Laid back in Luang Prabang

Rustic-looking Lao resort

Tucked away down a small alley off Sisavangvong Road, Luang Prabang's main drag, New Daraphet Villa is certainly in a prime location. From the hotel, it's an easy daytime stroll to Pra That Phu Si and the Royal Palace Museum and after dusk, to Talad Mued, the bustling night market.

The twostorey hotel, built entirely of local timber, is a Laostyle building on a Uneso protected site, and is in accordance with the strict guidelines of an authentic heritagepreserved building.

The checkin counter is in a small room, so we're asked to sit in the openair lobby until the receptionist is free. A cool welcome drink and the warm smiles make the waiting time seem much shorter.

I sip my drink while climbing up the stairs to my room. There's only one key so my friend and I decide that we'll leave it at the counter whenever we are out to ensure that we both have maximum freedom to come and go as we please.

The room is clean and the beds are soft but the only view from the window is the view is a string of new guesthouses. Painters and builders are busily working on the new accommodation so I wave and smile then pull the curtains shut.

There's a chair and a desk, and free wireless Internet but we decide to shower then head out to explore.

The bathroom is fully equipped with basin, shower, bathtub and toilet. There's not too much privacy, as the wall facing the bedroom is made of glass, but I locate a curtain and pull it across.

Unfortunately, the drainage system doesn't work very well and even after a short time in the shower, the bathroom floor is under water. It takes a long time to dissipate too, meaning that we have to wade each time we need to use the toilet.

The next morning, we enjoy the full American Breakfast at the New Daraphet's openair restaurant. But while the food is good and the coffee excellent, there's nothing local on the menu, so we head up the road to hip coffeeshop JoMa Bakery. That's packed with tourists so we stop instead at Morning Glory Cafe opposite Wat Saen for mango crepe and cappuccino. Both take a long to time to reach our table but are worth the wait.

That evening, returning to the room to freshen up, I see that the glass containing my welcome drink is still sitting on the desk, though now it's been joined by a can of air freshener.

I grin, wondering what else the cleaner will forget when she comes back tomorrow.

AT A GLANCE

High point: New Daraphet Villa is a small hotel in the heart of Luang Prabang and is an ideally located for sightseeing in the old town.

Low point: Drainage problems in the bathroom result in a very slippery floor.

Find it: In a small alley between JoMa Bakery and the post office.

Pay for it: In the low season, a Superior room costs US$30 per night and a Deluxe goes for $52. Add $5 more in the high season.

Phone it: (+856 71) 260 680

Browse it: www.MyLaoHome.com, email sales@mylaohome.com.