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TRAVELLERS' CHECK

Q&A: Explore rustic Nan province and homestay in Koh Pitak



Legend has it that the island was once called Koh Phee Tak, or "ghost calling", after a local fisherman saw a dark shadow waving to islanders but found nobody there.

Q: My travel plan to Northern Thailand takes in both Nan and Chiang Rai but I'm not sure about the best way of getting to Chiang Rai and then continuing to Phu Chee Fah. What's the best and cheapest route? Thank you.  Pannarai

A: Nan is one of the old Lanna provinces bordering Laos and is also one of the most remote. It's a 10 to 13hour trip by bus from Bangkok and its main bus station at the southern edge of town has regular bus services to nearby provinces including Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Phrae and Phitsanulok. However, choices are more limited than from Phrae, a province a mere two hours away.

The only bus company operating an aircon bus between Nan and Chiang Rai is Gor Sahakit, and it has just one service a day. The bus leaves Nan at 9.30am and arrives in Chiang Rai at 2.30pm. The fare is Bt164.

You may find a bus that will better suit your schedule by travelling via Phrae, which offers a wider range departures to Chiang Rai via many operators. Buses to Phrae leave Nan all day from 7am to 10.30pm.

From Chiang Rai, you can travel to Phu Chee Fah through the van service operated by Gor Sahakit Dernrot. The van carries a maximum of 12 passengers and costs Bt150 per person. It departs from terminal 1 of the Old Bus Terminal twice a day at 7am and 12.30pm.

At 1,628 metres above sea level, Phu Chee Fah is a popular destination with Thai tourists with a great view over Xaiyabuli province in Laos.

Without your own vehicle, it's not easy to get around to find guesthouses, the local markets or restaurants so you may have to think about renting a motorbike. Have a good trip.

Q: I remember a traveller I met in Bangkok telling me about a small island in the south of Thailand on the Gulf of Thailand side where the villagers were running their own community-based tourism. Any ideas where that might be? Thanks, Chalisa

A: The bestknown homestay accommodation on a southern island is Koh Yao, a Muslim community off Phuket. I suspect the one your fellow traveller mentioned is Koh Pitak in Chumphon province, which is on the Gulf of Thailand.

Koh Pitak is located in Thong Krok Bay, Tambon Bang Namjeud, in Chumphon's Langsuan District. Unlike Koh Yao, Koh Pitak is a Buddhist community.

Legend has it that the island was once called Koh Phee Tak, or "ghost calling", after a local fisherman saw a dark shadow waving to islanders but found nobody there. Those fishing in the area, fearing it would bring bad luck,  asked that the island's name be formally changed and it was given the name Pitak, which means protection. Thai people valued the auspicious new name, and started to resettle on the land.

The island is only one kilometre away from the mainland and is home to just 42 households. Most are fishermen and run their own mussel and crab farms while their families look after coconut orchards. There are no roads, schools or temples and there's only a nearby island, one kilometre away, called Koh Kram to visit.

The community has built a number of onestorey bungalows with large balconies by the sea to accommodate travellers. Visitors can chose to stay in one of these or in the homes of the villagers. The price is Bt700 for accommodation, boat trip and three meals for the bungalow stay and Bt350 for a homestay. For more, call Amphon at (081) 093 1443 or (089) 018 0664. If you plan to go, it's necessary to let them know a week in advance. Enjoy the island life!






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