Formula for success

Jeollanam-Do, a prosperous province in the southwest of South Korea, is often referred to as the “spiritual home of Koreans”. Bordered to the west by the Yellow Sea and with some 2,000 islands dotting its coastline, the province, which comprises 17 counties and five cities, is currently preparing for many large projects, among them the debut Formula 1 Korean Grand Prix at the Yeongam circuit this October and Expo 2012 Yeosu Korea. It’s also an extremely attractive area, with sandy beaches, grassy plains and rolling mountains.

The salty sea breeze mixed with the smell of dried fish is the first thing that hits my nostrils when I arrive in the harbour area of Yeosu city.

Yeosu, which translates as peaceful water, is not a familiar name to foreigners. To Koreans though, it’s a great place to enjoy seafood and to sate the national appetite for history, as it once served as the naval base of national hero Admiral Yi Sun Shin and the harbour is home to a full size model the admiral’s famed geobukseon or turtle ships.

Admiral Yi was a commander of Jeolla Left Naval Headquarters in the Joseon Dynasty. Between 1592 and 1598, he won 23 battles against Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s navy troops as the Japanese tried to invade the country.

“Admiral Yi was a man of courage, strength, and intellect and very loyal to his country. If you visit Seoul you will see his statue in the heart of the city. His most memorable victory was the Battle of Myongnyang where Admiral Yi and his 13 warships fought off 133 Japanese warships and more than 200 Japanese support ships,” says Julie, our guide.

Another of Admiral Yi’s accomplishments was the resurrection of the ironclad Turtle Ship from pre-existing designs. The ship was mounted with a dragon’s head at the bow and a turtle’s tail at the stern. The dragon head was an early form of psychological warfare to scare Japanese soldiers. Each side of the “turtle” held 11 cannons. The deck was roofed with spiky iron plates to protect the Korean marines from arrows, and to prevent the enemy from boarding.

Jinnamgwan Hall in downtown Yeosu, which overlooks the harbour, served as headquarters to the naval forces during the Japanese invasions. Built by naval commander Yi Sieon in 1598, the hall burned down in 1609 and was repaired by naval commander Yi Je-myeon in 1716. It is the largest single-story wood building in Korea, supported by 68 large, round pillars, which are arranged and connected with a variety of crossbeams to support the structure. The tops of the pillars are finished with elegant plates and adorned with sophisticated lotus buds, to support the roof. The front and corner pillars feature dragon heads at the top.

“The memorial tablet of the reigning monarch was kept in the hall and a ritual to wish him well was held on the first and fifteenth of each lunar month,” Julie explains.

Forty minutes from Yeosu city is Suncheon Bay Ecological Park in Suncheon city. It’s a vast wetland stretching over both sides of the Dongcheon and Isacheon Rivers and plays a key role in the maintenance of the ecosystem since it provides a habitat for various marine species and migrating birds.

After a long day, nothing is as refreshing as cold makgeolli or makkoli, a thick milky liquid made from fermented boiled rice. Served unfiltered and loaded with lactic acid, makgeolli was originally a home-brew popular among farmers but now tags along with soju as one of Korea’s favourite drinks.

“The alcohol content in makgeolli is relatively low so it wears off quickly,” says one of my Korean friends.

Sipping the milky drink, I’m startled by the pungent smell and pleasantly surprised by the mildly sweet, tart, and fizzy taste. I grab the bottle to pour a second glass but my friend stops me.

“Koreans practise charye, a specific set of manners and customs around drinking. It is a rule that one never pours liquor for one’s self. When drinking with a senior, one takes liquor only when it is offered and then drinks with the head turned aside,” she says.

The next day starts at the Naganeupseong Folk Village, also in Suncheon, where more than 200 people live in the cottages of their ancestors. The village is surrounded by a fortress originally constructed in 1397 to protect the villagers from Japanese invaders and rebuilt with stone 300 years later.

Walking along the narrow alley between thatched roof cottages built from sand, clay and stone, I feel like time is going backwards to the Joseon era. I almost expect the lead actress in the Korean drama “Dae Jang Geum” (“Jewel in the Palace”) to step out of a cottage and smile at me.

The next stop is Daehan Dawon, Boseong Green Tea Field, in Boseong County. The temperate climate and high altitude make the area ideal for green tea cultivation.

We walk along a sandy path flanked by tall cedar trees on both sides to the gentle rolling hills planted with green tea. The scenic plantation is famous, we’re told, serving as the backdrop to many TV series and commercials. These fields, which are criss-crossed with walking paths and flights of stairs, produce some of the best green tea in Korea.

Walking in the tea plantation in the midday sun, my mind wanders to the cold, thirst-quenching makgeolli. Perhaps it’s the heat, but I swear I can hear the cheerful toast “gan bae!”

If you go:

>> Local people in small cities are not familiar with English so it’s best to learn a few important Korean phrases.

>> Vegetarian travellers should be descriptive about their needs as fish and seafood are widely considered as vegetarian food in Korea. Don’t be shy about asking when you see an unfamiliar dish on the table -- it may look vegetarian but it usually isn’t. Fresh vegetables and fruits are available all year round.

The writer travelled as a guest of Asiana Airlines and the Korea Tourism Organisation.