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A river runs through it

Chachoengsao, a quiet province just outside Bangkok, will delight anyone looking for green fields, traditional markets and unusual snacks

By Manote Tripathi
The Nation

A few minutes from Bangkok’s eastern suburbs lie sprawling paddy fields, fish farms, rural villages and numerous roadside stalls selling a weird but surprisingly tasty snack - grilled noo naa (mice), the major pest of rice paddies.

A mere 83 kilometres from downtown Bangkok, and just 30 minutes from Suvarnabhumi Airport, Chachoengsao province, which lies on the banks of the Bang Pakong River, has many hidden gems just waiting to be discovered.

Chachoengsao, which thrives on its fertile land and aquatic culture, is crisscrossed with a labyrinthine network of canals and carpeted with rice paddies that seem to be green all year round.

A must-visit is talad Klong Suan Roi Pee, the traditional market on the banks of Prawetburirom Canal that’s being going for more than a century. Spread over Samut Prakhan and Chachoengsao, it’s a stone’s throw from Suvarnabhumi Airport. From Bangkok, just follow Onnut Road (Sukhumvit Soi 77) through Lat Krabang (it eventually becomes known as Lat Krabang Road - Road 3001) straight to Klong Suan, where it connects with Road 314.

The 27km section of Road 3001 between Klong Suan and Lat Krabang’s Hua Ta Kae market runs past the residence of former Prime Minister Surayud Chulanont, the Royal Golf Course, acres of paddy fields and Bang Bo’s numerous pla salid fish ponds.

A century ago, the people of Klong Suan went to the capital to chill out or trade by way of Klong Prawetburirom, which was dug during the fifth reign. It took them half a day to paddle upstream to Lat Krabang, even longer to reach Phra Kanong. That is like paddling from Venice to the Lido. But these villagers are themselves sons of the canals that lead to other far-flung destinations like the Gulf of Thailand.

Today, Bangkokians come to Klong Suan for its market, which runs in a straight line along the banks and sports rows of two-storey wooden shophouses selling old-style Thai coffee and tea, noodles, plastic and rare tin toys, Thai sweetmeats, chicken and duck soups, kitchen utensils and bamboo fishing accessories.

After shopping, drive to downtown Chachoengsao to take in the view from the Bang Pakong River.

Follow Road 314, turn right at Chachoengsao Railway Station then head for the bridge, from where you get a panoramic view of the city that lies ahead, and the golden spires of Wat Sothon Wararam Worawihan, another must-see landmark.

Built in the late Ayutthaya period, Wat Sothon boasts a Bt2.5-billion prayer chapel that houses the highly revered, 200-year-old seated Buddha image called Luang Phor Buddha Sothon, believed to have been installed here during the Thonburi period.

After a temple tour, relax in downtown Chachoengsao on the vast promenade that runs along the river bank near Chachoengsao Hospital.

If you’re tired of driving, why not see the sights from the water? Boats depart regularly from the piers near Tambon Tha Kham Municipal Office at the mouth of Bang Pakong River. The road that leads to this office is off Bangna-Trat Highway near the Bang Pakong Bridge.

From November to January, the boat will take you to see dolphins in the Gulf of Thailand, while the rest of the year, you can admire the sunset or disembark at one of the seafood restaurants that line the riverbank. Enjoy!

HOW TO GET THERE

Chachoensao is accessible from Bangna-Trat Highway to the south, and Highway 304 to the north.

However, to take advantage of the province’s rustic charms, take Road 3001 (Lat Krabang Road) to Klong Suan Market then connect with Road 314 in Chachoengsao. Once in Klong Suan, head to downtown by following 3001 until it meets 314. Turn right into 304 and follow the road until your reach the main railway station. To get to Wat Sothon, take Si Sothon Road off Highway 304 and drive along the bank of Bang Pakong River. From Wat Sothon, head southwards on Road 314, which links with Bangna-Trat Highway (No 34), to get to the mouth of Bang Pakong river for boating, dolphin spotting and sunset tours.

WHERE TO STAY

Wangtara Hotel and Resort
Tel: (038) 822 239-40, (038) 512 565-9
Price range: Bt1,000-Bt3,500

Grand Royal Plaza
Tel: (038) 823 701
Price range: Bt500-Bt1,200

Baan Pla Loma
Tel: (038) 574 318, (02) 734 9583
Visit: www.BaanPlaLoma.com
Price range: Bt1,000

WHERE TO EAT

Khon Mai
Sukoprayoon Road, Tambon Tha Kham, Bang Khla district
Tel: (089) 138 9516

Little Pizza – Steak
Suan Somdej Road, Muang District
Tel: (038) 511 869, (081) 588 6381

Mathurot Ruen Phae
Near Chachoengsao Hospital, Muang District

Kua Kool Photchana
Kua Kool Road, Muang District
Tel: (038) 511 425

Bygone beauty

A well-preserved market recalls Thailand of bygone days

Thomtong Tongnok
The Nation

Ban Mai riverside market in Chachoengsao province is a perfect example of the “sufficiency economy” mentioned by His Majesty the King on his birthday this week.
The local community has kept the century-old Sino-Thai market alive not just to preserve the architecture of bygone days, but also to underscore their pride in this special place.

The sun filters through the high-ceiling teakwood roofs of these shuttered structures built during the reign of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) giving a glow that is very different from the cold fluorescent lighting found in today’s supermarkets.

This idyllic beauty not only attracts tourists but also filmmakers - part of blockbuster “Nang Nak was shot here - which has caused many locals to refer to their community as the Hollywood of Thailand.

The aroma of food lures me to an old restaurant where firewood is still the fuel of choice. Watching three women cooking in front of the old style stove invokes memories of the good old days. Local people come to the place for noodles. If you want to try a local dish, they are more than happy to willing to whip up special orders.

And it’s true what the elders say - food really does taste better when it’s cooked with firewood rather than gas!
Boon Eua, which sells preserved fruits, is one of the most famous shops in this market. Unfortunately, by the time of my visit in the later afternoon, they had already sold out. To see the colourful display, go before noon.

You can cool off with an old-fashioned lord-chong (green pandanstring served in syrup) or durian flavoured ice cream for Bt10 a pop or relax over sweets and a hot drink Hia Khun, where groups of older people gather for conversation. There’s no espresso or latte, just Thai style tea.

Children won’t find any hi-tech toys at the market, but parents will enjoy harking back to their young days by playing with yoyos and rubber soldiers.

At just slightly more than an hour’s drive from Bangkok, Ban Mai is a great way of switching off, chilling out and going back to a time when life moved in the slow lane.