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Sending Paris reeling



Thai silk weaves its spell in the French capital as part of the global renaissance for an ancient craft

Sopaporn Kurz

Special to The Nation

Paris

 Thai silk is renowned worldwide, but last month it spun its magic in the heart of Paris for the first time, at Unesco's headquarters.

Under the theme "Thai Silk: Cultural Heritage", the three-day event wowed an international audience with a thread that ran from the manual extraction of silk from cocoons to the complicated crafts of weaving, to the byproducts of silk production such as tea and cosmetics.

The organiser was Thailand's delegate to Unesco, Orachart Suebsith, who said Thai silk fitted the event's theme of preserving and promoting countries' cultural treasures.

 "Thais' lives have long revolved around silk. I myself grew up surrounded by the stuff, as my grandmother was a silk weaver. Thai silk designs are full of meaning and creativity. The different techniques in weaving, such as brocading and embroidering, are local wisdoms that need be preserved.

 "To be able to showcase this uniquely Thai culture to the international community was an honour."

Minister of Agriculture Theera Wongsamut along with Unesco director general Koichiro Matsuura opened the show on May 18 with a video presentation of Her Majesty the Queen's work over several decades to revive the Thai silk industry. Visitors also got to see traditional dance from the four regions of the country and a fashion parade of contemporary Thai silk designs.

 Along with a stunning heirloom brought from Surin province and demonstrations on weaving intricate patterns, the show also featured a number of Her Majesty's beautifully woven tailored silk outfits for various occasions.

 Another item that caught the spotlight was the peacock logo granted by Her Majesty as a stamp of authenticity for Thai silk. "The logo comes in four different colours to represent the different attributes of raw materials and production process," said Chuanpit Simakachorn, a silk specialist from the Queen Sirikit Institute of Sericulture. "Every item with the peacock logo is guaranteed pure silk, made in Thailand and of high quality."

 The idea of the logo is to create a sense of trust for Thai silk among consumers both at home and abroad as well as eliminating inferior merchandise and fakes, added Chuanpit.

 Reeled out alongside the silk showcase were three seminars -- talks on Jim Thompson's silk empire; on the Geographic Indication status that links the Champagne makers of France with Lamphun's brocade silk (mai yok dok) weavers; and on Surin's renowned Chansoma group of silk weavers whose traditional-style works have graced numerous prestigious occasions on the world stage.

 The different speakers were joined by a conviction that the traditional craft of hand-woven Thai silk should be cherished and nurtured. "These intricate works should not be competing with mass-produced products," said Pornravee Poocharoen of the Lamphun Administrative Organisation. "Instead, we should be focusing on high-end customers who understand and appreciate their uniqueness and beauty."

 The promotion of mai yok dok had improved the life of villagers dramatically, she added. "Local weavers are proud that their works are being used both at the Royal Court and internationally. The increase in demand has also attracted the young generation back to a career they never would have considered a few years ago. They realise that as silk weavers they can make enough money to support their families."

 Michael Ryan, an economist with the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development, said the right marketing strategy is crucial to the success of Thai silk in the global arena. "People have heard of the Thai silk but the promotion must be stronger and louder. It might be difficult now because of the recession, but the possibility is there to find a niche market attracting people who want high-quality products and have spending power."

 He suggested that the message should emphasise the particular qualities of Thai silk.

 "People see silk as silk -- they are not aware of the difference between Thai silk and others. Moreover, many Europeans and Americans don't appreciate silk as an everyday garment," he said, adding that most of westerners bought Thai silk as decorative items rather than clothes.

 "Thailand must show foreign consumers how comfortable silk can be in their own climate."

 Last but not least, he suggested that Thais living abroad could act as messengers.

 "Thai expats could be great ambassadors by using and wearing Thai silk in their daily lives. There should be cooperation between Thai authorities and these people as part of a bigger push to promote silk products."


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