• Mille-Feuille Katsu in original plain flavour
  • Potato salad
  • Traditional green tea ice cream with cheesecake
  • Anujtha and Supassorn Jaovisidha with Ito Ryosuke, from left

Luscious in layers

tasty May 06, 2018 01:00

By Kupluthai Pungkanon
The Sunday Nation

4,959 Viewed

Japan’s much-loved original Mille-Feuille Katsu restaurant Kimukatsu arrives in Bangkok



ADVERTISING ITSELF with a promise to create 25 layers of happiness, Kimukatsu, the original Mille-Feuille Katsu restaurant from Japan, recently marched into Thailand and set up shop at Central Plaza Rama III.

This hands-on mille-feuille pork cutlet dish offers an authentic taste of tonkatsu that’s crispy on the first bite and soft and juicy on the second. And while the portion is satisfying, it doesn’t leave you feeling bloated but instead maybe wanting more. 

And that’s the whole point, says Ito Ryosuke, who set up the brand in 2003. 

The restaurant boasts a cosy Japanese-style ambience.

“Many people, and especially men, choose to go to a tonkatsu restaurant because they want a big meal. It’s different for a woman. She sees a deep-fried pork dish and while she knows it’s delicious, she’ll be considering the fat factor and maybe feel a little guilty if she is on a diet,” Ryosuke explains.

“Our refined method of thinly sliced pork in 25 layers gives the dish a remarkably light, soft, and juicy texture on the inside, and crispy on the outside.”

Mille-Feuille Katsu in original plain flavour

The top six favourite katsu menus – Original/Plain, Cheddar Cheese, Garlic, Black Pepper, Negi Shio (Japanese Spring Onion) and Yuzu Kosho – have been carefully selected and adjusted for the Thai palates by Anujtha and Supassaorn Jaovisidha of Kimukatsu (Thailand). They’re priced at Bt330 per set. Other options include Fried Prawn Katsu (Bt350) and Salmon Cutlet (Bt320).

 The dishes are made with quality free-range pork loin from Happy Farm pounded into thin slices then wrapped in 25 layers using a technique that allows the perfect amount of air in between each. The layered portions are dipped in flour, then egg before being tossed in breadcrumbs station then deep-fried in a bath of healthy canola oil.

Mille-Feuille Katsu Negi Shio is flavoured with Japanese spring onion.

“It’s important that the chef uses canola oil to deep fry. The way we prepare the cutlet means that the pork cannot be cooked at a very high temperature since it might burn the breadcrumbs, so it requires a lot of oil. Using good oil is one way for us to express our concern for the health of our customers,” Ryosuke says. 

 The plain and the cheese flavoured katsu dishes are the most popular, but it’s more than worth sampling the Yuzu Kosho for its lovely citrus scent or the Negi Shio for its strong spring onion aroma. 

All go well with the rich tonkatsu sauce imported from Japan or with the chef’s special ponzu, which levels out the cutlet flavours with some tangy pops. 

“Our signature tonkatsu sauce has a strong yet balanced taste due to our refined method of fruity fermentation,” he explains. “A slight acid flavour goes very well with deep-fried pork, which gets greasy when cold.” 

Fried Prawn Katsu

The set includes freshly shredded cabbage salad. The cabbage is grown here in a pesticide-free greenhouse from seeds imported from Japan and the salad comes with as many refills as you want as well as a choice between roasted sesame and Japanese sesame soy sauce dressings. 

Starting with the cabbage is good as it not only absorbs the oil but also allows time for customers to enjoy the meal while waiting for main dish, which takes about 15 minutes to prepare. 

Japanese steamed rice takes more than six hours to perfect.

And the steamed rice adds to the delicious taste of the tonkatsu. Anujtha has selected to use Japanese short-grain rice, which is famous for its signature cooked-when-ordered freshness. 

“We soak the grains for six hours then steam them for exactly 15 minutes before serving the rice in classic pine bowls that maintain the heat and fragrance. We don’t keep the rice for more than one hour. So that means our customers are served with hot freshly cooked tonkatsu and rice every time,” she says.

Spicy Ebimayo 

In addition to the featured katsu dishes, Kimukatsu offers a range of appetisers including Spicy Ebimayo (Bt120), fried prawns drenched in a special multi-spice infused sauce; and Negishio Tofu (Bt100), fresh, bite-sized white tofu dressed with Japanese style sesame oil dressing and Japanese spring onion, though only a limited number of servings are available each day. 

Homemade Negisho Tofu

The Potato Salad (Bt130) has a smooth texture and is enhanced with fried shallots for a sweet and salty taste and comes with other accompaniments including boiled egg, bacon and chunks of carrot.

The dessert highlight is the four-selection option featuring Blueberry Ice Cream Mochi, Mango Ice Cream Mochi, Traditional Green Tea Ice Cream with Cheesecake, and Vanilla Ice Cream served with mildly sweet red bean paste and whipping cream. It’s priced at Bt90.

Blueberry Mochi Ice Cream

“One of the reasons we decided to bring Kimukatsu to Thailand at this time despite there being so many Japanese restaurants here already is that we felt Thai customers were ready. They are already familiar with the look and taste of tonkatsu so they can tell the difference between standard servings and our mille-feuille style. 

“It is a Japanese tradition to specialise in restaurant types like ramen or udon. Our commitment is to the mille-feuille katsu,” Ryosuke says. 

READY TO SERVE

Kimukatsu is on the sixth floor of CentralPlaza Rama III. 

Keep up with news at Facebook Page: Kimukatsu.Th and Instagram: Kimukatsu.Thailand or call (061) 535 8666.