Frantic foam ahoy!

Okay, so it wasn't the bone-crunching rapids in Kaeng Hin Ploeng in Prachin Buri, but those 40 kilometres of the Pai River in north¬ern Mae Hong Son province - a seven-hour odyssey - still gave me one of the most thrilling experiences of my life.

Buckled into a lifejacket and helmet, I was raring to go, barely registering the instructions, like hanging onto the paddle no matter what happens to the boat because it'll help keep you afloat.

In each raft were six keen adventurers and a pair of experts. Our experts were not amused when we informed them we couldn't swim, but they were prepared to proceed anyway, as long as we obeyed their commands as to when to paddle and when to stop paddling.

Defy their instructions at our own peril, they advised, especially in the river's narrow stretches, where the rapids are strongest. They were experienced, they said, and their decisions are crucial.

Okay, already, let's hit the surf!

Readers are forgiven for thinking at this point that my cockiness was begging for trouble, but my boat, I'm pleased to report, experienced no untoward incidents at all.

That's more than can be said for two other teams on the journey.

Another raft's passengers - foreign teenagers - paid the price for their skippers' keenness to boost the excitement factor. When they hit the rough water, the "experts" went for the big wet, steering them into the worst of it.

The boat tried to capsize but only managed to toss two of the passengers into the drink. One of the teens managed to clamber back aboard, but the other was not so lucky.

In churning, rock-strewn waters, a whirlpool grabbed the youngster and wouldn't let go.

Cries for help went up all around and all of the skippers rushed to the scene, some hopping along the bank, keeping pace with the boy as he was dragged around. Others swam out, and still others threw a rope.

After spending a full two minutes inspecting the riverbed with¬out a chance to breathe, the youth was finally rescued. He was dragged to the shore, exhausted. It's lucky he was strong enough to fight the rapids so long.

One of our captains thought this was a good time to tell us that if we too got trapped in a whirlpool, try desperately to get to the riverbank. Letting yourself be carried along by the current was risky, he said, because of the hidden rocks and the danger of being drawn back into the eddy.

Meanwhile I was thinking about an email that a friend had forwarded me about the "rip current" at Rayong's Mae Rampueng Beach, a watery black hole that had taken several tourists' lives.

Back in real time, a second raft dived into trouble, though not as scarily. Our skippers blamed it on their skippers underestimating the claws of a tree that was taking a bath in the middle of the river.

The raft got snagged among the branches, forcing the captains to call out, "Abandon ship!"

Fortunately the river wasn't so deep or wide at that point, so it was just a short swim to safety. It was left to the experts to deflate the boat and drag it ashore.

We were lucky to have guides who were not only experienced but able to enhance our enjoyment. At times they tilted the raft wildly for the thrill of it, and at other times they made us paddle against the rapids to test our strength.

But they always asked if we were okay with it.

What impressed me most was being able to jump into the water even though I can't swim. I could enjoy a cool and refreshing dip in the beautiful river thanks to the life-preserving gear, and it was the most special moment in my life.

Yes, the rocks chipped at my feet, since I wasn't wearing shoes, but it was worth it - I was overjoyed floating by myself along the current.

The river adventure also presented a chance to try something else I'd always wanted to do: jump off a cliff. But 15metrehigh Pha Wat Jai - Willtesting Cliff - proved just too daunting. There were few takers once we peered over the edge to the deep river far below.

Nevertheless, if you too yearn to try whitewater rafting and need a spot that's not too ferocious, the kinder, gentler rapids of the Pai River await, along with breathtaking views.

Hold on tight

The best period for rafting is during the rainy season from July to February.

You can sign up for a day's excursion or a two-day adventure. The single day costs Bt800 for Thais and Bt1,200 for foreigners.

Rafting requires a local, experienced guide. Get all the facts from the Mae Hong Son tourism office at (05) 361 29824 and tatmhs@tat.or.th or the Pai River Basin Wildlife Reserve at (08) 6420 3807.