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Rooted close to Lijiang's Old Town but standing just beyond its forest of tourists is the Banyan Tree Lijiang, a little haven of luxury in the midst of Naxi's sprawling rustic farmland.

We arrived at Banyan Tree Lijiang last winter from Kunming, capital of China's Yunnan province, on our way further north to the town the Chinese have christened ShangriLa. We were following a trail trodden by hundreds of thousands of tourists every year, who flock to stroll the charming courtyards and marketplaces of Lijiang's Old Town, a Unesco World Heritage Site at the feet of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.

A sort of miniature version of the Old Town, the Banyan Tree is arranged around a series of courtyards that branch off to a shop, lounge, bar and restaurants.

Follow the cobbled pathway to the north wing, and you'll find a wooden gate behind which lies an elegant courtyard. Just beyond it, in grounds enclosed by a brick wall, are 55 private, singlestorey villas in elegant traditional Naxi designs.

Whatever culture its planted in - Phuket, the Maldives or Indonesia - the seed idea of the Banyan Tree brand is luxury on the road. Here, in the heart of Naxi, my entrylevel Garden Villa is nestled in a lush, private garden that's visible through the main room's sliding glass door. From the outside everything is traditional Naxi architecture: terracotta roofs, brick walls and more. Inside, contemporary Chinese fabrics, lamps and wood furniture add chic comfort to the place.

A kingsize bed occupies the middle of the room, and to the left there's a suitably palatial bath with dressing area. To the right is a small lounge with a settee built into the wall. Lay your head on a pillow, and the sliding glass door frames a panoramic view of towering Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. From the bed, the snowcapped peaks and crescent moon look close enough to touch.

"This is supposed to be a perfect place for honeymooners," sighed my travel mate, a cameraman who was sharing the villa with me.

He was right, so it was a hell of a shame that we'd wound up here together. I dragged a blanket to the couch in the living room - there's nothing scarier than the being awakened in the night by thunderous snoring inches from your ear.

Guests bite into Banyan Tree Lijiang at Bai Yun, an Imperial Chineseinspired restaurant. We sampled a "spinning table" dinner one evening, and tucked into a very tasty variety of Chinese and Tibetan dishes. Guests hungry for European and Asia fusion food can head to the Ming Yue restaurant.

Here's a tip: if the weather isn't too cold, take breakfast at your villa. Waking up in the morning, the first thing you see is the fresh green of the courtyard garden, before your eyes lift to the snowcapped peaks of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain dazzling in the morning sun. Suddenly, a cup of tea or coffee becomes the best breakfast of the year. Invilla afternoon tea is one thing that comes included with a Deluxe Garden Villa, along with a discount for spa treatment.

Hunkering south of the mountain and north of Lijiang Old Town, the resort offers a great base for a mix of cultured travel and smalltime exploration. After following the crowds into the old town and enjoying the game of bargaining, you can slip back to your peaceful, private villa, sip Yunnan's finest tea and dream of conquering the white peaks of the Dragon.

AT A GLANCE

High Point: A lovely resort with a view to die for

Low Point: Luxury comes at a cost. The price of a night in Banyan Tree Lijiang could finance a month's trip around northern Yunnan.

Find It: Five kilometres from Lijiang Old Town on Yuerong Road, northern Yunnan

Pay for it: Garden Villa starts at

Phone it: +868885331111

Browse It: www.BanyanTree.com or email lijiang@banyantree.com.