[Show as slideshow]

Day out at ‘Big Mountain’

An ancient civilisation comes back to life at this superbly restored historical site

Manote Tripathi

The Nation

Buri Ram’s sprawling Chaloem Phra Kiat district is typical of the countryside in the lower Northeast of Thailand – mile after mile of arid, treeless land broken up by the occasional shabby village. The soaring daytime temperatures, dusty roads, and parched farmland say a great deal about the stoicism of the local people. So it comes as something of a surprise that amidst all this wilderness are traces of a prosperous civilisation – no fewer than 60 ancient Khmer temples that date back a millennium.

In fact, the landscape is very Khmer with baray (reservoirs) visible on all sides of the ruins and an orderliness and discipline permeating the symmetrical architecture of the ornate ancient monuments even though they all lie in ruins.

Only 120 kilometres from Nakhon Ratchasima, or 410km from Bangkok, Buri Ram offers a journey back in time to the ancient Khmer Kingdom, making it an ideal destination for anyone with a penchant for all things Khmer. For many visitors, the must-see destination is Prasat Phanom Rung (meaning “big mountain”).

Phanom Rung is truly remote – and a half-day’s drive from Bangkok - so a full weekend is required for this trip. It’s is possible to visit Buri Ram by leaving Bangkok at dawn and driving straight through, but more experienced weekenders prefer to include Buri Ram as part of a Nakhon Ratchasima or Prachin Buri-Sa Kaew itinerary.
This is a good idea because Buri Ram is only an hour’s drive from these provinces and there will be enough time to explore other Khmer monuments if one wishes.

Those coming by way of Nakhon Ratchasima, usually stop for lunch at Lam Takhong Dam in Pak Chong before continuing the journey on Road 24. Others take the more scenic route through Wang Nam Kheow with its numerous vineyards and great coffee shops on Road 304. From Sa Kaew, Buri Ram is best accessed through Road 348 that runs past national parks and another must-see spot, Prasat Sadokkokthom near the Cambodia border.

By far the biggest and most beautiful monument in Buri Ram, Prasat Phanom Rung, 40km from the gateway district of Nang Rong, stands atop an extinct volcano overlooking Chaloem Phra Kiat’s rural landscapes, which are dotted with Phanom Rung’s satellite temples like Prasat Muang Tam (eight km away) and the nearby Prasat Baan Bu and Prasat Khao Prai Bak. Given the influx of visitors during the weekends, it’s best to spare a few hours to take in the temple.

Built between the 10th and 13th century, Phanom Rung was originally a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva to symbolise Mount Kailash, his heavenly abode. After a series of restorations during the 12th century, the temple was converted in the 14th century to a Mahayana Buddhist monastery by King Jayavarma VII.

Most visitors park their cars at the entrance on the foothill and walk up the stairway to the east-facing main tower atop the hill, taking in the fabulous sights along the way, which include Phlab Phla pavilion and the three naga bridges.

Many people flock to the temple to observe the sunrise and sunset that occur in alignment with the 15 doors of the temple only four times a year in March and April, then again in September and October.

Another Khmer edifice that should not be missed is Prasat Muang Tam, believed to have been built between 967 and 1097 AD of the pre-Ankorean period and dedicated to Shiva. Take time too to stop at the 1,000-year old kilns along the way, which date back to the 10th century and served as a production centre for Khmer ceramics.

After the temple tour, visitors will almost certainly return to Bangkok with a different attitude towards Buri Ram. Dusty and arid it may be, but it was truly a civilised society that still commands respect.

HOW TO GET THERE

Buri Ram can be accessed through Nakhon Ratchasima and Sa Kaeo. From Bangkok, follow Highway 2 to Pak Chong’s Lam Takhong Dam, then turn right into Road 24 to Chok Chai and then Nang Rong. Take Road 2117 and 2221 to get to Prasat Phanom Rung.

From Sa Kaew, follow Road 348 northwards to Nang Rong. From Bangkok, it’s possible to get to Nang Rong by way of Wang Nam Kheow by taking Road 304 and then connecting with Road 24 to Nang Rong.

Road 304 is the most scenic, but the roadside views on Highway 2, especially in the Lam Takong Dam area, are also very impressive too.

WHERE TO STAY

California International House
Sangkakris Burana Road, Nang Rong,
Tel: (044) 631 277, (089) 947 5449, (081) 808 3347
www.GeoCities.com/California8gh
Price range:  Bt300-Bt900

Phanom Rung Resort
Tapek-Phanom Rung Road, Nang Rong
Tel: (044) 631 231
Price range: Bt500-Bt1,300

Nang Rong Hotel
Pradit Road, Nang Rong
Tel: (044) 631 014, (044) 631 465
www.NangRongHotel.com
Price range: Bt200-Bt600

Sakulkaew Resort
Nang Rong-Buri Ram Road, Nang Rong
Tel: (089) 583 3564, (044) 624 534
www.SakulkaewResort.com
Price range: Bt250-Bt550

Baan Soh Resort
Nang Rong-Buri Ram Road, Nang Rong
Tel: (044) 631 631, (081) 660 0979, (081) 660 2223
www.GeoCities.com/B_SOR2002
Price range: Bt350-Bt1,500

CBIRD Centre
Chok Chai- Det Udom Road, Nang Rong
Tel: (044) 657 145-7
www.PDA.or.th/NangRong
Price range: Bt450-Bt1,300

Honey Inn
Soi Srikool, Nang Rong
Tel: (044) 622 825, (081) 075 9972
www.HoneyInn.com
Price range: Bt200-Bt350

WHERE TO EAT

Suan Aharn Baan Soh
Tel: (044) 631 631

Suan Aharn Tu Moo Hao
Nang Rong-Buri Ram Road, Nang Rong
Tel: (044) 612 877

Laksana Kha Moo (Pork Knuckle)
Chok Chai-Det Udom Road, Nang Rong
Tel: (044) 631 158

Baan Kap Tonmai
Chok Chai-Det Udom Road, Nang Rong
Tel: (044_ 631 635

Phetkasem
Chok Chai-Det Udom Road, Nang Rong
Tel: (044) 631 992