Colonial charms

Large, well-kept colonial houses once marked Sathorn as a residential area favoured by Bangkok noblemen. The serene Sathorn canal run along the centre of the road shaded by leafy trees on both sides. Over the last 60 years or so, this picturesque spot has been completely transformed, with the canal filled in, the villas replaced by highrise buildings, and Skytrain running overhead.

I remember noticing an old house with a badly damaged roof in a soi off Sathorn a decade or so ago and wondering if it too would be razed. Then last year, I saw to my delight that it being renovated. Now with a new roof, painted in a mustard shade and boasting a lush garden, it's operating as a nine-room hotel under the name Baan Pra Nond.

Inside, the front room is comfortably furnished with a sturdy leather sofa and chairs where guests can watch television or read a book. A door opens to the backyard, which offers a tiny swimming pool and canvas chairs for anyone who wants to catch some rays in the heart of Bangkok. There's also space to enjoy continental breakfast, served daily from 8 to 10am.

Guests will feel like they are staying at a friend's home rather than in a hotel, with an old photograph of Pra Nond, the former owner, displaying on the wall upstairs. The old house itself accommodates just three rooms - a master suite, a junior suite and a deluxe room.

The master suite is the largest room available and offers 28sqm of space with a king-sized bed and large balcony overlooking the swimming pool. Double glazing blocks out the traffic noise from the busy road.

Each room at Baan Pra Nond has its own style of decor with bright Thai silk curtains, elaborate lamps, colourful orchids and hand-painted tiles in bathroom. Some rooms are adorned with wooden antique furniture, from wardrobes, vanities to cabinets, and all are equipped with up-to-date amenities such as safebox, cable TV, air-conditioning, ceiling fan and wireless Internet.

There are also six guestrooms (four small standard-type rooms and two deluxe) in a new two-storey building right next to the old house. Some have direct access to the swimming pool and a private balcony.

Rates range from Bt2,200 to Bt3,850 with breakfast, a reason¬able price for a boutique B&B in what is, after all, an unbeatable location, just 300 metres from BTS Surasak Station and 600 metres from the Chao Phya River's Saphan Taksin pier.

What's more, you'll feel as though you've taken a step back in time, to the Bangkok of half a cen¬tury ago, while not skimping on any of the comforts of modern day living.

AT A GLANCE

High Point: Beautifully decorated and ideal for anyone who wants to experience the atmosphere of old Bangkok.

Low Point: It's a small B&B run by just a few staff. That's why you have a tiny pool, small restaurant and a tiny tropical garden. It can be noisy too.

Pay for it: Bt2,200 to Bt3,850 a night inclusive of continental breakfast.

Find it: Baan Pra Nond 18/1 Charoenrat Road, Yan Nawa, Bangkok 10120

Book it: Call (02)212 2242 or email: contact@baanpranond.com

Browse it: www.BaanPraNond.com