The magic of Alishan

The Alishan Forest Railway

I hired my bike hasslefree from Chiayi train station. A Taiwanese or international driver's license is a must for the bigger bikes up to 125cc and the cost is about 400 Taiwan New Dollars (Bt420) a day, insurance included.

The Alishan National Scenic Area starts at the exit of the town. Climbing the curvy road out of the packed city, we're soon peering over a valley of rice fields and betelnut plantations mixed with subtropical forest.

Slim palm trees line the mountainside till we reach the tea plantations. There, hundreds of women harvest the leaves that make Alishan famous for its tea. The scent of natural drying oolong tea fills the warm air as we pass the scattered farms.

Above the tea plantations, we find bamboo forests blowing in the wind, then Fencihu, a tiny village turned strategic stop for the Alishan train 1400 metres above sea level.

The little station was used for maintenance, which attracted many people from the valley to relocate to this site. The 800 inhabitants, mostly Hakka and Han Chinese, moved here to work in the train station. On weekdays, this is a sleepy village centred on Old Street, a 7Eleven and a couple of restaurants and souvenir shops. But on weekends, it buzzes with activity and visitors.

The local farmers bring bamboo shoots and mountain cabbage to sell at the roadside, and the small alleys are crowded with a street market offering everything from coffeeflavoured mantou to barbecued pork to fine tealeaves from nearby farms.

After dinner, we set out in search of Fencihu's secret. Following the rail tracks into the darkness for 10 minutes, we begin to see little sparks here and there. Each night adventurous visitors dive into the deep blackness of Alishan forests, hoping to find a glittering cloud of hundreds of fireflies.

The flickering lights from the small insects create a unique atmosphere, making the already magnificent mountain range appear even more magical.

The main attraction of Fencihu, though, is its hiking paths. Early risers can hike up to Datongshan (1976 metres) to see perhaps Alishan's most beautiful sunrise. Some hotels will arrange a jeep ride to the starting point of the track, from where it's an hour's hike to the top. From the village, the hike is about four hours.

Those wanting to get off the beaten track can take some interesting hikes around the Tiger Spot Cliffs and the Bat Shrine. Moves are under way to improve the path signs and build wooden steps in the steepest parts to make the walk more comfortable. Another option is a visit to Laiji village. This town of mountain Zhou folk is not far from Fencihu by a lonely road that cuts through beautiful bamboo forests to a flat valley. Guided forest hikes with an overnight stay can be organised here.

Back on the road, we cross Highway 169 and discover the village of Taihe where the plum tree blossom takes our breath away.

Surrounded by the sights and smells of Alishan, we realise that it's time to turn back - even though we haven't reached the peak. We take Road 159, not as comfortable as Highway 18 but more charming. Leaving behind the last tiny villages hanging from the slopes and the scent of tea floating on the lazy evening breeze, we reach the restaurantpacked gateway to Chiayi City.

If you go …

VISA: Taiwan Consulate Office is in Empire Tower, Sathorn Road, Bangkok. Call

(02) 670 0200.

MONEY: Bt100 is equivalent to 97 Taiwan New Dollars.

GETTING THERE: China Airline and EVA Airways operate nonstop flights between Bangkok and Taipei.

GETTING AROUND: Alishan is in southern Taiwan. Chiayi City, the gateway to Alishan, is about 90 minutes on the train from Taipei. The famous Alishan Forest Railway rolls through the scenic landscape from Chiayi to Alishan.

SLEEPING: Most hotels and guesthouses are around Alishan Railway station and a convenient base for dining and shopping. Lodges with scenic views start at TND$5,000 per night. Reserve your accommodation ahead to avoid getting hassled by touts when you get off the train.

ON INTERNET: www.Taiwan.net.tw.