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The Veranda Resort and Spa provides what city-dwellers really need on the weekend: a modern, stylish place just a stone's throw from the rustic countryside.

It's the best of both worlds, in other words.

Resting in a peaceful valley in Chiang Mai's Hangdong district, the Veranda spreads across the slope of a hill, allowing all 69 rooms stunning views of streams, mountains and (made-for-the-tourists) rice and tea terraces.

It all amounts to a lovely calling card for weary weekenders who want some pampering. There are spa treatments, of course, or you can simply pass the lazy afternoon in an outdoor Jacuzzi with a glass of chilled Chardonnay.

You don't want to leave the resort once you're in.

In its airy lobby, the Veranda greets guests with a bold statement in architecture and interior design. The high-arched canopy and its weaving details seem akin to Beijing's "Bird's Nest" Olympic Stadium.

What's even more impressive is the friendly staff. On a brutally hot afternoon while we're checking in, they offer chilled, scented hand towels and glasses of juicy punch.

Our bags are swiftly taken away and the receptionist leaves the front desk to walk us to our room.

Unlike many design-oriented resorts, the Veranda has nothing minimalist.

My Valley Deluxe room has 43 square metres to spare, plus 15 more on the balcony for the valley view.

Dominated by earth-tone colours, the spacious room looks sleek and modern with trendy contemporary touches.

The floorplan is symmetrically balanced between the restroom and bedroom. Next to the front door are the standing shower, toilet and dressing room.

To pass the humid afternoon in style, you can soak up in the bath, but I don't fancy the strangelooking tub - it's a bit too cubical, with no curves to lean against comfortably.

And, anyway, it's not big enough for two!

 The pair of single beds are separate in the middle of the room. The choice of bathroom or balcony side is crucial since the ceiling air-conditioner won't treat everyone equally.

My travelling companion picks the balcony-side bed and ends up with arctic shivers while I, a metre away, seem to have camped in an Arabian desert.

Although the Valley Deluxe has a vast living area with a daybed and working desk, your favourite place is probably going to be the equally roomy balcony, which has its own inviting furniture.

With panoramic views of the rolling hills, you can soak in the fresh air and the rustic scents of the Chiang Mai countryside.

If you can afford extra, the Jacuzzi Pavilion is an excellent luxury treat, with an even more spacious living area and a whitewater bath big enough for two.

Chose a Jacuzzi Pavilion on the ground floor if you want to be closer to the rice paddy, and the one on the second floor for the stunning valley vista.

The Veranda was designed with Zen in mind - peace and environmental compatibility. Along a small walking trail that crisscrosses the knolls and tea terraces are some lovely gardens.

At night the trail is dramatically illuminated with a string of kerosene lamps, but the resort should swap the kerosene for coconut oil or some other fuel that smells better when it burns.

Food is served all day at the High Room restaurant. I don't make it, but some of my travelling companions return from breakfast raving about the selection and the view.

I'm not about to miss the Rabiang Cha, though, a restaurant with an outdoor terrace dining area, beautiful surroundings beneath the stars, Lanna fusion cuisine and a great choice of fine wines.

The Veranda, all told, is a good choice for a peaceful weekend, but it's a bit remote for anyone hoping to dine out in Chiang Mai.

The same applies to people wanting to do some shopping, although the Baan Thawai handicraft centre isn't far from the resort, and the Night Safari is close too.

AT A GLANCE

High point: A sleek and modern resort in the countryside.

Low point: The Night Bazaar and Nimmanhemin Road nightlife are far away, a 30minute drive from downtown Chiang Mai.

Find it: 192 Moo 2 Banpong Hangdong, Chiang Mai

Pay for it: Until October 31 you can stay two nights for Bt9,500 per person.

Phone it: (053) 365 007 (Chiang Mai office) and (02) 513 3003 (Bangkok office)

Browse it: www.VerandaResortAndSpa.com