Best-friend flavours

The trick to matching wine to Thai dishes is in enhancing the food's taste without detracting from its spiciness and aroma.

Chef Ian Chalermkittichai and Siam Winery surpassed the challenge as they unveiled the fourth "Thai Wine - Thai Tapas" banquet at the Plaza Athenee Bangkok last week.

Ian, the Thai kitchen wizard who owns the restaurants Kittichai in New York and Murmuri in Barcelona, presented seven terrific tapas-style dishes to match seven premium Monsoon Valley wines.

Stressing that the fundamentals cannot be forgotten when you're preparing a pleasurable eating experience, Ian said that, once that's heeded, you can explore all sorts of techniques and ingredients.

"The source of the ingredients is important," he told the guests. "For example, I prefer a fish sauce or chilli paste produced locally in a small quantities but with a distinct taste."

For every savoury plate that Ian set out, Siam Winery's resident winemaker Kathrin Puff thoughtfully selected a Monsoon Valley wine that wouldn't overwhelm the food but instead harmonise with the spices, herbs and fruity scents.

"The spice of chilli can hurt the taste of the wine as well, so there has to be a balance," Ian said.

Mieng-come Platu, a lime tartlet with tuna tartare, was paired with the Blended White 2008. Pla Goong, a white prawn salad with lemongrass and onion in a fish-sauce dressing, found a mate in the Colombard '08.

Yum Hua-plee Hoy Shell was a banana blossom and heart of palm on a scallop that went nicely with white shiraz '08. The Yum Nua - grilled Wagyu beef with Chinese celery and scallion bird's-eye chilli dressing, was cosy with the Blended Rose '08.

Ped Makarm, slow-roasted duck breast with a tamarind vinaigrette, was served with Blended Red '07, and Gaeng Keawwarn Gae, a pineapple-braised lamb cutlet in green curry with Thai basil and apple eggplant, with the shiraz '07.

Kanhom Dok Mali was a jasmine flower flan that chummed with Chenin Blanc Late Harvest 2009.

Even if some of the food components were common enough, the patrons could revel in the stylish presentation and artful technique.

The water that Ian used to cook the rice, for instance, had been infused with jasmine petals, giving the rice a lovely taste and aroma.

"For coconut cream," Ian revealed, "my secret recipe to put the coconut in the oven first, then chop up the meat, and then squeeze it. It makes my curry exceptional."

When Ian talks about his "High Thai" style, he doesn't mean classic royal Thai cuisine but originality. When served, his dishes have the herbs removed that would normally be left in, such as lemongrass and lime leaves.

The High Thai food that he gives the world is a modern cuisine, elevated from its roots, even though the taste and texture remain original.

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Palate pleasure

Thai Wines - Thai Tapas continues until September 15, daily from 3pm to 2am in the Glaz Bar at the Plaza Athenee.

The seven-tapas meal with wines of your choice costs Bt730, and without wine Bt390.

For reservations, call (02) 650 8800, extension 4324.