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The sheer cliffs of Sai Thong National Park go by odd names, such as "Pha Ham Hod". For non-Thai speakers who really want to know, that's Shrunken Balls Cliff.

That sort of thing won't make the park a man's dream destination, but if you stand at the edge of the precipice in question, the adrenaline thrill is terrific.

Below is a vast, idyllic valley, with houses that look like matchboxes against the curling backdrop of the high range.

"Sai Thong National Park should be more famous, but it's in the shadow of its sister, Pa Hin Ngam National Park," says a ranger, somewhat enviously, as he guides us along a trail.

Both parks in northeast Chaiyaphum province share a reputation for producing endless fields of Siam tulips - the wild curcuma plant known as dok krajiao.

Big sister Pa Hin Ngam has had more promotion, but that helps Sai Thong, because there's no crush of campers, even when the tulips are in bloom.

The park offers one of country's best cliff-walking routes, apparently designed for an easy amble over three kilometres, through four fields of Siam tulips and other wildflowers.

The path from the car park to Ham Hod leads first to a field of tulips whose buds have clearly gone ahead and bloomed earlier without waiting for us.

The second field is a grassy slope layered in white Siam tulips. Cameras in hand, we circle around, looking for the winning shot.

"The best is yet to come," we're cautioned. "Save your batteries!"

The best indeed it is: a huge green meadow sweeping down the valley. Popping up everywhere are thousands upon thousands of pink Siam tulips in big, beautiful bloom.

"Are the flowers edible?" I ask the ranger. It's not a crazy question - the Siam tulip is a member of the ginger family. The young shoots of some species are tender and sweet.

"Well, not this type of tulip," he replies. "If the plant were edible, there'd be nothing left to flower. The young shoots would all end up in someone's kitchen."

XTRA

>> Sai Thong National Park is 70 kilometres from Chaiyaphum.

>> The best time to see the wild blooms is June and July.

>> The park has a few lodges with basic facilities.

>> Bring your own food and cooking gear for an overnight stay.