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Tsui Sing Lau is Hong Kong's only surviving ancient pagoda - it was declared a monument back in 2001 - and it marks the start of the historical route to Ping Shan walled village, built by the Tang clan, one of New Territories' five great clans, about 700 years ago. They moved here in the 12th century and set up their system of local government, constructing schools and temples for their community.

For all their sophistication and business savvy, the people of Hong Kong have a yearning to learn about their past. The ancient pagoda is a part of the two restored heritage trails opened more than a decade ago by the Hong Kong Antiquities Advisory Board, Antiquities and Monuments Office and the Architectural Services Department. Ping Shan is the first trail and lies to the southwest of the New Territories while the second, Lung Yeuk Tau (Mountain of the Leaping Dragon), is to the northeast, near Fanling.

No matter which of the two heritage trails you choose to explore on your next trip to Hong Kong, you'll come back to the Tang clan, believed to be the descendants of the eldest son of the princess of the Southern Song dynasty (11271279). The princess, a daughter of Emperor Gaozong of Song, took refuge in the south, and married Tang WaiKap of Kam Tin. The eldest son of the royal couple moved to Lung Yeuk Tau at the end of the Yuan dynasty and as the clan prospered, they branched out to the neighbouring areas, establishing five walled villages. Some of these are well preserved and can still be seen throughout Ping Shan and Lung Yeuk Tau.

In ancient times, government officers were paid in slabs of bricks. The more the bricks they amassed, the wealthier they became - as witnessed by the walled villages built by the Tangs and their vast farm land in the New Territories area. Visitors will find the restored remains of walled villages at Lo Wai on the Lung Yeuk Tau trail and at Sheung Cheung Wai in the Ping Shan trail. Some oldtime residents still live there and say they appreci¬ate the privacy and silence afforded by the 1.5metre thick walls.

Temples also play key roles in these ancient communities. In a remote location off the Ping Shin trail is a one-storey Yeung Hau Temple, named after the god of loyalty and bravery and home to Kam Fa, the patron saint of expectant mothers, and To Tei, the Earth God. There's another Yeung Hau Temple on Cheung Chau Island, 10-km southwest of Hong Kong.

In Lo Wai on the Lung Yeuk Tau trail, you'll find a Tin Hua Temple. Tin Hua is the Goddess of the Sky and Queen of Heaven and she is much revered among Hong Kong residents because of her proximity to the sea, hence the large number of Tin Hua temples around the city. The Tin Hua temple in Lung Yeuk Tau is ancient, with one of the two bells on the floor of the left chamber cast in 1695 and the other in 1700.

Taking time to discover these historical trails offers a very different perspective of Hong Kong from the usual bustling city scene and is a great experience for those not familiar with the New Territories.

The journey there is painless too thanks to the comprehensive light rail network that makes both trails easily accessible from the town centre.

If you go …

Both Ping Shan and Lung Yeuk Tau Historical Trails can be easily reached via Hong Kong's extensive rail network. For more information, visit www.AMO.gov.hk