The noblest feast of all


But hungry readers are advised to skip this account of the Bangkok Chefs Charity Gala Dinner

The bill was awfully steep but the food was amazing and, thanks to the high price, an accompanying auction and generous donations, Bt5 million was raised for students at Border Patrol Police schools in the Northeast.

 The second Bangkok Chefs Charity Gala Dinner brought together Thailand's top chefs, importers of first-rate ingredient, discerning gastronomes and dedicated philanthropists in the Mandarin Oriental's Royal Ballroom.

 Her Royal Highness Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn presided at the recent event, which was highlighted by an auction in which three different groups of guests bid more than Bt2 million, double last year's total.

 Kirit Shah and friends chipped in Bt640,000, Somkid Poojareunwong and friends Bt680,000 and Yuthachai Charanachitta Bt700,000.

 The reward for their generosity is yet another astonishing banquet: 13 of the chefs will feed them again, at a location of their choice.

The auction's young beneficiaries in Isaan obviously don't encounter a lot of foie gras or scented ocean trout in their neck of the woods, but the chefs will be cooking for them too - some tasty meals using ingredients they're more used to.

 The gala dinner was one to remember the guests, who hailed from the business community, diplomatic corps, politics, high society and the hotel trade.

 The Krungthep Light Orchestra welcomed everyone to a Duval-Leroy champagne-cocktail reception courtesy of Central Wine Cellar.

 The bubbly competed for attention with canapes prepared by chefs Gael Lardiere of the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers, Roberto Conrad of the Siam Kempinski, Marshall Orton of Pullman Hotels & Resorts and Michael Kronach of the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit.

 On to the epicurean feast in a ballroom decked with flowers arranged by the Sakul Intakul, including lotuses dangling from a scaffold on every table.

 Pianist Tom Payne from the Centara Grand provided the accompaniment for the nine-course meal, a pageant of eye-popping dishes made with top-notch ingredients from sisters Nuntiya and Patcharin Hame-ung-gull's Gourmet One and Beverage One.

 Emcees Varin Sachdev and Patchari Raksawong kept the guests in a euphoric state while big screens relayed the action live from the kitchen as a prelude to each course.

 The feast opened with Duck and Foie Gras Ballotine, Apple Mustard and Cepe Dust and Foie Gras in Spiced Chocolate with Wild Hibiscus Flower, courtesy of chefs Martin Faist of the Plaza Athenee Bangkok and Leslie Stronach of Intercontinental Hotels & Resorts. These were served with Joh Jos Prum 2004 Riesling from Wine Gallery.

 The second course was Yuzu Scented Ocean Trout Sous Vide, Ikura Salsa, Endive Tatin, Herb and Ginger Vinaigrette, from chefs Nicolas Schneller of the Four Seasons and Michel Breliere of the Centara Grand. It was paired with False Bay 2009 Sauvignon Blanc from South Africa, via Comte de Sibour Boutiques Wines.

 Next came Japanese Sea Scallop and Fennel-Leek Confit, created by the JW Marriott's Dieter Ruckenbauer and Le Meridien Phuket's Philippe Gaudal and partnered with Livio Fellega 2008 Pinot Grigio.

 Summer Truffle and Zucchini Cannelloni with Mozzarella Burrata Fondue and Micro Basil was the fourth course, rendered by Philippe Derrien of the Grand Millennium Sukhumvit and Stefan Artosin of the Amanpuri and paired with Chardonnay Viognier Botalcura 2006.

 The Mandarin Oriental's own Norbert Kostner and the Dusit Thani's Chef Erwin Eberharter followed up with Roast Canadian Lobster with Aniseed-Saffron and Verjus Emulsion, Silver Chard Crescent and Chorizo Crisp, alongside Pouilly-Fuisse Joseph Drouhin 2007.

 The Darjeeling and Sopadilla Sorbert by Denis Lartigue of the Conrad Bangkok was a welcome overture to the main course: Slow Roast Fillet of Wagyu Beef with Ragout of Girolle Mushrooms, Sweet Corn and Sauce Financiere. The chefs were Nam Nguyen of the Sukhothai Bangkok and Anthony Dawson of the Shangri-La Hotel Bangkok.

This came with Chateau Coutelin-Merville 2006.

 Dessert, in a stunning oval design, was Chiang Mai Passion Fruit with Samui Coconut and Valrhona Ivory Chocolate, concocted by Philip Sedgewick of the Peninsula Bangkok and Lucas Glanville of the Grand Hyatt Erawan.

 It was paired with Muscat Monsoon Valley 2009 from Hua Hin Hills, bearing a label specially designed for this occasion by ML Chiratorn Chirapravati.

 And finally there were Hand Dipped Chocolates, Petits Fours and Mignardises courtesy of executive pastry chefs Slawek Golaszewski of the Dusit Thani and Otto Jourscha of the Centara Grand.

 Seven silent auctions were held through the evening, each offering the services of chefs of the bidder's choice to cook meals for six to eight people. The top bid, Bt410,000, came from Johnny Kang of Angliss Hong Kong.

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