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One rarely encounters villa-style resorts anywhere but the most beautiful places in the world, yet in many ways these gorgeous settings are beside the point. For the real appeal of such properties derives not from what lies outside the villas' walls, but from what's within them - the sense of privacy they afford, of refuge, of total luxurious disengagement from not only the outside world, but even from paradise itself.

If Koh Samui is a place to get away from it all, then Bhundhari Spa Resort & Villas, located five minutes north of bustling Chaweng Beach, aims to be a getaway from the getaway. Bhundhari is meant to be a spot for turning completely, blissfully inward.

This is a romantic notion, and it's clear from the moment you step into the outdoor lobby, a darkwood pavilion filled with unexpected pink and red accents, that Bhundhari is a romantic resort.

Indeed, since the Centara Group took over management of the twoyearold property this April, Bhundhari has billed itself as "one of Thailand's first adult-oriented resorts." While the resort doesn't expressly forbid children - I saw some older ones during my recent weekend stay - families won't find the range of kids' activities and accommodations offered elsewhere.

Centara has also begun to redo some of the resort's decor. By the end of the summer, they plan to replace wooden furniture in Bhundhari's excellent restaurant and common areas with sofastyle seating to create a more comfortable, inviting feel. It's a good plan; some of the public spaces feel a little sparse.

Happily, "sparse" is not a word that applies to Bhundhari's 124 wellappointed rooms, 62 of which are attached to the main hotel complex and are surprisingly spacious.

The best bet, however, are the villas. These traditionalstyle small houses come with or without attached private infinity pools go with the pool option if you're looking for the full "never have to leave the room" experience.

I had a non-pool Villa but found it no hardship to make my way to the communal pool - slightly smaller than one might expect given the room count because many guests already have their own pools  when I desired a swim.

My bedroom had a TV, DVD player, ample closet space, and 12 light switches; larger villas also have kitchen and living areas. Service is excellent; rooms are cleaned at least once a day and there's turndown at night.

The room's interior furnishings and art reflect the resort's handsome brown, gold, and red colour scheme. The patio could have done with more seating, as the one built-in bench faced away from the ocean.  All villas come with attached, private outdoor showers - a fun touch.

The beds are very comfortable. Too comfortable, maybe what started one afternoon as a momentary perch on my villa's king-sized model soon turned into an unexpected midday nap.

I woke up two hours later to the sound of thunder. It's easy to love a resort in the glorious sunshine; you can tell a lot about the true character of a place by seeing it rain-drenched and grey. Or, in the case of Bhundhari, by retreating further into the private world of your villa/cocoon and ignoring the rain altogether.

Most of the villas afford stunning views of the ocean and nearby Madlung island. But there's a catch - to provide such vistas to as many rooms as possible, Bhundhari built its villas on the side of a very steep hill.

There's a fleet of six pink golf carts that brings guests up and down the hill by request  (one picked me up at my room within four minutes of my placing a call), but people with mobility issues or young children may want look elsewhere.

Bhunari also has a nice, relaxing spa that offers some of Centara's signature treatments; I can vouch for the aromatherapy massage.

Finally, there's the beach itself. When I was at Bhundhari the beach was closed for expansion but even after the construction it won't be on the same scale as what's found at nearby Chaweng.

Thanks to "the villa effect" I didn't much mind the beach situation - although I did take advantage of the resort's free shuttle service to Chaweng. That famously busy beach was fun for a day, but by the end of the day there I was glad to return to the tranquillity of Bhundhari.

AT A GLANCE

High Point: Villa living in a romantic setting

Low Point: Good views come at a steep price (literally) for those who have trouble with hills.

Pay for it: Hotel rooms start Bt2,700 a night and Villas at Bt 3,275. Multi-night packages can save you more.

Find it: 111/1 Moo 5, Bho Phut, Chaweng Beach, Koh Samui, Surat Thani, 84320

Call It: (077) 601 2368

Browse it: www.CentaraHotelsResorts.com