Presence of the Lord

Journey of the Buddha' at the VR Museum is a story of faith wrought in clay, stone, metal and gems

Visitors to the VR Museum are following the |"Journey of the Buddha" beneath the great black and white dome via an impressive array of Buddha images from the sizeable collection of King Power chairman Vichai Raksriaksorn.

Vichai wants to share his enthusiasm for the historic statuary and the lesson they represent: "Dharma is not a theory but a way of life."

The figures of Buddha in various styles and postures and other important religious deities are splendidly displayed around the museum in the Crown Atrium of the King Power Duty Free Complex.

There are 41 Buddha statues from different countries, and you're guided through their origin and background by an audio-visual recording that plays on an iPod they give you. The audio tour is available in five languages.

A very human guide is on duty, though - Patison Benyasuta - who points out on a map in Gallery 1 the places where Buddhism blossomed over the ages.

It's a little difficult to concentrate on the map when there's a glorious Standing Buddha watching you.

It's from India, from the Gandhara period of the second and third centuries, when artisans first began carving stone on all sides to evoke the full three dimensions.

And alongside it is a beautiful Standing Maitreya Boddhisattva from what is now Pakistan, perhaps 1,400 years old. This is an early specimen of the preaching posture. In the square face, the eyes are set with semiprecious stones.

The Southeast Asian collection clearly traces developments in form and style in the statuary.

You see, for example, a bejewelled Lop Buri Meditating Buddha from the 13th century, wearing a Khmer-style costume with earrings, breast chains, bracelets and belt, and a lotus crown.

Another Standing Buddha - frozen in a posture of "fearlessness" and made between 1000 and 1100 AD, is a sample of the "Pagan style", influenced by Indian art, Patison explains. Such figures usually have elaborate costumes to reflect their wealth and power.

A Srivijaya-style Sakyamuni Buddha from the eight or ninth century displays innovations in cast bronze.

The Sukhothai Period is reflected in a delicately refined Walking Buddha from the 14th or 15th century. The artisans' ability and creativity in moulding stucco are already evident.

"In our country Buddhism thrived most in the Sukhothai era," Patison says. "The Buddha images from that time are the most beautiful of all."

Gallery 2 has windowed cases with large magnifying glasses attached so that you can closely examine the sacred amulets inside. These come from the temples and revered monks that have become famous for the medallions they create.

Amulets, as well as Buddha statues and votive tablets, were originally made to help preserve the faith, and only later became holy objects in their own right. They continue to be worshipped as a way of gaining merit and good fortune.

The Great Quintet of Amulets on view comprises the "Phra Somdej" piece from Wat Rakangkositaram, the "Phra Rod" from Wat Mahawan, a "Phra Pongsuphan" from Wat Phrasirattanamahatat, the "Phra Nang Phraya from Wat Nang Phraya and a "Phra Sum Kor" from Wat Kampaengphetch.

Any of these would command a handsome price among collectors.

The Eye-Closed Quintet Amulet, in a separate display case, was believed to protect the owner from danger. The Emperor Thirteen Amulets are made from different materials. The Shin Quintet Amulets are metal in shades of black and silver.

In Gallery 3 you have the northern kingdom of Chiang Saen, with many Lanna-style Buddhas, in the Subduing Mara pose, from the 14th and 15th centuries. Again, the artistry is amazing.

"Lanna-style art and techniques were influenced by the Kingdom of Sukhothai," Patison notes. "The designs were inspired by lions and lotus blossoms, while most of the Buddha figures are plump and have oval faces."

An U-Thong-style Buddha shows a familiar design that's seen everywhere in Thailand. The face is square with elongated ears, prominent eyes and nose, and a smiling mouth.

In the Ayutthaya Period, the images were more often adorned with jewels. A Standing Buddha from the 16th century is seen "calming the ocean". Distinctively, his robe covers the whole body and he wears a large necklace and a crown.

"The design emphasises wealth, and continued to be very popular into the reigns of Kings Rama I and Rama II - the Buddha is dressed as a king," Patison observes.

In Gallery 4 you slip behind a black curtain to be confronted by a breathtaking assembly of Buddha images from the Sukhothai Period, with the impact of their presence bolstered by stirring light and sound.

And then, as if rising into Heaven, Gallery 5 is under the dome, in the open air, with an encircling collection of Buddhas in all of the various styles and postures.

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POWERING UP

<< The VR Museum is on the ground and second floors of the King Power Duty Free Complex on Rangnam Road. It's open daily from 10 to 6.

<< Tickets cost Bt100 (Bt20 for students, free for King Power members, Bt200 for foreigners). Proceeds from ticket sales go to the King Power Foundation.

<< Find out more at (02) 677 8899 and www.KingPower.com/VRMuseum.