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If you're after breakfast in the southern province of Krabi but find the standard morning fare of khanomjeen (fresh rice noodles) served with a generous ladle of nam ya pak tai, a spicy fish curry sauce, the opening of Takola (pronounced "tahkolah") will come as something of a relief.

Named after the southern ancient port town, Takola restaurant is on Utarakit Road in Krabi's Muang district and a mere 10minute drive from the airport.

After munching a piece of butter cake the size of a matchbox on Thai Airways morning flight from Bangkok, Takola feels like an oasis in the middle of a burning desert.

Inspired by xiao chi, the street food of China, it offers a selection of warm breakfasts served in small bamboo baskets.

You can choose between Chinese buns, shrimp dumplings (ha gua), rice noodle rolls with shrimps or spring rolls or, at Bt15 a basket, opt for the lot though only if you're really hungry.

"Forget those abusive, spicy southern dishes," I write on a paper tissue. "These Chinese dumpling sets are sweet, sour and salty. Perhaps a little bit too oily for the fatsensitive dinner. But they're fantastic for all that."

Munch on a shrimp dumpling, and you traverse a small piece of southern history. The Hokkien Chinese are no strangers to Thailand's South, coming here from Singapore, Malacca and Penang in the early 19th Century to make their fortunes. They brought with them more than 1,000 recipes though sadly many of their signature menus have faded from the South's restaurants and been replaced by mindnumbingly spicy dishes. The exception is bah kut teh, a herbal pork soup.

"Bah kut teh is typical Hokkien dish, and you can have it in restaurants owned by members of the Chinese communities from Phuket to Malaysia to Singapore," says a waiter, as I dig into my dish. "Black pepper, ginseng, cumin, cloves, cinnamon and nine more herbs and spices are steamed with the pork rib for hours."

Enjoy your soup with Chinese steamed buns then finish your breakfast with a cup of Takola's hot tea.

If you go …

Takola is open daily from 6am to 11.30pm. The restaurant also serves authentic southern food. Call (075) 620 872.