The new heart of Seoul


The South Korean capital unveils a refurbished Gwanghwamun Square

Oh Se-Hoon is keen to show off Seoul as a modern city sculpted by innovative design steeped in culture, but the mayor of this year's designated World Design Capital insists it's much more than that.

Among the recent urban attractions adding fresh vigour to the city is Gwanghwamun Square, which serves as an ideal starting point to explore Seoul's cultural heart. The square is where history, politics, the monarchy - and design - converge.

Located on Sejongno, the main downtown boulevard, the 34-by-557-metre gwanghwamun Square was named after the fourth king of the Joseon Dynasty of 1392-1897. It has a statue of King Sejong and a statue and fountain commemorating Admiral Yi Sun-sin.

A lovely spot for a late-afternoon saunter, it has as backdrops the Gyeongbokgung Palace, the largest in Seoul, and the mountain called Bugaksan.

Newly renovated, the square greets visitors with Haechi, the imaginary creature that symbolises justice. Nearby is a display that shows Yukjo Street in cross-section, an illustration of how roads were built during the Joseon Dynasty.

Around the Haechi is a madang - a courtyard - with a reinforced-glass ceiling. There's an exhibition hall, a nursery, a women's powder room and facilities for children and the disabled.

Everyone can quench their thirst with a sip of fresh water from the Arisu Fountain. Arisu is the brand name of Seoul's water supply, fed by reservoirs without ever passing through pipes.

A few steps from the Haechi Madang are the statue and fountain of Admiral Yi Sun-sin. The fountain is a new addition - hundreds of jets rocketing water into the air at different heights to celebrate Yi's victory against Japanese invaders in the late 16th century.

The Haechi Board attracts people with its hi-tech digital display, whose amazing sound and picture quality boosts the excitement level whenever popular events are broadcast, particularly sports.

The Waterway of History is an engraved survey of South Korea's past and future flowing to either side of the admiral's statue for 365 metres, five centimetres deep.

The statue of King Sejong honours the monarch credited with devising Hangeul, the Korean alphabet, in the 15th century. He inscribed its principles in a book, working in the Sujeong Hall of Gyeongbokgung Palace.

Koreans note proudly that Hangeul is the only alphabet in the world whose inventor, date of creation and principles of creation are all known. Sejong came up with the language in a relatively short period of time, they say, thanks to the academic research institute set up at great expense in the palace.

Hangeul is regarded as more advanced than the Roman alphabet, and the Koreans say it's the most "scientific" of all - any college-educated foreigner can pick up enough Hangeul in an hour to be able to write his name.

Below the king's statue is a chamber where you can view a chronology of the scientist monarch, who also invented a sundial, a water clock and a rain gauge.

The new-look square will soon be hosting the changing of the royal guard, traditionally seen at Gyeongbokgung Palace. The square makes room for more troops and thus a grander spectacle.

This is the fifth and final part of a series on South Korea, where the writer travelled courtesy of the Seoul Metropolitan Government.






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