5 days, 4 nights

Let us start from highway No 212 in Nakhon Phanom’s That Phanom District. When you are in the heart of this district, visit the Phra That Phanom Temple or Wat Phra That Phanom Woravihara. Every year, there is a week-long pilgrimage festival during which people pay homage to Phra That Phanom. Based on the lunar calendar, the festival runs between the 10th waxing-moon day and the first waning-moon day of the third month. Phra That Phanom is considered a particularly auspicious pagoda for people born in the Year of Monkey and those born on Sunday.

From the temple, move further along highway No 212 for about 15 km. Turn left into highway No 2031. Drive straight for about 7 km to reach Phra That Renu Nakhon Temple. People born on Mondays should ask for blessings from Phra That Renu Nakhon.

Drive back along highway No 2031 and make a left turn into highway No 212. From there or around 225 km, a 60-km drive will lead you right to Nakhon Phanom town. As this highway, which has two lanes each way, stretches along a portion of Mekong River, be ready for a scenic drive. You will also go past the Nakhon Phanom Police Station (0-4251-1266, 0-4251-5680). There is a small hotel called Ban Rim Kong (0-4252-1400) in its neighbourhood.

Around 25 km, you will see Tha Uthen Hospital (0-4258-1255). From there, drive straight for two km to visit Phra That Tha Uthen Temple. The sacred pagoda of this temple is facing the north of Phra That Phanom. According to Thai beliefs, the God Venus dwells in the North and people paying respect to this sacred pagoda will be blessed with prosperity.

|Return to highway No 212 and turn right at a three-pronged junction where a police booth is located. You will then be around 38 km on the two-lane highway No 2028. A 76-km-drive from here will lead you to Muang Sakon Nakhon district. However, when you reach zero km, you should turn right at a three-pronged junction where Kusuman District Office is located. After that, follow highway No 22 and turn right at the next junction. You will reach a two-lane road.

At around 166 km, you will reach an ecological attraction Nong Han. It is a great viewpoint for local scenery. You will also find an OTOP centre there. At the centre, you can shop for a variety of local products from Tambon Tha Rae Municipality or choose to be pampered with spa massages.

Before heading back to Muang Sakon Nakhon district, look for a place to stay overnight. There are many choices. For example, Dusit Hotel on Yuwapattana Road (0-4271-1198-9) offers a room at between Bt650 and Bt4,000 per night. Sakon Grand Palace Hotel, meanwhile, charges between Bt700 and Bt2,800 per room per night.

A number of local restaurants are available too. If you are looking for Vietnamese kitchen, head to Temkham Restaurant (0-4271-1566). Or you may try tasty dishes at Porjai Restaurant (0-4271-1767) in front of Siamrath Theatre.

The next morning, explore Sakon Nakhon residents’ way of life by strolling around a fresh market and nearby Suan Somdet Phra Si Nakharin (Sa Pangthong) public park. Locals love to exercise at this park, which is right by the big Nong Han Lake. This great recreational spot is near Sakon Nakhon Provincial Hospital (0-4271-1636, 0-4271-1615).

Visit Phra That Choeng Chum Temple to ask for blessings. Your next stop should be Suthawat Temple (Wat Pa Suthawat), which is located in a small soi opposite Sakon Nakhon Provincial Government Centre. This small soi has a 7-Eleven outlet at its mouth. Inside the Suthawat Temple lies Phra Achan Man Purithatto Museum and Luang Pu Louis Chantasaro Museum. The museums are open from 5am to 8pm daily.

From the temple, drive along highway No 213 until you reach the 24 km mark. Around there, make a right turn into the Western-style Phu Phan Ratchanivet Palace. Their Majesties the King and the Queen stay at this palace whenever they are in the Northeast. If Their Majesties are not at the palace, sightseeing is allowed. Before making your visit, check first with palace officials (0-4271-1550).

When leaving the palace, turn left and head along highway No 213. Make another left turn into highway No 22 for Udon Thani at a three-pronged junction. Highway No 22 is a two-lane rugged road. Drive straight for about 10 km and turn left at a three-pronged junction. By the time you reach 121 km, ensure you are driving on the right lane and make a U-turn to head towards Phanna Nikhom district. On your way, drop in at Achan Fan Acharo Museum inside Wat Pa Udom Somphon. Nearby are Phanna Nikhom District Office (0-4277-9232) and Phra Achan Fan Hospital (0-4277-9105).

After that, drive on the right lane along highway No 22. Then, make a U-turn so that you are on your way to Udon Thani. You will see Phang Khon Hospital (0-4277-1222) at a spot between 106 km and 105 km. Around 50 km, you will see a big sign showing how to get to Ban Chiang World Heritage Site. When you reach Ban Pulu three-pronged junction, there will be a sign showing direction to Ban Chiang National Museum. Follow it and turn right into highway No 2225. A 7-km drive from here will lead you to the highly-prized attraction.

This attraction is comprised of two zones. The first zone features an open museum in the compound of Po Si Nai Temple. Visitors here can observe the Bang Chiang excavation site that contains ancient earthenware pots, paintings and bronze bangles – artifacts once buried along with the dead. The second zone is an exhibition building, which also has a lecture room, audio-visual presentation and slide shows. Exhibits here richly reveal not just utensils but also the culture of Ban Chiang.

Ban Chiang National Museum is open to the general public from 8.30am to 4.30pm between Wednesday and Sunday with an admission fee of Bt10 per Thai visitor and Bt30 per foreign visitor (0-4220-8340-1). From the Sakon Nakhon to here, you would have covered 148 km.

After leaving Ban Chiang National Museum, follow a route to Ban Nong Mek. However, when you reach a three-pronged junction, turn right and you will be on a two-lane paved road, in good condition. You will also see a sign showing that Bang Dung is just 34 km away.

Drive straight along highway No 2096. On your way, you will see Somdet Phra Yuppharat Ban Dung Hospital (0-4227-3706) and then Chao Pu Si Sutto Shrine. From the shrine, drive straight until you reach 46 km. There, you turn right and drive 11 km further for Siri Sutto Temple.

The Chanot tree (Livistona saribus), which looks like a hybrid of palm and coconut trees, abound here. In the past, locals called this place “Wang Nakhin Kham Chanot” (Palace of Naga in Kham Chanot). It is widely believed that in the middle of the Chanot trees lies a sacred pond, which serves as a gate to the Underwater City. From Ban Chiang to here, you have already completed a 63-km drive.

Now go back to the same old route. At the junction, turn right and head towards Phon Phisai district. When you see the three-pronged junction, turn left into highway No 2230. By then, you will be around 5 km on the highway. Sandwiched between paddy fields, this highway has just one lane each way. When you reach 16 km, make a right turn. This route can lead you to Phon Phisai district, So Phisai district and Fao Rai Sub district. This portion of the road is rugged. But after 22 km, the road condition is better. When you reach the end of the road at a three-pronged junction, turn right into highway No 2267. From here, Phon Charoen district is just 50 km away,

However, as you reach 37 km, you will be entering So Phisai district. Go straight and you will be on highway No 2095. Drive further and you will be in the Pak Khat district at around 49-50 km. When you reach 67 km, turn right into highway No 212 and head towards the Bueng Kan district.

Sandwiched by the Mekong River on one side and green paddy fields on the other side, highway No 212 offers a scenic drive and a glimpse into the local way of life. After you are on highway No 212, look out for 115 km. When you see it, make a left turn and you will reach Ahong Silawat Temple. From Ban Dong Chanot to here, you would have driven 128.7 km.

This temple enshrines the Luang Phor Yai Kuwanan, which is cast after the Phra Buddha Chinnaraj image. Luang Phor Yai Kuwanan faces Mekong River. From the temple, you can enjoy a clear view of Laos’ landscape on the other bank of the river. In front of the temple’s pier, there is a whirlpool in the Mekong River. Locals call this spot “Navel of Mekong” and this is the first place where Naga fireballs are seen. It is believed that Phraya Naga stays overnight around here.

You can look for accommodation here too, or look for options in Pak Khat district.

Recommended: Kong Namkhun Resort by the Mekong River (0-4240-4080, 08-9712-8598); Rates – Bt350-500 per night

Now, head along highway No 212 and drop in at the Thai Temple (Wat Thai). Legends have it that an underwater city is hidden under this temple. Therefore, people from across the country flock to this temple on the full moon night of the 11 month in the lunar calendar. They all want to see the Naga fireballs. By gathering around here, they are convinced that the fireballs would be visible because they believe the Naga has to travel past here before going into the underwater city.

Drive further on highway No 212. At around 48 km, you will go past the Phon Phisai Hospital (0-4247-1204-2). At around 5 km (just three km from town), turn left into Sala Kaeo Ku or Wat Khaek. Here, you will feel like walking in an open museum. On display are a great number of giant religious statues, holy items, models of Buddhist sacred places, shrines and various peculiar sculptures, including Naga.

To go to Muang Nong Khai district, drive on the right lane and make a U-turn. Your next stop should be Pho Chai Temple (Wat Pho Chai). In this royal monastery is enshrined Luangpho Phra Sai, the sacred image of Nong Khai province. This Buddha image is cast in Mara-subduing posture and made of glittering gold. Every year, Nong Khai residents hold a Bangfai rocket festival to pay respects to Luangpho Phra Sai on the full moon of the 7th lunar month. The temple hall is open between 7am and 7pm daily. Nearby are Nong Khai Police Station (0-4241-1021, 0-4241-1071), Nongkhai Hospital (0-4241-1504, 0-4241-2316) and Nong Khai-Wattana Hospital (0-4246-5201).

Go shopping at the Tha Sadet Market by the Mekong River. There are a great variety of products from both Indochina and Eastern Europe.

From the Tha Sadet market, head along highway No 212 and go past the Nong Khai train dtation. You can seek a temporary border pass to visit Laos around there.

Dining Places: Rabiang Restaurant (0-4282-1532) and Ban Ton Kong (0-4282-1775, 08-5854-7679)

If you prefer sightseeing on the Thai side, it is a good idea to enjoy the scenic view along the Mekong River by driving towards Tha Bo district. When arriving at the three-pronged junction where the Tha Bo Municipal Market is located, turn left into highway No 2020 for Ban Phue District of Udon Thani. You will start from around 1 km of this highway. Drive straight until you find a three-pronged junction. At that junction, turn right into highway No 2021. This highway will lead you to Ban Phue district. On your way, you will go past Ban Phue Police Station before you turn right at the next three-pronged junction. After you go past Ban Phue Post Office, turn left and drive for 12 km.

Now, you are going to start from 1 km of highway No 2348. Around 8 km look out for directions to Phu Phra Bat Historical Park. You will need to drive for 5 km before you actually reach this tourist destination. Admission fees are Bt10 per Thai visitor and Bt30 per foreign visitor. This historical park puts on show human civilisation alongside stunning natural landscape. Prehistoric paintings, which date back 2,000 to 3,000 years ago, are still clearly visible. Even more outstanding here are rocks modified into religious space and religious statues made since the historic times. The park is open daily from 8am to 5pm. Nearby are Udon Thai Police Station (0-4222-2285, 0-4222-3304), Udon Thani Hospital (0-4224-4253-3) and Kai Prachak Hospital (0-4234-1710).

From Phu Phra Bat Historical Park, turn left and head towards Nam Som district. Although this portion of highway No 2414 offers just one lane each way, the road is in good condition. After you go past Nam Som Pittayakom School, there will be two lanes for each traffic direction. When arriving at the three-pronged Pak Chom-Sangkom junction, turn left and you will find yourself around 1 km of highway No 2414. From here, there are many curves lying ahead as this highway zigzags across a mountain. If you follow this route for 60 km, you can reach Pak Chom District.

By the time you reach 7 km, you are already in Ban Na Mueang Thai Community and will start seeing the complex of mountain range ahead. Such scenery will be with you until you reach 26 km. Make a right turn for Chiang Khan district at the next junction and you will be on highway No 2108. From here, a 69-km drive can bring you to Loei.

After going past a three-pronged junction at around 14 km of highway No 2108, you will go past Ban Song Puei Health Station. Go further until you find the big, three-pronged junction at the end of the route and make a right turn. You will be around 29 km of highway No 201 and Chiang Khan town will be just 20 km away. Drive to the town and check in at a good place.

Recommended: Home-stay at Grandma Sriphan’s home, where sticky rice will be provided for your alms-giving activity in the morning and it costs just Bt150 per person per night; Tel 0-4282-1797

Ruean Ram Look Mai; rate – Bt400-Bt500 per night

Suksomboon Hotel (0-4282-1064); rate – Bt500 up.

In the morning, wake up early to join the sticky-rice alms-giving ritual amid the peaceful environment. Then, drive for five km towards Pak Chom district. Along the way, visit Tha Khaek Temple (Wat Tha Khaek). This is an ancient temple by the Mekong River. Inside the temple hall are enshrined ancient and sacred Buddha images. Today, this temple embraces the Dhammayutika Sect.

Kaeng Khut Khu is a nearby tourist destination. This small islet is located in the middle of Mekong River. Washed repeatedly by water currents over a long period of time, the boulders of this islet impressively have various colours.

The Best Time to Visit Kaeng Khut Khu is between February and May, which is the dry season. When the water level in Mekong subsides, more of this colourful islet is visible

If you wish to visit the Phra Buddhabaht Phu Kwai Ngeon, drive along the Chiang Khan-Pak Chom route for about 6 km. When you reach Ban Pha Baen, you will follow a local road towards Ban Umung. A 3-km drive on this road will lead you to a road that goes uphill. Drive up for one km and there lies a footprint of Lord Buddha on a whetstone. Locals respect this sacred footprint and celebrate it with an annual festival on the full moon of the third or fourth Thai lunar month.

From Chiang Khan district, follow highway No 201. When you reach 32 km, make a left turn and head towards Ban Na Si. After that, when you reach Ban Pa Nad, just drive another 10 km and you will find Tai Dum Cultural Village. Since 1905, a group of Tai Dum people from Laos’ Chiang Kwang migrated to Ban Pa Nad in Thailand. Currently, their Tai Dum culture is still well-preserved. All local houses and daily utensils are in line with Tai Dum traditions. This village clearly reflects how Tai Dum people lived in the past. Also, you can see fabric-weaving demonstration and shop for the handmade fabric at this Tai Dum village.

If you are interested in booking a home-stay tour here, please contact Tai Dum Culture Conservation Association one week in advance (08-1048-2000). A one-night accommodation with two meals will be quite cheap.

After the visit to this village, drive towards Muang Loei and Wang Saphung districts. On your way, you will go past Muang Loei Ram Hospital (0-4383-3400). At around 185 km, you will see Wang Saphung intersection. From there, drive straight. The road is in good condition. Muang Loei Police Station (0-4281-1254) and Loei Hospital (0-4281-1541) are also nearby.

By 164 km, you will see a sign showing the entrance to Suan Hin Pha Ngam Park. Follow its instruction and drive further for 19 km along Nong Hin-Pha Wai. The road is rugged in some portions. On your way, you will go past Bodhisat Cave, Suan Hom Waterfall and Piang Din Waterfall.

Suan Hin Pha Ngam, dubbed as Thailand’s Kunming, is actually a small limestone mountain with more than 400 caves, abundant mixed deciduous forest and rich dry evergreen forest. A stroll around the area can lead to the discoveries of more than 1,000 rare plant species. A path, which winds through the park, also takes visitors to the lovely Suan Hom and Phiang Din Waterfalls.

Tourist guides are available. Admission fee is Bt10 for a visitor who comes alone. If you come as a group with two persons up, the admission fee is Bt100 per group. Each visitor must also pay Bt15 for a farm tractor ride, which will take them on a memorable tour around the park. (Information is as of January 1, 2008).There is a camping ground and tents can be rented at Bt150 per tent with a complete set of necessary equipment. Each visitor planning to spend the night in the camping ground must pay a Bt20 fee too. If you visit Suan Hin Pha Ngam Park in October or November, Mexican sunflowers would be in full bloom.

When leaving Suan Hin Pha Ngam Park, turn right into highway No 201. At around 128 km, this highway will lead uphill towards Chum Phae district of Khon Kaen. At the three-pronged junction around 95 km, make a left turn. When you reach 49 km, a three-pronged junction will catch your eyes with giant dinosaur models. At this junction, make a left turn into highway No 2038. A 19-km drive will lead you to Phu Wiang Dinosaur Museum. On your way, you will go past Phu Wiang Police Station (0-4329-1233).

This great museum is a research centre dedicated to the study of dinosaurs and the conservation of dinosaur fossils. This museum also educates its visitors about dinosaur and geographical information. Inside this museum, you will find yourself in a park with trees, waterfalls, streams and life-sized dinosaur models.

The museum also has an exhibition hall where dinosaur fossils are on display. Three large dinosaur models, made of iron structures, also tower outstandingly inside this hall. There is also a palaeontology lab. The Phu Wiang Dinosaur Museum is open from 9am to 5pm daily (0-4343-8204-6).

From the museum, drive for 3 km and you will reach Phu Wiang National Park – the site where many dinosaur footprints and fossils are found. These remains date back to nearly 200 millions years ago. Other attractions in this national park include Tak Fah Waterfall, Thap Phraya Suea Waterfall, Tham Famue Cave (Red Palm Cave) and Million-year-old shell cemetery.

For more information, please contact Phu Wiang National Park (043-249-052). Admission fees are Bt20 per Thai adult and Bt10 per Thai child. For foreign visitors, admission fees are Bt400 per adult and Bt200 per child. Each vehicle must pay a Bt30 fee before entering the national park compound. The Phu Wiang National Park is open between 8am and 4pm every day.

After leaving the national park, drive towards the Muang Khon Kaen district and you will go past the Vechprasit Hospital (0-4324-5544). Once inside the town, it’s time to look for a place to stay. Kosa Hotel (0-4322-5014-8) charges between Bt1,190 and Bt1,590 per night while PP Hotel (0-4322-6500) offers a room at Bt400 per night.

Recommended Dining Places: Kai Yang Ros Wises on Mittraphab Road (0-4322-5004), Pla Pa Yai near Beung Kaen Nakhon (0-4322-5411) and Pla Pa Noi near Beung Kaen Nakhon (0-4322-4694)

Next morning, visit Hong Moon Mang Mueang Khon Kaen (Treasure Hall of Khon Kaen city) near Beung Kaen Nakhon. This is a place to learn all about Khon Kaen. Admission fees are Bt20 per Thai adult, Bt10 per Thai child and Bt90 per foreign visitor. Hong Moon Khon Kaen is open from 9am to 5pm every day, except on Sundays. For more information, please call 0-4327-1173. Relax yourself in the nearby Bueng Kaen Nakhon (Kaen Nakhon Lake). This public park is a landmark of this northeastern province.

Before heading out of Khon Kaen, you should visit Phra Mahathat Kaen Nakhon to ask for blessings. This nine-storeyed stupa is located in Wat Nong Waeng, which is a royal monastery.

To return to Bangkok, take Mittraphab Road and travel down via Nakhon Ratchasima and Saraburi. Have a safe drive home.

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Souvenirs

Buddhasilp Mai Thai on Prempreeda Road, Sakhon Nakhon; Tel 0-4271-1548

Sodsri Mai Thai in front of Phra That Choeng Chum Temple, Sakon Nakhon; Tel 0-4271-1953

Racha Saikork on Meechai Road, Nong Khai; Tel 0-4241-2174

Mooyor Mae Tuan on Meechai Road Nong Khai; Tel 0-4242-0088

Tourism Authority of Thailand – Udon Thani office

Located in Muang district, Udon Thani Province; Tel 0-4232-5406-7 (It is in charge of tourism in Udon Thani and Nong Khai).

Tourism Authority of Thailand – Loei office Tel 0-4281-2812