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Miyake's pleats please collection spreads the winter cheer



Issey Miyake has some honestly vivid colours in his Pleats Please autumn-winter collection, which has arrived at the Siam Discovery Centre after bouncing eyebrows around in Paris, London, New York and Milan.

Club 21, the line's distributor, unveiled the collection last Friday with the focus on what keeps us warm this winter, "Flying".

Miyake infuses his clothes with hopes, dreams and the bravery to fly freely, as symbolised in his choice of prints, shapes, textiles and techniques.

Vivid orange, sparking lime, bright yellow, shocking pink and ocean blue are dominant, though black, grey and beige maintained a classic presence.

The designs are minimal, smart and chic.

The "Colourfulness" line boasts the bold and overlapping shades of a speed racer and the vivid colours of a hang glider. Diagonal lines convey vibrancy, and natural gradations and a generous use of fabric make the series comfortable to wear.

Casual outfits in plain hues include knee-length pants and skirts, loose trousers, angle-jumped pants, sleeveless blouses, tank tops, shirts, coats and jackets with hoods.

The dresses get colourful graphic prints for extra elegance. All of this is given added impact thanks to unconventional techniques in the cutting and sewing, which are completed before the pressing rather than after.

The possibilities for mixing and matching seem endless - shirts can even be worn upside down. A bright-yellow sleeveless blouse teams with a vivid orange skirt, a purple scarf with red stockings. An ocean-blue blouse and matching trousers look great with multicoloured jackets.

The pressing methodology and an unusual silhouette add volume to the series "Fluffy Pleats", "Flying Discus" and "Tulle Dance", all of which use lightweight cloth.

Inspired by kites and balloons, Miyake prints them on the back of his dresses to carry the wearer aloft.

His scarf is an artwork, with volume and multiple functions. It can tie over a tank top as a belt, wrap the head or double for jewellery.

The bags range from balloon bags made of waterproof canvas to basket-like bags of small, two-tone polyester plates.


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