Pockets of Paradise

Once a tranquil backwater, Pran Buri is being discovered by resort developers

Manote Tripathi
The Nation

A mere 20 minute’s drive away from bustling Hua Hin, peaceful Pran Buri lures visitors with its tree-lined coast road, vibrant fishing villages, fresh and sun-dried seafood and endless empty beaches.

But at just 281 kilometres from Bangkok, it’s impossible not to notice the changes that are taking place in this district of Prachuap Khiri Khan as locals sell their land and new resorts mushroom. Property development has taken root, but there’s still plenty of rusticity to be found. And while tradition is co-existing with luxury in this old-fashioned resort area, one cannot help but wonder how much longer that harmony will last.

Once in Pran Buri, you won’t want to leave. Aside from sun and sea, there’s lush forest, ubiquitous coconut trees and powdery white sandy beaches that seem to stretch on forever. But Pran Buri has never been a favourite resort town for the jet-setting elite from Bangkok or indeed for the Siamese royalty. It’s considered as one of Hua Hin’s satellite beaches and is a key military town, with Burma just over the border.

The drive to Pran Buri from Hua Hin offers breath-taking views. Road 3168, off Highway 4, rises and dips along the low hills that are part of the nearby national park. Many visitors pull over at Khao Kaloke, a hill right in the middle of Pran Buri beach, to eat at one of the seafood restaurants or food stalls hawking Isaan fare.
Another popular stop, particularly with western diners, is Sawadikarn Restaurant on the other side of the hill, where you can sit at bamboo tables overlooking a bay dotted with stationery fishing trawlers.

South of Pran Buri, you’ll find the villages of Baan Nong Baan Kao and Baan Rua Yai. Here, the beach is long and wide and usually empty. Even a fisherman pushing a cart loaded with shrimps – a common sight elsewhere – is rare here. For many decades, this has been one of the most beautiful beachside roads in southern Thailand, flanked by the blue sea on one side and acres of greenery on the other. Today, the view is marred by signs for land sales and ads for new resorts.

The metalled part of the road extends southwards from Khao Kaloke for about three kilometres ending at a small sala with a blue tiled roof. This is a pleasant place to park and rest awhile, contemplating the sand and sea, before continuing along the dirt track to other villages further down the beach and eventually to Khao Sam Roi Yod National Park, 20km away.

Southern Pran Buri offers true rustic charm with sleepy fishing villages and a few quiet and inexpensive bungalows. Enjoy an overnight stay here and you’re guaranteed a solitary beach walk as the sun rises.

There’s plenty to engage you in northern Pran Buri as well. A trip back up the road leads to the much-acclaimed Evason Hua Hin before finishing at Paknam Pran at the mouth of the Pran Buri River.

Here you can take a boat inland along the river for glimpses of fishing villages, shrines, the mangrove and several species of bird. On your return, explore the fishing villages at the mouth of the river and stock up on dried squid and shrimp at very reasonable prices.

Rest in the small sala at the end of the road overlooking the mouth of the river and watch the fishing trawlers as they plough the waves. The dark green water of the river as it meets the blue sea makes for a stunning picture.

There are cheap bungalows in Paknam Pran too and unlike those in northern Pran Buri, they are run by villagers and come with great seafood. And if the sun is too hot, chill out at the bar of the Evason Hua Hin right on the beach road – afternoon tea can be had at the very reasonable price of Bt450.

HOW TO GET THERE

From Bangkok, it’s easy to get to southern Thailand now that the eastern ring road links with Rama II Road (Highway 35, aka Thon Buri-Pakthor Road). Take the expressway or the ring road that leads to Highway 35, and travel straight through to Samut Sakhon and Samut Songkhram. Turn left at Highway 4 (Phetkasem Road) for Hua Hin. Continue on the same highway from Hua Hin for about 10 minutes. Then, Road 3168 on the left leads all the way to Pran Buri.

WHERE TO STAY

Chivasom
Hua Hin
Tel: (032)536 536
www.Chivasom.com
Price range: Bt20,000-Bt40,000

Sofitel Centara Grand Resorts & Villas Hua Hin
Hua Hin
Tel: (032) 512 021-38
www.CentaraHotelsResorts.com
Price range: Bt4,940-Bt15,890

Let’s Sea
Hua Hin
Tel: (032)536 888
www.LetUsSea.com
Price range: Bt9,000-Bt12,000

Baan Panali
Pran Buri
Tel: (086) 051 2333
www.Baan-Panali.com
Price range: Bt1,500-Bt5,000

Lawana Beach Resort
Pran Buri
Tel: (032) 632 222, (089) 062 9998
www.LawanaPranburi.com
Price range: Bt2,000-Bt5,000

Baan Lon Sai
Pran Buri
Tel: (032) 630 582, (081) 720 2306
Price range: Bt1,200

Pattawia Resort
Tel: (032) 570 304
www.PattawiaResort.com
Price range: Bt2,890-Bt15,980

Le Bay Buri
Pran Buri
Tel: (02) 696 8239
www.LeBayBuri.com
Price range: Bt15,000-Bt50,000

Praseban Resort
Pran Buri
Tel: (032) 630 590-1
www.PrasebanResort.com
Price range: Bt7,000-Bt15,000

Huaplee Lazy Beach
Pran Buri
Tel: (086) 334 936
www.HuapleeLazyBeach.com
Price range: Bt2,500-Bt6,800

Baan Chom Thalay
Pran Buri
Tel: (032) 630 559, (081) 011 0336
Price range: Bt1,000-Bt1,500

The Evason Hua Hin
Pran Buri
Tel: (032) 632 111
www.SixSenses.com/evason-huahin/index.php
Price range: Bt4,750-Bt14,200

WHERE TO EAT

Plenty of restaurants in Pran Buri, including Raan Sawadikarn, are located around Khao Kaloke, along with a range of food stalls selling grilled chicken, som tam and other local fare.

The Palm Pavillion
Sofitel Centara, Damnernkasem Road, Hua Hin
Tel: (032) 512 021-38

Supatra by the Sea
Takiab Road, Hua Hin
Tel: (032) 536 893-4

Naeb Talay
Naeb Kehas Road, Hua Hin
Tel: (032) 531 470

Lom Talay
Bang Herd Beach, Muang district
Tel: (087) 897 0664

3 Puying
Hua Hin
Tel: (032) 522 551

Korawik
Naeb Kehas Road, Hua HIn
Tel: (032) 514 516

Baan Chon Talay
Pran Buri
Tel: (032) 630 559

Chon Ngoen
Hua Hin
Tel: (032) 520 341

Sasi Restaurant
Hua Hin
Tel: (032) 512 488

Let’s Sea
Hua Hin (near Khao Takiab)
Tel: (032) 536 022

Baan Isara
Naeb Kehas Road, Hua Hin
Tel: (032) 530 574

Hua Hin on the Cheap

If the family fortune is still beyond your grasp, here’s how to see Thailand’s best beach resort without wrecking your wallet

Vipasai Niyamabha
The Nation

Fifty years ago, when Hua Hin was just being recognised as a fabulous holiday beach destination, no one was paying Bt10,000 a night for a room at the Railway Hotel, although even then it was the most luxurious place in town.

And no one was paying Bt40 for a scoop of ice cream, either, or Bt400 for a biscuit party by the beach. Hua Hin is still a favourite getaway for well-heeled Thais, but is it even a possibility for budget travellers? If you’ve got Bt2,000 a day for two this month, lingering over your Earl Grey too long at the Museum Tea Corner might be inadvisable. That’s Bt420 each off your budget for a start, and as much as high tea in colonial splendour is appealing, let’s move on.

Taking the shoestring tour of Hua Hin begins with a sense of pride upon pulling into one of the inexpensive guesthouses, having just endured roughly two hours on the road from Bangkok.

If you want to be close to the beach – and, yes, paying next to nothing – walk past the Marriott on Phetkasem Road and turn left into a small, quiet street with no name. Look for a big signboard with a long list of guesthouses. Among these are the Leng, the Thip-Urai and the Chanphen.

In high tourist season, most of these are fully booked with visitors from a part of Europe that gives the street its jocular name: Soi Scandinavia. For Bt750 a night, tax included, you’re not going to get much, as you can gather from the tiny reception areas.

The rooms typically have a pair of single beds, clean bathrooms, air-conditioning, a fridge and a TV. The good news is that you’ll find a fair-sized swimming pool, most unusual for this price range.

“This street used to be a small townhouse estate with the shared pool,” says the manager of one of the inns. “When the houses were converted into guesthouses, the owners split the expenses to keep the pool for all their guests.”
During the current low season, many of the guesthouses are being renovated, so there’s a bit of noise to put up with, but the hammering and the economical proportions are quickly forgotten when you stroll down a small alley to the blue sea and long sandy beach. Go on, do some shopping! Buy a can of pop for Bt20. It’s a shorter walk to the surf if you stay in town, and it still costs only Bt750 for most places on busy Srasong Road.

There’s also a grim-looking youth hostel that offers dormitory-style sleeping for Bt120. And lots of budget travellers head to Nares Damri Road, near the Hilton, for seaside accommodation on stilts. At the Fulay Guesthouse, prices vary – a room for two with a fan and tiny shower goes for Bt350 to Bt450, while air-conditioned rooms start at Bt850.

Hungry?
Head to popular Khao Tom Jae Maew for rice soup with seafood at Bt30 a bowl. It’s on Dechanuchit Road near the night market, which is packed with stalls selling fishy foods for between Bt50 to Bt300 (unless you order a lobster, of course).

Plus, you can satisfy your sweet tooth with sticky rice and ripe mango (Bt50) or coconut ice cream (Bt15). Strolling along the beach is free, but if you want to perch on a canvas chair, that’ll be Bt50. Find yourself a sunny bit of sand instead – just be careful a horse doesn’t step on you.

Hua Hin is small enough that you can wander around for hours without needing wheels, but a short taxi ride only costs Bt50. Just four kilometres from Hua Hin town is the village of Khao Takiab. It’s Bt300 by taxi, but you can just as easily wait for a Bt10 songtaew near the night market.

Or, rent a motorbike for Bt400 a day to tour Khao Takiab, the lookout on Hin Lek Fai Hill and the elephant camp north of town. The standing Buddha at Khao Takiab – which doesn’t cost a single satang to admire – gazes out over the sea, and there’s a temple that also offers panoramic views for the price of a steep climb. (If you have food with you, but not enough to share, watch out for the monkeys – they’re the champs when it comes to freeloading.)

A stroll back to Hua Hin can be tiring, but it’s an hour well spent. There are lovely colonial beach houses with lush gardens on the way, many of which once belonged to Siamese nobility.

In the mood for some culture? Try the Rashnee Thai Silk Village, where the whole silk-making process is explained – at no charge.

A little golf? A tight budget is no problem on Mother’s Day (August 12), when women pay just Bt74 to get teed off at the Majestic Creek and Palm Hills resorts.
After a long day of scrimping and saving, you must have some money to reward yourself with a nice romantic meal by the sea!
For a mere Bt300, visit one of the shoreline restaurants near the Hilton. Fried rice costs Bt95, fried vegetables the same and a small Singha beer Bt55. There you go. The Bt255 seafood pizza and Bt350 fried seabass will just have to wait until you’ve inherited your fortune.

The Hilton’s Hua Hin Brewing Company, by the way, has a live band as well as DJs, and stays open late. A small glass of Sabai Sabai Beach Beer will set you back all of Bt140. Maybe you can manage that.

If in the course of your day you’ve accumulated enough budget-brained friends, perhaps you can collectively muster Bt1,500 and get a 3.5-litre tub of the suds. That should keep you happily broke.

And if there’s any spare change left in your pocket at all, 7-Eleven is open all night.

Healthier in Hua Hin

Serenity and superb beaches aren’t good enough for the old seaside town – especially if they aren’t comfortable too

Vipasai Niyamabha
The Nation

The last thing vacationers in Hua Hin encountered in days gone by was a traffic jam. And crowded beaches and untidiness were almost unheard of in this once-small seaside town made famous by royalty.

Today the many Hua Hin hotels overlooking the Gulf of Thailand are beautifully designed, and many turn-of-the century houses have been restored.

Here, after all, is Klai Kangwol Palace, the preferred residence of His Majesty the King.
But with its increasing popularity, Hua Hin has become home, too, to Starbucks, Pizza Hut and Burger King (though for some reason it’s yet to see a McDonald’s).

It’s also discovered pollution and traffic congestion, and with national (and, increasingly, global) attention cast its way, the citizens feel the need to spruce things up.

Sirapan Kamolpramote, a native of the town who’s just been elected its mayor, is fretting about the crowding, litter and other signs of decline that come with modernity and renown.

He’s joined hands with private businesses to launch the Preserve Hua Hin Group. The goal is to regenerate the town centre as “paradise city”.

“We’ve already examined the best ways to secure Hua Hin’s future as the premier holiday town in Thailand,” he says.

“The municipal planning strategists have identified five objectives to tackle in the next three years, from landscape enhancement and traffic congestion to pollution and zoning.”

Hua Hin has become a major resort destination, with traffic jams the by-product. There’s now an urgent effort underway to stop the problem before it gets worse – or at least reduce the road clogs – with neither residents nor tourists like, says Sirapan.
“Hua Hin has its disadvantages in transportation,” he notes. “There’s only the one highway connect it to other districts, so its fast growth inevitably leads to traffic jams.”

The solution, Sirapan believes, lies in expanded parking at the bus terminal, one-way traffic in the town centre and the launch of a weekend shuttle-bus service.
“The allocation we’ve received from the government for 2005 of Bt1 million is obviously not sufficient to solve the traffic congestion. To achieve this objective, we need at least Bt10 million.”

Sirapan will this month ask the owners of thehouses and businesses along the Phetkasen highway to cooperate with the urban improvement plan and keep their properties’ facades as immaculate as possible – including fresh paint, with the shophouses and other commercial buildings preferably done in cream shades.

Another problem much discussed is the food vendors, shops and other seaside businesses encroaching onto the public beach.

“We’ve managed so far to clear away three stalls from the public entrance to the beach near the Sofitel Central Hotel,” Sirapan says. “This problem is also found in the Khao Takieb area a few kilometres south of town.”
To help solve the problem, at least one day a week will be set aside to clear everything off the beach, leaving it as pristine as it once was. Sirapan suggests an “all-clear” every Wednesday to begin with, but awaits the results of a questionnaire that’s being circulated in the community.

“I can guarantee that people will see an improvement within six months. These efforts won’t solve all the problems 100 per cent this year, but they will definitely improve by next year.”