Frankenstein prints, red leather trousers and dressinggown style coats make an impression in Milan
After threeandahalf intense days, Milan Fashion Week drew to a close on Monday and handed over to Paris for the next stage in Europe's season.
Here is an overview of the main trends for men's fashion as well as women’s styles for the AutumnWinter 20192020 season, plus a short commentary on some of the more remarkable outtakes from the shows.
In red and black
For many designers this season was all about red and black.
For fashion house MSGM, men wore red leather trousers with black stripes on the side accompanied by mixed colour jackets.
For Versace, the letter V covered their twotone pullovers, while at Prada women wore red derbies with elegant black dresses and men posed in burgundy vests and black jackets.
Leopard, snake or fish?
The animal world also inspired this season. At Versace, men wore long leopardprint coats with short hair dyed to match.
Snakeskin prints were on shirts at Marni and on overcoats and pants for M1992. Dsquared2 offered fishscales in multicoloured tones.
Emporio Armani offered a python effect on men’s pants and jackets, as well as a zebra blazer.
Another trend this season is the use of audacious combinations of colour.
Men at MSGM showed off an extravagant mix of fluorescent yellow sweater collars with orange wind¬breakers and pink trousers, as well as various other combinations.
Orange was also a key colour in trousers and jackets by John Richmond.
Meanwhile, Versace offered men the chance to wear suits with black and yellow stripes and a flashy pink overcoat.
Fur on display
At Prada, black caps were on dis¬play with reversable furry insides and colourful trims.
Fur also made an appearance on epaulettes or tassels, inspired by cer¬emonial military style wear.
At Emporio Armani fur also appeared on bags and backpacks, and Fendi showed off camelhair jackets.
Italian oomph from D&G
Dolce and Gabbana mixed checks, furry gloves and shimmering dressing gownstyle coats in their first presen¬tation after the fashion house was forced to apologise to Chinese cus¬tomers in November for posting short clips on Instagram showing a Chinese woman eating pizza, spaghetti and a cannoli with chopsticks.
The uproar escalated when Stefano Gabbana allegedly used poop emojis to describe China and hurled insults at the country and its people.
But the pair steered clear of con¬troversy in Milan with a collection named Eleganza.
The backdrop oozed 1930s Berlin decadence with giant red curtains, jazz and a master of ceremonies recre¬ating a Cabaret ambience.
To highlight Italy’s mastery of cloth, an atelier was also recreated with tai¬lors and fitters taking measurements and cutting and stitching as the mod¬els walked up and down the ramp.
Models showcased quirky styles, teaming tailcoats with plaid trousers, matador suits with sparkling bow ties and a ginger velvet suit with black lapels.
D&G did not skimp on Hollywoodlevel glamour incorporating colours such as midnight blue, burgundy and deep purple.
A study in contrasts
The Prada Men’s and Women’s Fall/Winter 2019 offered a roman¬ticpop vision playing with the ten¬sion between human sensitivity and the dangerous roughness of life.
Shown in the grand hall of the Deposito, the multifunctional venue for performances that is part of the Fondazione Prada complex, the label had its models walk, distanced from the crowd, through an artificial ter¬rain made of dimly lit glass and soft spiky foam, reminiscent of a scene from a science fiction movie.
Military influences blended with traditional shapes, precision tailor¬ing and pocket details. Outfits were sculpted with bustiers and belts to create sleek, formfitting looks while padded nylon was paired up with classic fabrics and shapes. Backpacks, always in padded nylon, metaphorically represented one’s own personal baggage.
Prints showed exaggerated romantic symbols mixed with pop cartoon symbols, like broken hearts, roses, Frankenstein and lightning.
Classic fabrics included silk, wool gabardine, cashmere, kid mohair, a mohair/alpaca blend, nylon, tela tec¬nica pro, embroidered cotton, English formal fabrics such as Prince of Wales, and pinstripes.
Back to the future
For Marni, artistic director Francesco Risso explored the desires of the new and rebellious generation who know what they like and go all out to get it. Stylish and sometimes quirky, his wardrobe was simple with a bold silhouette and boasting plen¬ty of loose fitting and colourful casu¬als such as extralong trousers, striped mohair jumpers as well as animal printed parkas and anoraks. Silk shirts and pyjamalike trousers were splashed with vibrant patterns drawn from Bruno Bozzetto’s 1976 animation “Allegro non troppo”.
There was classic too –boucle coats, moleskin jackets and trousers and oxford shirts, all in bold pro¬portions. Leather jackets were worn with misaligned pinstripes and banana sock boots,
Mysteries of the forest
Etro recounted a dreamlike tale through an installation conceived in the boutique of via Monte Napoleone, guiding the viewer through an enchanted forest burst¬ing with flowers, fairies and elves in its menswear collection.
Fairy’s flowers grew on a printed fabric jacket, while the bomber jack¬et with warm autumnal colours were woven with silk threads for a threedimensional jacquard tale. The bark took on unusual shapes and colours on a velvet dressing gown with car¬nelian tones embellished with jew¬elled brooches.
The soft trench coats were rebuilt and destructured for a relaxed yet refined fit, while the trousers with side band hinted at an urban verti¬cal forest.
The colours, from warm and diur¬nal, were mysterious and elusive while materials were fine, transforming the contemporary nature of the oversized parka with quilted hood into a medievalstyle tapestry, in which the gobelin fabric was combined with flo¬ral flock for a velvety touch.
Different materials and colours intertwined; for example, velvet was adorned with a golden patina and combined with tonsurton orna¬mental patterns.
Urban meets jungle
The energy of the animal world and the wideopen spaces of natural sce¬narios freed up the horizon of the con¬crete jungle and the natural ambience of the Emporio Armani man. This col¬lection was designed for this hybrid habitat, with a pragmatic and sporty imprint yet remained urban at its core.
Narrowshouldered jackets, coats with strong volume, fluid trousers with a cuff at the hem shaped a physical, svelte silhouette. The sensuous tex¬tures and the colours were the distin¬guishing features, creating a signature made up of cool colours, as well as wild patterns inspired by the coats of Albino animals.
Carding, lasering, screenprinting and other artisanal techniques pro¬duced animal motifs on clothes and accessories: pythoneffects on trousers and jackets, crocodile scales on blousons, feline stripes and zebra pat¬terns on evening blazers and pullovers.
The palette was an icy mixture of optical white and cool white, with notes of grey with a frosted patina and blue, red, and black accents in the checks and prince of Wales patterns.
The look was rounded off with technicallooking shoes, roomy fur backpacks, flat duffel bags with zebra stripes and body pieces such as belt bags and vests.