More scary Isaan people

Time again, children, for Thailand’s scariest public event, the Halloween warm-up known as the Phi Ta Khon Festival.
The phantoms have had their shrouds dry-cleaned and are rehearsing their shock tactics for the hellish nightmare that’s taking place in Loei’s Dan Sai district from June 12 to 14.
The district’s citizens aim to please, and tens of thousands of visitors will be entirely pleased by the ghostly parades whose origins are lost to history.
The perennial excuse is that the Lord Buddha, in his incarnation as King Vessandorn, decided to spend some quality time in the monkhood at a forest monastery.
When he’d had enough of that, it’s said, the joyful spirits of the woods helped his human subjects parade him back into town.
To this day Dan Sai district hosts a Boon Luang meritmaking ceremony as part of the festival. Elsewhere in Isaan it’s called Boon Prawes.
Masks are made from dried and vividly painted rice husks, complete with long pointed noses. These are worn in the procession, along with clanging cowbells at the waist.
On June 12 the spirits assemble before dawn at Wat Phon Chai and drift in a parade to the Meun River, where white pebbles are collected from the riverbed as tokens for Phra Upakud, a local Buddha statue that’s used in rainmaking rituals.
The pebbles are consecrated and taken back to the temple for more rites honouring Phra Upakud while firecrackers clatter and homemade rockets are launched with a whoosh.
The spectres reassemble in the afternoon for the Bai Sri Su Kwan ritual, which pays respects to Chao Por Kuan, the community’s guardian spirit.
The highlight of the Ghost Festival comes on the second day, when King Vessandorn’s return from the forest is reenacted. The marching spirits go out of their way to ensure audience participation, and no spectator is left unhaunted.
If you feel a little spooked, you’ll have plenty of company â€" the festival usually draws more than 100,000 people.
Fortunately, on the final day, the village spirits will be appeased by the reading of the Buddha’s 13 sermons by local monks. It’s a calm end to a hair-raising weekend.


IF YOU GO

Buses to Loei leave Bangkok’s Morchit terminal every day. Hotels around Dan Sai, about 85 kilometres from the capital, book up well in advance, so you might need a sleeping bag to bunk down at the temple or in Phu Ruea National Park.
Find out more from the Loei Tourism Coordination Centre at www.TAT.or.th/LoeiCenter, (042) 812 812 or (042) 811 405.