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Falls of plenty

With its cascades, parks and rolling hills, the nearby province of Nakhon Nayok makes for a great weekend trip – just watch out for the crowds

Manote Tripathi
The Nation

For Bangkokians, especially those living in the eastern suburbs, Nakhon Nayok is tantamount to having a waterfall in the backyard. The drive to the province’s three major cascades – Sarika, Wang Takhrai and Nang Rong – is easy and generously rewarded with fresh air, rolling hills and unlimited fun in the crystal-clear water.

At just 105 kilometres or about an hour’s drive from the capital, the hilly province is well accessed by major thoroughfares (Highway 1, the Eastern Ring Road, and then Road 305), though drivers may prefer the longer but more pastoral route through Min Buri, Nong Chok and Prachin Buri’s Ban Sang district,
Nong Chok, populated mainly by Muslims, is carpeted with sprawling paddy fields that blend seamlessly with fruit orchards and the rice fields of Bangkok’s neighbouring provinces. Once out of Nong Chok, the green fields, which stretch to the mountains of Khao Yai National Park and are occasionally broken up by canals, rivers and hamlets, do much to absorb the sun’s glare.

The tranquil, yet nondescript riverside Ban Sang hamlet is Thailand’s answer to a Tolkien Hobbit village, with wooden single-storey structures that are about the same height as the average person. Many houses don’t have a door, with occupants using a row of wooden planks to close off the front. Try to get there around lunchtime to taste the local fare, or time your arrival for late afternoon when the riverside market springs into action. Although the food is nothing special, it is home-cooked and tastes better than anything you’ll find at the gas station’s convenience store.

From Ban Sang, the drive to Nakhon Nayok on Road 3076 is relaxing, with the view of Khao Yai drawing closer and a pleasing countryside smell emanating from the rain-drenched earth.

Close to the city centre is the archaeological site of Dong Lakhon, an ancient city that belonged to the Dvaravati Empire from the ninth to the 11th century and then to the Khmer Empire from the 12th to the 14th. Several artefacts have been discovered but all that’s left today are the earthen moats and some broken pottery.

The famous waterfalls are easily accessed from Road 3049, and are a short walk away from the car park. They are also extremely popular with teenagers so are packed out at weekends.

With an admission fee of Bt40, Sarika Waterfall is the most scenic and is served by a steep stairway that rises and dips with the hill, so is not ideal for elderly or the wheelchair-bound. During the rainy season, the cool, clear and clean water is perfect for a long dip. Visitors can climb the steps to different levels, each of which has a pool of its own. Signs warn visitors to leave if the water becomes muddy.

With a Bt100 admission fee per car and four occupants, Wang Takhrai Waterfall is more of a whitewater rafting course and a popular weekend picnic destination for families as well as for throngs of teenagers who ride their inner tubes down the stream. Visitors can drive in a circuit inside the park or park their vehicles and rest under the big trees near the waterway.

Those who prefer not to picnic should head to Nang Rong Waterfall where plenty of restaurants have set up for business around the natural attraction. In fact, these days Nang Rong looks more like a big restaurant with a waterfall as a bonus than the other way round but if you enjoy communing with nature while inhaling the heady scent of gai yang, this is for you. On weekdays, it must be said, the park is considerably calmer.

More adventurous types go beyond the waterfalls and have fun rafting or canoeing on the Nakhon Nayok River in one of the crafts offered by one of tour companies located on both sides of Road 3049.

There’s more adventure to be found at Chulachomklao Royal Military Academy, which offers a range of tourist-friendly action programmes, from jumping off a tower and abselling from a cliff to forest trekking, mountain biking and kayaking.

With countless adventure activities to fall back on, Nakhon Nayok offers unrivalled backyard thrills, even though the natural attractions, especially the ones overrun by tourists, could be better managed.

HOW TO GET THERE

Nakhon Nayok is easily accessible via main roads and the most direct route is to follow Highway 1 or the Eastern Ring Road, then turn right into Road 305 before joining Road 33, which connects with Road 3049. The major waterfalls are located on the four-lane Road 3049.

For the more scenic route, leave eastern Bangkok on Road 304. Then turn left into Road 3481 and drive to Ban Sang in Prachin Buri. Turn left on to 3293, which links with Road 3076 for the drive northwards to Nakhon Nayok. From Road 3076, turn right onto Road 305 at the Sam Sao intersection and continue to Nakhon Nayok and Road 3049. On the way back, take Road 305, which connects with the Eastern Ring Road for easy access to Bangkok.

WHERE TO STAY

Home and Hill Resort
Sarika, Muang district
Tel: (037) 385 336, (084) 147 3290
www.HomeAndHillResort.com
Price range: Bt1,400-Bt8,000

Ton Sung Resort
Sarika, Muang district
Tel: (037) 328 273
www.TonSungResort.com
Price range: Bt1,000-Bt1,200

Baan Banana Resort
Khao Phra, Muang district
Tel: (085) 695 4559, (085) 695 4560,
www.BaanBananaResort.com
Price range: Bt1,680-Bt13,200

Ban Rim Nam Homestay
Sarika, Muang district
Tel: (086) 530 0371
www.BanRimNam.com
Price range: Bt4,000-Bt6,000

Green View Resort
Sarika, Muang district
Tel: (085) 331 8918 , (081) 804 5737
www.GreenView-Resort.com
Price range: Bt1,200-Bt1,500

Ban Pa Rim Khuen Resort
Hin Tang, Muang district
Tel: (037) 384 070, (089) 505 2102
www.BanPaResort.com
Price range: Bt1,200-Bt7,500

Ban Kaew Resort
Sarika, Muang district
Tel: (081) 400 4940, (081) 985 1009
www.BanKaewResort.com
Price range: Bt1,200-Bt3,000

Rabiang Prai
Khao Phra, Muang district
Tel: (037) 386 432, (081) 812 5165
www.RabiangPrai.net
Price range: Bt1,500-Bt6,500

WHERE TO EAT

Ban Khun Loong
Sarika, Muang district
Tel: (037) 328 391

Loong Ngiam
Sarika, Muang district
Tel: (037) 385 110

Laem Thong
Sarika-Nang Rong Road, Muang district
Tel: (037) 311 695

Sichol
Inside Sida Resort, Sarika-Nang Rong Road, Muang district
(037) 311 600

Sam Sao
Rangsit-Nakhon Nayok Road, Muang district
Tel: (037) 312 108

Lert Rot Pochana
Near Wat Udom, Muang district
Tel: (037) 311 978, (037) 313 045

Larb Pratapien
Near Chulachomklao Royal Military Academy
Tel: (037) 326 378

Thoong Ngoen Thoong Thong
Chaiyapan Road, Muang district
Tel: (037) 321 227

Nat-Thip
Sarika-Nang Rong Road (KM 9)
Tel: (037) 328 318, (081) 944 4275

Khrua Manao
Sarika-Nang Rong Road (KM 9)
Tel: (037) 328 327, (037) 328 313

Guest House
Near Chulachomklao Royal Military Academy
Tel: (037) 393 010-4, (037) 326 871-6