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A day with good neighbour Nonthaburi

Festooned with tradition and thick with orchards, Bangkok’s northern chum proffers a tantalising weekend getaway

Vipasai Niyamabha
Special to the Nation

On a Sunday, when the traffic’s light, it takes just 30 minutes to drive from the heart of Bangkok to Nonthaburi. Yet despite being a mere 20 kilometres away and a great place for a day trip, this attractive province is often overlooked by city dwellers.
Located to the north of Bangkok, Nonthaburi is situated in a fertile basin on the banks of the Chao Phya River and criss-crossed by a plethora of canals.

To older residents of Bangkok, it’s probably best known for its fruit orchards, especially durian, mangosteen, mango and pomelo. And while it’s metamorphosed from semi rural clusters to busy urban centres over the last three decades, Nonthaburi has retained much of its agricultural charm.

You can see the abundance of fruit by heading down to Bang Ku Viang floating market in Bang Kruay district between 6 and 8 am and watching local farmers load up their boats with seasonal produce. Other smaller floating markets can also be found in Sai Noi on the Pimol Racha canal and at Wat Saeng Siritham near the Tha-it market.
Or make straight for the orchards. If you can stand the smell, don’t miss the 100-year-old durian orchard, which boasts all the species found in Thailand, from chanee, monthong to kanyao.

Artist Spa and Homestay is a good starting point for anyone wanting to visit the fruit orchards. And if you’re staying there, don’t forget to try its relaxing Thai massage and other spa treatments. The art-minded can even opt for an afternoon painting lesson in the lush gardens.

But if you’re really serious about massage, then head into Nonthaburi town and sign up for one of the massage courses offered by the Thai Traditional Medical Training Centre in the Public Health Ministry on Tiwanon Road. While you’re there, take a tour of the TTM museum.

Nonthaburi was founded some 400 years ago in the Ayutthaya period, and its long history is reflected in its temple architecture. Must-sees include Wat Prasat in Muang district, a monastery built in Mon style, Wat Chal-o in Bang Kruay district, and Wat Prang Luang in Bang Yai district. There are also many more temples built in the early Rattanakosin period, plus temples with progressive thought of Buddhism. The prominent of all is Wat Chonprathan Rangsarit, the monastery made famous by the most-revered abbot Panya Nahdha Bhikku who passed away last year.

At Wat Suan Kaew in Bang Yai district, people discuss dhamma with abbot Phra Phayom Kalyano. The well-respected monk also runs many charitable projects for the poor so don’t be surprised to find many Buddhists shopping for second hand goods at the temple’s very own flea market.

Also worth visiting are Koh Kret, a tiny island that serves as home to the Mon community, and the royal temple of Wat Chalerm Prakiat in Karnchanapisek Park. This 40-acre park by the western bank of the Chao Phya, is home to various plants plus a lovely Thai traditional house and pagoda-style pavilion.

End the trip with a visit to the royal teak house of Tamnak Prathom. The house was once located in the compound of Phetchabun Palace - today the site of CentralWorld - and home to HRH Prince Chudadhuj Dharadilok, the 72nd child of the King Rama V. Today, Tamnak Prathom is a  private museum and a Harp Centre.

HOW TO GET THERE

The easiest way of getting to Nonthaburi is by car. Follow Road 302 and cross the Chao Phya River on Phra Nang Klao Bridge. Turn off for Muang District and Koh Kret by taking Road 306, For Chalerm Prakiat, take Road 3110 or for Bang Kruay take Road 3215. Road 340 leads to Bang Bua Thong and Bang Yai Districts. Drivers taking the Rama VI Bridge should follow the Bang Kruay-Sai Noi Road (Route 3215) toward Sai Noi district.

WHERE TO STAY

There are many decent choices of lodging in Nonthaburi. Most are in traditional Thai style, and set amid tropical garden and fruit orchards.

Baan Dvaraprateep on the quiet side of Koh Kret, offers many health and meditation programmes all year round,
Tel: Tel: (081) 845 5445, (02) 373 6457
Visit: www.BaandVaraprateep.com
Email: Email: kanyaporn@baandvaraprateep.com

Baan Ruan Thai in Bang Yai district, is a gorgeous Thai house and offers Thai cooking classes too.

Tel: (02) 903 9611, (02) 997 5161
www.ThaiHouse.co.th
E-mail : pip_thaihouse@hotmail.com

Nontnatee Resort set by the Bang Kruay canal in Bang Pai, offers bungalow style accommodation in a lush garden setting.
Tel: (02) 879 5773-4
www.NontnateeResort.com
info@nontnateeresort.com

Price range: Bt1,500-Bt2,400

Panasom in Bang Yai district, is a relaxing place to stay in Thai style houses. Tel: (02) 449 2253, (081) 206 2116
E-mail: panasom_resort@hotmail.com
Price range: Bt1,200-Bt3,000

Ban Ing Nam Health Resort and Spa in Pak Kret district, offers luxury accommodation for upmarket travellers.
Tel : (02) 962 7750-2
Visit: www.BanIngNam.com

Baan Mai Hom in Bang Yai district, is a small yet cosy hotel amid fruit orchards.
(02) 449-7822-25 ext 101 and ext 107
www.BaanMaiHom.com
E-mail : pol-p@hotmail.com
Price range: Bt2,00-Bt4,000

Baan Suan Silp Thai Sabaai or Artist Spa and Homestay in Bang Yai District, offers accommodation, orchard tours and spa.
Tel: (02) 921 5175, (02) 921 5185
Visit: http://www.ArtistSpaResort.com
E-mail: info@artistsparesort.com
Price range: Bt750-Bt2,000