Prague in quarters

A statue of St John Nepomuk, one of the many statues that line Charles Bridge. Rubbing the brass relief at its base is believed to bring good luck.

I couldn't have chosen a more mesmerising city in Eastern Europe for a winter holiday than Prague.

It was like stumbling on a chest of hidden treasures.

Most travel websites and guidebooks mention Prague as one of the most diverse cities in Eastern and Central Europe and a place known for its beauty, history, nightlife and culture. My three-day visit to the Czech Republic's capital backed that up and more Prague has so many corners to explore that such a short trip couldn't possibly do justice to its many splendours.

The castles, gold-tipped towers, bridges, synagogues, church spires and countless well-preserved monuments of Prague straddle the Czech Republic's longest river, the Vltava, which winds through the heart of the city and is spanned by at least twenty bridges. A day cruise on the Vlatva is one of the best ways to see the city's sights.

A cold and unwelcoming city in the days of communist rule, Prague has undergone a complete transformation since the peaceful "Velvet Revolution" of 1989. Now modern and vibrant, it boasts hundreds of international and fast-food restaurants; shopping malls and boutiques stuffed with designer goodies; streets lined with cafes; and casinos and nightclubs packed with locals and tourists. Historical buildings have been taken over by stylish hotels and restaurants to give visitors a deeper flavour of Prague's magnificent past.

That historical legacy is also present in the many concert halls, galleries, cinemas and annual cultural events that give the city its longstanding reputation as one of Europe's cultural powerhouses.

Despite the bitingcold temperatures for this writer's mid-January visit, the sights were brimming with holidaymakers, attesting to the fact that Prague is now one of Europe's  and the world's  most popular tourist destinations.

The city centre is divided into four areas and spans both banks of the Vltava River. On one side lies the Lesser Quarter (Mala Strana) which leads up to Prague Castle while on the other are the Old Town (Stare Mesto), the Jewish Quarter (Josefov) and the New Town (Nove Mesto).

A tourist hotspot, Prague Castle is the largest castle in the world, with three courtyards and a number of magnificent buildings covering more than seven hectares.

Founded in AD870, the castle has survived numerous fires and invasions over the centuries and is now the seat of office for the current president of the Czech Republic. It sits on a hill, offering a panoramic view of Prague as well as a mirror image of the city reflected from the surface of the Vltava River.

The ornate dome and tower of the Church of St Nicholas dominate the Baroque architecture of the Lesser Quarter, an area nestled on the slopes below Prague Castle. At its feet lies the Lesser Quarter's square, a lively area of cafes, boutiques and shops selling Bohemian crystal, ceramics, puppets and souvenirs.

A few steps away is the Bridge Tower which leads to the Charles Bridge, a 14thcentury stone span over the Vltava river linking the two sides of Prague. Lined with statues and lamps, this walkway is probably one of the most visited and photographed bridges in the world. During the day it's thronged with casual strollers, street musicians, artists and painters.

The best time of the day to visit the bridge is at sunset for the breathtaking view of Prague Castle lit up against the evening skyline.

On the other side of the bridge lies the Old Town and the Jewish Quarter.

The openair cafes set up on the cobble-stoned streets of the Old Town Square draw tourists in their droves. They spill on to nearby Karlova Street too, for its souvenir shops and pubs, or stand beneath the Town Hall's clock tower, waiting patiently for the mechanical figures to pop out and strike the hour, chased by the Grim Reaper.

North of the Old Town Square along Pariszka street is Josefov, the Jewish Quarter, named after Emperor Josef II, who helped improve living conditions in the Jewish ghettos in the mid19th century. Built in 1270, the OldNew Synagogue here is the oldest synagogue in Europe and one of the earliest Gothic buildings in Prague. Close by is the Old Jewish Cemetery, once the only burial ground consecrated for Jews. Due to the lack of space, coffins were piled up on top of each other often 12-layers deep!

Things get just as crammed - though a little more lively - in the New Town. The main attraction of this pulsating area is Wenceslas Square, more like a wide boulevard lined with historical buildings that now house hotels, restaurants, shops, theatres and cafes.

One New Town building not to be missed is the Dancing House, nicknamed "Fred and Ginger" after Hollywood's famous pair. A clever blend of modern architecture and the historical buildings it cuddles up to, the Dancing house is a mind-bending sight in this city of perfect Baroque symmetry.

Prague is best explored on foot with the help of its efficient public transport system buses, subway trains and trams. Hotels of all standards are plentiful and easily booked via the Internet.

Czech cuisine is meaty and rich - roast beef or pork with dumplings and cabbage is a must-try but visitors will find the same range of international foods that's available in any large European city. If you make a winter trip, make sure to glug down some hot, sweet Svarak, the mulled wine that locals use as protection against the cold.

If you go…

There are no direct flights from Bangkok to Prague, which means Thai visitors should head for a major European city, where they can get a train or flight to the Czech Republic. All Thais need a visa to visit the Czech Republic. Take care of your Czech Crowns - Prague's trains and crowded tourist sights are favourite haunts of pickpockets. A Crown is worth about 1.7 baht.