What a yolk!

In fact, they are exaggerating and while Ratchaburi does offer many real delights to experience, not all of them are culinary. My first stop is at the Ratchaburi National Museum. This well-conserved architectural treasure is now painted pink and it's home to a wealth of ancient artefacts.

The Western-style museum, which once served as the town hall, was built in 1922 during the reign of King Vajiravudh. There are no other visitors when I arrive and after buying my ticket, I walk through the middle courtyard to the first exhibition room.

Most of what's on display here has been excavated in and around the ancient Dvaravati town of Ban Khu Bua in Muang district. Today, Khu Bua is home to a thriving Tai Yuan community, many of whom produce the unique hand-woven textiles that have earned them a reputation both locally and abroad.

The highlight of the exhibition is a stone Avalokites Bodhisattva, one of five discovered in Thailand. It dates back to between the 11th and 13th centuries AD and is part of the archaeological evidence suggesting that Ratchaburi was once an outpost of the Khmer empire.

The museum is best visited slowly, with a gentle stroll through the city's history. Of particular interest me is the section focusing on the ethnic minorities that have made the province their home over the centuries. Apart from the Tai Yuan, Ratchaburi also boasts a large Mon community along the banks of the Mae Klong River in Potharam and Ban Pong districts.

Stepping back into the sunlight, I'm struck at the contrast between the bright yellow clock tower and the pink walls of the museum.

My next stop is Ratchaburi Municipal Court on Vichitsongkram Road, another western style edifice built in 1906 during the reign of the King Rama V and boasting floral perforated arches above wooden windows as well as an elegant gabled roof.

Wat Pra Sri Suriyawong, built in 1871, also has interesting Gothic style architecture and a main hall that's resplendent with Corinthian columns and arches. Two other temples in Bangkok possessed similar Gothic halls, but both have since been demolished.

Chulalongkorn road and rail bridge over the Mae Klong links the market to the military camp and for anyone visiting the town, is a useful reference point. The main train station stands on the right bank and, even though you can't see it, lying on the riverbed below is what's thought to a Japanese military train complete with locomotive, the result of a misadventure during World War II.

Colonel Suchart Chantawong, director of Burana Vidtaya School in Ratchaburi, was so intrigued by the tale of the locomotive that he decided to dive into the murky depths and inspect the Japanese train. He headed down four years ago in the company of a group of divers from the engineering department of Bhanu Rangsi military camp.

"There's definitely a train down there and it's in good condition though it's surrounded by ordnance. Sadly, though, visibility is poor so we are unable to specify the model and whether or not it's Japanese," he says.

Suchart cites lack of expertise and support as hampering further investigation but has conducted his own research by interviewing local people who witnessed the incident during the war.

In 1942, when Japanese soldiers invaded Ratchaburi, the Allies bombed the town as often as four times a week to cut down the Japanese supplies, with the bridge as the target.

After the bridge was bombed, the Japanese sent their prisoners of war and also hired locals to undertake repairs. Local people cut down young wood to use for the foundations and work was finally completed in July 1943. But with such weak foundations, the first train to cross the bridge caused it to collapse, sending the locomotive to a watery grave.

I cross the river and drive 14 kilometres to visit Chet Samien market, where the Fringe Festival 2009 was held earlier this year. During the festival, the 119-year-old market became a weekend stage for local and international artists from 10 countries and even in quieter times, is a pleasant place to while away an afternoon.

An old goldsmith shop, owned by Jume, has been turned into a small museum while a little further up the street, the walls of an art studio-cum-workshop are covered in paintings executed by children. A teacher invites me in and tells me that many kids take a train from Bangkok to Chet Samien every weekend to learn art here.

As dusk falls, the Chet Samien market comes to life and it's not noodles with egg but pickled turnip that's the most prized souvenir. Suan Silp Ban Din is another village venue that's made its name as an art centre. It's run by professional dancer Manop Meejamrat, a son of Chet Samien.

My last stop is at another Gothic Church in Wat Plaeng district, where I pause and reflect on the pink museum and its yellow clock tower, the art community and a Japanese locomotive on the riverbed.