High above the rumble of Kashmir, a centuriesold peace still reigns among the monasteries of Leh
Leh is so quiet, you can hear your own thoughts echo, said my guide Rinchen, as we puffed and panted our way up the steps to the 11th century Ridzong monastery. Standing at the top surrounded by silent Himalayan peaks, I had to agree.
Covering an area of more than 45,000 square kilometres but with a population of hardly 100,000, Leh is a district of Ladakh in the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir. Ladakh, sometimes called Little Tibet because of the strong influence of Tibetan culture, has been largely untouched by the turmoil that often plagues Kashmir, the subject of a six-decade-long dispute between India and Pakistan. But the constant presence of armed Indian troops is a reminder that the subcontinent's giants have fought bitterly over the region many describe as a paradise on earth.
Perched 3,500m above sea level, Leh experiences a harsh winter from December to February when temperatures often plummet to minus-20-degrees Celsius. My hotel concierge confides that the only people who visit during those months are Russians and "some crazy Germans".
The many Western tourists who arrive once Leh has thawed out come not only for outdoor adventures such as hiking, trekking and whitewater rafting but also, it seems, for the panoply of Buddhist teachings on offer. Foreigners paying their respects at shrines was a regular sight at the monasteries I visited.
Being a former kingdom of western Tibet, Leh was a stronghold of Tibetan Buddhism for centuries, and sightseeing tours cover numerous gompas (monasteries) and chedis, many of which are hundreds of years old and filled with beautifully rendered thangkas (sacred paintings) and mandalas. The other ubiquitous feature in monasteries is the hum of chanting as monks pore over their ancient scriptures.
Shopping opportunities are limited in Leh, though there are numerous places offering trinkets, books, antiques and some interesting bags. There is even a Tibetan refugee market. Internet cafes are everywhere, with terminals catering to every language from French to Hebrew. Most restaurants and eateries in Leh town offer a menu dominated by vegetarian dishes.
Scattered across the landscape are prayer flags and prayer wheels big and small, while many monasteries are tucked away in remote hillocks and valleys to aid the process of meditation. But they are hardly stuck in the 14th century. Besides instruction in the Buddhist scriptures, monks are given a secular education.
Perhaps the serenity of the region has something to do with its people's devotion to their Mahayana faith, which prescribes a life of meditation and self-denial.
Children as young as eight enter the monasteries to be ordained as monks. Rinchen, my 30-year-old guide is himself steeped in Mahayana Buddhism, having spent two years in Taiwan studying the faith. The former civil servant is working as a part-time guide in Leh while he figures out what to do next.
On our way to the famed Thiksey monastery, less than 20km from Leh town, I even came close to a man revered by many as a living Buddha. The multipurpose vehicle I was in was stopped by a policeman at a crossroads where a small crowd had gathered. I asked Rinchen what was going on. "His Holiness the Dalai Lama is passing by," came the nonchalant reply.
As if on cue, the crowd bowed low as his motorcade whizzed past, with the man himself cheerily waving.
Apparently, he visits the region often, very likely because Leh is home to many of the up to 150,000 Tibetan refugees who have fled to India in the past half century.
The spectacular landscape and ancient structures are reason enough to visit, but it is the warm, gentle, welcoming people that are the true lifeblood of Leh. Proof of that came at the nunnery at Chulichan, famous for its apricot orchards, just down the road from Ridzong. Curious young novice nuns in their maroon robes giggled and called out "jullay" ("welcome") and offered me tea, but shied away from my camera.
Surrounded by smiling, cheerful faces, with the gentle lapping of a mountain stream resounding in my ears, I could do more than hear my own thoughts. I felt at peace with myself.
If you go …
Delhi is the most convenient gateway to Ladakh. Leh, the capital city, is about two hours by domestic flight from Delhi - Air India and Kingfisher Red have daily flights.