A narrow view of history

Founded by the powerful Queen Chama Thevi in the ninth century as the centre of the Haripunchai kingdom, Lamphun draws busloads of visitors with its mix of elegant wats and rustic farmland. But when night falls, most stream out of this small northern province and head to Chiang Mai, 30 kilometres away, for the trendy hostelries and buzzing nightlife.

The Lamphun Will Hotel wants to give them something to stay for.

Urban chic is the theme the owners had in mind when they converted the fivestorey building into an intimate boutique hotel with 79 guestrooms. Stylish yet affordable, it's a haven of modern design and comfort in this centuries-old town - the own¬ers even claim it's the first of its kind in Lamphun province.

Located opposite Wat Chama Thevi (where the queen's ashes are said to lie) on Chama Thevi Road, the Lamphun Will is true to its name, trying hard to impress everyone. While waiting to be checked in, we're shown to a lounge area of plush leather seats and sofas and served chilled drinks.

 But next stop is our room where it doesn't take long to discover that the hotel has been less generous with space.

"If I was any chubbier, I'd need to turn sideways to get through that bathroom door," says my travel-mate, exaggerating a little to make his point.

But I can't argue, the bathroom's small all right. Turn around too suddenly while showering in this cubicle and you could knock yourself out (okay, now I'm exaggerating a bit).

The rest of the decor is nothing to write home about, with near-featureless pastel walls broken up by watercolours of Lamphun's archaeological landmarks - Wat Chama Thevi and the Haripunchai Pagoda in our room.

The two simple beds are firmly anchored to the floor, leaving you a few feet from your roommate, whether you want to be or not. There's no super-soft linen to help you drift off, but the stiff sheets are comfortable and clean.

Crammed into the space at the foot of the beds is a low armchair and small desk where guests can unfold a laptop and read their mail. Wireless Internet is piped into every room along with cable TV. Some guests get lucky with a view of Chama Thevi's ancient temple architecture. Fortune decided not to smile on me - I got a balcony overlooking a rustic household complete with soundtrack arranged by dogs, chickens and other, unidentified livestock.

One thing you won't get is that "atmosphere" typical of a provincial hotel - the whiff of air freshener mingled with the odour of dirty rug. Guests can breathe easy in the knowledge that you won't suffer slow suffocation by this peculiarly overpowering combination.

The Lamphun Will serves up its breakfasts at the N & N restaurant. I check out the regulation ham-and-eggs American breakfast pasted onto my friend's plate and immediately decide to go for the other option, a bowl of hot rice porridge with seafood. Bad move.

Forget the hotel breakfast. The noodle shop next to the hotel will whip you up a tasty bowl of "kao lao" soup for a few baht.

While it's not perfect, the bottom line is that the Lamphun Will is worth the money. For about Bt1,000 a night, you get a hotel with character plus the town's landmarks just five minutes away.

AT A GLANCE

High point: The Lamphun Will is a small hotel in a small town. Pennypinchers with a taste for design and character will love the place. Good for a peaceful sightseeing break in Queen Chama Thevi's ancient capital.

Low point: The rooms are small - you have to get out onto the balcony for space and fresh air.

Find it: Opposite Chama Thevi temple, on Chama Thevi Road.

Pay for it: Bt1,200 per night for a Deluxe room. You may be able to bargain over the phone.

Phone it: (053) 534 865

Browse it: www.LamphunWillHotel.com