Steeped in tradition

Samut Songkhram, a popular weekend haunt with Bangkok residents, has a rich historical heritage

Vipasai Niyamabha
The Nation

On the weekends, the small evening market by the Mae Klong River in Samut Songkhram throbs with life as tourists from Bangkok bargain for souvenirs and local produce to carry back to the metropolis.

But in the heart of the province, the small lanes and alleyways that zigzag through the fruit orchards are still quiet, too full of twists and turns to attract the boisterous crowds.

Quiet, that is, except for this month, because all over Samut Songkhram fruit growers have been out in the orchards harvesting their mouth-watering bounty.

This annual festival has brought many more visitors into the calm countrywide, whose silence is usually only broken by the tours of firefly watchers.

This is Mae Klong on the verge of change, a time when the influx of tourists comes very close to flooding the tranquil ambience of this rural community.

The pristine reality of the province only reveals itself to visitors who delve a little deeper into the culture of Mae Klong, discovering things more valuable than the eye can see.
It’s no longer simply a matter of when or where to visit. By learning about the place, you go beyond the postcard-perfect images of mass tourism, which in turn allows you to think twice about swelling the ranks of the madding crowds.

Historical heritage

Mae Klong has such a pleasantly pastoral ring to it that some long-time residents would like revert to the days when the province carried the river’s name rather than the more sophisticated title of Samut Songkhram.

They point to the history books, noting that the first recorded reference to Samut Songkhram province appears under the name of “Meklong” in the documents of a French ambassador to Thailand during the reign of King Narai in the Ayutthaya period.
“Maecion”, another rendering of Meklong, appears on many ancient maps, where it marks a small town at the mouth of the river. The name of Mae Klong is also features large in the history of the Chakri dynasty.

Nak, the daughter of a wealthy ethnic Mon family in Mae Klong’s Bang Chang village, was betrothed to the high-born commander Khunluang Yokkrabut of Ratchaburi. The nobleman was later crowned King Rama I, becoming the founder of the Chakri dynasty, and Nak was given the name Somdet Phra Amarintramat.

She gave birth to King Rama II in Mae Klong, who grew up to marry a Mae Klong-born woman named Rod, who became the second queen of the Chakri Dynasty.
Mae Klong is also the birthplace of other famous Thais, among them the world’s first recorded conjoined (or “Siamese”) twins, Chang and Eng Bunker, during the early reign of King Rama II.

Other prominent figures that locals are proud to call their own include Luang Phradit Phairo, a traditional Thai composer who lived during the reign of King Rama VI, and Euea Sunthonsanan, the founder of the Kingdom’s famed Suntraporn Band. Even today the band plays an annual concert in Samut Songkhram to pay homage to the much-loved maestro.

A province of substance

But Samut Songkhram’s charm doesn’t just lie in its ancestry; it permeates the everyday life of the province, too. There’s a strong sense of community, with most people still living on their own land, surrounded by a network of relatives scattered over its three districts of Muang, Amphawa and Bang Khonthi.

The inhabitants are self-sufficient, able to get by if they so wish on the produce from their own or their neighbour’s plots. Thailand’s smallest province also benefits from three separate water resources- seawater, freshwater and brackish water.

Its seaside location means that there’s an abundance of salt farms, and razor clam farms have grown up at Don Hoi Lod, where the fertile ecology is rich witha wide variety of marine creatures. A top-seller is Mae Klong’s delicious mackerel, which is at its best at the end of the year.

Inland, brackish water gives way to fresh, which is perfect for growing a wide range of tropical fruits. The lychee harvest finishes just as the mango season starts. Banana, coconut and pomelo grow all year, as do jack fruit, betel nut and rose apple.
And each time you visit, it’s hard to resist buying dala (torch ginger) flowers and birds of paradise, which seem to be in bloom all year around.

Ask city folk why they are keen to visit Mae Klong and most will say it’s to enjoy the old country ways.

Closer questioning reveals a more specific curiosity — a desire to find out if these country folk look different, less modern than their city cousins, perhaps like those who lived in the orchards on the edge of Bangkok 50 years ago.

The khon Mae Klong, as the residents refer to themselves, certainly look more relaxed. They are also proud — happy to remain a small agricultural community just 70 kilometres away from Bangkok rather than become another industrial suburb like their neighbours.

With the prosperity that the tourist trade has brought them, the khon Mae Klong have reason to smile. Yet many seem bewildered by the changes brought on by the constant influx of visitors.

But whatever happens, the history and geography of the people of this province, long shaped by a traditional way of life, should be well preserved for generations to come.

HOW TO GET THERE

At only 72 kilometres or less than an hour’s drive from Bangkok, Samut Songkhram is well accessed by Road 35. Leave Bangkok by using the Express Way that continues southwards to Dao Khanong and then exiting through Rama II Road that will emerge in Samut Sakhon as Highway 35 (aka Thonburi-Pakthor Road). At the 63 kilometer marker, look out for the hanging green sign that indicates the way to Samut Songkhram. Going to Amphawa, take Road 325 that runs past Mae Klong River and several attractions including Wat Bang Kaphom, Wat Chulamanee, Wat Amphawan and an orchid farm. Many of these spots are located near the river so it’s wise to stick to the two roads that run in parallel with the river.

WHERE TO STAY

Baan Rim Khlong Amphawa
Opposite Wat Amphawan, Amphawa district
Tel: (089) 128 3838, (089) 911 1158
www.BaanRak-Amphawa.com
Price range: Bt700-Bt1,200

Phooyai Chong Homestay
Muang
Tel: (034)731 188, (086) 177 7942
www.PhuyaiChongHomestay.9nha.com
Price range: Bt900-Bt2,000

Klong Khone Mangrove Conservation Centre
Muang
Tel: (086) 177 7942, (089) 746 8803
www.KlongKhoneMangrove.com
Price range: Bt900-Bt1,000

Dee Pradap Homestay
Near Wat Kanchan Charoen, Amphawa
Tel: (087) 170 3011, (087) 170 3404
www.MaeKlongDee.com/DeePradap
Price range: Bt400-Bt1,000

Ploeng Amphawa Resort
Khlong Amphawa Road, Amphawa
Tel: (081) 458 9411
www.PloenAmphawa.com
Price range: Bt1,200-Bt2,400

Baan Rim Naam
Soi Wat Chong Lom, Amphawa
Tel: (081) 880 0083,
http://BaanViewMaenum.BlogSpot.com
Price range: Bt1,500-Bt3,000

Baan Mai Chay Klong
Amphawa
Tel: (081) 856 3990, (086) 571 8488
www.BaanMaiChayKlong.com
Price range: Bt1,200-Bt4,500

WHERE TO EAT

Amphawa Fish Noodles
Bang Khonthi (close to Tao Talthawee)
Tel: (086) 344 7418

Saban-nga
Inside Baan Thay Haad Resort, Amphawa
Tel: (034) 767 220-4

Baan Chom Duen
Samut Songkhram-Bang Phe Road, Amphawa
Tel: (034) 752 200-1

Phoo Yai Boon Dham
Near Krom Luang’s Shrine, Muang
Tel: (034) 723 739

Rim Ao
Wichanwithi Road, Muang
Tel: (034) 711 299, (081) 820 2142

Chang Phuek
One km from King Rama II Park, Amphawa
Tel: (034) 725 414, (032) 725 541

Evening in Amphawa

Among the many floating markets, Samut Songkram’s may be tops for sheer authenticity

Vipasai Niyamabha
The Nation

Only early birds catch the real hustle and bustle of most floating markets, but late risers need not miss out on the experience, with Amphawa’s floating market in Samut Songkram province starting much later in the day – towards the early evening.

The market might not have the traditional appeal of Damnoen Sadouk floating market, but visitors to Amphawa don’t seem to mind, flocking from Bangkok every weekend to reach the floating stalls just an hour before sunset.

Though floating markets were traditionally used by local farmers in central Thailand to sell their produce directly to customers, today tourists overshadow the real customers, arriving by the busload to appreciate the old charm and to immerse themselves in the atmosphere of the markets.

But before dismissing the Amphawa floating market as another tourist trap – or one of the many newly-emerged markets in central Thailand – it should be noted that what makes this market special is that it is actually a revival of the former market here that was a prominent feature of the community 50 years ago. In fact, the marketplace was once one of the major commercial district markets along the Mae Klong river.

In the early Rattanakosin period, Amphawa was celebrated as the birthplace of the King Rama II of Thailand and with a local population of prosperous farmers the area has a long-standing reputation as a wealthy district.

The area also possesses excellent soil that enables the local orchards and plantations to yield produce such as coconuts, pomelo, lychee and mango, all year round. The natural landscape is dotted with beautiful old traditional Thai-style house hidden behind lychee fruit orchards, many set elegantly by the river, side by side, with a suggestion of a particularly spiritual air added by the countless century-old temples.

The Amphawa market itself, sits next to the Amphawa District Office, right by the Mae Klong River. You can also find an array of stalls by the big river along the pedestrian walkway, which eventually leads you out to a canal. A variety of food and goods are available, with local people seeming to enjoy the evening market as much as visitors. In fact you’ll find locals and visitors alike vying for the boat-sellers’ spicy grilled squid and phad Thai, each simple dish costing between Bt10-Bt20.

You can also walk along the riverbank to browse the myriad of delicious morsels being sold from the water. Food can also be ordered to eat on the shore, which is well-equipped with plastic chairs and tables.

As well as investigating the floating wares, visitors can walk across the concrete bridge to the other bank’s strip of beautifully preserved wooden shophouses.

Unlike Damnoen Sadouk’s daily spectacle, Amphawa’s floating market only opens three days a week, from Friday to Sunday, but there’s no need to rush the experience as a number of the traditional Thai houses along both sides of the river also welcome guests to stay overnight due to the area’s other after-hours attraction – firefly watching.

Boat tours for the firefly watching begin at 7pm and usually last around an hour. There are also a few coffee shops by the canal, as well as gift shops selling postcards.

The revival of Amphawa’s market was the brainchild of the local municipality who recognised the potential benefits of the re-opening of the market on the local community here. True to their expectations, the idea is already proving a success with sightseers who come to enjoy the home-stay accommodation and firefly watching in Amphawa.

It might not be exactly the same as stepping back in time, but the authentic appeal of the market is still apparent, with tourists browsing goods and food alongside local people, who also enjoy the sociable atmosphere – whether they are there to trade, or to purchase. And it’s this lively mix and festive atmosphere that has made Amphawa’s newly revived market an attraction in its own right.

April in Amphawa

The fruit on the trees in this Samut Songkhram district is as sweet as the local folk, who host guests in traditional Thai homes

Weeranuch Puttachartsaewee, Nattareewan Sirichantarat
The Nation

A destination too good to put off any longer, Samut Songkhram’s Amphawa district is, in April, a friendly, lush place where the Tha Chin River branches out into an array of lovely streams, along which fruit orchards abound.

April means bowers of ripened fruit, including lychees ready to be picked and pomelos at their sweetest.

The waterways cool you down, chasing off the clamminess of chaotic Bangkok. As you zigzag along, deep into the district’s heart, everyday life seems superb, with most houses surrounded by orchards being harvested.

Even the untrained eye can spot the pomelo and lychee trees, with their exuberant foliage. Running through the district is “Fruit Road”, promising refreshment for the senses and the soul.

The craving is immediate one you see the orchards standing side by side, and if you feel like picking the juicy fruit right from the trees, go ahead and satisfy your thirst.
“We’re all the same – very welcoming,” says Son Jongkolrod, who owns a lychee orchard. “These orchards are all the same. You can stop at any of them.

“We sell the fruit at lower prices, and you can choose as you please. They’re truly fresh, collected right from the tree. Plus, you’re not forced to buy the fruit if you’re not satisfied. If you’re just a passer-by, we don’t mind you picking the odd lychee from the tree.”
Lychee flavour varies according to the species. Samut Songkhram is home to a distinctively sweet variation with small pits. Anywhere you go in the province, you can be sure of finding one of the best examples of the famed lychee.

The local pomelos, meanwhile, add to the area’s reputation with their succulence. They’re seedless and fairly sweet, and of course the prices are low.

Beyond Fruit Road, though, there’s another orchard-lined thoroughfare – the Amoravadi-Wat Kaew Charoen road just nearby.

Here Mae Wanpen orchard is easily spotted, and visitors will enjoy the rustic perks on offer. It has a little thatched-roof eatery, where owner Kanisorn Klumjeen sits down to chat.

“The visitors seem satisfied with the value they get with our fresh fruit, at prices lower than they pay at the markets,” she says, adding that they’re also happy to discover her recipes for fruity concoctions.

Kanisorn’s geniality is common hereabouts. Everyone seems to treat one another like a beloved sibling, making you feel like you’re reuniting with the family.
And that friendliness makes Amphawa the perfect place for home-stay accommodations.

A traditional Thai house at Mae Thong Yip home-stay village is a good example.
It’s ideal for experiencing the rural way of life.

Mae Thong Yib is the head of the village, where 12 traditional homes on both sides of Mae Klong River welcome casual guests. It gives foreigners and passing Thais the chance to interact with the locals.

Naturally, the host families make you feel right at home, and the surroundings, not to mention the delicious meals they serve, make the Bt350-a-night fare well worth it.
Home-staying in Amphawa is probably the best place to observe the way of life on the river, where people sell goods from their boats and the children play in the water.
In the early morning the monks paddle past in small craft receiving food from the residents.

Your hosts will be glad to show you how to make the local desserts, spicy dipping sauces and unique items crafted from lychee stems.

Take a boat out yourself for a paddle, or if you’re truly keen to get involved, ask to help with the farming. Then, of course, there’s always the fruit picking.

The evenings bring a small marvel: watching the fireflies among the dense Lumpoo forests along Klong Pee Lok – “haunted canal”.

Once the sun has left the sky, the tiny insects have only the moon for competition as they silently shed their dim light on the world.

It can be a romantic experience, despite the canal’s spooky name.
The unrivalled beauty of the surroundings guarantees a good night’s sleep – and promises an early rise amid the morning dew on the lychee leaves.

For more information about Mae Thong Yip homestays, call (034) 735 073, or the Samut Songkhram Provincial Office at (034) 711 997.