Three dimensions of taste

tasty November 22, 2018 11:20

By The Nation

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As part of its Michelin-star guest chefs series, the St Regis Bangkok will have German chef Thomas Buhner, previously of the famous La Vie restaurant in Osnabruck in Northwest Germany, taking over the kitchen at Jojo restaurant from December 12 to 15 to serve a four-course set lunch and a seven-course set dinner and on December 16 for Sunday Brunch at Viu.

 “My aspiration is to inspire with my modern three-dimensional aromatic cuisine,” says the chef. “The first dimension constitutes each individual product’s natural flavour. The second dimension describes how dishes are prepared. The third dimension represents the extensive range of the cuisine.”

In the first dimension, chef Buhner believes there is no flavour more intense or authentic than the pure flavour of each individual ingredient. This is highlighted in his venison dish as his “taste bomb”, where the jus is developed using the unadulterated juices of the meat, boiled down and vacuum-evaporated for its essence.

In the second dimension, the chef has a penchant for slow and low-temperature cooking, such as braising or sous-vide methods, rather than pan-searing, such as for fish fillets. He feels the relaxed approach in the kitchen allows for brilliance on each plate and brings out different aromas in the food.

His third dimension ensures his menu experience is like the composition of a finished symphony, rather than disparate courses playing contrasting tunes. He playfully arranges his plates to evoke emotions and create a dramatic sensuous experience. His resulting vibrant plated works of art stimulate the senses, with beauty, mouth-watering scent and mind-blowing taste. 

At Jojo, he will begin with yoghurt foam, beetroot and apple, complemented by imperial caviar. Otoro tuna is then paired with wild cod, consomme and saffron. Next up, a mango gazpacho is topped with deep-sea cardinal prawns and venus shell abalone. A potato foam is served with savoruy curry ice cream, followed by etouffee pigeon and foie gras, which is married with the flavours of caramelised pumpkin juice, wild mustard and dandelion tips. In a rich exotic stock, tender venison is matched with red cabbage cream and a celery cream. To end on a sweet chocolate note, a liquid savarin of guanja lactee is served with cherries, mulled wine and puffed quinoa.

The four-course set lunch costs Bt2,900-plus and the seven-course set dinner goes for Bt4,900-plus. 

The Sunday brunch is priced Bt2,850-plus.

 For reservations, call (02) 207 7777 or visit