Footloose in the hills

Sitting high on the border between Punjab and Azad Kahmir in Pakistan, the mountainous town of Murree draws visitors for many different reasons.

For the locals, Murree, or Mari as it used to be called, has great historical importance: for one thing, it’s the resting place of the Virgin Mary. Her tomb, it’s believed, is buried underneath today’s TV tower. For the British, who ruled the roost around here before partition, Murree was a summer retreat. They put up the resort, church, school and even the brewery in order to survive the heat of summer months.

And to me Murree is a beer - the one and only beer in the dry land of Pakistan. Two nights in Islamabad and six cans of non-alcoholic beer (a beer-favoured soda, to be exact) is likely permanent sobriety. As we’re negotiating the high road from Islamabad to Murree hill station, I expect a real treat at Murree Brewery. Inshallah! We arrive a little late - about 60 years late, in fact. The brewery was burnt down during the partition riot in 1948. We’ll also have to forget any ideas of playing Tomb Raiders. Mary’s alleged resting place is heavily guarded by a small troop of armed men, making sure the TV Tower remains safe and sound. Top security is considered the finest hospitality in a country like Pakistan.

“What we can do in Murree is to walk and enjoy the panoramic views,” says Saqib, the Pakistani official who is doubling as our guide.

Murree was founded in 1851 by the Governor of Punjab, and was originally established for the British troops garrisoned on the Afghan frontier as a sanatorium.

The permanent town of Murree was constructed at Sunnybank in 1853. The church was sanctified in 1857, and the main road, Jinnah Road, was formerly known as The Mall. The most significant commercial establishments, the Post Office, general merchants with European goods, plus tailors and a milliner, were established opposite the church.

From the balcony of the Shangri-La resort, where we’re staying, I can see high mountains that remind me of the European alps. Kashmir Point (2,260 metres), the highest place in Murree, looks down a tributary of the Jhelum River and out beyond the Pir Panjal Range into Kashmir.

Starting at the military camp, we head out on foot along a well-paved path that twists through the British heritage households. The old British Army camps are now occupied by the Pakistani Army and guarded by armed soldiers. The heritage houses look sad and uncared for, which is usually the case, as the locals tend to prefer the newly built concrete blocks to the timeworn British heritage houses.

“Looks just like the US Embassy,” I remark in jest to Saqib, as we look down at a property heavily guarded by armed men.

“He doesn’t like it when you joke,” whispers my travel companion, as Saqib quickly herds us away.

We follow the small group of local tourists to a wide dirt road that winds it way along the mountain slope. On my left, where the deepening valley stretches below us, the panoramic view is dramatic. On the right, the food vendors, housekeepers and merchants of Murree ply their trade along the road.

Unlike the stern looking soldiers everywhere, the local Pakistanis are friendly and crazy about photography. As we move from one stall to the next, we stop and exchange pleasantries. Every once in a while, someone asks if we can take their photo or if we’ll pose with them for a photo shoot.

“Chinese?” the locals ask, often mistaking the nationality of our group.

“No way! We’re better looking than the Chinese,” I respond, really meaning it.

Our easy two-kilometre stroll ends at Pindi Point ��" where we can look out towards Punjab. From here, we ride the chairlift for a better valley view. The lift, which costs Rs190 (Bt70) per person, is very popular with local tourists.

Besides mountain walks, Murree also offers an opportunity for shopping at the Mall, the historic strip that stretches through the town centre. From early evening to midnight, the street is in full swing, with plenty of small shops selling traditional clothing items, head wear, carved walking sticks, jewellery items and leather goods.

“The leather man: Is he good?” I ask the fruit vendor next to the leather shop, as we’re bargaining for the best deal on a leather jacket.

“If you’re good to him, he is good to you,” says the fruit man judiciously, which is not a very helpful reply.

The used leather jacket is cool, and the price he’s asking ��" Rs350 ��" is next to nothing. We buy three and slip them on, walking away like Bollywood heartthrobs. Exotic Kashmiri headscarves and carpets are also cheap in Murree.

To get the full benefit of Murree and the surrounding countryside, you need a full week, which we don’t have. The hill station is charming all year round. In summer, it’s cool, even chilly in the evening and light rain is common. In winter, Murree hides herself under a thick blanket of snow. The hill station is now popular with Pakistanis from Punjab and Islamabad, as it offers many spots for picnics, mountain hiking and trekking.

“It is an ideal place for a family get away and vacation,” says Saqib.

With our Pakistan itinerary limited due to security concerts, we spend a full two days in Murree enjoying the panoramic beauty and fresh air. Our next stops are Taxila and Lahore ��" where the Buddhist and Islamic beauty await.