The Nation


Eating out

Talk about a rich broth!

Soup with sliced Wagyu beef

Soup with sliced Wagyu beef

Rice with shoulder beef

Rice with shoulder beef

Beef noodles in clear home-made broth

Beef noodles in clear home-made broth

Beef noodles in a traditional broth

Beef noodles in a traditional broth

Bt950 for beef noodles? Ah, but consider the cow

You can buy a bowl of beef noodles on many Bangkok street corners for Bt30 or less. At Nuer Koo, the latest restaurant to open in Siam Paragon's food zone, you pay Bt950.

And it's not like the portion is generous. You get a few spoonfuls.

But this is Siam Paragon, after all, and the noodle shop is owned and run by the offspring of three prominent (as in "wealthy") families - Pangsrivongse, Sarasin and Limatibul.

Besides that, the ingredients are as good as you can get - we're talking Kobe beef.

Nuer Koo is Thai for "soul mate" and here it has the added fun of playing with the word for beef. In its only nod to a sustainable economy, the restaurant has minimalist decor with wooden tables and floors.

"We're all beef and noodle lovers," says young and good-looking co-owner/manager Pumi Sarasin. That means him and his sister Prae, Tirawan, Phongwarut and Phongpisit Pangsrivongse, and Surachanee and Suraparp Limatibul. They're all new to the food trade but keen to follow their passion.

A hundred grams of Kobe beef sliced into a bowl of beef stock costs Bt950. A dish of rice noodles is Bt25 and Japanese steamed rice Bt40, served separately "to get the real taste of premium beef", Pumi says.

If Kobe would kill your wallet, you can have your noodles with Australian wagyu beef for Bt550 and still get that same silky marbling and melt-in-the-mouth tenderness. There's also rib eye for Bt450, under-rib for Bt350 and shoulder for Bt235.

"I personally like the shoulder," says Pumi. "It has less juicy fat but I love the chewier texture."

Aficionados of Bt30 beef noodles might at least try to scrape together Bt80 for a bowl of meatballs in a traditional broth that tastes meaty enough.

Even better, for a mere Bt165 you can get the Beef Bone Broth, one of Suraparp's father's recipes. It's light, clear and aromatic.

The menu includes rice topped with beef as well - shoulder for Bt255, rib eye for Bt470, wagyu for Bt570 and Kobe (becoming no less expensive) for Bt970.

Or shun the beef altogether and have the Pork Clear Noodle Soup with minced and sliced pork, liver, heart and innards. It's only Bt85. The version with tender Kurobuta pork is a less modest Bt125.

Yentafo - noodle soup with red-bean paste, fish balls, squid, veggies and fried wontons - goes for Bt145. Phuket-style steamed fish balls are Bt120, deep-fried Chinese chive cakes Bt80, deep-fried tofu skin Bt120, steamed tofu with minced pork also Bt120 and crispy seaweed Bt45.


<< Nuer Koo is on the fourth floor of Siam Paragon and is open daily from 11am to 9.30pm.

<< Book a table at (02) 610 9772-3.

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