
Aim high for the water festival
It's a party time again. From Chiang Mai to Pattaya to Khon Kaen, millions of us are taking to the streets (and temples, actually) to celebrate Songkran - the country's most cherished festival, marking the lunar New Year.
After months laid low by political and economic worries the Kingdom is desperate for a big dose of fun. Whether you want a gentle traditional sprinkling, or a bucketful of icy water over your head, the following venues have all you need for a good time. So put politics and the recession on hold, and splash out!
BANGKOK
To ring in the Thai New Year, the City of Angels flows with every kind of fun, from polite waterpouring ceremonies to wild street parties where no one stays dry in the wars of the wet stuff.
Sanam Luang, the public space next to the Grand Palace, hosts the sober ceremonial centrepiece. (Let's hope the park isn't "kidnapped" by the redshirts). On April 13 Songkran Day 182 monks led by 10 senior clergymen will accept offerings at Sanam Luang on their morning alms collection.
From April 12 to 15, the park plays host to the Singha Buddha, giving visitors the chance to pour water over one of Bangkok's most sacred Buddha images, which usually resides in the National Museum.
Nine grand temples around Sanam Luang, among them Wat Pho, Wat Phra Kaew (the Temple of Emerald Buddha) and Wat Bowonniwet, will be holding Songkran fairs from April 13 to 15. There, the campaign to reclaim traditional Songkran means visitors can expect to be asked politely before being lightly sprinkled with water.
No such luck elsewhere - for a really wetandwild Songkran scene, walk east from Sanam Luang for 10 minutes to get to the Khao San Road. Armed with pump-action water canons and buckets of coloured powder, thousands of funlovers will be soaking everything that moves from today through Wednesday.
CHIANG MAI
Chiang Mai is often considered the most exciting place to celebrate Songkran. The New Year begins in the temples with a gentle sprinkling of water and a light dusting on the cheeks with fragrant paste. Cultural shows and food festivals add a special colour and flavour to Lanna celebrations.
Things get wilder in the afternoon when throngs of revellers head out to the city moats. The festival culminates at night with lively dancing at Thapae Gate.
AYUTTHAYA
Ayutthaya, Siam's old capital and a World Heritage Site, celebrates with a parade and great fanfare from Monday through Wednesday. Best places to hang out are Wiharn Phra Mongkhon Bophit, the ruins of the historical park, and in and around the island. A grand procession of Buddhas, Songkran beauty queens and elephants takes place on April 13 on the city's main road.
SAMUT PRAKAN
The old Mon neighbourhood of Phra Pradaeng keeps the best for last, celebrating Songkran in a threeday event that kicks off on April 17. The centrepiece is at Wat Ketchedtharam, a Mon temple in Phra Pradaeng district, meritmaking and entertainments last from dawn till late at night.
Expect traditional Mon games like sabaa, great food and folk arts.
CHON BURI
The celebrations take place at various venues this weekend and next, with Bang Saen and Pattaya serving up the most fun over the weekend of April 18.
The Pattaya beach road will be closed to pave the way for the Buddha procession. Young people go gunning for fun armed with double-barrel water cannons and buckets, ensuring the beach town gets totally soaked. Among the more courageous "roadside warriors" are the battalion of transvestites who turn up in super-tight T-shirts clamouring for more water.
Bang Saen, on other hand, tends to be more family-oriented, with rituals, games and a sandcastle competition on the beach.
KHON KAEN
Isaan folk mark the Thai New Year with the Dok Khun Siang Khaen Festival, which kicked off last week and ends on Wednesday. Catch the procession of floral floats decorated with yellow dok khun (Golden Shower tree flowers) as it winds through the streets on Monday, and enjoy Isaan food, contests, cultural performances and folk music. For the best water fights, head to Si Chan Road.