The great Buddha statues of Sukhothai summon visitors from across the centuries
An uncommon devotion to their faith has taken many Thai Buddhists on pilgrimages to temples across the country and to Laos and Burma to learn more about the history of the religion and the art that celebrates it.
The spiritual calm and sense of fulfilment with which they return has resulted in the trickle of pilgrims becoming a tide of travellers, and though few wander far afield, many have gained a greater appreciation of Sukhothai.
Seven hundred years ago, during the reign of King Ramkhamhaeng the Great (1279-1298) ¡V best known for devising the Thai alphabet ¡V Sukhothai enjoyed economic, social and cultural prosperity. Its accessible, liberal ruler guided his people like a father looking after his children and, being dedicated to Theravada Buddhism, which he decreed the national religion, he built a multitude of temples.
With its temples long ago reduced to ruins, modern Sukhothai holds limited attraction for Thai travellers except during the Songkran and Loy Krathong celebrations, but theme tours, like the Bangkok Travel Club¡¦s ¡§Nine Buddhas¡¨ excursion, are boosting public appreciation for its historic wonders.
The number nine signifies progress, so a tour to see nine specific statues of the Buddha is auspicious, enhancing both merit and luck.
The tour involves visiting the original locations of nine Buddha images that were housed in Sukhothai temples but have been relocated, eight of them to Bangkok:
- Phra Buddha Roop Pang Leela at Wat Benjamaborphit
- Phra Buddha Sihing at the National Museum
-Phra Sukhothai Traimit at Wat Traimit
-Phrasri Sakayamunee at Wat Suthat
- Phra Buddha Thewapatimakorn at Wat Pho-ƒnPhra Srisasada at Wat Borwornniwet
- Phra Buddha Saiyas, also at Wat Bowornniwet
- Phra Buddha Chinnasee at Wat Mahannop
The ninth figure is Phra Ruang Rojanarit at Wat Phra Pathom Chedi in Nakhon Pathom.
There are replicas of all nine images next to the Phra Mae Ya (Grandmother) Shrine that Ramkhamhaeng built for his mother, Phra Nang Suang, in Sukhothai. (Since the people of Sukhothai regarded the king as their father, his mother was acknowledged as their grandmother.)
The shrine itself houses statues of Phra Mae Ya ¡V and the spirit of King Ramkhamhaeng ¡V to which Buddhists make daily offerings. Behind the shrine is another that houses the nine replicas.
Most of the temples that contained the originals were in what is now Sukhothai Historical Park. The most important and largest of these was Wat Mahathat, which King Phor Khunsri Intharathit is believed to have built to house the relics of the Lord Buddha.
Next in importance was Wat Sri Sawai, which remains popular among women because it¡¦s said that wishes submitted here for an ideal husband will come true.
Wat Sri Chum boasts a huge Buddha statue called Achana, also known as ¡§the talking Buddha¡¨ because words spoken behind it echo around the walls.
The Buddha images of Sukhothai are more beautiful than those of Ayutthaya, which succeeded it as Siam¡¦s capital after 200 years.
The elegant imagery survived because Sukhothai was rarely beset by war, says tour leader Khata Shinnapanchon, a fortune teller.
¡§With no wars to fight, the people of Sukhothai had plenty of time to create Buddha statues ¡V that¡¦s why they¡¦re so beautifully made,¡¨ Khata says.
The ancient city retains an aura of past glory, even in ruins. Its history and its citizens¡¦ unwavering faith stand the test of time.
The writer travelled to Sukhothai courtesy of Bangkok Airways.
HISTORY AWAITS
- Bangkok Airways¡¦ and the Bangkok Travel Club¡¦s ¡§Tamroi Kao Phra Buddha Sud Pandin¡¨ (¡§Nine Buddhas of the Land¡¨) tour goes to Sukhothai and Prae, Chiang Mai, Samui, Rangoon and Luang Prabang.
- Prices start at Bt15,500.
- For itineraries, call (02) 270 6699, extension 3, or visit www.BangkokTravelClub.co.th.
Faith beckons
The tours described here are part of the Tourism Authority of Thailand¡¦s ¡§Suk Jai Tiew Thai Serm-Mongkol¡¨ campaign, which promotes Thailand as a Buddhist crossroads.
¡§We want to stimulate cultural tourism by encouraging Thai Buddhists to visit important temples,¡¨ says ML Nantika Worawan of Bangkok Airways. ¡§Sukhothai has a great deal to offer as the ancient capital.¡¨
Sukhothai, a Unesco World Heritage site, tends to draw more foreign tourists than Thais, notes Bangkok Travel Club managing director Chollada Cheewathakorn.
¡§We try to encourage Thais to know more about history and Buddhism through these tour,¡¨ she says. ¡§The merit-making aspect and the art appeal to younger people as well these days.¡¨
