The Northeastern province gets ready for its annual ‘Bung Fai’ Festival
Yasothon, 600 kilometres northeast of Bangkok, is getting ready to launch its trademark rockets into the sky from May 5 to 9. The rockets, the highlights of the annual “Bung Fai” Festival, mean no harm to Laos, Cambodia or even to neighbouring villages, but are aimed at the heavens and convey a very important message to the gods: “let the rain pour down on our fields.”
Like many festivals in Thailand, Bung Fai " literally rockets of fire " would not be complete without plenty of other activities. Drawing upwards of 50,000 spectators, it features a rocket competition, crazy mud dances and plenty of eating and drinking.
On the first few days the locals will leave their routine work behind, and head to the local temples for rocket making.
Out on the empty Isaan plains, Yasothon folk don’t need quantum physics to make their rockets fly into the blue sky. Led by monks, who seem to have the formula, these rural “engineers” put the gunpowder inside a long plastic pipe. The secret lies in how to make the rocket fly high.
Once the rockets are done, they’re loaded on to floats. Pulled by handsome bulls, the procession marches around the town allowing visitors to admire the gigantic missiles up close. In between the procession of floats, are groups of white-powdered men wearing frog masks and doing a weird dance.
The whole atmosphere is an unfakeable indicator of the style and emotion of Isaan.
On launch day, (Sunday, May 9), thousands of people will converge in Yasothon’s civic park. Projectiles will be shooting off everywhere big ones every half hour, small ones all the time. Groups of monks sit under the trees while families wander past the vendors selling beer, lao khao, chicken, wooden phalluses and balloons.
The crowd thickens where the giant rocket launchers stand at the far end of the park. They resemble ancient siege engines. The respectable-sized rockets, which roar off every 30 minute, are made of blue PVC drainage pipe and packed with explosives.
The higher the rockets go, say the locals, the more rain will come. The higher the rockets go, say the gamblers, the more they’ll win on their wagers. There is plenty of shouting.
Every soul is willing it to go higher. To bring forth good rains for wealth and for survival. Most do but some don’t " generally those that are too big, too powerful and way too ambitious.
IF YOU GO
The Rocket Festival takes place in Yasothon from May 5 to 9. The hotels are usually fully booked. If you drive, take a tent, You can pitch it in the temple grounds. Mukdahan province, a short drive from Yasothon, is your best bet for a comfy bed.