Saving a bygone beauty

The Bangkok Metropolitan Administration is backing similar efforts by locals to conserve the historical charm of Samphraeng with plans for a cultural festival of its own.

The 42rai neighbourhood in Phra Nakhon district is a showcase for King Rama IV and V's plans to modernise 19thcentury Siam with shophouses, fresh markets and trams.

Festival of historical treats

"Tarn Arharn, Chim Kanom, Chom Ardee Samprang" ("Enjoy Food, Desserts and Learn About Samphraeng's History") will be held between September 18 to 20, 11am to 11pm. "We'll focus on the rich historical background of the area including Phraeng Nara, Phraeng Phutorn and Phraeng Sanphasart, which house lots of old shops," said BMA Governor MR Sukhumbhand Paribatra.

More than 300 families living in the neighbourhood's 144 her¬itage buildings will join the event. Community leader Teeraporn Kachaceevar says about 40 shops will also be part of celebrations, which will include an exhibition on bygone days in Samphraeng. Traditional plays and outdoor cinema will add to the nostalgia.

"We're hoping the Suntaraporn band will turn up to play," said Teeraporn. The idea of the festival is to bring the area to the attention of the average city resident. "We want people to be able to jump in a taxi and ask for Phraeng Phuthon without adding that it's near Chao Por Sua Shrine."

After holding a similar event on a smaller scale in 1998, the community believes this time it can do better.

Teeraporn says that residents are desperate to promote their case for sustainable development of the area. "There are plans for building and infrastructure but we believe the community should be consulted over all new development."

Samphraeng was home to the country's first market of luxury goods, opened during the reign of King Rama V. Many of the other commercial buildings that first rose here when roads replaced canals  are still operating. "So far 10 to 15 per cent are still in the business as shops," says Samphraeng Community president Kanlawat Talathat.