Wild times at Khao yai

Friendly locals and mysterious animals make a trip to the national park a real adventure

William Baldwin
The Nation

As the name suggests, the problem with wildlife is that it’s often never there when you want it and often loitering in the shadows when it’s not welcome. During a recent visit to the delightful Khao Yai National Park, a few hours northeast of Bangkok, I had plenty of time to consider this conundrum.

After a thunderstorm I ventured down a forest path as the afternoon sun re-emerged and the trees rang with incessant cicada buzzing. I hadn’t seen anyone for an hour when I realised two monkeys were eyeing me from the path ahead. Then I was aware that two of the little gymnasts were clambering in the canopy above my head and other ominous noises were coming from the jungle around me.

“Nice apes,” I mumbled pathetically.

Macho types may bristle at my timidity but I’ve had too many run-ins in India with monkeys to brush them off as harmless little performers. In India, the furry primates infest the cities, ripping up power lines and breaking into homes, and the locals are often wary of them, carrying sticks while the dogs flee if confronted with a set of monkey fangs.

I once saw a tourist in India who had lost a chunk of his leg after he finished second in a tussle with one of the sinuous little simians. Anyway, I retreated down the path and picked up a stick and a stone, only to almost tread on a large reptile, which looked like something from Jurassic Park as it shot me a beady eye and languidly slipped away. I had been told not to swim at sunset, as the rivers were croc-infested and dusk was their favourite time to hunt for dinner. I suspected this monster’s belly was beginning to rumble and my stick suddenly seemed rather inadequate.

The other side of this experience came later in the evening when a friendly group of tourists invited me to join their night safari.

Now, from the safety of a swift jeep, surrounded by other people who I was confident I could beat in a sprint, I felt completely happy to inspect any number of jungle giants. Inevitably, however, an hour of patrolling the park, shooting a powerful beam of light across the countryside, only revealed an enormous number of moths and deer. Obviously this is hardly a surprise as a lone visitor, wandering silently through a forest, is far less likely to draw attention to himself than a pack of intoxicated locals on a road blasting out a 400-watt beam as they speed around on the back of a sizeable truck.

For the rest of the time, trying to negotiate one of Thailand’s largest national parks without a car meant that I was dependent on the help of strangers and on several occasions I was deeply touched by their generosity.

They went out of their way to drop me at my campsite, at bus stops and help me explore waterfalls that would otherwise have been out of bounds. I was force-fed barbecued treats and plied with alcohol at my campsite. The excellent campsites are sociable, family-oriented places with good restaurants and spotless shower blocks that would put many European sites to shame. If you don’t have your own tent and sleeping bag, expect to pay more than Bt200 for a night, although this price will come down per head depending on how many people you wish to squeeze into your municipal dome tent. The distinct increase in altitude from Bangkok means a reasonable sleeping bag is essential as the nights have a refreshing chill, which is most welcome after spending much time in the muggy city. The Khao Yai air tastes so pure compared with the gloopy smog of Bangkok that it could be bottled for sale.

I was lucky enough to bump into a young chap called Knot, who works as a flight steward for Thai Airways and spends much of his time on his native soil in the small home he built himself on the edge of the park.

An amiable chap, Knot invited me to join him on his future visits to the park, which has Unesco World Heritage status, normally an indication anywhere in the world that you’re in for a treat.

Knot had an encyclopaedic knowledge of the park’s trails and told me to check for leeches after I’d got drenched in a tropical downpour: I found two bloodsucking worms enjoying a meal on my ankles. When I picked them off they descended the log where I placed them like a child’s Slinky Spring making its way down stairs.

Knot said the park becomes more crowded at the weekends but during my mid-week visit it was possible to walk for several hours without seeing a soul.

The different altitudes in the enormous 2,712-square-kilometre reserve have enabled a diverse set of ecosystems to develop. On some of the higher spots in the park, the trees thin out and the scenery opens into delightful meadows that are like European foothills. The air was laden with floral scents and thick with butterflies and an array of exotic birds, including a few hornbills that swooped around me. I had to pinch myself to remember I was only a few hours from the sprawling capital.

If only I could convince myself that the Thai wildlife was as friendly as the Thai visitors, then Khao Yai would offer the ideal break as the heat increasingly throttles the capital.

HOW TO GET THERE

At 259 kilometres from Bangkok, Nakhon Ratchasima is a mere two hours’ drive. From Bangkok, follow Highway 1 that leads to Saraburi, the gateway to Isaan, where you have to turn right into Highway 2 (Mitraphab Road) for the drive to Klang Dong and Khao Yai in Pak Chong. In Pak Chong, turn right into Road 2090 that leads all the way to Khao Yai. It is possible to exit the park through Prachin Buri via Road 3077.

WHERE TO STAY

Khao Yai National Park
Inside the park
Tel: (02) 562 0760
http://www.dnp.go.th
Price range: Bt800-Bt9,000

Khao Yai Hostel
In the back of Klang Dong Fruit Market
Tel: (044) 328 277, (089) 668 3448
http://www.KhaoYaiHostel.com
Price range: Bt150-Bt1,600

Baan Klai Fah
Pakchong district
Tel: (085) 365 4142
http://www.BaanKlaiFah.com
Price range: Bt350-Bt1,800

Khao Yai Fah Sai
Pak Chong
Tel: (081) 203 8724, (083) 603 3317
http://www.KhaoYaiFahSai.com
Price range: Bt700-Bt1,100

PB Valley
Pak Chong
Pansuek-Kudkla Road, Pak Chong district
Tel: (036) 226 395
Price range: Bt2,500-Bt5,000

Ban Mai Chay Nam
Kohkaew Village, Pak Chong
Tel: (044) 314 236, (081) 660 2826
http://www.BanMaiChayNam.com
Price range: Bt900-Bt2,000

Farm Chok Chai Camp
Mitraphab Road, Pak Chong
Tel: (02) 532 2846, (02) 998-9381 ext 155-157
http://www.FarmChokChai.com
Price range: Bt3,490-Bt3,990

Greenery Resort
Located 2.5 km from Khao Yai’s entrance
Tel: (044) 297 224-5
http://www.GreeneryResort.com
Price range: Bt3,400-Bt7,800

Khao Yai Hut
Near Khao Yai
Tel: (044) 297 394-5
Price range: Bt1,250-Bt4,800

Juldis Khao Yai Resort and Spa
Thanarat Road
Tel: (044) 297 297, (02) 556 0251-6
http://www.KhaoYai.com
Price range: Bt3,000-Bt4,800

Bu Trai Country View
Wang Nam Khiao district
Tel: (044) 228 422
http://www.BuTraiCV.com
Price range: Bt1,200-Bt3,000

Tako Rai Homestay
Opposite Tako School, Wang Nam Khiao
Tel: (081) 967 5749
http://www.TakoRaiHomestay.ThiewThai.com
Price range: Bt700-Bt1,200

View Suay Far Sai
Wang Nam Khiao
Tel: (081) 981 4810
http://www.ViewSuayFarSai.com
Price range: Bt500-Bt11,000

Baan Rai Kulawanit
Wang Nam Khiao
Tel: (044) 228 400, (02) 811 8308-10
Price range: Bt1,500-Bt4,800

WHERE TO EAT

Baan Maai Chaai Naam
Pak Chong
Tel: (044) 314 236

Café de Buas
Thanarat Road (km 14), Pak Chong
Tel: (086) 780 2626

The Little Cowboy
Mitraphap Road (km 163)
Tel: (044) 315 582

Khrua Pradoo
Wang Nam Kheow
Tel: (044) 228 369

Laan Kao
Wang Nam Kheow
Tel: (044) 228 063

Khrua Rim Kuen
Wang Nam Kheow
(044) 249 064

Ton Naam Steak
Wang Nam Kheow
(044) 244 015

Incredible Khao Yai

Birdsong on the elephant trail, multi-hued mushrooms at your feet. What urbanite wouldn’t feel better exploring our greatest national park?

Weeranuch Puttachartsaewee,
Nattareewan Sirichantarat
The Nation

If you pack your bags now and head for the vast forest refuge that is Khao Yai National Park, it won’t be the first time a burned-out Bangkokian has fled the scene for greener surroundings. By all accounts, a single night’s stay there in the bosom of nature can be unforgettable, even life-changing.

Khao Yai, Thailand’s original national park, is as huge as its name implies, sprawling across four provinces – Nakhon Ratchasima, Saraburi, Nakhon Nayok and Prachin Buri.

Its rich biodiversity has long attracted urbanites, particularly those from the stone canyons of Bangkok just two hours’ drive away.

So pack those bag and get in the car or on a bus and spend the travel time recharging your batteries ready for the healthily imminent forest trek.

At the park you have to choose among the five main routes into the looming woods.

The first covers 5.4 kilometres from Don Tiew to the Nong Phak Chi Reservoir, and is pretty exciting because it crosses streams, hills and grasslands.

From Don Tiew to Mor Sing To it’s a 2.7km hike through dense forest with a reasonable chance of spotting some resident wildlife.

The 3km Nong Phak Chi trail affords an opportunity to see huge banyan trees and the nests of hornbills, if not the actual tenants themselves.

The more adventurous can trudge a full 8km from the visitors’ centre to the Haew Suwat waterfall.

Then there’s the 3.1km Pha Kluay Mai-to-Haew Suwat waterfall stroll that takes in the wild orchids lining the little stream of Lam Takhong.

“The last route is best suited to families, since the distance isn’t too long and yet it’s full of different flora and fauna,” says park ranger Anantasak Wonghan, listing species from tiny ferns to huge eaglewoods among the latter.

“There are a lot of full-grown eaglewoods that are over a hundred years old. The wood is used in incense, and the trees are becoming very rare now.”

Anantasak reminds you to look down as well as up, though, because there are “trekking ferns” travelling almost as fast as you are through the undergrowth, hauling themselves along by their leaves. When a leaf touches the ground, a sprout grabs hold, and it’s another giant leap for fernkind.

If you didn’t know that, the trail is one huge classroom, especially when it comes to herbs, which will happily demonstrate their therapeutic qualities if you’ll just pay attention. They come in very handy indeed if you’re suddenly feeling feverish or, perish the thought, start bleeding.

And if you’re lost, just look for bamboo, which always lean toward the east.

While the dry season means the creeks have little water and few fish, you can spot animals, or at least traces of them, like the imprint left by a dozing elephant.

“This shows that this route is the elephants’ usual walkway despite its narrowness and steepness,” Anantasak notes. He also points out chunks of beehives tossed aside by honey-hungry bears.

For quick learners, there’s a sixth route that’s just 800 metres. Starting right in the backyard of the park office, the stone and brick path is fast and convenient and still manages to take you past interesting plants of all sizes, including colourful fungi, and across a rope bridge that tosses in a bit of a challenge.

Even if the large wildlife proves elusive, there are plenty of grim little beasts on view, like not-little-at-all centipedes, and blood-sucking leeches that menace visitors during the wet season because they’re undercover as bits of bark.

Night-time, of course, boosts your chances of a major wildlife encounter. A little luck will present some barking deer or even a family of feeding elephants.

The rangers are always on hand, ready to illuminate the animals with a flashlight, which displays the animals looking back at you. Perhaps they’re out for a human-spotting hike.

Having been awakened early by the din of thousands of birdcalls, you’ll be wanting to get a look at the park’s feathered alarm clocks. Bird guide and binoculars in hand, you can hike to their feeding grounds with the park officer.

Among the most common are the hornbill (a symbol of fertility and love!), the red-bearded bee eater and the Asian fairy bluebird.

If you control your annoyance at being awake at 5am and keep quiet, they’ll put on a fancy warbling, tail-tossing show for you.

And while the morning fog still lingers, you can ascend through the mist to the cliff at Pha Daew Dai. At 1,000 metres above sea level, it’s like heaven on earth.

The road to heaven, however, is paved with precariousness. The forest along the way is different from down below, all mossy and shared by Himalayan black bears, wild bulls and elephants. They’re there to make you appreciate the cliff top even more.

Further adventure awaits in the form of rafting the Hin Pherng and Lam Takhong rapids. The rafts are provided, as are bicycles if you’re in the mood for a pedal.

Elsewhere each evening, the park’s bats and the sky’s stars need watching. Ask about the best times to visit for some nocturnal neck-bending, but keep in mind that you can stay a long time at Khao Yao to await ideal viewing conditions.

There are a dormitory and youth lodges, and camping grounds at Pha Kluay Mai and Lam Takhong, where tents and other equipment are available for rent.

For more information, call Khao Yai National Park at (02) 731 9002, or fax (09) 844 5936.

Vintage Thailand

It’s a heady drive into the wine country hills of Saraburi and Nakhon Ratchasima, where you can see first-hand a whole new industry being cultivated for the world

Vipasai Niyamabha
The Nation

They may be far away from the world-famous wine regions, but don’t underestimate a visit to our local vineyards, which can all be reached from Bangkok in just two hours.

Winery tours are a great way to get out in the countryside and sample the fruits of the land, and you can meet the farmers who will one day be revered among winemakers as true pioneers.

Saraburi and Nakhon Ratchasima are havens among Thai connoisseurs. The signs are everywhere as you travel down the Friendship Highway between the two centres, indicating clusters of grape farms with directional arrows and the number of kilometres to go.

More than one grower with vineyards along the low hills of eastern Thailand envisions that someday the region will be well-known for its grape products – and its fine wine.

The growth of the local wine industry has been slow but impressive. This year there are two wineries in Nakhon Ratchasima and many more in the development stage.

The first in the area was founded in 1992 by Piya Brirombhakdi of the Boon Rawd Brewery Co, makers of popular Singha beer. It’s in the hills of Khao Yai National Park, 125 kilometres north of Bangkok.

The property in Pyayen district occupies 324 hectares at 300 metres above sea level.
“We started to grow grapes here in 1992, then built the winery in 1997,” says Prayut Piangbunta, the manager of Khao Yai Winery.

And indeed, visitors can see the old grapes’ “big spike” in wineries, showing their improved pesticides and greater experience with the varieties that grow well at this enormous vineyard.

Today the Khao Yai Winery is the best-known attraction in the area for its scenery, wine and other grape products, as well as its charming PB Valley Resort and a restaurant whose balcony gazes across the lovely vista.

Village Farm in Wang Nam Khiew district is regarded as the province’s second great winery, producing wine with the Chateau des Brumes and Village Farm Nouveau label.
The farm covers 32 hectares of high land more than 500 metres above sea level, an area slightly hilly with moderate up and down slopes in Baan Pai Ngam village, to the northeast of Khao Yai National Park.

Village Farms has its own beautiful combination of the farm accommodations, restaurant, vineyards and winery. Its inn even earned a mention in the Tourism Authority of Thailand’s “Unseen Paradise” promotion.

The latest addition to the winery tour, GranMonte, is owned by Visooth and Sakuna Lohitnavy. Its 16-hectare vineyard has been growing mainly Shiraz and Chenin Blanc grapes from French rootstock since 1999.

Proud of its GranMonte Vintage Collection 2002, the family vineyard has no winery of its own. Khao Yai Winery handles production. Still, GranMonte Farm in Asoke Valley is a scenic stop on any weekend.

The most cherished centuries-old wine grapes are cultivated between the 30th and 50th parallels of latitude in both the southern and northern hemispheres.

Prayut says Thai wines are referred to as “New Latitude” vintages, cultivated at the exotic tropical latitude of 14.3 degrees north of the equator.

“This is the showcase for the potential of Thailand’s youthful wine industry,” writes JC Eversole, wine columnist for The Nation.

Prayut agrees, and hopes the region’s development will follow that of the “New World” wines from Australia and the US, which themselves were still widely disregarded by wine snobs just 20 years ago.

Prayut notes that today wine from these regions are among the world’s best-sellers.
Many local wine lovers are hoping Northeast Thailand will be just like California’s Napa region was 20 years ago, with a spirit of experimentation and discovery.

“I’ve seen consistent improvements,” says Virawat Cholvanich of Village Farm, adding that it takes years for reputations to bloom.

Vineyard trails

Take Route 2089 or 2224 around the sunflower-bedecked fields of Muak Lek district toward Wang Muang district, perhaps stopping at one of the steak restaurants along the way – there’s very good ostrich steak to sample. You can savour the deep-fried curry puffs at the famous Chok Chai Farm and stop to buy grape juice and wine at Khao Yai Winery and GranMonte Vineyard.

End the excursion with a scenic drive right across Khao Yai National Park for a visit at a delightful Chateau des Brumes winery and Village Farm in Nakhon Ratchasima’s Wang Nam Kheow district.

Wine along the road

PB Valley Khao Yao Winery

PB Khaoyai Reserve Shiraz 2001: rich and ripe, spicy with modest prune and plum flavours.

PB Khaoyai Reserve Chenin Blanc 2003: rich and inviting, offering pineapple, citrus tangs and smoky and honey notes.

GranMonte Vineyard

2001 Premier Chenin Blanc –refreshingly crisp, soft on the palate and has a smooth melony and musky flavour.

2001 Premier Shiraz – tantalising fruity and spicy tastes, peppery aromas and sweet, full flavoured grapes.

2002 Celebration Chenin Blanc – breaths light melon and floral aromas and shows substantial body ( by JC Eversole)

2002 Celebration Shiraz – evinces ripe plum intensity, medium body to compliment duck, grilled lamb or beef. (by JC Eversole)

Chateau des Brumes Winery & Village Farms

Chateau des Brumes reserve 2002 and 2003 – full-bodied wine with a delectable nose of leather and wood

Chateau des Brumes Prestige 2003 – a medium to full-bodied red with pronounced toast aromas, blessed with bright colour.

A vintage outing

There are no vast vineyards in Korat, but the miniature wine tours are great

Phoowadon Duangmee
The Nation

Khao Yai may not be the Napa Valley, and Mitraphap Road to Nakhon Ratchasima (Korat) is certainly no languorous California highway, but there’s a certain appeal to a “Sideways”-style road trip through the Asoke Valley to Khao Yai.

The GranMonte vineyard is hosting its own wine festival today through Monday to celebrate the bottling of three new vintages.

“We’ll give everyone a tasting as well as a tour of the estate,” says owner Visooth Lohitnavy, himself a winemaker.

With only 13 hectares of Shiraz and Chenin Blanc grapes in cultivation, GranMonte is considered a “boutique winemaker” – small, yet able to make fine wine.

The small estate and other vineyards like PB Valley in Nakhon Ratchasima are popular destinations for wine lovers, especially from October to December when weekenders from the city are a-prowl for cool country breezes.

“Primavera 2003, Kirimaya 2004, and The Heritage 2005 will be introduced at our estate over the weekend,” Visooth says.

Adding more colours to the whites and reds at the GranMonte Wine Festival are offerings from seven Thai wineries, including PB Valley, Monsoon Valley, Chateau de Loei and Chateau des Brumes.

Some of the vintages have received enthusiastic reviews at international wine festivals.

“The wineries will have their wines sold at special prices during the festival,” says Visooth, who is also a president of the Thai Wine Association.

Besides the wine tastings and vineyard tour, GranMonte will also offer drawing lessons for wannabe artists among the children attending, who might well be inspired by the picturesque vineyard.

Bring your corkscrew

GranMonte Estate is 11 kilometres off Friendship Highway in Nakhon Ratchasima’s Pak Chong district. If driving from Bangkok, make a U-turn after the MP Gas Station at the Km 144 milestone. Then turn left onto Phansuk-Kudkla Road. Follow the GranMonte signs for 11km.

For more information, call (02) 653 1522 or (036) 227 334-5, or visit www.granmonte.com.

Visiting the home of silk

Somluck Srimalee
The Nation
Nakhon Ratchasima

There are plenty of opportunities to buy fine Thai silk from Jim Thompson outlets in Bangkok but an invitation to visit the company’s farm in Nakhon Ratchasima province is not all that frequent.

The Jim Thompson Farm is 260 kilometres from Bangkok, amid the stunning scenery of Pak Thong Chai district, one of the famous silk-weaving villages of the Kingdom.

Although the Jim Thompson Farm was established in 1988, it decided to open its doors to visitors only in 2000. With balmy wind blowing throughout the Northeast, now is a good occasion to pay the farm a visit. The farm is open each weekend this month until January 2. So, hurry up. Admission is Bt30 for adults and Bt20 for children.

This is the place where you can appreciate the complexities of silk production. You can view the whole process of silk production at the farm – from eggs to cocoons, and from cocoons to silk yarns.

Farmers tend to big orchards of mulberry trees, which are meant for raising silkworms. You can arrange a farm tractor to view the mulberry plantations. The farm contains two breeds of mulberry trees – the first is an original mulberry and the second was developed by the agriculture department of the Agriculture and Cooperative Ministry. It’s called the “Buriram 60” variety.

Jariya Meechuen, Jim Thompson’s farm manager, is an able guide. She explains that the original mulberry has small leaves but the Buriram 60 has wide leaves that are better for raising silkworms.

Along the tractor’s route, you can stop to see the life cycle of silkworms. Actually, a silkworm is not a worm at all, but a caterpillar that transforms into a moth.

Jariya says that tiny eggs have to come from moths which the Thais call “midnight butterflies”. These moths are too weak to fly and unable to crawl more than a foot. They produce quality silk compared to others of their ilk.

There’re not only thousands of silkworms at Nakhon Ratchasima but also a flourishing trade in growing vegetables. The mushroom farms look pretty wholesome and the flowers this season look so colourful.

Not far from flowers, you discover the largest pumpkin you would find in a market. The farm has several breeds of pumpkins, cantaloupe, honey watermelons and sweet corns.

Jariya says that visitors can buy farm produce, including things such as vegetables and mulberry tea.

After opening the farm to public, Jim Thompson Farm has welcomed an average of 10,000 visitors a month. Income has been about Bt5 million a month.

“Actually high income is not our aim. Instead, Jim Thompson Farm wants to give clients an idea about how our silk business operation. They can come and understand where the quality silk comes from and why it has become well known all over,” adds Jariya.