| Chao Phya procession provides royals
with a breathless experience; His Majesty enjoys
magnificent sight for the first time
A slight rain started in the afternoon but ended
in time for the Grand Royal Barge Procession to
embark on its majestic journey to glorify His
Majesty the King's 60 years on the throne.
The Royal Barge Procession, which started from
the Wasukri Pier near Bangkok's Bangkhun Phrom,
floated along the Chao Phya River at a leisurely
pace - neither too fast nor too slow. The 2,200
oarsmen did not have to use all their muscles
to guide the 52 royal barges forward as the current
flowed from the north bringing along sediment
that gave the river an orange hue.
Thousands of people packed both sides of the
River of Kings to watch this historic exhibit
of the picturesque royal barges, unseen anywhere
else in the world. The Royal Barge Procession,
which has been held 14 times during the Ninth
Reign, celebrates the past and present glory of
Thailand as a land of rich culture and tradition.
The Royal Barge Procession seemed to magically
appear out of nowhere. One by one the barges passed
Their Majesties the King and Queen, members of
the Thai Royal Family and kings, queens and royal
representatives from 25 nations at the Royal Navy
Conference Hall. The Royal Barge Procession was
one of the highlights of the celebration of His
Majesty's 60 years on the throne.
Their Majesties the King and Queen and the royal
guests changed into less formal suits to watch
the Royal Barge Procession on the second floor
of the Royal Navy Conference Hall before sunset.
Earlier in the afternoon they all wore glittering
formal uniforms, with medals and decorations,
royal or traditional costumes to attend the formal
reception party at the Ananta Samakhom Throne
Hall. This marked the first time that the kings,
queens and royal representatives from all over
the world had gathered in one place at the same
time - and they came with glad hearts to congratulate
His Majesty the King's 60 years on the throne.
The Royal Navy Conference Hall, which stands
within the old palace of King Taksin the Great,
was the perfect site to watch the Royal Barge
Procession. It is located on the Thon Buri side
of the river, opposite the Royal Grand Palace.
As the royal barges slowly passed by, with the
Royal Grand Palace as the backdrop, the scene
was quite spectacular. It looked as if these royal
barges were about to float into Heaven and merge
seamlessly with the Royal Grand Palace in a majestic
view.
Phaothong Thongchua, a well-known Thai designer,
said Thanphuying Butri Veeravaidhaya once told
him that the King had remarked that he had never
witnessed a Royal Barge Procession throughout
the 60 years of his reign. The King normally takes
part in the Royal Barge Procession himself and
sits in the Suphannahongse, or the Golden Swan,
the most important of all the royal barges.
Yesterday was the first time the King could watch
the royal barges, which represent the might of
naval power from the old Siamese Kingdom and the
glory of the royal ceremony.
Nearby, on the right side of the Royal Navy Conference
Hall, is the Temple of the Dawn with its momentous
chedi, the first landmark that foreign visitors
in the past saw when they travelled up to Bangkok.
Nothing could be more picturesque and grandiose.
The current fleet of the royal barges was built
during the reign of King Rama I, who founded Bangkok
in 1782. There were more than 100 royal barges
then, many being repaired and rebuilt during the
subsequent reigns of the Chakri kings. During
World War II, about half of the fleet was destroyed
by bombing.
Of all the 52 royal barges in the procession,
there were four principal ones - Suphannahongse,
Narai Song Suban HM King Rama IX, Anantanakharaj
and Anekachart Phuchong. Narai Song Suban HM King
Rama IX was built specifically for His Majesty
the King to commemorate his Golden Jubilee in
1996. The King took part in the Royal Barge Procession
in that year to celebrate his Golden Jubilee.
Suphannahongse, which harks back to 1548 in the
Ayutthaya period, has an elegant swan as its figurehead.
The premier royal barge befits the regal status
of the King of Thailand. The other barges "protected"
these four main royal barges in a magnificent
contingent, five layers deep. Altogether they
stretched out some 1,200 metres along the river.
These escort barges were beautifully decorated
in bright colours, with carvings of mythical beasts
and characters from The Ramayana, such as Asura
Vayuphak, Pali Rang Thaveep, Krabi Ran Ron Rap,
Krut
Tret Traichak and Krut Hern Het.
Another equally important element of the Royal
Barge Procession is the chanting of barge songs.
In ancient times, barge songs were intoned to
relax the oarsmen and give pleasure to the Ayutthaya
kings and their entourages when they travelled
to the Buddha's Footprint in Saraburi to take
part in the Royal Kathin Ceremony.
The barge songs were composed in the old khap
yani style. The khap yani usually followed a strict
form, beginning with khlong si suphap as an overture
before proceeding to the poetic body with the
klon format. The rhyming of the khap yani must
be perfectly executed to render the greatest poetic
experience.
Navy Squadron Leader Thongyoi Saengsinchai composed
the barge song in three parts for this particular
occasion. The first part covers the glorification
of His Majesty and his virtuous deeds for Thailand.
The second depicts the beauty of the royal barges
and the third part describes at length the long
history of Thailand dating back to the Sukhothai
period and how the Kingdom has evolved to become
a great nation today.
For a moment in time, only the barge song could
be heard from the great Chao Phya River as the
royal barges commenced their journey. The rhythm
of the barge song - alternated with a sailor's
"aye, aye" - provided the oarsmen with
the right tempo to paddle.
The Royal Barge Procession ended in a perfect
execution. At 18.35 hours, Their Majesties left
the Royal Navy Conference Hall along with the
royal guests to the new building of the Royal
Navy to attend an exhibition displaying the King's
royal projects over the past 60 years.
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