The glint of old gold

Visitors to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, affectionately known as the Met, share a common bond  an obsession with its museum shop and the thousands of affordable reproductions of precious artefacts, ancient and modern, on sale there.

The astonishing range of merchandise adapted from antique masterpieces has made the Met store a model for museums all over the world in their efforts to make art understood and appreciated by the widest audience.

Here in Thailand, the usually quiet Bangkok National Museum, opposite Sanam Luang, is also trying the same tactic. At its new Thai National Museum Shop, you can buy a goldplated ring adapted from earrings made in the sixth century Dvaravati period, or a silver bangle with an engraved design based on the Thai inscription on the stele of King Ramkhamhaeng the Great.

These are among 30 jewellery designs from a collection by Pornpilai Meemalai and four of her fellow graduates of the Department of Jewellery Design at Silpakorn's Decorative Arts Faculty where Pornpilai works as a lecturer.

The shop is a collaborative project between the museum and Prapavadee Sophonpanich, who owns the Met store's Bangkok outlet in Siam Discovery Centre.

In this initial phase, the store is focusing on jewellery, which Prapavadee believes is an attentiongrabber and a practical way to make art part of everyday life.

Pornpilai and her design team have been given freedom to roam the museum to identify the masterpieces that best lend themselves to adaptation. So far, ancient gold ornaments, royal utensils and inscriptions have been their main sources of inspiration.

"Initially, we homed in on the museum's stunning jewellery pieces and other treasures whose forms best reflect our culture and the skill of craftsmen in ancient times. Most of all, our designs must be suited for reproduction as commercial art," says Pornpilai.

The museum's star fruitshaped earrings from the Dvaravati period are among her favourite items.

"They have an organic and freeform design that reflects the influence of nature on accessories created in that period. The earrings have a threedimensional form that looks solid when viewed from afar, but are actually hollow and fashioned from a single sheet of gold that's rolled up and welded," she explains.

Young designer Jakkaphan Keeratinun has adapted the ornament as a set featuring pendant, earrings and ring in 24kgold plate and silver. The black refined Thai silk necklaces for the pendants are handmade by Phonthip Tangviriyamate, who sells her own creations at Phonthip Jewellery in Siam Paragon's Code 10 Zone.

"It's a great experience working on this project. The chance to examine these priceless treasures has inspired me to learn more about art history," says Jakkapan, 27. "I tried my best to make the pieces in the set look as solid and heavy as the original ornament, while keeping the details along the ridges. But I turned over the shape of the star fruit for the ring and gave it an infinity form."

The goldplaqueembossed motif of the pikul (Spanish cherry) flower has also been selected for its beautiful design and meaning. In 14thcentury Ayutthaya, these fragrant flowers were used as offerings in ceremonies to lay the foundations of temples.

Pichai Kaikiew has come up with pikulmotif necklaces as well as dangling and button earrings by overlaying thin silver sheets in a threedimensional form. Linking the chain for the necklace requires painstaking effort, as it is formed from about 400 sheets in different nine sizes.

The traditional motherofpearl inlay on a manuscript cabinet built in Ayutthaya during the 1700s also caught the eye of the designers, who have used it in a choker and ring set.

The space around the motherofpearl lion motif adopted from the cabinet has been has been filled in the traditional way by layering lacquer, tree gum and pounded charcoal obtained from burnt coconut shell known as rak samuk. The shell used was selected for its particularly rich lustre. Rarely used nowadays, this old technique is known by only a few craftsmen.

"Visitors always come to see the inscription stele from the era of King Ramkhamhaeng the Great, which shows that Thai script dates back as far as the Sukhothai era. We've taken some phrases and words for our bangle, ring and cufflinks," says Pornpilai.

The silverandniello bangle formed from a rolledup silver plate is engraved with the stele's famous phrase  "… there are fish in the water, there is rice in the field, Sukhothai is a fertile land"  while the onyx ring and quartz cufflinks on silver rhodium plate are embossed with the word "Ram".

Another interesting piece is the pendantcumlocket, which is based on an Ayutthaya period octagonal box from the royal betel set.

"The royal utensils made by highlyskilled goldsmiths are beautifully crafted," says Jakkaphan. "The gold betel set shows us that it was customary in that period to chew areca nut wrapped in betel leaf. Betel was offered to guests of the royal court as a sign of hospitality."

Visitors to the shop can also choose from a Tab Suang set featuring a 24Kgoldplated necklace and pin based on a gold chest ornament worn in the Ayutthaya period, and an embossed horsemotifed set with pin, hair clip and earrings adapted from the gold pieces depicting the animals of the mystical Anodard pond in the 14th century.

Even if you're not buying, why not take a shortcut through your art studies with a browse at this welcoming new shop?

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At a glance

>> The Thai National Museum Shop at the Bangkok National Museum, Na Phrathat Road, is open Wednesday through Sunday, from 9am to 4pm. Call (02) 221 2536.

>>You can browse online by visiting www.ThaiMuseumShop.com. Part of the proceeds from sales go to support the museum and its educational activities.