Chinese chequers

Guilin: ReedFlute Cave

Our Chinese companions look askance when we tell them that we intend travelling independently through their country, taking in the sights in Guangzhou, the capital of Guangdong province, as well as in Guilin and Yangshuo in Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region, stopping off to explore as the mood takes us.

LiLi, who's Qinzhouborn, is quick to warn us about the dangers.

"The pickpockets in China are very skilful," he says in perfect Thai. "And they don't just snatch things like money, mobile phones, cameras and passports, they carry knives and have a reputation for being violent."

"One Chinese man had his hand cut off while talking on his mobile phone," adds Li Xiao, a Thaispeaking youngster, who's sitting beside me on the plane.

That's no doubt true, but fortunately we make it through bus stations, markets and pedestrian streets in Guangzhou, Guilin and Yangshuo with possessions and limbs intact, though we have plenty of adventures with taxis, hotels and touts and often wished we spoke Chinese.

Arriving at Guangzhou Baiyun international airport, we're immediately accosted by touts offering us taxis into town for 100 yuan (Bt550). Prewarned, we board the shuttle bus for 16 yuan only to be met by more touts at the bus station, this time offering hotels rooms.

There's plenty to see in Guangzhou. Among the mustsees are Yuexiu Park, home to the FiveGoat Statue, the city's symbol, Zhenhai Tower, now the Museum of Art, and the Monument of Dr Sun YatSen. We also take in Liurong Si Temple, the Europeanstyle Shamian Island and the shopping paradise of Shangxia Jiu Lu.

Touts again accost us as we emerge from the airport in Guilin but this time we are wise to the hotel scam and book at our accommodation in advance - a mistake. The hotel, which isn't cheap, is desolate and ghostly, so the next day we check out and find a hip and cheaper place not too far away.

We negotiate a day rate with a taxi to take us to the Reed Flute Cave with its striking stalactites and stone pillars colourfully lit by spotlights, then travel on to Jingjiang Prince's Chengjun Palace, and end with a rafting excursion on the Li River.

Like most visitors to Guangxi, we buy tickets for "DreamLike Lijiang", a show that blends ballet with acrobatics, and for the famed outdoor performance "Impression: Liu Sanjie", which is staged in Yangshuo.

The outdoor folk musical, with mountains and the river as its setting, is the brainchild of renowned director Zhang Yimou and performed by local minority groups.

Another tourist must-do in Yangshuo is to take to two wheels for a leisurely tour of the picturesque landscapes. The fit and brave could probably cycle the full 70km from Guilin. We pay 15 yuan and take the bus.

Bustling West Street, Yangshuo's answer to Bangkok's Khao San Road has lots of bikes to rent from 5 to 20 yuan per day, depending on the condition.

We choose our pedal power and set off on a journey that takes us through farming villages and past simple stone bridges. The locals seem used to seeing strangers and when the biking lane ends abruptly at a canal with no bridge, are quick to offer the services of a raft, albeit at an elevated price. We accept, as to refuse would mean turning back.

The villagers take our cash and reward us with beaming smiles. What's the betting that this in one area where bridges will never be built?

IF YOU GO

Air Asia flies direct from Bangkok to Guangzhou and from Kuala Lumpur to Guilin. Domestic airlines flight to Guilin from Guangzhou. Public and private buses ply the route between Yangshuo and Guilin. The governmentoperated bus is recommended. Tickets are available at the counter in the local bus terminus and cost 15 yuan. The journey takes 90 minutes.

Where to stay

There are many types of hotels available and the prices are mostly reasonable. If opting for a cheaper hotel, ask to inspect the room before checking in. To make a decision based on images in a hotel brochure can lead to severe disappointment.

Getting around

Guangzhou has a subway network, with many routes covering major parts of the city. Taxis are also available and fares are metered. However, during peak hours, cab drivers tend to ask for the price they want rather than use the meter. In a smaller city like Guilin, taxi drivers are friendlier but tend to overcharge tourists, particularly those who cannot speak Chinese. In general, taxi fares are comparable to those of Bangkok's taxis, with a starting price of 7 yuan. The meters in Chinese taxis can print receipts. In Yangshuo, you can get around by rented bicycle or motorbike.