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8 . The first university

Oct 09, 2004

With Western nations exerting increasingly strong influence on oriental affairs, Siam's 19th-century leaders reacted by receiving the foreigners in one of two ways: with enthusiasm or with caution. King Rama III was among those who chose the latter path.

A chronicle by Chaophraya Thipakornworawongse reported that, on his deathbed, Rama III warned his men, particularly Phraya Si Suriyawong (Chuang Bunnag), to be wary of the West.

“There will be no more wars with Vietnam and Burma," the monarch intoned. "We will have wars only with the West. Take care, and do not lose any opportunities to them. Anything they propose should be held up to close scrutiny before accepting it: Do not blindly trust them.”

It is believed that Rama III actually had the old, Ayutthaya-style Wat Pho (Chetuphon Wimonmanklaram) rebuilt and ordered texts to be inscribed on stone slabs around it, in order to invoke the broad, historic knowledge of the Siamese for all to see.

The inscribed texts at the temple reflected the Kingdom's wisdom of Buddhist dhamma, military strategy, medicine and pharmacology, astrology, botany, geography and even poetry in all its styles.

Everyone, from the most common of labourers, suddenly was no longer denied access to the education available in temples. They were permitted to read the texts and learn the supreme knowledge of Siam at that time.

As a result, Wat Poh came to be regarded as Siam's first university. In a 1986 article, academic BJ Terwiel noted that when the first American missionary, John Taylor Jones, visited Siam, the abbot of Wat Prayoonrawongsawat tried to convince him of the superiority of Siam's teachings regarding the earth and the universe compared to Western theories.

The American physician-missionary Dan Beach Bradley wrote in his book, “Siam Then”, that King Rama III had barred him and another foreign doctor from treating his brother, Prince Mongkut. The monarch preferred native doctors and herbal remedies.

Rama III accepted new technology and knowledge from the West, but at the same time insisted that Siamese culture remained preferable.

An inscribed stone slab at the time listed only 32 nations of the world. Ceylon (Sri Lanka) was ranked first as "a land of pure Buddhism", followed by Siam, while the Netherlands was fifth, Italy sixth and France seventh. Mighty Russia was 16th.

Even more intriguing, Great Britain -- about which Siam's leaders had the most trepidation -- was not even on the list.

Although King Rama III withheld overt support from the visiting missionaries, he did not prohibit high-ranking Siamese from studying with them. Among these was Prince Mongkut, his brother by a different mother who would become Rama IV, Mongkut's brother Prince Chudamani, Krommuen Wongsasanit, Kromkhun Dejadisorn, Chaophraya Phra Khlang (Dis Bunnag) and his sons Chuang and Kham Bunnag.

Prince Mongkut was interested most in the natural sciences, astronomy and the history of Europe and America. By late 1835 he could devise astronomical map. When he lived at Wat Boworn after being ordained, his small dwelling was full of books, including the Bible, Webster's dictionary, hydrographic texts, star maps, charts on coming eclipses and, of course, an atlas of the world.

He designed his own printing press, which could function in Thai and Pali, and later ordered one from Britain, the first Asian to do so.

Prince Chudamani (Pinklao, the Second King in the reign of Rama IV) was another high personage who was keen on Western knowledge.

A keen boat-builder and engineer, he was the first Thai who could speak fluent English, and practised Western manners, even dining in the European style. In his palace were new inventions he ordered from America and Britain.

Chudamani was also the first Siamese to let an American missionary attend to ailing members of his family. His daughters were inoculated with smallpox vaccine, another first for the Kingdom.

And, remarkably for the time, he supported the unprecedented right of Siamese women to give birth by modern means.

Nithinand Yorsaengrat
The Nation

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Updated on Oct 07, 2003