Rooms with a view

Well-run hotel with friendly staff is in a good location. Photo/Vipasai Niyamabha

Visit the remote district of Mae Chaem, an enchanting valley that's less than three hours' drive from Chiang Mai but where life is lived at a much slower pace, and you'll almost certainly end up staying at the Mae Chaem Hotel. First and foremost, it's been around for three decades and is regarded as the best budget accommodation for miles around. Secondly, the hotel is within easy walking distance of the town centre and local market, meaning that it's ideally located for a leisurely stroll to shop for local vegetables.

Another reason for staying is that you can't help but fall in love with the charming simplicity of this nostar remote inn that offers all the basic facilities a traveller on a budget could possibly need.

The trick is not to be put off by appearances. It's true that as you turn into the entrance off Sudsanit Road, the old two-storey building, home to the original Mae Chaem Hotel, looks more like a police station more than an inn. It's still operational though, with the guestrooms in this old building today catering to the extremely low-budget traveller at just Bt150 a night.

For those with a little more cash to spare, there are new bungalows in the backyard, built over the years to accommodate the ever-increasing number of tourists. These A-frame b- bed, television, fridge and fan and complete with attached toilet/hot shower, they're priced at Bt400 a night. You don't really need airconditioning at this time of the year but if you can't sleep without, you'll only pay Bt600 a night.

There are plenty of bungalows from which to choose, from wooden ones at the front to concrete ones behind the swimming pool.

Bigger guestrooms for four people are also available (A6 and A8) and are furnished with two king-sized beds for Bt1,000 a night. If you're travelling in a group of six and want to stay together, opt for the two-bedroom bungalow (A9) at Bt1,500. All prices are net and exclude breakfast.

The place may not be sparkling but it's clean enough, with maybe a little dust in the corners, but the toilets are fine. Each room is provided with a roll of poor-quality toilet paper, a tiny bar of strongly scented soap and towels.

There's plenty of parking space too, so if you're driving, you can leave your car in front of your bungalow.

One thing guests may not expect is a swimming pool. Mae Chaem Hotel boasts a 25metre pool as part of its sports club and while the water's too cold at this time of year, guests will welcome a dip in summer.

The hotel restaurant is located just next to the pool and offers a simple menu of fried rice, noodles, curries, stir fries plus some northern dishes.

Visitors to Mae Chaem district will relish relaxing in the peaceful surroundings and enjoy shopping for handwoven textiles as well as walking around the temples. Those who want to venture further afield and explore the Mae Chaem River should enquire at reception: the hotel offers a 90minute kayaking tour for a very reasonable Bt600.

AT A GLANCE

High Point: This well-run hotel with friendly staff is in a good location and offers great value.

Low Point: At first glance, it looks shabby. Don't be put off by appearances though. The newly built bungalows are behind the original building..

Find it: 104/4, Sudsanit Road, Tambon Chang Kerng, Mae Chaem District, Chiang Mai 50270

Pay for it: Prices range from Bt150 a night to Bt1,500 a night excluding breakfast.

Book it: (053) 828 025.