep in mind that you can stay a long time at Khao Yao to await ideal viewing conditions.

There are a dormitory and youth lodges, and camping grounds at Pha Kluay Mai and Lam Takhong, where tents and other equipment are available for rent.

For more information, call Khao Yai National Park at (02) 731 9002, or fax (09) 844 5936.

Vintage Thailand

It’s a heady drive into the wine country hills of Saraburi and Nakhon Ratchasima, where you can see first-hand a whole new industry being cultivated for the world

Vipasai Niyamabha
The Nation

They may be far away from the world-famous wine regions, but don’t underestimate a visit to our local vineyards, which can all be reached from Bangkok in just two hours.

Winery tours are a great way to get out in the countryside and sample the fruits of the land, and you can meet the farmers who will one day be revered among winemakers as true pioneers.

Saraburi and Nakhon Ratchasima are havens among Thai connoisseurs. The signs are everywhere as you travel down the Friendship Highway between the two centres, indicating clusters of grape farms with directional arrows and the number of kilometres to go.

More than one grower with vineyards along the low hills of eastern Thailand envisions that someday the region will be well-known for its grape products – and its fine wine.

The growth of the local wine industry has been slow but impressive. This year there are two wineries in Nakhon Ratchasima and many more in the development stage.

The first in the area was founded in 1992 by Piya Brirombhakdi of the Boon Rawd Brewery Co, makers of popular Singha beer. It’s in the hills of Khao Yai National Park, 125 kilometres north of Bangkok.

The property in Pyayen district occupies 324 hectares at 300 metres above sea level.
“We started to grow grapes here in 1992, then built the winery in 1997,” says Prayut Piangbunta, the manager of Khao Yai Winery.

And indeed, visitors can see the old grapes’ “big spike” in wineries, showing their improved pesticides and greater experience with the varieties that grow well at this enormous vineyard.

Today the Khao Yai Winery is the best-known attraction in the area for its scenery, wine and other grape products, as well as its charming PB Valley Resort and a restaurant whose balcony gazes across the lovely vista.

Village Farm in Wang Nam Khiew district is regarded as the province’s second great winery, producing wine with the Chateau des Brumes and Village Farm Nouveau label.
The farm covers 32 hectares of high land more than 500 metres above sea level, an area slightly hilly with moderate up and down slopes in Baan Pai Ngam village, to the northeast of Khao Yai National Park.

Village Farms has its own beautiful combination of the farm accommodations, restaurant, vineyards and winery. Its inn even earned a mention in the Tourism Authority of Thailand’s “Unseen Paradise” promotion.

The latest addition to the winery tour, GranMonte, is owned by Visooth and Sakuna Lohitnavy. Its 16-hectare vineyard has been growing mainly Shiraz and Chenin Blanc grapes from French rootstock since 1999.

Proud of its GranMonte Vintage Collection 2002, the family vineyard has no winery of its own. Khao Yai Winery handles production. Still, GranMonte Farm in Asoke Valley is a scenic stop on any weekend.

The most cherished centuries-old wine grapes are cultivated between the 30th and 50th parallels of latitude in both the southern and northern hemispheres.

Prayut says Thai wines are referred to as “New Latitude” vintages, cultivated at the exotic tropical latitude of 14.3 degrees north of the equator.

“This is the showcase for the potential of Thailand’s youthful wine industry,” writes JC Eversole, wine columnist for The Nation.

Prayut agrees, and hopes the region’s development will follow that of the “New World” wines from Australia and the US, which themselves were still widely disregarded by wine snobs just 20 years ago.

Prayut notes that today wine from these regions are among the world’s best-sellers.
Many local wine lovers are hoping Northeast Thailand will be just like California’s Napa region was 20 years ago, with a spirit of experimentation and discovery.

“I’ve seen consistent improvements,” says Virawat Cholvanich of Village Farm, adding that it takes years for reputations to bloom.

Vineyard trails

Take Route 2089 or 2224 around the sunflower-bedecked fields of Muak Lek district toward Wang Muang district, perhaps stopping at one of the steak restaurants along the way – there’s very good ostrich steak to sample. You can savour the deep-fried curry puffs at the famous Chok Chai Farm and stop to buy grape juice and wine at Khao Yai Winery and GranMonte Vineyard.

End the excursion with a scenic drive right across Khao Yai National Park for a visit at a delightful Chateau des Brumes winery and Village Farm in Nakhon Ratchasima’s Wang Nam Kheow district.

Wine along the road

PB Valley Khao Yao Winery

PB Khaoyai Reserve Shiraz 2001: rich and ripe, spicy with modest prune and plum flavours.

PB Khaoyai Reserve Chenin Blanc 2003: rich and inviting, offering pineapple, citrus tangs and smoky and honey notes.

GranMonte Vineyard

2001 Premier Chenin Blanc –refreshingly crisp, soft on the palate and has a smooth melony and musky flavour.

2001 Premier Shiraz – tantalising fruity and spicy tastes, peppery aromas and sweet, full flavoured grapes.

2002 Celebration Chenin Blanc – breaths light melon and floral aromas and shows substantial body ( by JC Eversole)

2002 Celebration Shiraz – evinces ripe plum intensity, medium body to compliment duck, grilled lamb or beef. (by JC Eversole)

Chateau des Brumes Winery & Village Farms

Chateau des Brumes reserve 2002 and 2003 – full-bodied wine with a delectable nose of leather and wood

Chateau des Brumes Prestige 2003 – a medium to full-bodied red with pronounced toast aromas, blessed with bright colour.

A vintage outing

There are no vast vineyards in Korat, but the miniature wine tours are great

Phoowadon Duangmee
The Nation

Khao Yai may not be the Napa Valley, and Mitraphap Road to Nakhon Ratchasima (Korat) is certainly no languorous California highway, but there’s a certain appeal to a “Sideways”-style road trip through the Asoke Valley to Khao Yai.

The GranMonte vineyard is hosting its own wine festival today through Monday to celebrate the bottling of three new vintages.

“We’ll give everyone a tasting as well as a tour of the estate,” says owner Visooth Lohitnavy, himself a winemaker.

With only 13 hectares of Shiraz and Chenin Blanc grapes in cultivation, GranMonte is considered a “boutique winemaker” – small, yet able to make fine wine.

The small estate and other vineyards like PB Valley in Nakhon Ratchasima are popular destinations for wine lovers, especially from October to December when weekenders from the city are a-prowl for cool country breezes.

“Primavera 2003, Kirimaya 2004, and The Heritage 2005 will be introduced at our estate over the weekend,” Visooth says.

Adding more colours to the whites and reds at the GranMonte Wine Festival are offerings from seven Thai wineries, including PB Valley, Monsoon Valley, Chateau de Loei and Chateau des Brumes.

Some of the vintages have received enthusiastic reviews at international wine festivals.

“The wineries will have their wines sold at special prices during the festival,” says Visooth, who is also a president of the Thai Wine Association.

Besides the wine tastings and vineyard tour, GranMonte will also offer drawing lessons for wannabe artists among the children attending, who might well be inspired by the picturesque vineyard.

Bring your corkscrew

GranMonte Estate is 11 kilometres off Friendship Highway in Nakhon Ratchasima’s Pak Chong district. If driving from Bangkok, make a U-turn after the MP Gas Station at the Km 144 milestone. Then turn left onto Phansuk-Kudkla Road. Follow the GranMonte signs for 11km.

For more information, call (02) 653 1522 or (036) 227 334-5, or visit www.granmonte.com.

Visiting the home of silk

Somluck Srimalee
The Nation
Nakhon Ratchasima

There are plenty of opportunities to buy fine Thai silk from Jim Thompson outlets in Bangkok but an invitation to visit the company’s farm in Nakhon Ratchasima province is not all that frequent.

The Jim Thompson Farm is 260 kilometres from Bangkok, amid the stunning scenery of Pak Thong Chai district, one of the famous silk-weaving villages of the Kingdom.

Although the Jim Thompson Farm was established in 1988, it decided to open its doors to visitors only in 2000. With balmy wind blowing throughout the Northeast, now is a good occasion to pay the farm a visit. The farm is open each weekend this month until January 2. So, hurry up. Admission is Bt30 for adults and Bt20 for children.

This is the place where you can appreciate the complexities of silk production. You can view the whole process of silk production at the farm – from eggs to cocoons, and from cocoons to silk yarns.

Farmers tend to big orchards of mulberry trees, which are meant for raising silkworms. You can arrange a farm tractor to view the mulberry plantations. The farm contains two breeds of mulberry trees – the first is an original mulberry and the second was developed by the agriculture department of the Agriculture and Cooperative Ministry. It’s called the “Buriram 60” variety.

Jariya Meechuen, Jim Thompson’s farm manager, is an able guide. She explains that the original mulberry has small leaves but the Buriram 60 has wide leaves that are better for raising silkworms.

Along the tractor’s route, you can stop to see the life cycle of silkworms. Actually, a silkworm is not a worm at all, but a caterpillar that transforms into a moth.

Jariya says that tiny eggs have to come from moths which the Thais call “midnight butterflies”. These moths are too weak to fly and unable to crawl more than a foot. They produce quality silk compared to others of their ilk.

There’re not only thousands of silkworms at Nakhon Ratchasima but also a flourishing trade in growing vegetables. The mushroom farms look pretty wholesome and the flowers this season look so colourful.

Not far from flowers, you discover the largest pumpkin you would find in a market. The farm has several breeds of pumpkins, cantaloupe, honey watermelons and sweet corns.

Jariya says that visitors can buy farm produce, including things such as vegetables and mulberry tea.

After opening the farm to public, Jim Thompson Farm has welcomed an average of 10,000 visitors a month. Income has been about Bt5 million a month.

“Actually high income is not our aim. Instead, Jim Thompson Farm wants to give clients an idea about how our silk business operation. They can come and understand where the quality silk comes from and why it has become well known all over,” adds Jariya.

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Laid back in Lop Buri

This historical capital delights visitors with its pleasing mix of architectural styles, history and golden fields.

Manote Tripathi

The Nation

One of Thailand’s oldest towns and the second capital of Siam during the Ayutthaya period, Lop Buri is a dignified city. Rebuilt in the 17th century by King Narai the Great with the help of French architects, its old palaces and temples are a pleasing mix of Thai and Western styles, although today the town is more famous for its monkeys, which seem to have made the urban sprawl their home.

To early travellers, Lop Buri was a juncture of world culture, a blend of Siamese, European and Persian architecture spiced up by Indian and Khmer influences. Now it’s an important military base founded by Field Marshal Plaek Pibulsongkhram.

With traces of its original landscapes still visible, Lop Buri, like Ayutthaya, is a great gateway for anyone interested in Siam’s history. And, at just 153 kilometres from Bangkok, it’s also just right for a weekend break, with dams, waterfalls, fields of golden sunflowers and endless hilltop temples to explore along the way.

Lop Buri is best enjoyed via a circuitous drive so rather than head straight on at Saraburi, you should turn right onto Highway 2 towards Korat (Nakhon Ratchasima) until you reach Muak Lek, then hang a left onto road 2089 towards Wang Muang, the district of Saraburi that borders Lop Buri. During the winter months, this is a wonderful sight, with fields of sunflowers stretching as far as the eye can see.

There’s plenty to see in and around Wang Muang too, including the nearby waterfall, Nam Tok Pa Lan Hin Dad and Pasak Cholasith Dam, the world’s longest earthen dam, which straddles Lop Buri and Saraburi.

There are more sunflower fields to explore as you head into Lop Buri: along roads 3017 and 3333 (in Phattana Nikhom district) and on sections of road 21 leading to Chai Badan district. The dam can also be accessed by road 3017 and is a favourite hangout in the afternoon heat.

Next on the circuit is Lop Buri city, which is well served by road 3017. As the seat of power for King Narai, the city was where the monarch chose to receive most of his overseas visitors and it was only after his death that the government offices moved to Ayutthaya.

At the heart of the town stands Narai Ratchaniwet Palace, an epitome of eastern hospitality, diplomacy and modernity. Complete with Roman terracotta pipes and a reservoir, the palace incorporates throne halls, grand banquet halls and royal residences in brick masonry plus an elephant corral.

Then walk over to Kraison Siharat Hall where King Narai, along with French astronomers, observed his first solar and lunar eclipses in 1685 and 1688.

Not to be missed is the Chanthara Phisan Throne Hall, which is captured in a famous painting showing the King reaching down from the throne to grab a document presented by a French envoy. The palace, which is set in a leafy environment with thick foliage providing much-needed shade, is an oasis of tranquillity and perfect for a break.

Near the palace stands the residence of Constantin Phaulkon, the young Greek adventurer-turned-minister in King Narai’s court. Phaulkon was King Narai’s trusted aide and rose to high office under his reign amid widespread scepticism that he was there to convert the king to Christianity, thus allowing France to take over the kingdom. He was executed when the throne changed hands.

A two-storey structure of brick masonry in a mix of Thai and European architectural styles with a big grass lawn, the residence also housed the first French diplomatic mission led by Chavalier de Cheaumont in 1685. Divided into three zones, the property featured a two-storey residence for the French diplomats and a one-storey building with a half-circular porch on the west, a bell tower and a church in the centre and a cluster of two-storey buildings to the east. History buffs will be fascinated by these gracious buildings and it’s worth reading up King Narai and the Greek adventurer before visiting. The residences were left empty after the monarch passed away and renovations were finally started in 1863 at the orders of King Rama IV.

Phra Prang Samyod, located just next to the railway road on Narai Road, is a 13th-century Khmer temple built by King Chaivarman VII. Originally housing images of Mahayana Buddhism and then Hindu gods, the temple is now home to hundreds of monkeys that enjoy the annual feasts held there by the authorities. More monkeys can be found at the nearby San Phra Kan shrine. And while it’s true that the monkeys do attract visitors, there are also a nuisance, with many locals complaining about their behaviour.

On the way back to Bangkok, it’s recommended to take Highway 32 to Ayutthaya for a glimpse of the former capital city to complete the circuit. At certain point of the journey, one feels the twin capitals should be brought back to life.

HOW TO GET THERE

It’s recommended to drive in a circuit during the journey to Lopburi to avoid taking the same route on the way back. The province is well served by highway 1. To go on the circuit, take highway 1 and turn right into highway 2 in Saraburi. Keep going straight on highway 2 until you reach Muak Lek where you need to turn left into road 2089 that leads to Wang Muang, home to fields of sunflowers. Use road 3017 for the drive to Pasak Cholasith Dam and to Lopburiy city for a tour of King Narai Palace and other historical buildings. From Lopburi, take road 3196 and 347 respectively to get to Ayutthaya via road 32 that leads to Bangkok.

WHERE TO STAY

Pasak Hillside Resort

Chai Badan district

Tel: (036) 462 428, (084) 099 6448

www.PasakHillside.com

Price range: Bt2,000-Bt2,500

Lop Buri Residence

Muang district

Tel: (036) 613 410-2

www.LopburiResidence.com

Price range: Bt600-Bt1,200

Thepthanee Hotel

Inside Ratchabhat Institute Thepsatree

Tel: (036) 411 982, (036) 411 029

Price: Bt400

Pattaraprapa Resort

Near Pasak Cholasith Dam

Tel: (036) 494 244, (036) 451277

Price Range: Bt800-Bt4,500

Narai Hill Golf Resort and Country Club

Muang district

Tel: (036) 426 545-6

www.NaraiHillGolf.com

Price range: Bt2,500-Bt3,500

Somapa Pasak Resort

Phattana Nikhom district

Tel: (081) 611 0608, (02) 734 8343

Prince range: Bt350-Bt750

WHERE TO EAT

Kin Sen

Muang district

Call (080) 123 4463

Chao Khuen

Road 3017, Phattana Nikhom district

Tel: (036) 494 030, (081) 947 2756

Nan Nam Pasak

Phattana Nikhom district

Tel: (036) 494 142

Krua Baan Khuen

Phattana Nikhom

Tel: (036) 494 008

Suan Aharn Than Tawan

Muang district

Tel: (036) 615 399, (081) 859 3849

White House Garden

Phraya Kamjad Road, Muang district

Tel: (036) 413 085, (081) 832 8510

Kaew Chao Chom

Naresuan Road, Muang district

Tel: (036) 627 899, (081) 930 0658

Blooms days

Lop Buri beckons with its sunflower harvest for the year

The Nation

The endless yellow fields of sunflowers set against the clear blue sky are the best introduction at this time of the year to the central province of Lop Buri.

This year, the province has announced a list of places where the sunflowers are expected to bloom one after another, along with many other outdoor activities for weekend visitors.

More than 10,000 rai are under flower cultivation each year, according to the Tourism Authority of Thailand office in Lop Buri, but the golden flowers bloom in different places at different times.

The first, if early, place where the flowers bloom, or have already bloomed, is Chong Sarika subdistrict. The flowers here tend to mature by November 15 and the best places to view them, even now, are between Sois 16 and 17 off the provincial highway heading from Lop Buri town to Phanattha Nikhom district.

The second burst of yellow is around the Sab Lek reservoir in Lop Buri town, usually until November 27.

The reservoir is an ideal place for camping, mountainbike riding, rock climbing, boating and hiking if you are the sort who has a short attention span and cannot stare at flowers for too long.

The last bout of blooming, also said to be the best, takes place at Chin Lae mountain, along with the Sunflower Blooming Festival between December 2 and 13.

Visitors can here climb up to a higher viewing place to get an eyeful of the large yellow fields of flower against the backdrop of the Chin Lae mountain.

If you want to go higher still, the local Paraguilding Club offers rides that should have you seeing yellow for a few days.

Weekend warriors could also drop in at the A03 Army Camp, a short ride from Chin Lae mountain. The goodspirited officers there lead you into the jungle for shooting, canoeing, cliff climbing and rappelling. A course on jungle survival, which includes taming the king cobra, is also on offer.

Lob Buri is 153 kilometres by road from Bangkok and many city-dwellers tend to wrap their sunflower trip with a short detour to Pasak Chonlasit Dam in Phanattha Nikhom.

If you are intent on saving fuel, rail travel is the best alternative.

The State Railway of Thailand, (02) 220 4567 extension 5217, offers a day trip from Bangkok to Lop Buri. Admission is Bt350 per person, and includes lunch, dinner and refreshment.

Into the distant past

The cheery sunflowers aren’t the only thing to see in Lop Buri – try the time tunnel at Pong Manao

Thomtong Tongnok

The Nation

Lop Buri, let’s see … Sunflowers? Gorgeous! Saw them last year. Monkey buffet? Yes, hilarious, been a couple of times now. How about digging up something amazing that’s been buried in the ground for thousands of years?

Now that sounds different.

Culture buffs will get a kick out of playing small-time archaeologist at a dig at the village of Pong Manao, 45 kilometres east of the dazzling sunflower fields of Phattana Nikhom district.

It might not be the Holy Grail that’s up for grabs, but there are some pretty cool human skeletal remains, stone flasks, pots and other vessels emerging from an ancient graveyard.

We arrived at the prehistoric site on a recent afternoon to be greeted by a young student guide.

“Good afternoon, everybody. My name is Kunpirom Yungsup – I’m your guide for today,” she began, as if reporting in front of her class. “Welcome to the archaeological site of Pong Manao. If you have any questions, please ask me and I’ll do my best.”

Pong Manao was discovered by treasure hunters in 2000. The local people soon reported them to the police, and the archaeological site was made safe for a careful, sanctioned dig.

In October that year, with the help of the Tourism Authority of Thailand, archaeology students from Silpakorn University unearthed a section of the site.

Kunpirom led us to the side of a deep, square pit in which the skeletons on several men were visible. It was quite a shock – cultural and otherwise.

Our guide must have spotted the astonishment on my face.

“Many, many human skeletons have been found in this area,” she said, “and it’s believed that many more remain unearthed.”

Findings thus far suggest Pong Manao was a settlement 3,000 years ago, occupied over the course of three distinct periods. People were first here in the late Bronze Age, circa 600 BC, then in the Iron Age from 500 BC to AD 570, and finally the early Dvaravati period, between the sixth and eighth centuries.

Human bones have been found of both sexes and all ages, along with artefacts including fragments of bracelets, stone adzes, earrings, grinding stones, whetstones and disks made of limestone, sandstone and basalt.

There are plenty of outdoor excavations where visitors can delve into the fascinating details. About 20 rai have been scoured so far, and a local conservation club, with academic support from Silpakorn and the tourism authority, have established a museum at Wat Pong Manao.

There, a large collection of artefacts – jewellery, beads, terracotta pieces and tools – are on display. It’s no Smithsonian, but this little community museum runs on heart. What the locals can’t afford, they make up for with spirit.

“I want it to be a centre of community knowledge that everyone can visit anytime,” said Somsuan Buranapong, head of the archaeological site and the natural-resources preservation club.

Planet of the apes

Set down in Lop Buri and you’ll find that the monkey is king

Steve Rhodes

Special to the Nation

It has been a long, hard journey filled with fitful slumbers and wild dreams, and when I finally stagger off the bus at the Lop Buri bus terminal, I can’t help feeling that I must still be dreaming, and that I have somehow wound up as an extra in a “Planet of the Apes” movie.

Monkeys are everywhere, swarming along power lines and periodically leaping down and helping themselves to some choice morsel from a noodle vendor’s cart before fleeing back to the safety of their lofty perches, just out of range of the enraged vendor’s slingshot.

I make my way across the street in search of a bowl of fortifying noodles and discover Nirundorn Luengsak-sri, an earnest young man of extraordinary talent and ability, who has transformed the humble thong sandal into an art form with some deft strokes of a sharp knife and a vivid imagination. His designs were originally inspired by the monkeys but he has since branched out into more ambitious and lavish models.

Prices range from about Bt200 upwards, depending on the complexity of the patterns. Being something of a thong buff, I promptly snap up several pairs.

Nirundorn tells me an interesting story.

“Monkeys run this place,” he says. He goes on to explain how the human population have even erected a temple in the middle of the town to accommodate the thousands of simians who populate the place.

The temple was built 800 years ago and has become the scene of an interesting annual event known as the Monkey Banquet.

Tradition demands that when you visit the temple and pray to the monkey god for help or advice, and actually get the help that you ask for, you must repay the monkeys with an offering of food. A local hotel owner who wanted to improve his business got wind of this and dropped by the temple to seek guidance.

Business boomed and he was so grateful that he now stages a massive feast at the temple every year where the monkeys gorge themselves on all manner of delicacies while the newspapers and television networks have a field day covering the event.

Nirundorn has asked the monkeys for help with his thong carving business and it is also doing very well. He suggests that I should pop round and have a look at the temple and then proceed on to the recently completed monkey hospital at the local zoo, which has been set up by the Wild Animal Rescue Foundation of Thailand to treat ageing monkeys who, not as agile as they used to be, have been involved in road accidents.

The hospital has four staff made up of two vets and a couple of wranglers who help subdue larger apes while they are having minor illnesses treated without anaesthetics.

Then there’s Colonel Virat Phupeangjai, once a director of the zoo. He retired four years ago and is now secretary of the Lop Buri branch of the Wild Animal Rescue Foundation.

Voluntary work at the hospital keeps him pretty busy but what spare time he has is devoted to writing. Recently he completed a book called “Mike”, a hilarious account of the life and times of one of the zoo’s more colourful characters, an orang-utan who was being smuggled out of Indonesia but was intercepted at Bangkok airport and sent to Lop Buri Zoo.

His subsequent adventures are chronicled in the colonel’s book which is lavishly illustrated and well worth a read. It’s available at the hospital for Bt95 and proceeds from the sale go towards buying much-needed equipment for the hospital, where visitors to the zoo are welcome to drop in.

In addition to Colonel Virat’s book, there is an interesting range of souvenirs, the sale of which also goes towards equipping the hospital.

All in all visiting this rather obscure little town was an eye-opening experience. Without the monkeys, Lop Buri would be just another provincial town in Thailand. The monkeys have put it on the map and attracted tourists who would otherwise have no reason to go there, thus greatly benefiting the town’s human population.

More information about the hospital can be gleaned from the Wild Animal Rescue Foundation website, www.warthai.org

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Ayutthaya on two wheels

See the subtler wonders of a bygone era without the expense, the crowds, the tour bus or even the elephants

Vipasai Niyamabha

The Nation

It’s little wonder that the roads of Siam’s old capital can actually get a little crowded when so many Bangkok residents head there for a cultural recharge.

Just an hour’s drive away, it’s a marvellous place to spend the weekend, with new things to discover on every visit.

Getting started

I’ve never taken the train to Ayutthaya, but many people do. The fare from Don Muang station is only Bt11, and from Hua Lamphong Bt20. Once there, a simple way to get around is to hire a bicycle for the day for Bt30 or a motorcycle for Bt200. Songtaew are also available at Bt300 per hour.

You can arrange your wheels at any of the rental booths around the railway station, but it might be better to wait until you’ve crossed the Pasak River to the Chao Prom Market. The price for the short ferry hop is Bt3 per passenger - but Bt2 extra if you’re bringing your bike.

So far you’ve spent at most Bt55, you’re in Ayutthaya’s main market and you’ve got transportation. Just heed the warnings about keeping your belongings safe - not where they might be snatched - and we’re on our way.

A circuit tour of the island

First-timers usually prefer to get straight to the heart of the historical park: the  impressive Phra Sri Sanphet, Mahathat and Rachaburana temples. All three charge entrance fees.

A more modest jaunt around the 12.5-kilometre U-Thong Road that rings the island historical park can be easily managed in a day, though the hot afternoon sun might tempt you to keep stopping for refreshments and other means of relief.

From the Chao Prom Market opposite the railway station, at the east end of the island, you can make your casual way to the Hua Ror Market and the Chandra Kasem Palace Museum opposite it.

The museum has its own historical importance as a former palace of the Ayutthaya kingdom and the residence of Crown Prince Naresuan. Abandoned in the sacking of the city by the Burmese in 1867, the palace was renovated during the reign of King Rama IV three decades later.

Nearby are Wat Sena Sanaram, a royal temple with “Rachaworaviharn” status and still home to monks, and the ruined Wat Khun Saen.

Further along are the mysterious ancient stones of Ratchapraditsathan Temple and, opposite, Wat Suwanndawas, with its stunning round chedi on an octagonal base.

Every corner of Ayutthaya has a story of its own to tell. This area was once a fort called Pratu Khao Pluak - “paddy gate” - next to a canal of the same name. Its chedis have been renovated by the government’s Fine Arts Department.

Few people give Wat Thammikarat, still further down the road, the attention it deserves. It has a reclining Buddha image inside a spacious hall, and elsewhere on the grounds fascinating architectural features, including the remains of a large chedi with a crooked spire, guarded by beautiful stucco  lions, and the huge principle hall with a tree growing against one wall.

When visitors return to the former capital they like to see something new, and for me this time I opted to bypass the lovely Wat Na Phra Meru and have a look at Cheong Tha Temple.

Surprisingly it’s quite photogenic, with the storied remnants of the principle hall and an ubosot tucked away behind small chedis. These are bedecked for an ordination with strands of colourful cloth.

Back across the bridge I stop at the Sri Suriyothai Pagoda, and then, finding myself halfway around the island, I picked up the pace and satisfied myself with brief glimpses at the rest of the sights.

Dining on the west side

The western part of the island has the lush Sri Sakharin Public Park, with loads of food stalls lining the road. Many motorists stop beneath the huge peacock flower trees and go for a stroll to buy some of the famous “Klong Sra Bua boat noodles”. They’re close enough to the genuine article, although Sra Bua canal and its waterborne vendors are actually some distance away.

A current favourite dish in Ayutthaya is shredded chicken noodles, and plenty of stalls keep up with the demand. Also increasingly popular is candyfloss roti - roti saimai - as is clear from the 20-odd stalls along U-Thong Road and in particularly in front of the hospital.

Riverside restaurants are abundant too in the area from Phet Fort to Wat Suwandaram, and all offer sunset dinner cruises.

Phet Fort at dusk is a pleasant place to laze by the riverbank. I just feel like resting here, not rushing back to return the bike. There’s only a short distance left to go, but this is the perfect time for gazing into the twilight with the old fortress on the Chao Phya as a backdrop, and savouring some of the spicy local somtam, the tastiest vegetarian dish around.

HOW TO GET THERE

Ayutthaya is well served by highways and main roads on all sides. Yet the easiest way to get there is by taking Highway 1 from Bangkok and then turning left into Road 32 which eventually connects with Road 309 leading to the heart of Ayutthaya.

Leaving Bangkok’s eastern suburbs, visitors take  the Eastern Ring Road 9 and then take the left turn into Highway 1 and the right turn into Road 32 that leads to Ayutthaya by way of Road 309.

WHERE TO STAY

Woraburi Ayodhaya Convention Resort

Tel: (035) 249 600-49, (02) 256 0890 ext 303-5

Visit: http://www.Woraburi.com

Price range: Bt2160-Bt11,700

Ayodhaya Riverside

Tel: (035) 234 873-7

Price range: Bt1,200-Bt2,500

Krungsri River Hotel

Tel: (035) 244 333

Visit: http://www.KrungsriRiver.com

Price range: Bt1,250-Bt5,000

Bann Khunpra

Tel: (035) 241 978

Visit: http://www.BannKunpra.com

Visit: welcome@bannkunpra.com

Price range: Bt250-Bt1,000

Uthong Inn

Tel: (035) 212 531-40, (035) 242 236

http://www.UthongInn.com

Price range: Bt1,200-Bt4,000

River View Place

Tel: (035) 241729-30

Price range: Bt1,500-Bt2,200

The Lima Place

Tel: (035) 801 808-10, (086) 889 2389

Visit: http://www.LimaPlace.com

E-mail: info@limaplace.com

Price range: Bt370-Bt800

Ayutthaya Thanee

Tel:(02) 673 3322, (02) 673 0966, (02) 211 9654

Price range: Bt950-Bt1,050

Suan Luang (inside Ratchabhat Institute)

Tel: (035) 245 537

Price range: Bt500-Bt600

WHERE TO EAT

(Downtown eateries)

Khoom Khun Muang (Thai)

Rojana Road

Tel: (035) 211 070

Khrua Khun Su (Thai)

Opposite Suan Sri Suriyothai

Tel: (035) 713 549, (089) 414 9282

Kuay Tiew Wat Yai (noodles)

Opposite Wat Yai

Tel: (035) 242 679

Khrua Ton Naam (Thai)

Uthong Road

Tel: (035) 252 514

Khrua Uthong (Thai, Vietnam)

Uthong Road,

Tel: (035) 321 729

Mangsawirat (vegetarian)

Klong Makamriang Road

Tel: (035) 243 423

Leka Bueng Phraram (Thai)

Pa Thon Road

Tel: (035) 321 746

(Riverside eateries)

Krathom Chao Phya (Thai)

Next to Phra Suriyothai Monument

Tel: (035) 398 200-1

Khrua Pom Phetch (Thai, Chinese)

Near Pom Phetch Fort

Tel: (035) 283 354

Khoom Krungsri (Thai)

About 500 metres from Suan Somdej Sri Nagarindra

Tel: (035) 211 676, (035) 210211

Chaai Naam (Thai, Chinese)

Uthong Road

Tel: (035) 252 201-3, 081 696 243-9

Sai Thong River (Thai)

Uthong Road, behind the governor’s residence

Tel: (035) 241 449, (035) 244 575

Baan Khun Phra (Thai)

Pa Thon Road

Tel: (035) 241 978, (081) 442 2742

Making merit by visiting nine Ayutthaya temples

Good fortune smiles on guests who spend time at historic wats

The Nation

There was a time when Thais travelled routinely between their homes and community temples. But then shopping malls, pubs and other seductive attractions sprang up to keep souls from the temple grounds.

However, it’s never too late to visit temples and attain peace with the Lord Buddha, according to Tourism Authority of Thailand’s Ayutthaya office. To you enrich your karma, the TAT has devised a “Visit Nine Temples” sightseeing-cum-merit-making programme that runs until January.

Ayutthaya’s TAT office recommends beginning at dawn with the area’s three most popular temples: Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon, Wat Phanan Choeng and Wat Mongkhonborphit.

Built in the 14th century, Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon stands beside with a chedi built by Ayutthaya’s King Naresuan to commemorate a military victory over the Burmese. And, like those ancient folks in Ayutthaya, you can count on this 700-year-old temple for supernatural protective power.

People seeking luck in trade and travel shouldn’t miss Wat Phanan Choeng. Built in 1324, where the Pasak and Chao Phya rivers join, the temple houses a respected Buddha image, Luang Pho To. Chinese traders, who braved the ocean to sail between their native land and Ayutthaya in the 14th century, believed that the image served as the guardian for travellers.

If a picture tells 1,000 words, the ruined brickwork of Ayutthaya’s historical sites tell 1,000 stories. Strolling from one temple to another is like travelling in a time warp.

With a beautiful blend of pleasure and pilgrimage, the “Visit Nine Temples” programme takes you beyond the three grandest temples to Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Wat Chai Wattanaram, Wat Mahathat, Wat Na Phra Meru and two other temples.

It’s possible to visit all nine temples in one day. That might sound like an Olympic record, but Ayutthaya isn’t Athens. Siam’s old capital is smaller and so full of temples that it’s possible to do the entire circuit and still have spare time for side trips to local noodle shops and restaurants.