Jewellery for spring–summer 2019 offers an equilibrium between innovation and tradition. An aesthetic that showcases the virtuosity of the human hand and the intimate relationship between metal and the body. A study of form, excellence in know-how.
Chain, links and rings all join the dance. The anchor chain, the heroine of Hermès collections, lies at the heart of the choreography. Its fine links in rose gold, echoing the softness of leather, here and there encounter larger rings. The curb chain, dense and regular, is dressed in silver so as to join them. The more intermittent construction of jaseron mesh also enters this farandole. Before arriving at this harmonious composition, each link was patiently polished, the chains meticulously assembled to each other by hand. The artisans took their time to ensure that every square millimetre of metal reflected the light necessary for this display. The necklace takes on its full uniqueness when laid flat, forming a square. Pierre Hardy designed it to adorn the décolleté or dress the neck generously. A brilliant design that almost calls for a frame.
In the beginning was silver plate, raw, matt, of a deep grey. By patiently polishing the metal, the craftsman sculpts the light. To succeed in giving it this wondrous radiance requires all the genius and skill of the human hand. The silver appears liquid, molten, as if it were alive. The work on the form accentuates the effect. Like a sculptor with clay, the jeweller models the precious material to build plastrons and cuffs, like radiant sculptures, at once solid and light. Their rounded corners outline an H, like a trompe l’œil. Pierre Hardy imagined adorning modern horsewomen, armed with their spirit and their femininity. Like sublime shields, these pieces underline their strength and their daring.
Hermès has always been interested in the question of the harness, the link, the attachment. In this Vertige, the heart is masked. This is its strength and its beauty. Its design, imagined by Pierre Hardy, blurs when the piece slides onto the finger or wrist, almost to the point of disappearing. Only the wearer knows it. And yet, on closer inspection, this form has more than one variable. This unending ring, symbolising eternity, fits either one or two fingers, can be worn upside down or with the point turned upwards. In gold or silver, its hollow can house a solitaire diamond. “I will wear my heart upon my sleeve…”