Nice foie gras at Fluke's place

A Thai actor, a French chef and their friends pool talents at the Bar & the Restaurant

The Bar & the Restaurant does "classic French cuisine with a modern presentation", says chef Olivier Daniel, who owns it along with actor Krirkphol "Fluke" Masayavanich and many other people.

It was Fluke who found an empty building on Sukhumvit Soi 24 where they could realise their long-shared dream last August.

Admitting that it's "challenging" being in the food business with an actor, Daniel brings plenty to the table thanks to his years of experience overseas. Hailing from southern France, he was a professional cook by the time he was 14. He worked at a Swiss ski resort, the Aman Resort in Bora Bora, and the Villa Milocer in Montenegro before coming to Thailand.

He's brought with him the best of his homeland - black truffles, white asparagus, oysters and Brittany lobster and foie gras - for the Restaurant side of the business, upstairs from the Bar.

While Fluke floats between floors, chatting up customers, we settle at the Chef's Table right next to the frenzied open kitchen.

It's an elegant, even luxurious place, usually packed and with lots of Western and Japanese expatriates. Anyone who's not particularly hungry loiters downstairs over wine or Champagne cocktails.

I'm hungry, so I'm having Scottish salmon tartar with a whipped, tarragon-scented sour cream, fresh herbs and toast. The sour cream rouses the taste buds so they're ready for more.

"More" begins with black-truffle soup in which porcini croutons bob, and pan-fried foie gras "Rougie" on the side. A truffle from Provence is one of the finer things that Mother Earth has to offer, and it's quickly seen off.

Spaghetti Scottish salmon comes from the extensive menu of Italian antipasti and pasta dishes. Your spaghetti can also arrive cabonara or flecked with garlic bacon or anchovies or dyed with squid ink.

Lime sorbet clears the palate deck for the main course of seafood, poultry or meats. I chose US prime beef sirloin grilled on lava stone with a "secret" sauce. The meat is medium-rare and tender and juicy, the portion not too big.

For dessert, it's Pistachio Pannacotta with raspberry sauce and crispy chocolate. The pannacotta is fluffy in the mouth and not too sweet.

The four-course Scarlett set menu with Australian lamb rack or roasted snowfish is Bt2,500. There's also the eight-course Imperial set menu (Bt 5,000) with French oyster, "24-karat-gold-leaf black-ink risotto" and US prime sirloin. The Golden Menu is a la carte.

Daniel points out that all of the ingredients are imported, apart from some organic herbs from Hua Hin farms. "These are fair prices," he says.

Vegetarians, meanwhile, will enjoy the Egg Tofu Pie and Eggless Spaghetti a la Provencale.

Among the full range of alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages available, the Moet & Chandon Brut Champagne cocktails include the peachy Bellini, the Champagne Framboise with Chambord and the Rossini with strawberries and strawberry syrup.

LOOK SMART

<< The Bar & the Restaurant is at 88/1 Sukhumvit Soi 24 and open from 11.30am to 1am.

<< Call (02) 261 6677 for |reservations. The dress code is "smart casual".