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Paradise off the beaten track

Trat’s unspoiled beaches are perfect for a weekend far from the madding crowd

Manote Tripathi
The Nation

Hordes of tourists arrive in Trat every month but very few linger more than an hour or two on the mainland of Thailand’s easternmost province, instead hurrying through to catch the ferries that sail regularly to Koh Chang or Koh Kood.

They are missing out: Mainland Trat with its kilometres of unspoiled, sandy palm-shaded beaches, vibrant fishing villages and abundant home-cooked seafood is ideal for anyone looking for a quiet weekend getaway.

Unlike Koh Chang, many of the province’s beaches remain largely undeveloped. Some are covered by willows, others flanked by forests, and several can only be accessed only by dirt tracks, so are clean, quiet and attractive.

Running along “the elephant’s trunk” - the narrow strip of land that protrudes from downtown Trat and leads up to the border with Cambodia - these beaches have been immune from the tourist waves for years. So a short holiday here guarantees both discovery and serendipity - provided you’re willing to go off the beaten track.

Trat is just 315 kilometres from Bangkok and on the fast, open road, it takes slightly more than two hours. Trat, or Krat as it used to be known, is a very old province, first mentioned in a historical account written during the reign of King Naresuan of Ayutthaya, when it was under the control of his foreign ministry. The province also served as a key military base for King Taksin after the fall of Ayutthaya following the 1767 Burmese attack. In 1904, Trat came under French rule following a skirmish with the French navy over the colonialist’s demand for Siam’s vassal provinces on the eastern side of the Mekong. The colonial-style, two-storey wooden structure of the French governor’s residence still stands in downtown Trat and today serves as the Department of Corrections office.

Given its colourful past, it’s perhaps not surprising that the province is home to a rainbow of races, with sizeable Chinese, Vietnamese and Cambodian communities.

The Khmer language plays a prominent role in both the cultural and commercial life, in part because the province, which is next door to Cambodia’s Koh Kong, has often played host to Cambodian refugees.

Villagers living along the beaches between downtown Trat and the last district in the east, Khlong Yai, speak Khmer as a second language. Even police at checkpoints on the road to the border town of Khlong Yai will often answer in Khmer!
The best beaches lie on the road connecting Trat town with Ban Had Lek, the easternmost village in Khlong Yai district. They are all pristine, but for beauty and convenience, check out Muk Kaew, which is one of the few accessible by an asphalt road. Mid-range accommodation is available at Muk Kaew Resort, along with mouth-watering seafood and eye-smacking views.

A good day at Muk Kaew starts with a swim in the sea followed by a great seafood lunch. In the afternoon, rest in the shade of pine trees before relaxing as night falls with your favourite cocktail. On sunny days, the grey formidable mass of Koh Chang can be seen on the horizon.

You should also make time to explore some of the oldest fishing villages in Trat, especially those fringed by Ratchakarun, Ban Chuen and Tanuek beaches. Ratchakarun beach boasts the Thai Red Cross Society’s Khao Lan museum, which offers an interesting snapshot of life in the refugee camp. And Ban Chuen beach is positively breathtaking.

From Ban Chuen, drive along the seafront to Tanuek beach, home to some of the more stylish resorts in the area. Stroll along the beach at sunset and stay overnight. If you want curried soft-shell crab, rise early, and buy fresh seafood directly from the small boats that sail between villages selling the catch of the night before. And there you have it.

With such tranquil beaches and tasty seafood, Trat remains a surprisingly well-kept secret.

HOW TO GET THERE

A four hours’ drive from Bangkok, Trat is well served by Highway 3 (Bangna-Trat Road). Leave Bangkok through the Bangkok-Chon Buri Motorway (Road 7) or Highway 3. In Chon Buri’s Ban Bung, turn left into Road 344 for a short cut to Rayong’s Klaeng district where it connects with Highway 3. Continue on the highway that runs past Chanthaburi on its way to the heart of Trat and then turn left into Road 318 (Trat-Khlong Yai Road) for the journey to the multitude of empty beaches in Khlong Yai.

WHERE TO STAY

Haad Mook Kaew Resort
Trat-Khlong Yai Road (km 41.5)
Tel: (039) 511 777, (081) 559 1022
http://www.HaadMookKaew.com
Price range: Bt1,090-Bt5,000

Barn Talaepu Resort
Trat-Khlong Yai Road (km 69)
Tel: (039) 581 721-2
www.BarnTalaepuResort.com
Price range: Bt1,500-Bt12,000

Mai Rood Resort
Trat-Khlong Yai Road (km 56)
Tel:(039) 691 119, (081) 758 1392
http://www.mairood-resort.com
Price range: Bt300-Bt3,500

Ban Lae Resort
Trat-Khlong Yai Road (km 63)
Tel: (089) 938 1716,(039) 581 127 ,(039) 511 348
www.geocities.com/banlae_trat
Price range: Bt2,000-Bt3,000

Ya Taa Resort
Khlong Yai
Tel: (039) 581 499, (081) 565 7187
Price range: Bt1,000-Bt3,800

Baan Tak Arkard
Trat-Khlong Yai Road (km 67)
Tel: (039) 581 295, (039) 581 909
www.takarkard.com
Price range: Bt1,500-Bt6,000

Chan Chon Resort
Mai Rood Beach, Khlong Yai
Tel: (039) 581 173, (039) 581 889
Price range: Bt800-Bt4,500

Ratchakaroon Centre (The Thai Red Cross Society)
Trat-Khlong Yai Road (km 48)
Tel: (039) 521 621, (039) 521 624
www.redcross.or.th/khaolan
Price range: Bt700-Bt6,000

Haad Son Resort
Khlong Yai
Tel: (039) 581 882-3
Price range: Bt700-Bt6,000

Baan Chuen Resort
Trat-Khlong Yai Road (km 60)
Tel: (039)383 749
Price range: Bt600-Bt1,000

WHERE TO EAT

Haad Muk Kaew Restaurant
Muk Kaew Beach, Klong Yai
Tel: (039) 511 777, (081) 559 1022

Sang Fah
Sukhumvit Road, Muang district
Tel: (039) 511 222, (039 523 373-4

Suan Pu
Muang
Tel: (039) 512 400, (039) 542 355

Rom Yen
Muang
Tel: (039) 511 975

Sang Chan
Laem Ngop district
Tel: (039) 597 198-99

Rim Thalay
Laem Ngop
Tel: (039) 597 084

Rim Sapan
Lael Ngop
Tel: (039) 597 194

Khrua Dan Kao
Muang district
Tel: (039) 522 955-6