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Simple seaside charms

Manote Tripathi discovers Chanthaburi is rich with natural and cultural attractions

Manote Tripathi
The Nation

A weekend trip to Chanthaburi province brings back memories of the birth of Bangkok, the secret shipyard of King Taksin and the Thai-Chinese efforts to defeat the invading Burmese and regain Siam’s sovereignty. Add the French, and Chanthaburi comes across as not just a historical military base, but as the battleground for anti-colonial struggles.

People in history may have sailed to this province, but modern-day Chanthaburi – 250 kilometres from Bangkok or just a two hours’ drive – is better appreciated by driving, with its colourful past, breathtaking seaside views, abundant tropical fruits, gems and ageing fishing villages. For Thais, Chanthaburi is a worthy stopover for lunch on their way to Trat’s Koh Chang. It’s also an attractive destination in its own right for day-trippers.

A good grasp of the province’s history will add to the enjoyable experience of appreciating its historical attractions and its natural beauty. Not many Thais know that the province used to be ruled by the French for over a decade before Siam decided to cede its vassal cities to the east of the Mekong River to France. When the French left in 1904, they also left behind a legacy in the form of gothic churches, prisons and military buildings, which still stand to this day.

But it’s the province’s link with King Taksin of Thon Buri that raised its significance. After the second fall of Ayutthaya to the Burmese in 1767, Siam was in disarray. It was King Taksin who plotted Siam’s flight to freedom, and he did it in Chanthaburi because the city was home to Tae Chiew Chinese, who joined the army of the king, who had Chinese blood.

There’s no better way to trace King Taksin’s route to Siamese freedom than a visit to King Taksin’s Shipyard. It’s difficult getting there because it’s tucked away in one of the many quiet beaches in Laem Sing. But there are signs that will help make navigating more possible. Once there, any visitor is likely to feel completely relaxed as the wind keeps blowing. The shipyard is at one end of the wide open beach that looks like a crescent with both arms reaching out to embrace the sea ahead. There are not many people there because the place is quite hard to access. Once there one is likely to encounter a few locals fishing.

The best time to visit is early afternoon because visitors will have the chance to lunch at the only restaurant there that offers great seafood including fish cake and ranging thick and clear soups with types of fish to choose from the menu.

The shipyard exudes an air of solemnity. This very shipyard was where most of the king’s fleet were built here and used to transport his troops to fight the Burmese and reclaim Siam’s sovereignty. The king’s journey to Siam’s freedom started at this very point.

Most of the king’s vessels are gone – all that is left are a few old boats uncovered in the shipyard and from the seabed. There’s a new, nearby museum that offers a glimpse into the mission of the king and his eventful life. On display in are a collection of Chinese and Thai pottery dating to the time of King Taksin. These artefacts confirm that Chanthaburi was home to Chinese merchants bringing their wares to the province. But the Chinese ceramics found here are of low quality with plain simple motifs. For some Thais, the trip offers an opportunity to pay respect to the king still largely registered in the Thai psyche.

For a glimpse of the French remnants, a visit to Ki Gai Prison and Tuek Dang or Red Building reveals an important chapter in Thai history. The two places well illustrate the French aggression at the height of colonialism in the 19th century: they ruled Chanthaburi from 1893 to 1904, while forcing Siam into ceding the land on the east side of the Mekong river.

Built by the French in 1893, Ki Gai (Chicken Droppings) Prison jailed people of various nationalities including Vietnamese, Chinese and Thai. Life in the prison was appalling: chicken were raised on the top floor so that their droppings fell down on the inmates below. The Red Building reminds visitors of how the French generals lived their lives in this command post.

For a change of scenery, head to one of Chanthaburi’s many beaches. There’s nothing that can beat Kung Wiman beach in terms of beauty and scenery. Kung Wiman with its reddish sand has perhaps the most beautiful seaside road in the country that winds its way along the ledge of a cliff.

Another beach worth sampling is Chao Lao beach, which stretches all the way to Kung Kraben Bay. You can swim at the beach, or explore nature in the nearby hill which boasts a good vantage point from which to see the vast blue sea. You might find a crowd here as it’s a popular beach lined with stalls and restaurants offering excellent fresh seafood at reasonable prices.

If what you’re looking for is a white sandy beach with some shade, then head to Laem Sadet Beach, which is three kilometres long and lined with pine trees. For a nice splash in the sea, consider visiting Laem Sing beach, which is better known for its top seafood restaurants, clean and clear water quality, and long beach with pine trees.

Aside from the fun of exploring Chanthaburi’s heritage, get a tasty experience of the province by savouring its range of tropical fruit and seafood. Enjoy!

HOW TO GET THERE

A two hours’ drive from Bangkok, Chanthaburi is accessed by Highway 3 (Bang Na-Trat Road). From Bangkok, take the Bangkok-Chon Buri Motorway and exit at Ban Bung. Follow Road 344 that leads to Klaeng, Rayong. In Klaeng, turn left onto Highway 3 and you’ll get to Chanthaburi in about 30 minutes. Kung Wiman Beach is on Road 3399 that also leads to other notable beaches. The easiest way to find attractions in Chanthaburi is by following four-digit provincial road numbers. Make sure that the number of the road you’re travelling on matches up with the one on your map.

WHERE TO STAY

Faasai Resort and Spa
Kung Wiman Beach
Tel: (039) 417 404
www.FaaSai.com
Price range: Bt1,700-Bt3,900

Al Medina Beach House
Kung Wiman Beach
Tel: (085) 334 3555 (085) 155 3333
www.AlMedinaBeach.com
Price range: Bt3,600-Bt6,930

Baan Toom Resort
Chao Lao Beach, Tha Mai district
(039) 388 063
Price range: Bt2,500-Bt8,500

Maldives Beach Resort
Laem Sadet Beach
Tel: (039) 369 100
www.MaldivesBeachResort.net
Price range: Bt1,400-Bt5,500

Calibou Highland Hotel
Tedsabanpattana Road, Muang District
Tel: (039) 323 431-5
www.Calibou-Hotel.com
Price range: Bt990-Bt4,000

KP Grand Hotel
Trirat Road, Muang
Tel: (039) 323 201-10
Price range: Bt1,800-Bt5,000
www.KPGrandHotel.com

Rim Green Hotel
Rambhai Barni Rajabhat University, Ruksakchamun Road, Muang
Tel: (039) 471 050, (039) 471 681
www.rbru.ac.th/department/RimGreen/exroom
Price range: Bt540-Bt2,000

New Travel Beach Chao Lao Hotel & Resort
Chao Lao Beach
Tel: 039-388-081-6 Fax: 039-388-087
www.NewTravelBeach.com/NewTravelBeach/index.htm
Price range: Bt1,400-Bt4,000

Ban Haad Pakarang
Chao Lao Beach
Tel: (039) 369 073
Price range: Bt1,500-Bt3,000

WHERE TO EAT

Por Sor 2462 Borneo Bar
Trirat Road, Muang
Tel: 081 687 7784

Poo Ja Seafood
Tha Chalap Road, Muang
Tel: (039) 391 129

Chanthara Pochana
Benjamarachoothit Road, Muang
Tel: 039-312-339, 039-302350

Pan Jim Restaurant
Maharaj Road, Muang
Tel: (039) 332 270

Ratree Restaurant
Sai Tha Chalap Road, Muang
Tel: (039) 311 628, (081) 870 4450

Nongyao Seafood
Laem Sing Beach
Tel: (086) 849 6794, (039) 399 048

Rim Naam Chan Muang
Tha Chalap Road, Muang
Tel: (039) 312 409, (039) 322 425